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Old 03-03-2021, 07:26 PM   #121
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The PO did admit to failed bags and had driven it while they were flat. He said, just take your time, dont have to drive fast. I drove it home about 2 hr. Im guessing the damage was done. It has the generator on passenger side, and may be heavier on the right as well. I never did a 4 corner weight

Its interesting, it listed to the passenger side more when it was completely gutted. Now that the interior is re-built, the rear suspension is loaded and it looks more level. The rear springs look almost the same now

These pics are with the MH parked on a bit of a slope, so it is level inside.

Looks like the front sway bar bushings were replaced, but not the rear
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Old 03-03-2021, 09:02 PM   #122
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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Looking at both leaf springs it looks like some of the leaves on one
side may not be carrying their load. Notice on the top photo that
all leaves are pressed tightly together. On the bottom photo there
are gaps in the pack of leaves. It is if some are shirking their load.
Perhaps they bent or cracked?
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Old 03-04-2021, 05:57 AM   #123
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I would asked the spring shop to take a very close look at this area. It seems it took the brunt of the extended driving without airbags. I doubt that heavy duty shocks like the Bilstein were able to dampen any of the load, so they are suspect of replacement as well.
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Old 03-04-2021, 06:30 AM   #124
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Looks very similar to mine, when I jacked up the rear of the coach my passenger spring did this... They obviously weren't very springy or consistent
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Old 03-04-2021, 10:02 AM   #125
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My old 310 had the same damage done to the frame where the ends of the springs banged against it when the bags were low/empty.

During our trip home with the 310 after purchase, I found that the compressor wasn't working and the previous owner had filled the air tank from his compressor and didn't tell me. I'm not sure how far we got before I realized there was something wrong with the suspension. All I could do was fill the tank each time we stopped at a gas station. It wasn't until I got home that I really realized just how bad the problem really was.

There are good POs and there are bad POs. This one wasn't one of the better ones.
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Old 03-05-2021, 09:19 PM   #126
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The frame curve in the previous post is part of the chassis. Its the same on the other side. I think this is more of a spring and less of a frame issue (I hope!)
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Old 03-14-2021, 10:01 AM   #127
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There has always been a very hard pull required for the parking brake (handle, no auto park). Also, this happens to the cable support after attempting to re-align. The force shifts it off axis. The cable is adjusted to its longest position, and thinking my only option is to move the cable mount 1.5 to the right. Re drill and mount. May need to weld on a support to reduce possibility of rotating

Is this one of those P30 oddities?
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Old 03-14-2021, 12:15 PM   #128
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kvsterling View Post
There has always been a very hard pull required for the parking brake (handle, no auto park). Also, this happens to the cable support after attempting to re-align. The force shifts it off axis. The cable is adjusted to its longest position, and thinking my only option is to move the cable mount 1.5 to the right. Re drill and mount. May need to weld on a support to reduce possibility of rotating

Is this one of those P30 oddities?

No 2 P30's are the same. I had to find a short OEM cable when I took the overdrive out. (remember Brad, when you helped me to source it?) A couple of month later I installed the custom built 480le and new rear trans mounts. Now, the perfectly fitting cable was too tight and it pre loaded the e brake. I had to modify something similar but my bracket layout is different since there also used to be an auto ebrake.
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Old 03-14-2021, 06:22 PM   #129
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The airstream was being a real B today!

The park brake cable was binding and appeared to be too short. This is a replacement situation. Hope I order the right part. 106 cable, brake code JF9 sound right?

The Rostra cruise control troubleshooting uncovered I wired the brake switch wrong...going back under the dash

And while looking at the CC module, I bent and then broke one of the vestigial emissions pipes for the header...that makes an exhaust leak for both sides of the headers. I really want to just remove them and put a bolt in the hole. Just not convinced I cant do it without breaking something. They are pretty rusted on :-(
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Old 03-14-2021, 07:39 PM   #130
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My exhaust air injection manifold was completely rusted through.
It just disintegrated when I tried to remove it.

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I got some pipe plugs with flat bottoms. I cut the bottoms at an angle
so as to match the angle of the exhaust manifold where they would
screw in.

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I tapped the hole with the appropriate sized pipe tap. As I
remember it is 1/2-14 NPT.

