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Old 02-21-2018, 12:27 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by cole3444 View Post
Thanks Isuzusweet, on the info about the 60's corvette vacuum motor working on our step. Checked my step today and the button on the door frame will actuate the step if I push it all the way in with a screw driver handle, their is a small piece of aluminum screwed to the door that pushes against the switch but not far enough to actuate does not look factory. Step seems to be ok except for the switch, can they still be bought or will I have to retro fit one. Might look for a vacuum motor also along with a switch and check all wires for damage. Thanks again. Jim
The vacuum actuator is a 68 to 82 Corvette headlight actuator. The switch is a Cole Hersee 9269BX. The switch comes as a normally open or normally closed. I'm not sure if the number is NO or NC but that should be easy once you identify which one you need. Airstream used both so you will have to check your switch. Last one I bought cost $3.95 and $8.95 to ship so I bought 2.

My coach also has the striker plate. I have added shims to keep the switch functioning until it just gives up. Wear and sloppiness in the door hinges adds to the problem.
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Old 02-27-2018, 02:45 PM   #42
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I got the steps working by adding a shim to the door to make better contact with the switch. I have two more questions, have any of you repaired cracks in your overhead ABS ?? cabinets, I have some with cracks and the PO had put clear tape on them. Now the one that is driving me nuts, where on earth is the inverter mounted on the 310 I have searched and found a ABS box cover under the microwave cabinet by the frig next to my Wizard battery tender but no wires coming out, only place I have not checked is under the mattress where the PO fastened the plywood down to protect from a tornado. I would appreciate any help before I lose what sanity I have.
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Old 02-27-2018, 03:56 PM   #43
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ithink I have a piece of that beltline laying around. Sold my 280 in 2005 but still have some parts stored I ewill check and pm you.
also fixng the cracked cabinets, I used tan adhesive caulk after trying unnsucessfully to plastic weld. Its a trial and error gig.
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Old 02-27-2018, 04:07 PM   #44
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I got the steps working by adding a shim to the door to make better contact with the switch. I have two more questions, have any of you repaired cracks in your overhead ABS ?? cabinets, I have some with cracks and the PO had put clear tape on them. Now the one that is driving me nuts, where on earth is the inverter mounted on the 310 I have searched and found a ABS box cover under the microwave cabinet by the frig next to my Wizard battery tender but no wires coming out, only place I have not checked is under the mattress where the PO fastened the plywood down to protect from a tornado. I would appreciate any help before I lose what sanity I have.
Are you looking for an "INverter" or "CONverter"? The converter on mine was/is located behind the 12v fuse panel, under the cabinet that held the freezer, next to the refridgerator. But mine is an '82, might be different for the '83. Drove me a bit crazy also trying to find it. I finally just followed the BUZZZZZZZZZ
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Old 02-27-2018, 04:14 PM   #45
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No inverter in a 83 310, unless a PO added one. As Mike said, converter is below freezer/icebox. That being said, all these rigs were custom made.......
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Old 02-27-2018, 04:42 PM   #46
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Exactly....I've looked at quite a few.....never seen 2 the same, even if they were same year, same model.....it's an Airstream thing I guess, Regards, Bob
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Old 02-27-2018, 06:19 PM   #47
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Thanks everyone for the help on my questions. The PO told me that when he started the generator the inverter failed to swap over ???. I have never dealt with using a onboard generator so that is why I asked the knowledgeable people. Trying to see if the converter is bad. Got my electrical guru coming to look when our weather settles down. Still trying to get things working. I will look around the frig for my converter. My original paperwork I just dug through shows a Progressive Dynamics PD9200 converter.Thanks Jim.
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Old 02-27-2018, 08:25 PM   #48
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Originally Posted by cole3444 View Post
Thanks everyone for the help on my questions. The PO told me that when he started the generator the inverter failed to swap over ???. I have never dealt with using a onboard generator so that is why I asked the knowledgeable people. Trying to see if the converter is bad. Got my electrical guru coming to look when our weather settles down. Still trying to get things working. I will look around the frig for my converter. My original paperwork I just dug through shows a Progressive Dynamics PD9200 converter.Thanks Jim.
I think what is happening is the electrical transfer switch may not be working properly, or the generator isn't producing power.
. The transfer switch is located in the back electrical compartment. It will have three leads coming into the box. One is your shore power cable; one is the lead sending power to the coach and the other is power coming from the generator. The transfer switch switches over from shore power to generator depending on what source is producing power. If you start your generator while plugged into shore power, it will transfer to generator.
Does your coach accept shore power? If so, good. Unplug from shore power before doing the next item.
Open transfer switch box cover and make sure wires are not impeding the ability for the switches to move freely. Sometimes the switch relays can become stuck over time, so move them manually if you can to free them up.
Open up generator bay and ascertain if both 30 amp breakers on generator are not tripped and in the on position. Start generator, if transfer switch still doesn't switch over, take a circuit tester and test the hot lead coming into the box from the generator for power. If not hot, then your generator is the problem.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:20 AM   #49
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The cabinets are ABS, and as such can be repaired or “welded” with MEK. There are plastic glues that might work, and also others have used isocyanate type glues.
I prefer the MEK method. It actually melts the ABS and reforms it back together.
MEK is a powerful solvent, so treat it with respect, and be safe, wear safety equipment, and in a well ventilated environment.

