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Old 06-12-2017, 07:39 AM   #1
4 Rivet Member
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Londonderry , New Hampshire
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 252
Confused about lug nuts

I need to buy a lug wrench for my 345. I measured the lug nuts and get
1.04 inches and 26.5 MM. My 1 inch socket wrench will not fit. A 1-1/16 inch will fit but is sloppy. A 27 MM socket fits better. The thread dimension is 18 TPI so it is not metric.

What is the correct wrench size? More generally what is the best lug
wrench for these type of wheels. I have never owned a vehicle which
such large wheels so this is all new to me.

Thanks for any help,
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Old 06-12-2017, 09:58 AM   #2
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2008 19' Bambi
Carlsbad , California
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A 1 1/16" may be the best. Use a 6 point impact if it will fit into the wheel counter bores. 27m will work too, but measures a hair larger.
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Old 06-13-2017, 06:21 PM   #3
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Londonderry , New Hampshire
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 252
What do people think about torque multipliers like this:

My lug nuts are stamped "torque to 150 ft/lbs.
That is a lot for an ordinary lug wrench.

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Old 06-13-2017, 07:36 PM   #4
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2008 19' Bambi
Carlsbad , California
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That should crack them loose, but you would get a wrong reading using a torque wrench. If they operate on a known ratio you could calculate a correction torque. You would need to carry a 1" drive breaker bar and a torque wrench unless you were "guessing".
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Old 06-13-2017, 08:56 PM   #5
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Hillsburgh , Ontario
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1 1/16" is the correct size and torque them to 150 ft/lbs minimum. My garage measured the stud at 5/8" and suggests 175ft/lbs as being the correct torque for the stud.

This site suggests 180 ft/lbs for the heavy duty 5/8" 10 bolt

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Old 06-14-2017, 01:06 PM   #6
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I have a GMC van with 1/2" wheel bolts. I am about to do battle with the tire installer who torqued the nuts to 140 foot pounds. The issue I really have is that they put the nuts on with an air impact driver. I don't know what their impact drivers are rated for but some 1/2" drive impact drivers go as high as 1100 foot pounds. Putting a torque wrench on a nut or bolt that is already driven to an excessive torque will tell you nothing. The torque wrench will only indicate the amount of torque being applied. If the nut or bolt is already at 200 foot pound for example the torque wrench will never show that.

The only proper way to put the wheel nuts on is by hand. A slow process but replacing over stressed, broken wheel bolts takes a lot longer.

Using a four way wrench will speed up the nut installation without over torquing the nuts or bolts. Simply put the wrench on the nut and give it a spin, or maybe two. Nut on! Then tighten the nuts with a torque wrench.

The indicated torque for wheel nuts and bolts is pretty much the same as for nuts and bolts in any other application. It is the strength of the nut/bolt assembly that determines the correct torque along with the required clamping force to hold the wheel. Wheel fasteners are generally Grade 8 or the metric equivalent.

Don't let tire installers use an impact driver to put our wheels on.
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Old 06-14-2017, 02:58 PM   #7
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2014 25' FB Flying Cloud
Fitchburg , Wisconsin
Join Date: Jul 2014
Posts: 184
I bought a Klutch torque multiplier from Northern Tool:

to torque my Kurt hitch ball to the recommended 450 ft. lb. (I don't trust mechanics with air impact drivers either.) It worked well enough but being able to put the draw bar in the receiver provided a pretty good "vice" to get everything into working position fairly easily. Keeping it on a lug nut might require three or four hands.

The Klutch ratio is 3 to 1 so calculating the apparent needed input torque is easy, but the instructions state: "Due to frictional losses in the gear train, a torque loss factor of 10% to 20% should be anticipated." So you can get a lot of torque out of it but accuracy is not a strong point.

Northern also sells a 3/4" drive 40" breaker bar that may be all you would ever need.
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