'81 Excella Newbie

[81 MexCella]

So I'm at a stand still without any luck in finding new wheel hubs for the front. Are these seriously a one off Hub for Airstream? Are there any other known vehicles I can hunt for at wrecking yards? The hubs that were on it have damaged races and I do t want to replace rotors and bearings in that condition. Does anyone have any suggestions? Can the original ones be rebuilt/restored? In the mean time I'm working replacing radiator, water pump, and hoses. Here's a pic of my coach in its current state. Not sure if I'll make the April 6th coast camping trip in Eureka.....

[Boom Sounds]

Check to see if the ACDELCO 18A274A is the replacement part for Tony's OEM code. I think Rockauto have them.

all the best
Nick

[81 MexCella]

Originally Posted by Boom Sounds

Check to see if the ACDELCO 18A274A is the replacement part for Tony's OEM code. I think Rockauto have them.

all the best
Nick

I looked up the part number, that is just the Rotor part of the assembly. Ordered those already The hunt continues!

[Boom Sounds]

There was a fella up in canada parting out a 310, he might have them.

[bkahler]

Here's a listing for someone on ebay selling 310 parts. I think the seller used to be called "runamuck083" but that user name doesn't seem to be on ebay anymore.

Brad

[perryg114]

There are places that restore old cars that can weld the brake surface and then turn it back down again assuming the hubs are fine other than that.

I would call Jackson Center and ask them about the part and if it is a special made rotor. If so, what is so special about it that they had to have a special part made for the Airstream motor home? There might be other rotors that will fit.

Perry

[Waipio Rim]

So, you can't press out the old races and replace?

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Waipio Rim

So, you can't press out the old races and replace?

That's what I've was wondering. If the problem is a race has spun in the hub housing then you can take the hub to a competent machine shop and they should be able to weld the bore of the hub and then turn it back to spec on a lathe.

[cliffcharb]

I believe what you're calling a hub is actually the wheel spacer. You would remove that from the rotor and install onto the new rotor. The bearing races would be pressed into the new rotor. Really no need to replace the spacer unless it's damaged somehow.

[perryg114]

What is wrong with the hubs other than the thickness on the rotors is below the limit?

Perry

[81 MexCella]

Originally Posted by bkahler

That's what I've was wondering. If the problem is a race has spun in the hub housing then you can take the hub to a competent machine shop and they should be able to weld the bore of the hub and then turn it back to spec on a lathe.

That's exactly the problem. The races sit loose in the Hub assembly. I just found out yesterday about the process mentioned above. I found a machine shop that will bore out the Hub press in a sleeve and then bore out the sleeve to the correct race diameter. Looks like this opportunity is solved Thanks for all the help and suggestions fellas!

[perryg114]

Sometimes you can just go with a bearing that has a larger OD and skip the shim part. Or you can put in a bigger bearing and add the shim to the spindle. mcmaster.com has bearings. You just put in the OD and ID and it finds the bearings.

Perry

[kyote]

OP,

Impressed at the speed you are working on this! And you got for an even better price than I did

Out of curiosity, did you replace the radiator and water pump as preventative maintenance, or was there a problem? Mine seem to be doing their job, so I replaced the fluid and have fingers crossed...

Looking forward to seeing your progress

[81 MexCella]

Originally Posted by kyote

OP,

Impressed at the speed you are working on this! And you got for an even better price than I did

Out of curiosity, did you replace the radiator and water pump as preventative maintenance, or was there a problem? Mine seem to be doing their job, so I replaced the fluid and have fingers crossed...

Looking forward to seeing your progress

I'm replacing as preventative maintenance, the radiator will actually be rebuilt with a new core and the water pump I ordered new. The radiator had some collected rust from sitting and the water pump bearing squeaked a little. I plan on taking "Electra"cross country so I want to do so with some peace of mind....that and my buddy who's working on it for me is a helicopter mechanic by trade and big on preventive maintenance. Hence the serious service job we're into.

[perryg114]

I would put OEM stuff back on it from who ever built the engine. I have had a lot of water pump bearings fail because they were not well made. You get what you pay for. The same goes for rebuilt brake calipers.

Perry

[81 MexCella]

We have now replaced all brake lines, turned rear rotors, replaced front rotors, replaced front and rear shocks, packed and replaced all bearings, replaced water pump, rebuilt Radiator, new hoses, belts, all filters, and all fluids. And of course new tires.

Went through and sand blasted all terminals and replaced all bulbs on outside lighting. Got all to work! The plastic housing on the top lights was so brittle and worn I had to use some RTV Sillicone to hold lens in place. I'll replace all housings and lenses in the future when I go led.

When we removed the radiator we noticed the fan shroud was missing, so we ordered a universal one from Summit and fabed it in there.

A few things left to do before April 7 maiden voyage: register with DMV lol, replace ft and rr air bags (have parts already), replace fuel lines, located a propane leak (soappy water time). Re-bleed brakes.

Here are some pix

[81 MexCella]

We bled the brakes with a pressurized bleeding tool and flushed out all the old fluid. We got good pressure at the pedal. This was with the engine off. Once we got the engine running again after finding the manual priming pump near injectors, we lost pressure at the pedal and it can be pushed all the way down. Is there a trick to bleeding a hydroboosted system or something we're doing wrong?
Thanks,
Erny

[Isuzusweet]

Originally Posted by 81 MexCella

We bled the brakes with a pressurized bleeding tool and flushed out all the old fluid. We got good pressure at the pedal. This was with the engine off. Once we got the engine running again after finding the manual priming pump near injectors, we lost pressure at the pedal and it can be pushed all the way down. Is there a trick to bleeding a hydroboosted system or something we're doing wrong?
Thanks,
Erny

Did you replace the master cylinder? If not, you may have toasted a seal in the old cylinder.

The system is an absolute pain to bleed, especially the longer the coach. It can take three or four tries before all the air is out. Keep a real eye on the reservoirs as they can be depleted and add more air to the system as you go.

Amazing work and your rig will be a joy using as you have taken care of pretty well all problems from the get go.

Cheers
Tony

[81 MexCella]

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

Did you replace the master cylinder? If not, you may have toasted a seal in the old cylinder.

The system is an absolute pain to bleed, especially the longer the coach. It can take three or four tries before all the air is out. Keep a real eye on the reservoirs as they can be depleted and add more air to the system as you go.

Amazing work and your rig will be a joy using as you have taken care of pretty well all problems from the get go.

Cheers
Tony

Thanks Tony! We did replace the master cylinder. For the bleeding process we used a pressurized bleeder that sits on top of master and sucks brake fluid from a bottle reservoir. We hook up to the tire for pressure. It beats having to sit there and pump 6x hold down release pump 6x release repeat 50x lol

[Trnpk Crsr]

It looks nice, especially for six grand.

John