Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-18-2011, 08:56 PM   #1
Rivet Master
 
Smartstream's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,916
A bit disappointed - flooring

We thought we would take the plunge and bought some cork flooring. Yesterday I ripped out the old carpeting and pad and the boss got the heavy stuff with the vacuum. Today I went out to finish cleaning up. Starting at the rear I started pulling all the staples and cleaning up the remains. I think for every ounce of caulking they used they threw another ounce on the floor. Then all the aluminum chips from drilling rivet holes was ground into the caulking. Every pop rivet shank that was "popped" was on the floor and then a few electrical connectors and a cigarette butt was added. After all this stuff was ground into the caulking then the carpet was put down to hide it all. I have to admit as I got to the galley things started to lighten up a bit and the front of the coach was pretty clean.

Maybe I'm expecting too much but I wouldn't expect that much trash in the cheapest SOB. I definitely expect better from a high end coach like an Airstream. Also I found a nice hatch cut in the plywood over the fuel tank. The interesting thing is the aluminum sheet under the plywood wasn't cut. Obviously the hatch doesn't help much without the hole in the aluminum. The biggest problem is to cut the aluminum with a saber saw or something similar, you are blindly cutting the top of the tank, fuel lines, vents and wiring. I suppose if you got a big enough hole started you could attack it with tin snips but you are still drilling/cutting into the top of the tank.

I'm sorry about rambling on so long but I just needed to vent.

Anyway tomorrow I get to try to figure how to assemble these snap together floor pieces around all the obstacles. Hopefully it'll be a better day tomorrow.

Cheers, Dan
Smartstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2011, 10:12 PM   #2
Rivet Master
 
desertair27's Avatar
 
1957 22' Caravanner
1960 26' Overlander
1963 24' Tradewind
El Paso , Texas
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 945
Images: 32
Just think how awesome your trailer will look once that nice cork flooring is down.I just went throught he same thing in my trailer.I have the flooring down just need to add trim and closet flange on toilet.What kind of flooring and trim did you get.I went with the floating floor and they recommend a 1/2" edge gap for expansion.I figure in such a small area such as a trailer 1/4" should be plenty.
Good luck.
desertair27 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-18-2011, 10:30 PM   #3
Rivet Master
 
ROBERTSUNRUS's Avatar

 
2005 25' Safari
Salem , Oregon
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 8,094
Images: 18
Blog Entries: 55
Quote:
Originally Posted by desertair27 View Post
Just think how awesome your Motorhome will look once that nice cork flooring is down.I just went through he same thing in my trailer.I have the flooring down just need to add trim and closet flange on toilet.What kind of flooring and trim did you get.I went with the floating floor and they recommend a 1/2" edge gap for expansion.I figure in such a small area such as a trailer 1/4" should be plenty.
Good luck.
Hi, Dan. I found a paper coffee cup, a piece of plastic pipe, and some cut off pieces of wire besides the usual shavings and rivet pins. I think it is a requirement for Airstream to leave about five pounds of trash in each unit, therefore saving five pounds of trash per unit times units produced per year = $$$$$$$$ saved on their trash bill.
__________________
Bob 2005 Safari 25-B
"Le Petit Chateau Argent" Small Silver Castle
2000 Navigator / 2014 F-150 Eco-Boost / Equal-i-zer / P-3
YAMAHA 2400 / AIR #12144
ROBERTSUNRUS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2011, 12:49 AM   #4
Rivet Master
 
Smartstream's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,916
Quote:
Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, Dan. I found a paper coffee cup, a piece of plastic pipe, and some cut off pieces of wire besides the usual shavings and rivet pins. I think it is a requirement for Airstream to leave about five pounds of trash in each unit, therefore saving five pounds of trash per unit times units produced per year = $$$$$$$$ saved on their trash bill.
I understand a bit of construction trash but I guess you have to order a vinyl or some type of hard floor to get them to clean up a little. I don't claim to be the tidiest guy around but I do take pride in my work and I would be embarrassed to send a product out the door with that much crap swept under the carpet. You know a little craft paper on the floor makes clean up pretty easy. I don't know, maybe it's just me.

