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Old 05-12-2022, 11:22 AM   #41
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1989 29' Airstream 290
Hannover , Germany
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 79
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Welcome

Welcome to the new member of the German Classic MoHo community! Stefan picked up today the 310 from the harbour and drove along my hometown. Time for a short meeting during servicing. Peter thank you for the nice hand-made wooden sign.

My 290 is since 13-Dec-21 in the repair shop. They changed the ignition distributor and cables and replaced the complete vacuum system. Everything went well until the battery solenoid (on the rear of the battery drawer) broke mechanically. Reading Nicks posts, seems the Surepower 1315-200 is a good replacement.
Maybe linked to that the rear of the fuse modul overheated. A lot of unexpected work (pictures of the solenoid and fuse module are upside down).

Regards,

Mario
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Old 05-12-2022, 03:32 PM   #42
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1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
Austin , Texas
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Originally Posted by AirStreamMar View Post
Welcome to the new member of the German Classic MoHo community! Stefan picked up today the 310 from the harbour and drove along my hometown. Time for a short meeting during servicing. Peter thank you for the nice hand-made wooden sign.

.....
Regards,

Mario

Hi Mario,

Glad to see that the guys finally were able to pick up the 310 in Bremerhaven. It was stuck at the Galveston port for over 2 month. You are very welcome for the wooden Airstream Rally sign. I trust that all the items I ordered for you made it as well?
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Old 05-13-2022, 07:46 AM   #43
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1989 29' Airstream 290
Hannover , Germany
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Battery Solenoid Replacement

Hello,

My main battery solenoid broke mechanically, obviously got old and when moving the battery drawer in and out the solenoid poles carry the weight of the cables.
Part number is not readable - anyone knows a good replacement?

PS to Peter: the 310 of Stefan was opened on is way and a lot of valuable things, mainly tools were stolen. Luckily most of my parts arrived.

Cheers,
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Old 05-14-2022, 01:25 AM   #44
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1991 25' Airstream 250
Oxford , Oxfordshire
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Originally Posted by AirStreamMar View Post
Hello,

My main battery solenoid broke mechanically, obviously got old and when moving the battery drawer in and out the solenoid poles carry the weight of the cables.
Part number is not readable - anyone knows a good replacement?

PS to Peter: the 310 of Stefan was opened on is way and a lot of valuable things, mainly tools were stolen. Luckily most of my parts arrived.

Cheers,
I think the stock brand was Cole Hersee https://bobsguides.com/cole-hersee-solenoid.html
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Old 05-14-2022, 05:58 AM   #45
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1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
Austin , Texas
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Originally Posted by AirStreamMar View Post
..
Maybe linked to that the rear of the fuse modul overheated. A lot of unexpected work (pictures of the solenoid and fuse module are upside down).

Regards,

Mario

Mario, one of the biggest "factory" problems was the overloading of the GM fuse panel by Airstream (airbag compressor as an example) Then people added circuits to make it borderline dangerous. One of the best improvements is the use of inexpensive relays for all of the power hungry circuits, like Headlights, Airbag compressor, fans and heater controls etc. Just use the fuse panel circuits as the trigger signal and wire a more direct power supply to the relays. Most backs of fuse panels I have seen on these rigs looked similar to yours.
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Old 05-17-2022, 08:22 AM   #46
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1989 29' Airstream 290
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Hot Ground Wire

Nick and Peter,

Thank you for the suggestions. I found locally a battery solenoid switch which could handle 200A and it works fine (Stinger SGP32). Job done and it's clicking and switchng as it supposed to do.
Peter, I will follow your suggestion to unload the fuse block, especially for high load consuming appliances like the compressor etc. Will order parts the coming days.

Otherwise we are almost done. Almost... one thing worries us: the ground cable next to the rear of the fuse block (picture) is getting super hot, isolation melted and strings of the cable as well(!). The cable goes into the wiring harness and then to the engine. But where it's unclear. Also why a ground cable goes thru the harness, ground could be picked up anywhere closer to where it's needed. Very strange, also the Chevy wiring diagram does not give an answer.
Any idea???

The beast needs to run as on 27-May weekend we have an Airstream meeting, organized by SplitWindow (awaiting 8(!) of us).

Thank you and have a great day.
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Old 05-17-2022, 02:43 PM   #47
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1991 25' Airstream 250
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Originally Posted by AirStreamMar View Post
Nick and Peter,

Thank you for the suggestions. I found locally a battery solenoid switch which could handle 200A and it works fine (Stinger SGP32). Job done and it's clicking and switchng as it supposed to do.
Peter, I will follow your suggestion to unload the fuse block, especially for high load consuming appliances like the compressor etc. Will order parts the coming days.

Otherwise we are almost done. Almost... one thing worries us: the ground cable next to the rear of the fuse block (picture) is getting super hot, isolation melted and strings of the cable as well(!). The cable goes into the wiring harness and then to the engine. But where it's unclear. Also why a ground cable goes thru the harness, ground could be picked up anywhere closer to where it's needed. Very strange, also the Chevy wiring diagram does not give an answer.
Any idea???

The beast needs to run as on 27-May weekend we have an Airstream meeting, organized by SplitWindow (awaiting 8(!) of us).

Thank you and have a great day.
Is it going to the SurePower blue finned isolator in your engine bay?
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Old 05-17-2022, 02:59 PM   #48
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Is it going to the SurePower blue finned isolator in your engine bay?

Nick, the isolator does not have a Ground terminal, Its grounded by the mounting screws. I would read voltage and resistance on that wire, connected and disconnected. Then I would trace it to its origin. I may just need a much heavier gauge wire.
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Old 05-19-2022, 06:27 AM   #49
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1984 27' Airstream 270
West Chester , Ohio
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It looks like the black wire you circled are 2 wires connected by being twisted together. They were destined to unravel over time and is not an appropriate connection. I’ve found that even butt connectors have failed in my primary power/grounding connections. Also, the eye terminal gauge may be too thin. This is likely causing your heat issue (ask me how I know)….Check that there is no unusual voltages, and recommend the following:

Cut back to intact wire, replace with same/thicker stranded wire and solder all the connections. I’ve found the shrink wrapped connections with solder band works well, hit it with a heat gun and done
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