345 Preventive Maintenance

[John Woodrow]

I've had my 1987 345 for 11 years. We did a lot to it 11 years ago when I bought it. All new brake calipers, belts, hoses, installed a Gear Vendors overdrive unit. two new low profile roof A/C unit and a new refridgerator along the way.
It's stored in a heated and air conditioned building and is in beautiful shape with 77,000 miles on it. Really haven't used it much in the last five years.
This spring I plan to take it on an extended trip and wanted to ensure that I'd have no troubles on the road. It was being cantankerous if trying to restart when hot and the voltage gauge barely showing over 12 volts. We took the starter motor in for rebuild - it was due. Also took off and cleaned the ground straps from the battery drawer to frame and from the engine to frame. I also added added additional ground straps in both locations. The results were amazing! All issues resolved!
In giving it a good look over, the radiator has a few indications of leaks. It ran cool but thought it best to pull the radiator and have it re-cored and repaired. It's no small task to get it out! While we were there, decided to
install a new water pump, clutch fan and replace the working but noisy A/C pump and drier. Having gotten that deep, I'm having the alternator serviced as well. Just installed all new tires and had it aligned.
I'm looking forward to traveling this spring with high confidence in the old girl!

[tevake]

Nice to have you join us on the forum John.
Yours does sound like a well cared for rig.

One refresh item that can slip under the radar is the brake fluid. The brakes in our coaches do work hard to manage the weight involved.
Along with differential oil and all other fluids that should be changed after a hibernation.

Glad to hear of your success with adding ground straps, I've to do that too.

It's good to see another well loved "queen of the fleet" heading back out on the road.
Do keep us posted on your progress, and travel plans

Cheers Richard

[Isuzusweet]

Welcome to Aluminitus Empiritus:

It certainly looks like you have things well under control; as for my suggestions:

Richard is onto something; if not used regularly fluids absorb moisture and become contaminated, especially brake fluid.

So completely flush the entire brake system (if it was me, I'd replace the possibly 30 year old master cylinder while you have the system opened, as seals go bad if not used). I'd also replace transmission fluid and filter. At 77,000 miles it wouldn't hurt to replace the rear diff fluid as well.

How is your distributor cap, sparkplugs and main coil?

Also I hate to break it to you but you're possibly entering the last miles of your power train. That engine maybe a beast in a Chevelle but it's a mouse in a 345 pushing 16,000 lbs up hills, so while the plugs are out, having a compression check done would give you an early indication of possible problems BEFORE you hit the road.

Wishing you safe travels and keep in touch!

Cheers
Tony

[John Woodrow]

Richard and Tony, thanks for the suggestions! I will change the brake fluid and rear end juice. Being stored in a good environment I'm inclined to gamble on the master cylinder.
I did change plugs, wires, cap and such previously and it runs like a top so I'll leave those alone now.
I'm aware that about 100K is life expectancy of the 454. Mine seems great now and I'll let it go till it gives me signs - subtle or otherwise... What is the preferred engine when replacement is in order? 454, 502 or other?

[Isuzusweet]

Originally Posted by John Woodrow

Richard and Tony, thanks for the suggestions! I will change the brake fluid and rear end juice. Being stored in a good environment I'm inclined to gamble on the master cylinder.
I did change plugs, wires, cap and such previously and it runs like a top so I'll leave those alone now.
I'm aware that about 100K is life expectancy of the 454. Mine seems great now and I'll let it go till it gives me signs - subtle or otherwise... What is the preferred engine when replacement is in order? 454, 502 or other?

As a person who has experienced that aweful foot to the floor feeling just remember to have a game plan to gear down and reach for the parking brake just in case. The master cylinder is only $90 or so dollars by the way.

Many, many threads on engine replacement: The third one is a good one.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ine-32711.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f159...ade-16849.html
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...-a-140290.html

Chiefair ended having to tow his motorhome about 1000 miles to get it home for him to work on it.

Getting a new engine on some back road in the heat of summer is not something to take lightly. Have a plan on who to call and how to handle the situation before it arises is critical to your stress level. Jasper makes a nice motor and can be shipped anywhere easily but make some phone calls to make sure of supply before you set out.

If you do have an engine failure out on the road, it maybe a good idea to phone the local Snap-on dealer for references to a good mechanics shop.

Cheers
Tony

[John Woodrow]

While we have it opened up we also decided to install a new fuel pump, steering dampener and rag joint in the steering column. Also did an admittedly cheap shot of extracting the brake fluid from the master cylinder, which looked OK and replacing it with fresh. I know that a complete exchange would be better but I'm OK with that compromise.

[345bill]

Just sending you another welcome, John.

Always remember "We like pictures" especially when two MH's of the same class left the factory with any number of differences. Pictures sure help clarify what each is asking/telling about.

[John Woodrow]

Decided to put in a new master cylinder for good measure while we were in there. Read on this forum that several had had cracks in the tag axle mounting brackets so we took a look. Sure enough, they were cracking. Not real bad but it needs to be addressed. I'm water jet cutting two 5" pieces to weld over the existing brackets to fix that issue. We are running out of things to do!

[Boom Sounds]

John - would you mind sharing which master cylinder you installed?


Sent from my iPhone using Airstream Forums

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by John Woodrow

....... We are running out of things to do!