Cheers, Dan
Smartstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2011, 12:59 AM   #5
Rivet Master
 
Smartstream's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,916
Quote:
Originally Posted by desertair27 View Post
Just think how awesome your trailer will look once that nice cork flooring is down.I just went throught he same thing in my trailer.I have the flooring down just need to add trim and closet flange on toilet.What kind of flooring and trim did you get.I went with the floating floor and they recommend a 1/2" edge gap for expansion.I figure in such a small area such as a trailer 1/4" should be plenty.
Good luck.
I went with the floating floor. I'm going with a small gap also, like you say it's a pretty small area. I think I will probably make my own moldings. I've got some oak left over from other projects and I thought a lot of the stuff being sold was out of proportion size wise for the small areas I'm working in.

Cheers, Dan
Smartstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2011, 05:26 AM   #6
CLOUDSPLITTER "Tahawus"
 
ROBERT CROSS's Avatar

 
2003 25' Classic
Zanadude Nebula , Milky Way
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 17,157
Images: 1

After eight years I just found a working Bic lighter and a candy wrapper under the rug next to the water heater in my street side rear storage compartment. Hozanna !!!
__________________
Obrigado, é hora de descansar.

Tahawus
🌤
ROBERT CROSS is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2011, 06:45 AM   #7
Rivet Master
 
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Jamestown , Kentucky
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 577
Images: 13
typical for many plants. Very little respect for the potential customer and their satisfaction.

Makes One wonder.

Worker Attitude ? Sucks at times
Just re do the way you want it done and enjoy
John H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2011, 09:49 AM   #8
3 Rivet Member
 
AirRowan's Avatar
 
1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Key West , Florida
Join Date: Jun 2010
Posts: 167

check this link out and let us know how it works/ looks.
AirRowan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-19-2011, 10:04 PM   #9
Rivet Master
 
Smartstream's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,916
Quote:
Originally Posted by AirRowan View Post

check this link out and let us know how it works/ looks.
I have watched that several times and they make it look so easy. I've posted a few pics to show my concerns.

The first is fabricating some molding around the battery box hatch especially between the hatch and entry step well.

Next is the area under the bath door and rear of the bed. I understand I have to either start at the front left corner or the right rear corner to snap the floor together. Trying to slide it under the door and edge of the bunk and still be able to lift and snap together might be fun.

If I start at the right rear I can slide the starting edge under the refer but then I have to deal with the angled area under the toe kick of the galley sink cabinet.

I also have two pedestal mounted barrel chairs opposite the couch. If I lay the floor and then bolt these down I no longer have a floating floor. If I cut out the floor around the pedestals then I have to fabricate molding around each pedestal base. Just more fun to think about.

Cheers, Dan
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3233.jpg
Views:	156
Size:	354.5 KB
ID:	132878   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3235.jpg
Views:	147
Size:	244.3 KB
ID:	132879  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3234.jpg
Views:	155
Size:	323.3 KB
ID:	132880   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3237.jpg
Views:	187
Size:	307.7 KB
ID:	132881  

Smartstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 07:39 AM   #10
Rivet Master
 
1989 34.5' Airstream 345
Jamestown , Kentucky
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 577
Images: 13
well Dan
Laying the flooring in the 345 was quite a project.
But after getting Two bids of over 4,000 each.
I purchased the Miter saw I always wanted a went to work.
After Two weeks of removing the carpet, old padding, tac strips, original and new installed 10 years ago. tacks, staples, trash, then applying Two coats of primmer, sealer I decided the next time. I would be happy to write the check for 4,400. HaHaHa. But now I know what is under there and it is the way I wanted it done.
and I have a free Miter saw for other project s I am sure will evolve over time.

Looks Like you are doing a great Job Dan
Good Luck
John H. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 08:28 AM   #11
Rivet Master
 
dadstoy's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Redwood City , California
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Smartstream

I have watched that several times and they make it look so easy. I've posted a few pics to show my concerns.

The first is fabricating some molding around the battery box hatch especially between the hatch and entry step well.

