Charlie the Airstream

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

The next chassis project is to replace the rubber fuel lines from the tank. They look original from what I can tell, including the run to the genset without a filter:-(

How much time should I commit to dropping the tank? Other than managing the hulking tank, is there anything especially difficult or technical I should be aware of?

yes, several things:
1. of course empty it as much as you can
2. Measure clearance, if you want to pull it out completely. You may need drive up on ramps, which I prefer to do to have working clearance for myself.
3. Have good (modified) floor jack with a platform to balance the weight
4. Know that the supply hose and vent hose may be a pain to get off, since it goes through the frame and is hard to reach
5. if you only want to reach the hose fittings on top of the tank, you can tilt it carefully down on the passenger side. (it will tilt by itself, because of the hose fittings being partially in the frame) Supply and vent hose still will have to be pulled.
6. Observe routing of the fuel lines to avoid pinching upon installation.
7. Extinguish all smoking materials, yes BobM you too.



With the right jack, plenty of clearance, it can be a 1 man job, but much easier and safer with another sets of hands and brains.

[Kvsterling]

Thank you Peter! That looks doable

Guess that part section...[ATTACH]396191
[ATTACH]396192

This is a fix vs replace situation

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

Thank you Peter! That looks doable

Guess that part section...[ATTACH]396191
[ATTACH]396192

This is a fix vs replace situation

Propane mixer carburetor?

[Kvsterling]

Originally Posted by PeterH-350LE

Propane mixer carburetor?

clue: it was in the engine bay and has a vacuum line attached to make it run

[cmadmaxman]

Vacuum run air compressor!

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

clue: it was in the engine bay and has a vacuum line attached to make it run

1800 century cruise control

[Kvsterling]

It is the vacuum run air compressor (ding ding ding)!!!!!

Hasn’t worked for a while and looking to rebuild, replace, or remove.

I have never seen or heard of one. Any suggestions where to start looking?

My other option is plug the input on the tank and just use the solenoid that connects main tank to the air horn tank. It would be the simplest solution...

[cmadmaxman]

Had one a few decades ago!
Really don't think you will find any repair parts. If that's for your air horns, would definitely run them of your bags compressor. That is how our 350 is.

[Kvsterling]

So I just decided to simplify and remove the vacuum line, pump, and plug the holes. Incidentally, the solenoid was also leaking so that was replaced. I may wind up with a leak-free air bag/horn system!!!

[Kvsterling]

The air conditioner compressor mount part number has been located! (My mount has a few cracks. Looks like Chevy used ARA to supply the optional air conditioner system
[ATTACH]398005

Wonder if there is a Chevy replacement? The hunt is on!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

The air conditioner compressor mount part number has been located! (My mount has a few cracks. Looks like Chevy used ARA to supply the optional air conditioner system
[ATTACH]398005

Wonder if there is a Chevy replacement? The hunt is on!

The manual you're referring too is for an 86 Chevy. Does your coach have the hybrid v-belt / ribbed timing belt arrangement?

The 86 345 that I dismantled had the hybrid system. I have the brackets for the hybrid system available if that's what you're looking for.

Brad

[Kvsterling]

Originally Posted by bkahler

The manual you're referring too is for an 86 Chevy. Does your coach have the hybrid v-belt / ribbed timing belt arrangement?



The 86 345 that I dismantled had the hybrid system. I have the brackets for the hybrid system available if that's what you're looking for.



Brad

I have all V-belts, no hybrid system. If the 345 had the compressor wheel shown in the diagram (v belt), then the mount you pulled may work for mine

[Kvsterling]

[ATTACH]398234

The AC mount has a stamp # on it, partially obscured by repair plate but ends in 0240. Brad, wonder if the one in your parts bin has this number?

[bkahler]

Kyle, I got lucky and found the bracket hiding in my storage trailer

[Kvsterling]

Welp, I am off by an inch or two in a couple dimensions. That one is going to move my compressor out of alignment a bit. Thank you for finding that so I could check!

[Kvsterling]

Ive been scratching my head about the switch and ignition relay for the air compressor. The relay gets really hot, and I just couldn’t figure out how it was working with the 5-pin relay. So I put pen to paper and realized that it was running the compressor through the switch circuit! No low-amp switch controlling high draw circuit. Instead, a 20 amp fuse in the dash for both the electric step and air compressor…

No wonder the fuse was blowing!

So this was my solution using 2 relays and a dedicated line from the battery + bus. Pardon the crude drawing/hand writing. I didn’t draw in the pressure switch, but it’s after the 12v breaker

[ATTACH]

Went through 2 cycle of pressurize/discharge and the only thing getting hot is the pump, Yesssssss!

[ATTACH]399237

[Kvsterling]

[ATTACH]
Had some luck locating the air
Conditioner bracket! Thanks to Mark Foley at ARA Automotive Systems (who provided our 1984 factory option AC system for the P32 motorhome chassis)

With some picks and info, he was able to locate a complete bracket kit in their “old stock” to replace my bent/broken one. He indicates this was one of 2 left available!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

[ATTACH]
Had some luck locating the air
Conditioner bracket! Thanks to Mark Foley at ARA Automotive Systems (who provided our 1984 factory option AC system for the P32 motorhome chassis)

With some picks and info, he was able to locate a complete bracket kit in their “old stock” to replace my bent/broken one. He indicates this was one of 2 left available!

Wow! I'll bet the price tag is Wow as well

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Kvsterling

Ive been scratching my head about the switch and ignition relay for the air compressor. The relay gets really hot, and I just couldn’t figure out how it was working with the 5-pin relay. So I put pen to paper and realized that it was running the compressor through the switch circuit! No low-amp switch controlling high draw circuit. Instead, a 20 amp fuse in the dash for both the electric step and air compressor…

No wonder the fuse was blowing!

So this was my solution using 2 relays and a dedicated line from the battery + bus. Pardon the crude drawing/hand writing. I didn’t draw in the pressure switch, but it’s after the 12v breaker

[ATTACH]

Went through 2 cycle of pressurize/discharge and the only thing getting hot is the pump, Yesssssss!

[ATTACH]399237

Yep, airstream just connected it through the fuse block. My 84 310 had the fuse spot melted along with the wire going to the back of the chassis.

Like you I added a relay, worked like a charm after that.

Brad

[Kvsterling]

It was the last electrical component I either re-worked, re wired, or replaced. I’m hoping I’ve addressed most of the original “why did they do it that way” electrical systems

The battery isolator is out after re-wiring and then trying a replacement, so the dc/dc charger is in

Fascinating to see the total hours logged by Brad! I never logged time and stopped counting $$$ after a year and 15k spent. Looking back, we did almost all the work at home, but could have saved more if I did the early chassis repairs myself.

Knowing almost nothing about motorhomes, we had a shop do the first brakes, wheel seals, fluid changes, rear air bag replacement, and some exhaust repair. That bill motivated me to do the rest of the wrenching myself!!!