Charlie the Airstream

[Kvsterling]

Giving the propane tank some much-needed love! She is all wire brushed and sanded now. Planing to prime/paint and add a little mud flap so the road wash will no longer media-blast the lower edge of the tank (pic 2)

Considering replace the gauge. I have never really trusted the reading on the digital display inside, and the ohm readings are all over the place. Reading 130 when indicating full (for a 0-90 ohm gauge)

Also, needed to replace the O ring in the shut-off valve. It’s been leaking for years and could only get it to stop turning to full open or closed

[Kvsterling]

Had to share this special edition cast iron pan. Check out the bottom!



Limited-time deal: Lodge Cast Iron Wanderlust Series, Dual Handled Camper Pan, 10.25 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09JB4XR18...ing=UTF8&psc=1

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

Giving the propane tank some much-needed love! She is all wire brushed and sanded now. Planing to prime/paint and add a little mud flap so the road wash will no longer media-blast the lower edge of the tank (pic 2)

Considering replace the gauge. I have never really trusted the reading on the digital display inside, and the ohm readings are all over the place. Reading 130 when indicating full (for a 0-90 ohm gauge)

Also, needed to replace the O ring in the shut-off valve. It’s been leaking for years and could only get it to stop turning to full open or closed

I will have one of those tanks available, if anyone is interested. Pickup FOB Austin only, haha

[Kvsterling]

So what I understand is that permanently-installed propane tanks on motorhomes do not need to be re certified.

Has anybody run into problems doing a voluntary re-certification?

The tank is all re painted, but my warning stickers were really damaged. I wound up scraping off for the re-paint

[richard5933]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

So what I understand is that permanently-installed propane tanks on motorhomes do not need to be re certified.

Has anybody run into problems doing a voluntary re-certification?

The tank is all re painted, but my warning stickers were really damaged. I wound up scraping off for the re-paint

Call your local propane dealer. I'm sure they could do an inspection. May or may not actually be a certification involved but at least you would know it's safe to use.

[Kvsterling]

Seems much simpler to find DOT tank inspectors. Not so much for ASME tank on motorhomes. I have been able to find only 1 within driving distance, and not sure if they are still doing walk in services due to COVID changes

Thanks to a chat with fellow MH restorer Ken, got some insight to the window leak. Seems there is a hidden screw that may be degrading causing the leak. First attempt at sealing a new area and we had a bit of precipitation today;still dry…Progress!

[Kvsterling]

Got the propane tank re-installed and added its own little mud flap to protect it from road debris

Updates on the MH have been sparse, but the work continues. The wife wanted a backsplash, so that’s in progress. I attached a secondary skin with construction adhesive and rivets as a base for the tile to reduce flex. I removed a couple rivets attaching interior skin to frame in case access behind the wall is needed in the future. Also, construction adhesive tile to the wall. Found a flexible grout, so that and caulk the edges and it’s done. First time doing tile, so we will see how it holds up on the road

[Kvsterling]

Underneath, the seal on the steering damper ruptured dripping oil in my parking spot. So now that’s replaced.

Also, valve cover grommets have been seeping oil for who knows how long. Actually 2 if the 3 were torn and feel pretty hard/brittle. Hope this reduces the mess

PARTS AVAILABLE:
Back when we pulled everything for the renovation, there were a few things we held onto. At this point, I’m interested in purging these items. Please let me know if there is any interest, I may post in the classifieds as well. This is a motorhome-specific monitor panel they was fully functional when it was removed

Also dinette cushions and upholstered armrest at the side of a converting couch. I have the flip-over backrest hardware for the sofa available as well

[Kvsterling]

Here is some pics of dinette stuff/pattern

[Kvsterling]

And…why did I neglect these?![ATTACH]416322
Looking forward to a west coast road trip with slightly improved gas mileage

[Kvsterling]

So with all sparks plugs changed I’m planning to check timing. To verify, 16 deg before TDC with timing advance plugged, does this sound right?

In this MH the Banks intake/exhaust is installed, Edelbrock carb, and all the stock emissions gear is gone. I have the MSD ignition system with knock alert and adjustable timing control. This gives 15 degrees adjustment on-the-fly, so I’m thinking…make it 16 degrees that I can retard based on altitude and heat changes (if knock alerts)?

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

So with all sparks plugs changed I’m planning to check timing. To verify, 16 deg before TDC with timing advance plugged, does this sound right?

In this MH the Banks intake/exhaust is installed, Edelbrock carb, and all the stock emissions gear is gone. I have the MSD ignition system with knock alert and adjustable timing control. This gives 15 degrees adjustment on-the-fly, so I’m thinking…make it 16 degrees that I can retard based on altitude and heat changes (if knock alerts)?

