Charlie the Airstream

[bobmiller1]

Ah....you just can’t kill the old Surburban.....”good as gold”. Can’t say much about the Hydro-Flame (Atwood’s) though....still silent killers. I’ve had my 30,000 Surburban in the Snap-On truck for 31 years....replaced 2 blower motors, 3 boards, 1 sail switch, and the original igniter crapped out after 28 years....must have been made in China ! Regards, Bob

[Kvsterling]

Roger that in CO2 monitor, it’s been on the counter every time the furnace or generator is on! Furnace fired right up and blowing hot, quiet, and strong

Haven’t had the furnace on in a couple weeks, but went out to check things and the last 20% of propane is gone. The gas leak detector didn’t alarm around the furnace after being hooked up, makes me think it’s the shut off valve on the main tank...

Looking into AmeriGas or Uhaul service center to test the valve before the refill. May also add an extend-a-stay port, but questioning how much it would be used. Maybe to connect a grill. Anybody use one?

[cmadmaxman]

I have the system on our coach, use it all the time for the Blackstone!

[Magnet18]

Extend a stay is great for a propane fire pit or grill, also super useful to run the airstream off an external propane bottle. Zero regrets about installing.

[Kvsterling]

Well...extend a stay is on the way. Figured it would be a good time to add, then charge the system with a little propane and locate that leak

In other news, needed to extended the bed by 4” (base and backrest frames). This is our only bed, had to make it work for my 6’1” height. Have a Brooklyn mattress on the way which will be modified to fit base and back

And the SS is installed by steering gear box. It took a ton of play out of the steering! Planned to do passenger side today, but it’s a rain-out

[PeterH-350LE]

your drivers side under carriage looks so clean! You must of a rare case of a non leaking power steering pump?

[Kvsterling]

Ha! It was pretty oily when we got her. It had leaky master cylinder, oil coolant lines, and steering gear. All replaced, most leaks fixed. Still have to deal with a rear main seal (I think). It’s pretty minor, wondering if a rear main seal leak stop additive might work

Did get a break in the weather and got the passenger side bell crank in...now in desperate need of an alignment!

I’ve reviewed different alignment spec from SS, chassis manual, and P30 alignment article. Taking a look at the SS recommendation, does this look right?

Left and right difference for caster and camber?

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

Ha! It was pretty oily when we got her. It had leaky master cylinder, oil coolant lines, and steering gear. All replaced, most leaks fixed. Still have to deal with a rear main seal (I think). It’s pretty minor, wondering if a rear main seal leak stop additive might work

Did get a break in the weather and got the passenger side bell crank in...now in desperate need of an alignment!

I’ve reviewed different alignment spec from SS, chassis manual, and P30 alignment article. Taking a look at the SS recommendation, does this look right?

Left and right difference for caster and camber?

Never seen an additive that wasn't a poor bandaid that risked causing more issues than it solved. Your rear main may swell up a bit to compensate for work away rubber, but every other rubber part will be at risk of changing properties, like the valve stem seals, etc. Dropping the transmission isn't that hard if you're in your home shop, I'd just replace the seal. My $.02.

(Or live with it... If it's measured in hundred of miles per quart)

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

Ha! It was pretty oily when we got her. It had leaky master cylinder, oil coolant lines, and steering gear. All replaced, most leaks fixed. Still have to deal with a rear main seal (I think). It’s pretty minor, wondering if a rear main seal leak stop additive might work

Did get a break in the weather and got the passenger side bell crank in...now in desperate need of an alignment!

I’ve reviewed different alignment spec from SS, chassis manual, and P30 alignment article. Taking a look at the SS recommendation, does this look right?

Left and right difference for caster and camber?

Nick posted this on FB, a must to read before you bring it in for alignment:

[Kvsterling]

That is the article I mentioned, this Nick knows his stuff! Unfortunately I have a right rear spring stack sagging down a bit while the left is still flat/upright, pulling the whole coach into a right lean. This throws off my attempt to measure ride height at each corner.

The spring situation needs to be addressed, then alignment. I’ve found a spring shop that does this work for trucks and RV in Dayton (OH). Hoping to get into the shop within a couple weeks.

