Cooling system overhaul, need radiator

[tevake]

I have some extensive travel plans for the summer, am wanting to get the engine temps down into a comfort zone. Plus I don't want to have to listen to the fan engaged all the time.
Got the radiator out yesterday, and want to replace it. So far the shops I've have checked with can not find a new replacement and suggest recoring the old one.
Does anyone have a source for a new radiator for the p 30 chassis.
The guy that is helping me on this job feels the tanks of the rad are thin and may be degraded. They would be staying with a recore so this does cause me some concern.

Any leads for a new radiator would be great, Thanks

Cheers Richard

[tevake]

The local parts places can find one with plastic tanks and aluminum core.
I really want an all metal one.
It's is a four core cross flow radiator.

[mayco]

Ive seen quite a few folks searching for one, never heard any results. Wonder if it would be worth looking at some SOB salvage on the p30 chassis. Kind of a PITA I realize. But if youre back in AZ there might be a few yards to check with. Thinkn out loud here Richard. Aloha, Mike

[martin300662]

Mill Supply list quite a few for the P30 so worth checking.

(https://www.millsupply.com/search.ph...cs=1&submit=Go)

I got mine re-cored locally which was a much better deal, and they did something (3-row?) to improve efficiency.

[dadstoy]

Have it recored.


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[Waipio Rim]

This isn't what you asked for, but we had ours cored last year too. The shop that did the work said that there wasn't much crud inside of it, so apparently it had been done before. They didn't comment on wall thickness.

[tevake]

Thanks to all for the replies.
News back from the shop where I dropped the rad. Yesterday is that the core could be rodded but both tanks would have to come off and reattached to correct corrosion at the joints. So that would run over $200. His supplier has a high efficiency core that will cool around 25% better than original. That will cost $550 all done. So that is the way I'm going.

We installed a new water pump, hi flow 180 degree thermostat. Pluss we are find ing all sorts of little issues that we can get at now to sort out. Issues like hydrolic hose rubbing on the bottom pulley, bare wiresetc.

Rad should ready on tue. Next week. I'll check in with results once back together.
We also found that the holly fuel injection was way out of tune. Surprising that it ran as well as it did in that state. It may now have the power to tow my small sports car up hills with out too much strain.

I am really looking forward toThis upcoming check out ride.

Cheers Richard

[Kota]

Looks like you have a plan! I've used these on some off road projects. If you need a high performance solution and can do a little fabrication work they aren't too outrageous in price and have a lot of options.

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/Welcome.htm

[Grosspoluter]

I was going to replace the radiator in my 345 with an allumminum one, I've done this with a older muscle car and my jeep with great results.
But first I flushed the cooling system added a 160* thermostat refilled the cooling system with water and a product called water wetter.
The 454 V8 that used to run at 210 - 230 when it was 60* degrees outside now runs at 180 - 210 when its 80* outside!
The down side to this is that I HAVE TO remember there's no antifreeze in it when fall rolls around

[TomKirk]

Your P-30 chassis was build by General Motors Around 2000, Workhouse bought the entire P-series truck line from GM.

1) A new radiator from Workhorse will probably have an aluminum core and plastic tanks. In this day and age, all replacement radiators are aluminum and plastic. As a consequence, they can't be repaired.

2) Plan-B = Find an old-fashioned radiator shop. They're pretty scarce. But back in the day they could build pretty much anything and still use your old tanks. It's "tank configuration" that makes your radiator fit properly.

The place to find a radiator shop would be in an industrial area where heavy duty trucks are repaired. Many HD trucks still use copper radiators. In Seattle, that would be Performance Radiator.

Tom

[tevake]

Man this site is frustrating, for trying to get pics loaded. Can't tell you how many times I've lost my text while trying to load a pic. Never have found the magic paper clip

At any rate, for the third time. Yes Tom I was able to find a family run radiator shop that has been at it for 35 years. They are sourcing a high efficiency core that should be an upgrade with around 25% better cooling.

Kota's suggestion of a custom built one is an excellent choice, just requires more cash and time to get done.

Here is a pic of the job site. This project is much better to do while living aboard than the toilet base rebuild and new toilet install of last week.
But it does feel good to be moving thru the list.

[tevake]

The pic. Well I'm done , over a half an hour for this.

[mayco]

Posting a pic is a LOT easier using their app

[bkahler]

How's this......



Definitely easier to pull the radiator on the Classic series than on an Argosy. On the Argosy you have to pull the whole lower front section off which entails a lot of rivet drilling

Brad

[tevake]

Yes this engine compartment did open nicely.
I thought that I had read here that the radiator could be dropped out the bottom.
But on the 345 it sits on top of the frame rails so no way to go out the bottom!

Getting the front open gives access to areas not easily seen otherwise. Old Heater hoses, rat eaten wires , One hydraulic line. Was routed so close to the lower engine pulley that it was rubbing there and on the outside of the frame the tire was rubbing on the same hose at full lock. Luckily it had a cover over the hose, which protected the line. But worth a look for you 345ers .

I guess I'll try the app, thanks for the suggestion.

[dadstoy]

My '82 280 has the vertical radiator and it was dropped out the bottom when I had it re-cored a couple years back. That made it nice since very little needed to be removed to drop it out!

Originally Posted by tevake

Yes this engine compartment did open nicely.
I thought that I had read here that the radiator could be dropped out the bottom.
But on the 345 it sits on top of the frame rails so no way to go out the bottom!

Getting the front open gives access to areas not easily seen otherwise. Old Heater hoses, rat eaten wires , One hydraulic line. Was routed so close to the lower engine pulley that it was rubbing there and on the outside of the frame the tire was rubbing on the same hose at full lock. Luckily it had a cover over the hose, which protected the line. But worth a look for you 345ers .

I guess I'll try the app, thanks for the suggestion.

[bkahler]

I believe the change year from the vertical to the horizontal radiators is somewhere around 82/83. There is a big difference in weight when comparing the vertical radiators to the horizontal radiators. The vertical one in my Argosy is HEAVY and the horizontal one that I removed from the 1986 345 wasn't all that heavy. The 1984 310 that we had came with the horizontal radiator and it never had cooling problems.

I have no idea which radiator is better for cooling.

[tevake]

Good post Bkahler, useful details for those thinking of dealing with their cooling gear in the future!