Next is the area under the bath door and rear of the bed. I understand I have to either start at the front left corner or the right rear corner to snap the floor together. Trying to slide it under the door and edge of the bunk and still be able to lift and snap together might be fun.

If I start at the right rear I can slide the starting edge under the refer but then I have to deal with the angled area under the toe kick of the galley sink cabinet.

I also have two pedestal mounted barrel chairs opposite the couch. If I lay the floor and then bolt these down I no longer have a floating floor. If I cut out the floor around the pedestals then I have to fabricate molding around each pedestal base. Just more fun to think about.

Cheers, Dan
Hi Dan,

I have the exact same layout. Im very interested in your progress.

Dean
__________________
"A nation that isn't broken but simply unfinished" -
Amanda Gorman
dadstoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-22-2011, 11:13 PM   #12
Rivet Master
 
Smartstream's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,916
Quote:
Originally Posted by John Haggard View Post
well Dan
Laying the flooring in the 345 was quite a project.
But after getting Two bids of over 4,000 each.
I purchased the Miter saw I always wanted a went to work.
After Two weeks of removing the carpet, old padding, tac strips, original and new installed 10 years ago. tacks, staples, trash, then applying Two coats of primmer, sealer I decided the next time. I would be happy to write the check for 4,400. HaHaHa. But now I know what is under there and it is the way I wanted it done.
and I have a free Miter saw for other project s I am sure will evolve over time.

Looks Like you are doing a great Job Dan
Good Luck
Thanks for the vote of confidence John. I guess I'm a little too "frugal" to pop for four grand so I'll just have to muddle through. To make things worse I already have a miter saw so I can't even justify some new toys.

Anyway I started in the bath. While I think about it some flooring systems start on the left side and work to the right and across the room, others start on the right and work left. The system I have works right to left so I started passenger side in the rear. The first pic is the first piece that I cut. I measured and re-measured and checked and rechecked and made way too many trips in and out to the saw. The flange at the base of the toilet and sink cabinet didn't sit flat so I added several screws to try to hold it down. Then I had to route a relief on the bottom of the cork so it would sit flat on the floor. After way too much time and effort and feeling pretty good about the fit I realized I cut the wrong end and had no tongue to engage the next piece. After this and discovering how out of square everything in this coach is, I started again and got one row up to the battery box to show for the days work.

The next day with a fresh attitude I did a little better and got the back done up to the galley and the front is in except the last row in front of the galley and couch. A much better day

Dean if you get into this on you coach I did have to change the battery box hatch. First the hinge is set too low and would interfere with the molding around the hatch. I decided to remove the hinge and just make it a lift out hatch. Probably should have done this long ago as it's really a pain trying to hold the hatch while you are working on the batteries. The hatches in the sole in my boat just sit there and have been fine for years. I also decided to build a new hatch a little thicker. This one has always felt a little soft when you step on it and now it sits almost 1/4" lower than the floor molding. Probably easier to start new then rip the parquet out and try to fit the cork in.

Also starting in the bath and forward to the cockpit step, I snapped a chalk line down the middle and worked from it. I was concerned starting from the cabinet opposite the couch and meeting up with my center row, everything being so square. Anyway I finished the center row and then worked back wards to the cabinet. The guy at the floor supply told me I couldn't do that but I did and it was fairly easy. With the right side done I went back and finished the bath and came forward to the galley. Another thing I learned is with some manufacturers you snap in the piece along it's length and then tap it lengthwise to make up the end joint. The better quality stuff you line up the end joint, snap in the side and just drop it in place. You don't have drive in the end joints.

The other issue I had was the barrel chair pedestals. After much thought I ordered "spider bases" from Discount Van & Truck. I was concerned about having loose furniture flying around so I took a 5/8" bolt from the pedestal mount and drilled and tapped a 3/8" hole down the center. Then I shaved the head down to about 1/8" and drew it down in the plywood sub floor until it was flush with the surface. I drilled a 7/8" hole in the cork and made a filler plug. I can remove the plug, screw in an eye bolt and mount another to the bottom of the chair base and when on the road I can use a turnbuckle to secure the chairs to the floor. When I stop for the night, remove the turnbuckle, unscrew the eye bolt and drop the plug in the hole and I have a free standing chair and a smooth, floating floor. Obviously I did this twice for two chairs.