Have a list of things to do before committing to an hour drive

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

That is the article I mentioned, this Nick knows his stuff! Unfortunately I have a right rear spring stack sagging down a bit while the left is still flat/upright, pulling the whole coach into a right lean. This throws off my attempt to measure ride height at each corner.

The spring situation needs to be addressed, then alignment. I’ve found a spring shop that does this work for trucks and RV in Dayton (OH). Hoping to get into the shop within a couple weeks.

Have a list of things to do before committing to an hour drive

Airbag or leaf spring? You likely saw my leaf spring saga, make sure that shop knows what they're in for, rebuilding a custom system, welding to the springs, etc.

[Kvsterling]

It’s the Leaf spring...the bags and leveling valve have been replaced

I remember reading about your saga, one of the reasons I wanted a shop to cover this one!!!

[Magnet18]

Gotcha, I'd make sure they know what they're getting into. Ask if they've done any suspensions that required cutting and welding onto a leaf spring, and if so, ask what they used to weld it. If they say "we just migged it" run like hell.

If they haven't welded to a leaf spring, but they're up to the challenge, I would buy the welding stick and provide it with the keys to the coach


Also make sure they know that the leaf springs installed are not what will come up in the parts database, if they use regular P30 leaf springs they'll end up quite a bit smaller.

Can't stress enough how wierd and unusual this welded on suspension is. Maybe it's more common on motorhomes than I think, but my dad designed truck suspensions for 20+ years and had never even heard of a suspension that required welding to a leaf spring.

[Kvsterling]

This shop is a dedicated truck/antique truck/RV spring shop, been around for about 100 years. They said they have done a lot of motorhomes, and often only need to have the springs re-arched. I’m inclined to let them try if they determine it’s an appropriate repair, and they offer the warranty. Also doing the alignment

Pretty cool place, called Acme Spring. Will update on my experience

[Magnet18]

Cool, if they can do a hot method to re-do the heat treat and anneal to erase the memory of the metal grains, that may be a better option than replacing. The alloy quality of the original steel will likely be higher than that of a replacement spring. I didn't think of re-arching.

Interested to see!

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

That is the article I mentioned, this Nick knows his stuff! Unfortunately I have a right rear spring stack sagging down a bit while the left is still flat/upright, pulling the whole coach into a right lean. This throws off my attempt to measure ride height at each corner.

The spring situation needs to be addressed, then alignment. I’ve found a spring shop that does this work for trucks and RV in Dayton (OH). Hoping to get into the shop within a couple weeks.

Have a list of things to do before committing to an hour drive

Do you have any pictures of the difference in sagging between the two sides? I am really curious what would cause such a condition.

[s1000pre]

Originally Posted by cmadmaxman

I have the system on our coach, use it all the time for the Blackstone!Attachment 389414

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by PeterH-350LE

Do you have any pictures of the difference in sagging between the two sides? I am really curious what would cause such a condition.

Anecdotally, my passenger side was visibly worse as well.

Statistically there are more potholes on the passenger side of the road.

The passenger side wears out a lot faster on old cars especially up north, it's the side water runs towards, more crud and road debris on that side, more salty slush therefore more rust, and more potholes. First check for rust on a 60s mustang is opening the passenger side door.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

Anecdotally, my passenger side was visibly worse as well.

Statistically there are more potholes on the passenger side of the road.

The passenger side wears out a lot faster on old cars especially up north, it's the side water runs towards, more crud and road debris on that side, more salty slush therefore more rust, and more potholes. First check for rust on a 60s mustang is opening the passenger side door.

Of the 4 Classics I have owned, I never have observed that kind of wear, neither on the many I have looked at. If I would have to guess for the reason, I would suspect driving extended amount of time with defective Airbags and/or Transverse Rod bushings

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by PeterH-350LE

Of the 4 Classics I have owned, I never have observed that kind of wear, neither on the many I have looked at. If I would have to guess for the reason, I would suspect driving extended amount of time with defective Airbags and/or Transverse Rod bushings

Could be. Or you've looked at desert models instead of salt-belt models
Mine wasn't notably different when just looking at the coach, but once I got the springs out the pass side spring was definitely in worse shape.