If the crack is tight or closed, simply dipping a Q-tip in MEK and applying it to the BACK or non visible side of the crack, will draw the MEK into the crack and melt the ABS back together. I have found this is the best method, and results in minimal distortion and the neatest visible side repair. Do not touch the visible side at all, until it is dried and set, as any contact will smear or the melted area.
If the crack is open or distorted, it gets trickier. If you put tape on the visible side of the joint, it holds the surface together well. However, that tape has a tendency to pull the MEK onto the visible surface of the plastic and damage the texture/color. You will end up painting it, and whilst there are great plastic spray paints, the texture is tricky to match. A foam roller with a different paint will give good texture, but I have not tried this yet.

If the crack is bad, bigger or pieces missing it gets more tricky.
Drilling the end of the crack is a time honored way to stop it spreading.
After that, you use the same method above to weld the good fitting parts together. After that, gaps, or holes need to be filled with what I call slurry. This is a mixture of MEK, and bits of ABS that is kept in a Quart paint tin. I have white and black on hand. If you had some pieces of old cabinet or similar you could make a better color match.
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Old 02-28-2018, 11:23 AM   #50
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Some 310s had one transfer switch, others had two. My 310 had two.

Here's a link to a thread where I uploaded my 310 wiring diagrams that I created after tracing down all of the wiring in the motorhome. Hopefully the diagrams will give you some guidance on how things are wired (assuming you have two transfer switches).

Brad
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Old 02-28-2018, 12:33 PM   #51
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What year was your 310 Brad?
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:01 PM   #52
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Keyair I will try the MEK my cracks are a clean smooth break no damage to ends and butt together nicely. bkahler I have a set of drawings in the file box that the PO had got from you in August 2012 showing how to connect a rear A/C switch could something have come loose to cause my problem. Scratching my head on this. Trying to get generator started now. Turns over but no start. Will look at your drawings and trace these others on second A/C unit.
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:55 PM   #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cole3444 View Post
....bkahler I have a set of drawings in the file box that the PO had got from you in August 2012 showing how to connect a rear A/C switch could something have come loose to cause my problem. Scratching my head on this. Trying to get generator started now. Turns over but no start. Will look at your drawings and trace these others on second A/C unit.
There are one or two fuses behind the black cover on the generator where the start/stop switch is. They are glass fuses and I believe should be 10 amps each. In one of the generator manuals there is a listing of what the fuses should be.

Also, if your Kohler has the solenoid shutoff valve that could also be causing the no start situation. If yours has the solenoid it is connected to the ignition coil and if the issue is like mine, the solenoid was going bad and drawing to much current. That caused two issues. The first is the excess current draw would drop the voltage at the coil causing to little voltage going through the points. Low voltage will keep the spark plugs from firing hot enough. Second, is the failing solenoid will also cause those fuses to blow.

I removed the solenoid and plugged the hole. Problem solved

Brad
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Old 02-28-2018, 04:46 PM   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Some 310s had one transfer switch, others had two. My 310 had two.

Here's a link to a thread where I uploaded my 310 wiring diagrams that I created after tracing down all of the wiring in the motorhome. Hopefully the diagrams will give you some guidance on how things are wired (assuming you have two transfer switches).

Brad
Now I'm confused;

I remember you upgrading the 310 to 50 amp service, and replacing your 30 amp transfer switch to 50 amp.......but what does the other one do?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Cheers
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PS, Just read your other post to which I responded....no second switch for me. (but there was a guy on the grassy knoll).
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Old 02-28-2018, 05:45 PM   #55
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Another possible simple answer to the “no start” question: not enough gas in the tank. The generator will run out of gas before the coach motor, they did this on purpose to keep you from running the tank dry with the generator.
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Old 03-01-2018, 05:17 AM   #56
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Now I'm confused;

I remember you upgrading the 310 to 50 amp service, and replacing your 30 amp transfer switch to 50 amp.......but what does the other one do?

