Changing my air bags.

[cmadmaxman]

That barn is a looking good!

Correct the 2 taped bolt holes on the bottom of the piston are not used in our application.

In the later years, ACS added angles to support the bottom of the piston.
Here are the ones I added to the 1982 310 a few years ago.


Here is what the OEM angles look like on our 1991 350LE.

[Shinytoaster]

Thanks - the barn has been a challenge to say the very least. It'll be fully cured in another few weeks so I'll get the bus in there soon. Then I just have to decide on what type of doors etc. I made the mistake of building it ~15' too short (60x40) and 2' too low. I was just going to have an open layout and put the bus in the middle but I've since decided to section off the last 20' (x40 wide) for an enclosed shop that I can air condition. That meant only 4' each end of the bus to move around (I have a lot of crap). Since the height of the barn is too low to put a roller door on the side (and fit in) so the only option was the middle and put in a load of doors for access to each side (ouch$$).

Upshot I'm going to put a swing door on the outside and the bus will (just) squeeze in there and leave the rest wide open with one 12x12' roller door. Hindsight is a wonderful thing... planning on the go.

Next step is electrical in... electrical reckons 150amps will be more than enough... (I hope so too!).

The chassis on yours is in wonderful condition and a wonderful welding fabrication job on the supports. Once the barn is complete I'll buy a TIG welder (only want one and it seems a TIG is a bit more versatile) and teach myself how to do that. Learn the basic craft on a MIG years ago so hopefully some of the lessons will hold over. Need to rebuild 1/2 the slide out bins amongst other chores (new floor in a TR6) so that should keep me busy.

Mine is largely surface rust so still in good shape but I'm quietly preparing myself for redoing all the brakes etc. Would love to strip it all down and sand blast the chassis, but that's way to much work.

I'm still not comfortable that I've fixed the engine issue but at least she's running (conks out after 20 minutes running). Once the air bags are in (and working) I'll start doing some test runs. Soooooo looking forward to getting her up and running. The goal this summer is one camping trip to the springs (25 miles away) as a bit of a real world test.

Cheers-
Pete

Originally Posted by cmadmaxman

That barn is a looking good!

Correct the 2 taped bolt holes on the bottom of the piston are not used in our application.

In the later years, ACS added angles to support the bottom of the piston.
Here are the ones I added to the 1982 310 a few years ago.
Attachment 416858

Here is what the OEM angles look like on our 1991 350LE.
Attachment 416859

[Shinytoaster]

I am envious how good your bus looks underneath.... wonderful!

Originally Posted by cmadmaxman

That barn is a looking good!

Correct the 2 taped bolt holes on the bottom of the piston are not used in our application.

In the later years, ACS added angles to support the bottom of the piston.
Here are the ones I added to the 1982 310 a few years ago.
Attachment 416858

Here is what the OEM angles look like on our 1991 350LE.
Attachment 416859

[Shinytoaster]

Well the airbag removal is going well apart from some lovely cuts all along the back of my hand reaching in to undo the 9/16th ferrel nuts on the air fittings. That tin is sharp.

As noted the air bag on the 325 tag axle was the 358 5412 - at least the numbers match up on top of the air bag. There must be some logic in putting the numbers on top of the airbag but having to remove it to confirm seems like unnecessary down time. I suppose a printed part number is more likely to last there.

I'll head to NAPA tonight and prove up new Tee's and air line. Hopefully get push fittings so I don't have to go through that pain again. Any suggestions on supply? NAPA is $27 + tax for a single Tee fitting - ouch.

The initial issue was being unsure how the airs lines connected to the tee-fitting but it turned out (once I got my hands in there) to be a standard brass (probably) NPT fitting. Then finding a wrench small enough to turn them was the next issue. I only got one out.... after realizing there was a second nut underneath acting as a lock nut I ordered from SD Truck springs $498 all in. Of course once they had been shipped found some for $400, oh well. After 18 months they are finally on their way.

[cmadmaxman]

Looking like you're moving along.
Pete, you might get some gorilla tape, and tape the opening to protect your hands from that sharp sheet metal!
We're you able to get new bushings and pins for the traverse arm?

[Shinytoaster]

Yeah - it's getting there, slow but steady. We've moved around a fair bit and now in mid-north Florida... like a lot of the country in summer it's just nasty working in the heat (and bugs) so summer is pretty slow getting chores done. So hopefully the barn is going to help that!