Always thought 4 BTDC is the magic number?

[Kvsterling]

Interesting…A previous owner noted both 4 deg and 6 deg in a service manual. I’m learning that the 454 underwent a lot of changes through the generations, so want to make sure I use appropriate timing for ***1984 mark IV 454***

None of the manuals I have indicate the timing spec

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

Interesting…A previous owner noted both 4 deg and 6 deg in a service manual. I’m learning that the 454 underwent a lot of changes through the generations, so want to make sure I use appropriate timing for ***1984 mark IV 454***

None of the manuals I have indicate the timing spec

Yup, manuals usually refer to the sticker on the air intake or radiator. All the the manuals I own talk about 4-6 degrees.
I found this picture of the emission/vaccuum routing 1983 310

[Boom Sounds]

Originally Posted by PeterH-350LE

Always thought 4 BTDC is the magic number?

I concur and need to disconnect the brown wire which is usually in front of passenger seat (at least it is on my coach). I cleaned and marked the timing mark and we did timing from underneath with someone else making the changes at the doghouse

[Boom Sounds]

Originally Posted by PeterH-350LE

Yup, manuals usually refer to the sticker on the air intake or radiator. All the the manuals I own talk about 4-6 degrees.
I found this picture of the emission/vaccuum routing 1983 310

I concur and need to disconnect the brown wire which is usually in front of passenger seat (at least it is on my coach). I cleaned and marked the timing mark and we did timing from underneath with someone else making the changes at the doghouse

[LM782]

I hope (pray?) there is someone in the forum with a better answer than what little expertise I offer - because, I was about to ask a very similar question. Will detail our setup and sum up my notes in The Onion Chronicles.

The softest way to put it is, far as I can tell, you've entered the realm of hot rodding your Airstream Classic (willingly or by accident). Apparently, as have I. Not sure it's the best layman's summary, but I've come across "advance timing until pre-detonation (pinging) and then back it off until it's gone" in a few places.

Pre-detonation is not good for your engine, and not recommended for extended durations. Do so at your own risk. My nonprofessional summary is worth every penny you're paying for it.

That said, you pulled out (smog) and/or replaced various parts that make 4 or 6 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) obsolete for your vehicle. From what I've come across, you could go with 10-12 BTDC particularly since you have a pre-detonation sensor and 15 degrees of automatic adjustment. What MSD system are you using? (I might want to give it a try.)

There is a bunch of theory involved with ignition timing. There's initial (set at idle) and total (set at a desired engine speed, RPM) ignition timing, and a curve in between. In modern engines, it's all done by sensors and computers - they don't have distributors anymore. Our engines have mechanical (weights controlled by springs and stops) and vacuum advance, such that we're left to tweaking the distributor's ignition curve by changing bits.

If what I've come across is right, 4 degrees BTDC was primarily to improve emissions (some say also to get the engine to idle super smooth) at the cost of efficiency and power. The two numbers I've come across are 10 degrees BTDC at idle and 35 total advance.

There's a pretty good write up here https://www.chevelles.com/threads/me...stions.228225/

Luis

[Boom Sounds]

Originally Posted by Boom Sounds

I concur and need to disconnect the brown wire which is usually in front of passenger seat (at least it is on my coach). I cleaned and marked the timing mark and we did timing from underneath with someone else making the changes at the doghouse

Ignore the tan wire comment. I believe that only applies on later Gen V 7.4L engines because I think (not 100%) it takes the ECM out of circuit when setting timing on TBI engines. I have some earlier manuals (79 and 82) and had a quick look. Neither of them refer to 4 BTDC. They all say look at your emissions sticker to be sure of the stock set up.

[Kvsterling]

Thanks for the feedback! Upon checking the timing without adjustment, it appears to be about 12-14 degrees BTDC. I adjusted back to 4 degrees and definitely not happy with that, nearly stalling the engine. To complicate my timing situation, this engine is a remanufactured replacement done in the 90’s. A mechanic I met said it runs like there is a performance (rv) cam. If so, I’m sure this alters the timing as well

Ultimately, I changed nothing with the timing but rebuilt the distributor and changed spark plugs. My test drive revealed: easier to start and my butt dyno proved stronger acceleration hill climbing

Here is the MSD timing control we have installed:

https://www.jegs.com/i/MSD-Ignition/121/8680/10002/-1

Getting everything ready for a cross-country Mountain-Themed trip including Colorado, Mt Rainier and Olympus, and up to Canadian Rockies.

[Kvsterling]

And using this knock alert but may not be available anymore