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The hole in the manifold is a little large for the thread to have full
engagement. That meant that the plugs would not screw down tight
so I staked the plugs from the inside.

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This will prevent them from rattling out. After a short time they should
rust solidly in place anyway.

Judging from the intrusion of the air injectors and their disruption
of the exhaust flow I expect more power and better gas mileage from
the engine.
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Old 03-15-2021, 05:54 AM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air345Fly View Post
My exhaust air injection manifold was completely rusted through.
It just disintegrated when I tried to remove it.

Attachment 390758

I got some pipe plugs with flat bottoms. I cut the bottoms at an angle
so as to match the angle of the exhaust manifold where they would
screw in.

Attachment 390759

I tapped the hole with the appropriate sized pipe tap. As I
remember it is 1/2-14 NPT.

Attachment 390760

The hole in the manifold is a little large for the thread to have full
engagement. That meant that the plugs would not screw down tight
so I staked the plugs from the inside.

Attachment 390761

This will prevent them from rattling out. After a short time they should
rust solidly in place anyway.

Judging from the intrusion of the air injectors and their disruption
of the exhaust flow I expect more power and better gas mileage from
the engine.
I believe I have a set of these manifolds sitting up in the barn.....
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Old 03-15-2021, 07:57 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kvsterling View Post
The airstream was being a real B today!

The park brake cable was binding and appeared to be too short. This is a replacement situation. Hope I order the right part. 106 cable, brake code JF9 sound right?

The Rostra cruise control troubleshooting uncovered I wired the brake switch wrong...going back under the dash

And while looking at the CC module, I bent and then broke one of the vestigial emissions pipes for the header...that makes an exhaust leak for both sides of the headers. I really want to just remove them and put a bolt in the hole. Just not convinced I cant do it without breaking something. They are pretty rusted on :-(
Is your state a smog state?
If not I'd consider just getting new smogless headers that are less restrictive
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Old 03-15-2021, 05:12 PM   #133
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Magnet18 View Post
Is your state a smog state?
If not I'd consider just getting new smogless headers that are less restrictive

I don't think that this will be a problem in New Hampshire.
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Old 03-15-2021, 05:14 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
I believe I have a set of these manifolds sitting up in the barn.....

These are the better manifolds. The earlier ones without the

accordion section were prone to cracking and blowing their
gasket.
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Old 03-16-2021, 05:31 AM   #135
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air345Fly View Post
These are the better manifolds. The earlier ones without the

accordion section were prone to cracking and blowing their
gasket.
I'm not sure if mine of the accordion or not, I'll have to look. They came off an 86 345.
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Old 03-16-2021, 07:58 AM   #136
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Mine is the Banks headers, but it retained the air injection tubes. They were not used, but instead of removing them, they had been capped. The thin tubing has rusted and now leaking.

My intention is to soak them for a week with BP blaster and then an impact wrench. Once removed, I will place bungs and call it good

Just drove it for 45 minutes, and the fumes are pretty bad!
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Old 03-18-2021, 08:57 AM   #137
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Just got some of the Doug Thorley headers (without the air injection ports) that Brad is using. They are really well made. Best $750 I have spent on this M.H. ! I have had nothing but trouble with headers leaking over the years. These things will solve all your problems.
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Old 03-18-2021, 09:54 AM   #138
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Air345Fly View Post
These are the better manifolds. The earlier ones without the

accordion section were prone to cracking and blowing their
gasket.
The ones I have up in the barn are accordian style.

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Old 03-18-2021, 10:01 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gregsch View Post
Just got some of the Doug Thorley headers (without the air injection ports) that Brad is using. They are really well made. Best $750 I have spent on this M.H. ! I have had nothing but trouble with headers leaking over the years. These things will solve all your problems.
Yeah, the Thorley headers are really nice! Really thick flanges that won't warp

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Old 03-20-2021, 06:29 PM   #140
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bkahler View Post
Yeah, the Thorley headers are really nice! Really thick flanges that won't warp



Attachment 391027


Your engine bay is way too clean! Its not frequent that I can post a before and after pic on the same day, but here are the tubes removed and ports plugged. Was able to remove 5/8 without breaking. The others needed tapping for a smaller plug.
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