The plan is to get the drive line and suspension working, hopefully the new ignition system has solved the mystery cutting out problem - than do a weekend at one of the local springs, or even a 30-45 drive around to see how she feels and a bit of a shake down. Hopefully.. that word again...the functioning tag axle will help her sit a bit more stably on the road. I didn't realize until recently that the tag axle is a torsion bar spring.. I thought the air bags were for the tag.. nope. Makes the drive axle suspension rather complicated compared to a traditional spring system... hopefully it's a lot better.

I was so focused on the job I didn't notice the sharp edge until it was too late, duh... I guess getting older and lack of spritely pain receptors doesn't help

I had a look at the bushings/pins and they seem to be in very good shape, I'll see if I can get some pictures but I'd be inclined to leave them. the bus only has 33K miles so it would only be rubber degradation that could be an issue and I can't see any of that. Having said that, half the issue is seeing what's going on under there. I doubt it's ever been cleaned... not sure how to without swimming under it with a pressure washer... can't say I'm too keen on that... tho' could have been a cool job in summer

Originally Posted by cmadmaxman

Looking like you're moving along.
Pete, you might get some gorilla tape, and tape the opening to protect your hands from that sharp sheet metal!
We're you able to get new bushings and pins for the traverse arm?

[cmadmaxman]

They say, if the steel washer is no longer attached to the neoprene bushing, they need to be replaced.

[mayco]

Must be an airbag epidemic…..just got back from a trip out west and my rear airbags started leaking somewhere in Kansas on our way back to Illinois. Got the old bags out but no sign of a part number on the top. I went ahead and ordered the 5412 bags, I’ve seen only one other mentioned in searching the forums here. Found them on sale at Jensen & Mitchel in New Jersey, $179 per bag. I saw some prices over $500 per bag!!! DANG!

[Shinytoaster]

Well I ordered the airbags from SD suspension waited two weeks and nothing arrived, called them up and they said no Firestone airbags for 20 weeks…. Painful they didn’t let me know. They offered an Automann equivalent and sent those. So another week goes by, they arrive and the central hole that we would normally screw the threaded rod into had a bolt up in there. The diameter of the holes was so tight none of my sockets (3/4) would fit. Went to 4 different tool shops none had anything. Ordered some thin walled sockets… nope not thin enough so I went to work and pulled an old socket to grind down… turned out to be a deep Snapon and low-and-behold squeezed in the hole… thank heavens.

To add to the complexity the Automann versions base was a 2 - piece system (the bolt held them together), so I ended up cleaning up the old Firestone bases and used them - snug.

Finally got it all together with new fittings etc. while up on the axle stands (all the wheels off) I thought I’d test the system… compressor comes on, air tank fills, but no air going into the bags - might that be because the tag (with the leveling valves) is up in the air? Before I start pulling it all apart again or putting the wheels on/off (I need an impact gun…)- thought I’d ask you folks.

Probably should just put the wheels back on but the old back struggles a bit

Thanks -
Pete

[Shinytoaster]

Hi - my tag axle is in rough shape any advice pulling it apart and where you sourced whole brake set up for $50? I’m not familiar with these so a nudge in the right direction would be great - thanks!

Pete

[[/B]QUOTE=davejay;2265293]Hey,
I did a post I think may 15 2017 on doing my airbags on our 325. I changed over to all push on air fittings. I posted all the part numbers. These push on types are pretty much industry standards now in the big truck industry,
While your under there, do your dog one bushings.
I replaced my brakes on the tag axle too. Bought the whole thing. Back plate, brakes installed,with magnets. About 50 bucks per side.totally worth it. Why screw around with the rust etc etc. how you got to those top bolts on the bags I'll never know. DJ[/QUOTE]

[bobmiller1]

Gotta love those Snap-On tools……the best, always get you out of a jam ! Regards, Bob

[Smartstream]

Try disconnecting the link from the arm on the leveling valve and move the arm manually, it will fill the bags. Be aware that it should have a 10 second +or- delay before the air flows. Block the drive axle to approximate normal ride height so you can load the bags and not over-extend them. Good luck

[Shinytoaster]

Great idea - thanks!

Originally Posted by Smartstream

Try disconnecting the link from the arm on the leveling valve and move the arm manually, it will fill the bags. Be aware that it should have a 10 second +or- delay before the air flows. Block the drive axle to approximate normal ride height so you can load the bags and not over-extend them. Good luck