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01-10-2011, 12:19 PM
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#1
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2 Rivet Member
1982 28' Airstream 280
Venice
, California
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 73
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AS280 - Front (driver) sliding window latch
The latches that allow you to open and close the sliding windows in the driver and passenger area have been a constant problem for me. One is now broken and I don't know where to turn for a replacement. I'm even considering removing it altogether and simply placing a small knob through the tiny hole that's drilled in the vertical center of the rear sliding panel. I know it won't latch, but these latches don't really secure the windows. For that I use those tiny channel locks.
A quick background:
My first experience was a few years ago when I noticed that the window latch was rattling. So I did what any *sensible* person would do and tightened the screws. Fast forward to my next road trip. A few hours into it the window suddenly, and without any warning, exploded. Seriously, it was like a gunshot. Apparently, the extra tension those screws applied to the curved window was enough to cause it to vibrate at speed until it hit a resonant frequency and shattered into a million bits.
When I got back, I replaced the window ($$) and all was well. Until a few months ago when a vandal shot out the window because he didn't like my "tin can" (seriously. that was on the note he left) parked on his street (hrrmph). The new window is in place, but it appears the tiny screws that hold the latch onto the plate are stripped. Every time I try to reattach it, it falls off. See pics below.
I'm glad to replace this with a new one, but I suspect such a thing does not exist. Any suggestions?
/dalefox
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10-03-2011, 09:22 PM
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#2
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Rivet Master
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Saint Petersburg
, Florida
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 1,702
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Classic Motorhome Window Latches
Quote:
Originally Posted by dalefox
The latches that allow you to open and close the sliding windows in the driver and passenger area have been a constant problem for me. One is now broken and I don't know where to turn for a replacement. I'm even considering removing it altogether and simply placing a small knob through the tiny hole that's drilled in the vertical center of the rear sliding panel. I know it won't latch, but these latches don't really secure the windows. For that I use those tiny channel locks.
A quick background:
My first experience was a few years ago when I noticed that the window latch was rattling. So I did what any *sensible* person would do and tightened the screws. Fast forward to my next road trip. A few hours into it the window suddenly, and without any warning, exploded. Seriously, it was like a gunshot. Apparently, the extra tension those screws applied to the curved window was enough to cause it to vibrate at speed until it hit a resonant frequency and shattered into a million bits.
When I got back, I replaced the window ($$) and all was well. Until a few months ago when a vandal shot out the window because he didn't like my "tin can" (seriously. that was on the note he left) parked on his street (hrrmph). The new window is in place, but it appears the tiny screws that hold the latch onto the plate are stripped. Every time I try to reattach it, it falls off. See pics below.
I'm glad to replace this with a new one, but I suspect such a thing does not exist. Any suggestions?
/dalefox
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Hi,
Were you ever successful in replacing your window latches? Some of mine work, some don't, some are missing the part that swings upwards to release the catch on the window. Any suggestions on replacement part would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Derek
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10-03-2011, 09:23 PM
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#3
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazeevw
Hi,
Were you ever successful in replacing your window latches? Some of mine work, some don't, some are missing the part that swings upwards to release the catch on the window. Any suggestions on replacement part would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks, Derek
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Those window latches are still available.
Andy
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10-03-2011, 09:48 PM
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#4
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
1984 31' Airstream310
Ajo
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,649
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I'd be more interested if they ever caught the slimball that shot out the window.
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11-28-2011, 09:52 PM
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#5
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3 Rivet Member
1976 28' Argosy 28
Dallas
, Texas
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 120
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
Those window latches are still available.
Andy
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How much? I need some.
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11-28-2011, 10:14 PM
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#6
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Rivet Master
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch
, California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,695
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MrJ,
PM Andy, and he will get you a quote.
__________________
My name is Steve.... and I am an Alumaholic!
Working in my Garage is like playing TETRIS with Tools!
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12-18-2011, 08:53 AM
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#7
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Rivet Master
2023 30' Globetrotter
Pleasanton
, California
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,905
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Is it still possible to buy the "base plate" as I will call it? This would be the plate that is bonded / riveted or otherwise attached to the glass itself. I have one latch on my moho where the three screws that attach the latch mechanism to the base plate have been stripped. The best option for repair that I see is to replace rather than repair. I have found the new latches for sale, but it does not seem as though the base plate is for sale or maybe not even replaceable?
Has anyone actually done a complete replacement of the base plate?
Andy: if you sell the base plate, I was not able to find it at Inland's website...I looked.
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12-18-2011, 09:51 AM
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#8
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Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
Corona
, California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WineStream
Is it still possible to buy the "base plate" as I will call it? This would be the plate that is bonded / riveted or otherwise attached to the glass itself. I have one latch on my moho where the three screws that attach the latch mechanism to the base plate have been stripped. The best option for repair that I see is to replace rather than repair. I have found the new latches for sale, but it does not seem as though the base plate is for sale or maybe not even replaceable?
Has anyone actually done a complete replacement of the base plate?
Andy: if you sell the base plate, I was not able to find it at Inland's website...I looked.
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The base plate is riveted to the windows.
I am not at the office to see if we still might have some.
Our web site is a "sale" list only.
Andy
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12-18-2011, 10:03 AM
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#9
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
1984 31' Airstream310
Ajo
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,649
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Talk about a badly-designed piece of junk!