Tomorrow I should be able to finish the floor and start on the hold down edge molding. I hope all this dribble make sense to anyone who is thinking about a new floor.

Cheers, Dan
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3263.jpg
Views:	162
Size:	230.4 KB
ID:	133063   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3262.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	302.1 KB
ID:	133064  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3265.jpg
Views:	139
Size:	344.9 KB
ID:	133065   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3266.jpg
Views:	150
Size:	384.9 KB
ID:	133066  

Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3267.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	377.8 KB
ID:	133067   Click image for larger version

Name:	DSCN3264.jpg
Views:	150
Size:	403.5 KB
ID:	133068  

Smartstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-23-2011, 12:38 AM   #13
Rivet Master
 
dadstoy's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Redwood City , California
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,010
That looks really nice Dan. Post some Picts of your chair bolt downs when you can! I agree with you on the battery hatch. It is a real pain yo hold open and work on the batts with only two hands.
__________________
"A nation that isn't broken but simply unfinished" -
Amanda Gorman
dadstoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2011, 10:26 AM   #14
Rivet Master
 
Mike Leary's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
1984 31' Airstream310
Ajo , Arizona
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 7,649
Images: 4
Quote:
Originally Posted by dadstoy View Post
That looks really nice Dan. Post some Picts of your chair bolt downs when you can! I agree with you on the battery hatch. It is a real pain yo hold open and work on the batts with only two hands.
I have a special bungee cord to hold the hatch open attached to the chair. Tacky, but it works.
Mike Leary is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2011, 10:55 AM   #15
Rivet Master
 
dadstoy's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Redwood City , California
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 2,010
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Leary

I have a special bungee cord to hold the hatch open attached to the chair. Tacky, but it works.
That's exactly what I do as well!
__________________
"A nation that isn't broken but simply unfinished" -
Amanda Gorman
dadstoy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2011, 11:37 AM   #16
Site Team
 
Aage's Avatar
 
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
Images: 25
Looks like it was a real fussy job, Dan, but the end result is beautiful.

How much of an allowance did you leave around the edges for the freeze/hot cycle?

Thanks very much for the good clear photos. If you have any others, please post them too, if you have the time.
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.”
...John Wayne...........................
Aage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2011, 01:39 AM   #17
Rivet Master
 
Smartstream's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,916
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage View Post
Looks like it was a real fussy job, Dan, but the end result is beautiful.

How much of an allowance did you leave around the edges for the freeze/hot cycle?

Thanks very much for the good clear photos. If you have any others, please post them too, if you have the time.
Thanks for the kind words. It is a fussy job and I have a real problem with this kind of stuff because I'm a machinist by trade and the lack of precision drives me nuts. The distance between the bunks grows about 1/4" from the back to the middle and then narrows about 1/8" at the front end. If t was even it would be very easy to cut the pieces on the table saw but when they taper so much you wind up doing it free hand with a saber saw or band saw. It just takes so much longer. Maybe I'm just being too fussy but what can I say? Anyway to answer your question I "tried" to keep the gap at 1/4". I wasn't as concerned widthwise because the distance is so small. Lengthwise I tried to error on the plus side because the the growth if any would be much greater.

I talked to a flooring shop in town and they suggested I put a coat of acrylic polyurethane on after I finish the floor. I have prefinished cork but he said for moisture around the bath the extra coat would give it a commercial floor rating. Guess what I did today? I haven't put the moldings in yet as I figured it would be better to coat under the molding. I'll take some pics tomorrow after the urethane sets up a bit. I got to spend the afternoon mounting tires while the floor dried. Tomorrow the new a/c compressor and receiver/drier goes in and maybe I can make some cold air.

Cheers, Dan
Smartstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2011, 07:32 AM   #18
Site Team
 
Aage's Avatar
 
1974 31' Sovereign
Ottawa , ON
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 11,219
Images: 25
Good luck with the AC work, should be cool having that going, huh?

