Battery Tray Repair

[Chuckles]

I bought a set of slides from Inland RV. These were for the 6 foot slide out luggage tray on my 310. They were not cheap but are the exact ones.
Just state what model and what they are for.

[crazeevw]

Originally Posted by Roquefort

Hey,
let me step in here.
Does anyone know, where to het NEW sliders for the battery compartment???
Mine are worn, need QUICK tonreplace them!!!!
Thank you for a quick answee!!!!

Like Keyair said, 20 inch slides, 500lb/300lb mobile are what you need. Determine first the actual size you'll need, you never know if size varies from coach to coach.

Found mine on eBay a couple of years ago.

Good Luck, Derek

[Roquefort]

Thank you folks, i will see, what i can get here as a replacement!
The INLAND sliders are very expensive, we have at least to double (!) the price with shipping & duties for Germany 😳!
I will try to fix the sliders (how ever), then figure out a "better solution".
But the tray is allready hanging "deep"...!

What i do NOT understand is, Why is my try still continously rotten???
I cleanded with steelbrush, primered and repainted with special coating. I have 2 AGM batteries, one "normal" start battery. But still this white "stuff" as it was previously from battery acid (?).
Batteries are less then 7 month old!

Was shoked by seeing this mass...! fixed it few month ago!!!

[bobmiller1]

I would check both your alternator and univolt charger for output... It appears that you might be overcharging and cooking your batteries.

[Roquefort]

Hmmmm?
I have a brand-new electronic 3 stage charging device, while the "UNIVOLT" has 120V / 60 Hz, i had to remove it. We have only 50Hz technology in Europe, so the UNIVOLT delivered just about 11V. Not enough to charge at all.
I also had allways low voltage while driving, gage showed only 12,5 V, exspecially by night. After a good cleaning of all conections on the "Lestek" regulator (mounted on radiator frame with just two (!) cheap selfdrilling srews and install of an additional ground wire from this frame to the chassis) i have no constantly 13.5 Volts just after idle engine speed, day & night.
I have asked an electric car mechanic, he told me, from 13,2 till 14,2 volts all is fine.
I will messure again the INCOMING volts, while hooked up to AC. Also the incoming volts on chassis battery by about 2500RPM.
One more thing, since a while my "emergeny start" failed. While i use the toggle switch in the glovebox, i can hear clearly the solenoid making "clack", but without any power to the cahssis battery. Had to use jump-start cables...😠

[bobmiller1]

Voltage maybe fine, but amperage output to the batteries may be excessive...I would measure both to be sure.

[Roquefort]

Will do!!!
Noted with Thks👍🏻

[Roquefort]

Hi, Marcus again!
I know the "must-be" Voltage, but how about Amps...?
Any idea about this?

[Boom Sounds]

Hi all,

Does anyone know what the loading capacity is of the stock runners for the battery tray? I want to replace the lower section with steel, but don't want to replace the runners. I am not adding any batteries, only replacing the floor of the tray (due to rust). Also, I'll weigh it, but do you think I have enough headroom to add the steel?

many thanks
Nick

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Boom Sounds

Hi all,

Does anyone know what the loading capacity is of the stock runners for the battery tray? I want to replace the lower section with steel, but don't want to replace the runners. I am not adding any batteries, only replacing the floor of the tray (due to rust). Also, I'll weigh it, but do you think I have enough headroom to add the steel?

many thanks
Nick

Nick, the lower section was steel originally. You should have no issues using 1/8" thick steel plate on the bottom.

Brad

[Boom Sounds]

I'm going for 2mm, with two supports below. I think it should be more than adequate. I'll fully seal it inside and out and will post some pictures in due course. All the best Nick