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Old 08-04-2018, 11:35 PM   #21
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1987 32.5' Airstream 325
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The floor needed a little more than I thought....Click image for larger version

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Old 08-07-2018, 09:17 AM   #22
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On the subject of towing a tag, what happens if you just remove the wheels from the tag axle?

Should gain you plenty of clearance, no weight on the tag for sure

I wouldn't hesitate to do that on a 325, not sure if the load limit on the main rear axle is an issue for a 345 or 370 though
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Old 08-07-2018, 02:16 PM   #23
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LOL...,let me know how that works out for you.....are you kidding ????
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Old 08-07-2018, 03:49 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobmiller1 View Post
LOL...,let me know how that works out for you.....are you kidding ????
Only Half kidding, I wouldn't dream of trying that on a 370
The 310 and 325 are pretty close in most ways, and the 310 does just fine with no tag at all.
From what I understand this makes the 325 tag borderline optional, and if my options were ruin the tag axle by overloading it, or take the wheels off and keep it up off the road, I'd consider trying it if you were just gonna limp down the road at 30mph
My old man used to design air ride suspensions for heavy duty trucks, most of the tag axles were added more to meet codes for wheel #s or wheelbase length than for any legitimate engineering reason.

This is 100% speculation, as I've only looked at a tag axle in person once, and I'm curious why others think it would fail.

Sorry to hijack the thread, the rest of the discussion has moved on from this.
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Old 08-08-2018, 02:36 AM   #25
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
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Tag Tow Hitch

Sorting a game plan....
#1 Well good thinking regarding removing tag wheels!
#2 Being towed using a Hitch, I'd plan on once front is in the air, remove front wheels also so tow driver can reduce front hight, less likely to scrape its ars!
Remove prop shaft spicer from rear Dif, maybe wire up on to undercarrage. Then put a note on windscreen not to put in gear
#3 keep compressor on full time during tow, disconect levelling valves rods from tag and raise them to the max lift position.
#4 Dump all rear tank water n weight! Wheels can go forward on floor.

Yes you are also right as far as I can tell regarding the distance from bumper to mid way between Drive wheels and Tag wheels = 3.5 m? max overhang distance for Transport Regulations Code..

But the other hairy bit is all that overhang past the Drive Axle to rear bumper from 325 and up were designed for support from that Tag. So dont bend it!
Anyway plan is feeling better .
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Old 08-08-2018, 07:22 AM   #26
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Keep in mind my comments about the tag were just speculation!! Be careful!!

Don't forget the electric step (if yours works)
I had to crawl under and unplug the step while it was retracted, otherwise I couldn't figure out how to get the step up, while I was outside the airstream, without leaving the ignition on
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Old 08-13-2018, 07:03 AM   #27
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From 24ga galvanized to 18ga painted, glued down, then glued techsheild, with screws to frame. Now a layer of 3/8 to level with the kitchen floor and then waterproof laminate...Click image for larger version

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Old 08-13-2018, 10:04 PM   #28
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Today, a layer of fiberglass resin to level it a bit, then a layer of 3/8 to build up to the height of the kitchen floor (glued down oak)...Click image for larger version

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Old 08-16-2018, 09:55 PM   #29
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As long as I’m tearing stuff down, might as well lower the toilet now before the finish floor goes in.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-16-2018, 10:54 PM   #30
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Awesome progress!
Why were these toilets raised up start with?
I assumed it was to gain more black tank space underneath, but that doesn't seem to be the case with yours

Are those your heater ducts down there?
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Old 08-17-2018, 06:17 AM   #31
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There are two ducts under the toilet, but the PO abandoned the heater behind it, and it so I’ll remove them. Did this in the 325 and put in a low profile toilet, which is infinitely better.
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Old 08-17-2018, 11:07 AM   #32
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So here’s the lowering fix if anyone cares. I used a 45 closet flange with a steel reinforced rubber coupling (as the factory did). Cut out the top ABS 45 and stub (trimmed to fit), and wound up with a flange height of 7.5” versus 10.5” which with a low profile toilet results in a 16” seat height which is comparable to a house.Click image for larger version

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Old 08-17-2018, 01:22 PM   #33
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Good to know, thanks
I feel like I need a ladder to use the factory toilet
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Old 08-17-2018, 05:10 PM   #34
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Are you vertically challenged ???
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:38 PM   #35
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Nope, just prefer my toilets to be consistent height. Keeps my butt more comfortable when it matters. Either the guy who designed these was some sort of freak of nature with a 38” inseam and under 6’ tall (ceiling height of these is not for the tall guys), or really bad at kinesiology....
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:39 PM   #36
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So, if not for this pesky ‘job’ I’d be further along... but here’s the important stuff minus a few screws. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-17-2018, 07:43 PM   #37
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So, you’re saying ‘bill, the flange should be on top of the finished floor!’ Which is absolutely true for residential, but I want a low rider toilet and am using laminate so I’ll cut it in to the base to maximize my lowering ...yes I like my stuff low...
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:44 PM   #38
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:48 PM   #39
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Final note on this task. In case the lack of skill was not apparent from the 30” seat height, the carpet and mdf in a ‘wet’ location should seal the deal there...
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Old 08-24-2018, 04:20 PM   #40
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Finished floor just about complete this week, remaking the bed today. New toilet arrived so will finish these tasks over the weekend. Click image for larger version

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