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12-18-2011, 10:27 AM
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#10
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Rivet Master
1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch
, California
Join Date: Mar 2010
Posts: 4,695
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I would just put a helicoil in the thread, or resize it up th a bigger screw.
I have my 2 latches on the bench, as neither worked well.
They would not lock, or then not unlock, and whscraped along the fixed glass when you slid them... horrible.
I have one fixed and will do a story on them once I have them finished and functional...
__________________
My name is Steve.... and I am an Alumaholic!
Working in my Garage is like playing TETRIS with Tools!
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12-18-2011, 06:37 PM
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#11
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Rivet Master
2023 30' Globetrotter
Pleasanton
, California
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In
The base plate is riveted to the windows.
I am not at the office to see if we still might have some.
Our web site is a "sale" list only.
Andy
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I saw the rivet...I was hoping a replacement might be nice enough to have a double countersunk passage with a carriage bolt and a thin nut. I can't wait to rivet something into glass!
If it's still possible to order them, I'd be interested. The moho is in the barn for the winter, so no hurry.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair
I would just put a helicoil in the thread, or resize it up th a bigger screw.
I have my 2 latches on the bench, as neither worked well.
They would not lock, or then not unlock, and whscraped along the fixed glass when you slid them... horrible.
I have one fixed and will do a story on them once I have them finished and functional...
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Perhaps they changed things in later years. The three screws that hold my latch to the base plate are about 1/8" dia. at best and they only go about that deep into the base plate too before it turns in to glass. No chance to drill and heli-coil there. I thought of a bigger screw as well, but same problem...no chance to drill a new hole without hitting glass and then still no chance to run a tap in there and cut sufficient threads.
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12-23-2011, 05:08 PM
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#12
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Rivet Master
Currently Looking...
1984 31' Airstream310
Ajo
, Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,649
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Hmm, AS might have thought better of the thru-glass fittings. In mine, they are glued with a black mastic with no glass holes. They are still junk, but the black tape and mastic would be a better retro-fit.
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12-23-2011, 07:24 PM
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#13
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Rivet Master
2023 30' Globetrotter
Pleasanton
, California
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,905
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I drilled out the rivet on mine today (base plate). I think I can get it back together with a button head cap screw and a nut. I thought of using a 3/16" pop rivet, but I'd be afraid to crack the glass when making the shaft pop off the rivet.
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01-05-2012, 06:41 PM
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#14
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Rivet Master
2023 30' Globetrotter
Pleasanton
, California
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,905
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my fix
I've managed to fix my window latch. I thought I would post some pictures to detail what I did. I ended up with the fix I planned in the previous post as well as incorporated some suggestions from previously posted ideas in the thread. I removed everything down to bare glass. This included removing the plate that is riveted and bonded to the glass. While the plate was off, I cleaned off all of the goo and also re-drilled and tapped the three threaded holes to attach the latch. This was possible since I removed the entire plate from the glass. I drilled and tapped for 4mm threaded holes just because that's what was available to me. It was slightly larger than the holes that were stripped out.
Descriptions in order of attached photos:
1. The base plate re-attached to the glass. Note the button head socket cap screw. Low protrusion...no more than the rivet that was there before. This is the exterior side of the window.
2. View from the opposite side as 1. I installed a standard nut and ground-down the bolt and nut until there was just enough nut left that it could be grabbed with a wrench for loosening or tightening later.
3. The latch itself. Because the ground-down nut still protrudes above the surface of the glass (unlike the original rivet), I needed to make a relief hole (big one in the middle) in the latch to accommodate the nut. This does not interfere with latch operation.
4. The latch assembly sitting on the base plate without attaching screws. Note the nut in the clearance hole.
5. Finally, the three new 4mm screws to attach the latch to the base plate. I had the option of using socket head screws or flat blade. The socket ones would have used something like a 3mm wrench, which in my book spells stripped-out after exposure to the elements. So, I went with the flat blade screws.
I will be installing the window back into the moho this weekend which will complete my removal, reconditioning, and weatherstrip replacement on all windows in my moho! Yea!
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09-13-2018, 08:05 PM
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#15
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4 Rivet Member
1984 27' Airstream 270
West Chester
, Ohio
Join Date: Jun 2018
Posts: 498
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latch repair
I see how the mounting for each side of the latch mechanism was repaired. Im wondering how one would repair/replace the sliding glass-side of the mechanism. On mine, the internal mechanism between the rocker piece and the latch is broken and I can't find a replacement anywhere
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01-11-2022, 05:29 AM
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#16
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Airstream Driver
1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,224
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reviving an old thread to offer a way to fix the most common problem with the plastic slider.
They typically break at 2 points, the locking tab (pic1) and the lever slot.(pic2)
I used automotive bondo to fill both spaces to rebuilt the missing plastic parts. Bondo can can be shaved easily before it cures, which does not show in the fill to recreate the locking tab.
__________________
1994 30' Excella Front Kitchen Trailer
1990 25' Excella Travel trailer
1992 350LE Classic Touring Coach
AIR #13
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01-14-2022, 01:42 AM
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#17
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2 Rivet Member
1989 29' Airstream 290
Hannover
, Germany
Join Date: Aug 2020
Posts: 79
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Hi Peter,
Excellent idea. As I have the same issue with my plastic parts I will try the same. Bondo is not available in Europe but we have similar stuff (e.g. Nigrin Filler). Will post my results when done.
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