We are thinking of putting in the Allure TrafficMaster flooring. We used it in a kitchen here at home and it stands up to anything but bullets. Well, I'm just guessing about the bullets, of course.

Our TT has a very similar floor plan to your moho, and the length-wise "grow" in winter of the new flooring has me worried. The TT is a rear bath, and has the mid sleeping area, then kitchen then lounge up front.

I was considering putting a decent-sized gap at the door between the galley and the sleeping area, with a screwed-down track holding a "T" or "mushroom cap" style there. I would leave about a ¼" gap on either side of the track.

To my mind, this would lessen the stress the length of the floor would undergo, and maybe protect it from buckling.

I hate doing jobs twice, and this is the only way it would seem to be possible to not force the expansion to travel the entire ~29' of the interior.

Any thoughts?
__________________
“Courage is being scared to death, but saddling up anyway.”
...John Wayne...........................
Aage is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2011, 12:22 AM   #19
Rivet Master
 
Smartstream's Avatar

 
1982 28' Airstream 280
Port Angeles , Washington
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,916
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aage View Post
Good luck with the AC work, should be cool having that going, huh?

We are thinking of putting in the Allure TrafficMaster flooring. We used it in a kitchen here at home and it stands up to anything but bullets. Well, I'm just guessing about the bullets, of course.

Our TT has a very similar floor plan to your moho, and the length-wise "grow" in winter of the new flooring has me worried. The TT is a rear bath, and has the mid sleeping area, then kitchen then lounge up front.

I was considering putting a decent-sized gap at the door between the galley and the sleeping area, with a screwed-down track holding a "T" or "mushroom cap" style there. I would leave about a ¼" gap on either side of the track.

To my mind, this would lessen the stress the length of the floor would undergo, and maybe protect it from buckling.

I hate doing jobs twice, and this is the only way it would seem to be possible to not force the expansion to travel the entire ~29' of the interior.

Any thoughts?
I was actually more concerned about the moisture in the bath from showers. I also thought a break at the bath doors would make fitting in that area easier. After cutting the pieces I was able to get it in without the break.

I personally have a hard time imagining this "engineered" flooring moving that much. I was tempted to measure a piece of flooring with a micrometer and then putting it near a steamer for awhile and then remeasure it just to see if I could make it grow. I just didn't have the time. I live in a log house and there is much discussion about the logs swelling and shrinking. You are not supposed to connect interior walls to the ceiling to allow movement and you are supposed to leave gaps above doors and windows for the same reason. I can tell you my home is 28 years old and the interior walls are connected to the ceiling with no cracks and there are no gaps above the doors and windows. I was talking to a local log builder about my place and he wouldn't believe me. He finally came over and looked for himself. All he could do is shake his head.

I would bet the aluminum in your trailer will grow more on a hot day then your floor will. Is it really a problem, who knows? I guess you just have to go with what makes you comfortable.

Cheers, Dan
Smartstream is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-26-2011, 08:17 PM   #20
2 Rivet Member
 
woodja's Avatar
 
1982 31' Airstream 310
Dayton , Tennessee
Join Date: Jul 2010
Posts: 84
I posted a few pics of my flooring efforts last fall after repairing some rotting sub floor. I took several pics of my trim work but finally gave up trying to up load them. It may be helpful here so will try again. This is simply hardware store hemp fastened every 12-15".
You can also see the holes where I did thru bolt the two chairs. After nearly a year I'm not sure of the wisdom but I don't worry about them flying around (except maybe around & around).
Pete
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	P1010003.jpg
Views:	106
Size:	138.1 KB
ID:	133400  
woodja is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Laminate flooring: when to install? Phrunes Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 2 06-07-2011 05:52 AM
Floor prep on chip board flooring. airepal Floor Finishes 2 05-09-2011 02:48 PM
Replacement flooring material polarlyse Repairing/Replacing Floor &/or Frame 10 04-01-2011 04:07 PM
composite flooring bathroom installation sealing the toilet handn Floor Finishes 1 03-10-2011 06:47 PM
Bamboo Flooring Argosy22 Interior Restoration Forum 1 01-23-2011 08:41 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:56 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.