Inquiring minds want to know.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony
I upgraded my little 20' Argosy to 50 amps, not the 310.


Quote:
PS, Just read your other post to which I responded....no second switch for me. (but there was a guy on the grassy knoll).
The 2nd transfer switch located under the closet controls where the power to the rear air conditioner is coming from. When the generator is not running both transfer switches are de-energized. When they are de-energized the rotary switch above the sink controls which air conditioner gets to run when you are plugged into shore power. On shore power only one air conditioner can run at a time. However when the generator is running both transfer switches are energized. When both are energized then the transfer switch located in the electrical compartment switches the connection over to the generator buss which allows the generator to power everything in the coach as if it was on shore power.

However the 2nd transfer switch disconnects the rear air conditioner from the rotary switch and instead directly powers the rear air conditioner from the generator. That means the rotary switch can no longer supply power to the rear air conditioner.

Think of it this way, the generator has two circuits (two 30 amp breakers) where the shore power is only one circuit (one 30 amp breaker). Basically the generator is providing roughly 60 amps of service where the shore power connection only provides 30. So Airstream used one of those 30 amp circuits from the generator to power the rear air conditioner. This allows you to run both air conditioners at the same time when on generator power but only one when on shore power.

Make sense?

Brad
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Old 10-04-2018, 12:15 PM   #57
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Help needed

Have a few questions on parts for my 310. Have not posted here lately but my new post got zero responses so I thought I would try here.
1.I found some rubber flock channel for my sliders that is a little different sized than VTS and was wondering if it might work. 7/16w x 7/16H x 3/16-7/32 glass width, list as part # AS1528 ??.
2. Type of windshield caulk for the gasket edges to seal cracks. Unable to find the type that has been talked about (glass shops) on the Forums.
3. The vertical gasket for the sliders is a lot thicker than the original that slides in the grove, anyone have any tricks to get it in, a lot tighter than the front windows were. Will it hurt to widen the groove a little.
4. Anyone running Hankook AH35 tires, only ones that I have found in my area except some China brand that I never heard of.
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Old 10-04-2018, 12:46 PM   #58
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See my notes in you text:

Quote:
Originally Posted by cole3444 View Post
Have a few questions on parts for my 310. Have not posted here lately but my new post got zero responses so I thought I would try here.
1.I found some rubber flock channel for my sliders that is a little different sized than VTS and was wondering if it might work. 7/16w x 7/16H x 3/16-7/32 glass width, list as part # AS1528 ??.
You may want to post a cross section pic of what you have


2. Type of windshield caulk for the gasket edges to seal cracks. Unable to find the type that has been talked about (glass shops) on the Forums.
This is the stuff I used: https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Uret.../dp/B000RW1XCK


3. The vertical gasket for the sliders is a lot thicker than the original that slides in the grove, anyone have any tricks to get it in, a lot tighter than the front windows were. Will it hurt to widen the groove a little.
Same as #1, need a photo.



4. Anyone running Hankook AH35 tires, only ones that I have found in my area except some China brand that I never heard of.
I think Hankook is Chinese also? I found Cooper RM170's at Service Tire Truck Center, they are in quite a few states and have good prices
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Old 10-04-2018, 05:17 PM   #59
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WayneG, thanks for the help.
The rubber window gasket I found is shown very similar to VTS half the price if it will work. Thanks for the sealant info for the windshield and on my tires I can't get anyone to mount 225/19.5 tires on 6" rims due to liability. Did you by chance mount 225's on 6" rims and if so did you have spacing issues between tires on rear tandems. Waiting on a party to send info on four 10 lug aluminum bud rims to see if they will fit my 310 and their width. I have three pics on the window gaskets, two not great but shows some of the gap and the seal the other is original and the new from VTS.
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Old 10-05-2018, 02:37 AM   #60
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I have 225/70R19.5's on my stock front rims that are 6" which I think is the minimum width for those tires. I still have the standard tires on the back, but they will need to be replaced due to age soon. I have heard about the sidewall rubbing problem, but Nobody has posted that it is a real problem.

As for the gaskets, The vertical lip seal does look like the wrong style, but it may fit with warm soapy water?
The black window channel looks like what everyone is selling these days.

Ten years ago you could buy the proper stuff, I dont know where you can get it now. I had a box of it in the basement but mice got to it and most of it is useless now. I dont think I have enough to do my sliding windows (dreading the day I start that job)
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