Hey John, I sincerely hope you have not awaken the Airstream 'Gods'. My experience is to always have something manageable, and not critical, unfinished, just so they don't think you are getting ahead!

[Isuzusweet]

A couple of things yet to check........

Ball joints; especially the lower ones; Mike (Mayco) had a lower go south on him, luckily at low speed in a parking lot just after pulling off the highway. The wheel folded right up into the wheel well doing a bit of damage (picture in Mikes thread). If your suspension parts are good, then a couple of pulls with the grease gun should finish it off; while the grease gun is out remember to grease up the U- joints and carrier bearing.

Have you date coded your tires? How old are they? Blowouts do an amazing amount of damage to these aluminum queens.

New wipers and Rain-X or Aquapel the windshield.

Cheers
Tony

[tevake]

I try to keep enough spares and tools with me to ward off troubles while traveling.

I guess fixing everything up front is another good way to go.
You seem to be making good progress in that directions.

If your list runs out, just go for a trip, a sure generator of new lists.

Cheers Richard

[John Woodrow]

Thanks guys. Good tips all!
The master cylinder we got from Autozone. I dont have the part number with me but be sure to tell them that it has rear disc brakes they ordered one in for a rear drum set up which was wrong. The correct one arrived a day later and when bench bleeding it noticed that it was leaking between the reservoir and body. Returned that one and finally got a good one.
My tires are all brand new so that won't be an issue for the time being.
We did pull the front hubs and serviced the bearings and replaced seals. They were not in eminent danger but were definitely due for a good cleaning and fresh repack.
Plan to do the tag axle hubs when we do the weld repair to the axle mounts. We'll chain the axle to the frame, raise the unit and remove wheels and hubs for better access to do the repairs. Of course, we'll check out the tag brakes while it's all open. I'm inclined to disconnect the tag brakes for several reasons. They do very little to assist overall braking, service life is short, drums are no longer available and when I tow a trailer and may need additional braking capacity, my trailer has it's own brakes.
The front end was just inspected by a respected shop and given the green light.
I will schedule a transmission service and change the rear differential fluid.
Read here on the forum a good tip about checking the electrical connections in the breaker box and transfer switch. They do tend to work loose over time and bumping down the road doesn't help that.

[ALANSD]

sounds like you have a wonderful Airstream. I found on a long Summer trip the main issue I had was with the 454 heat generated in the manifolds, near much of the wiring. I ended up replacing the wiring and covering it in heat proof tape. I also replaced the starter with a billet aluminum one in a heat " jacket". Not sure if you have ever had this problem, but it was disconcerting being some many miles from home.
Enjoy your trip!

[Isuzusweet]

That's the other thing I was thinking of.....wheel bearings! I have one on the front that's starting to squeal myself! The back ones are pretty bulletproof and need no servicing.

John, youre a smart guy for starting a thread like this, because no matter how hard you try and think you've thought of everything.....some one will think of something that you've forgotten, or didn't even know about.

The end result will be that you will be more relaxed and confident taking her out for a long trip. I wish you all the best.

Cool thread!
Cheers
Tony

PS Check your starter and coach batteries for load and voltage couldn't hurt.

[Smartstream]

I agree it sounds like you have a great coach and are doing good things maintaining it. I would recommend you do not disable the tag axle brakes. First with the exception of small light weight trailers the law requires any wheel on the ground to have an operational brake. The tag axle was added to carry the weight of the vehicle. Brakes on the axle are also required to properly and safely stop the vehicle. We don't even want to think about the liability issues in the event of an accident.

If you feel comfortable drive with the brake control set at the minimum but do not disconnect anything in the system.

[tevake]

My 345 came to me with no brakes in the tag axel, the whole wheel assembly was removed.
After a scary drive down from Lake Tahoe, with overheating brake fluid and peddle going to the floor. I decided that even a little more brakes is just what I needed. I sourced the entire wheel assymblies fron Inland RV and with those in place and new dot 4 fluid have driven lot of high passes in Colorado with no problems.

Additional brakes could just save you that critical ten feet stopping distance in an emergency stopping situation.

The OP mentioned short working life. Did you find that you had to replace the tag brakes frequently?

Cheers Richard

[John Woodrow]

Thanks again for all of the good suggestions!
We have serviced all of the bearings. I have located new tag axle seals a short distance away and will get those today.
Regarding the brake issue, my coach has an aftermarket brake controller mounted to the left of the steering column. It appears to be dedicated to the trailer brakes. It also appears that the tag axle brakes are tied into the brake light switch and possibly controlled through the height sensor for the rear end - according to the mechanic friend who investigated the system. New loaded backing plates are only $65 each so replacing them wont be cost prohibitive but still would have the "no drums available" issue. If needed, a machine shop could fabricate an adapter plate but that would be a bit of an undertaking. I'm inclined to run without tag brakes for a minute to see how it feels. I will then take it to a local shop that specializes in heavy trucks and brakes for them to do whatever is necessary. Realizing that 80% of braking is done in the front and only 20% is shared by the rear axles, it seems to me that the tag brakes would only be about 5% of total braking.
We have had the starter rebuilt and it is working very well but I am aware of the heat issues and will keep an eye on that. Had the Lesco alternator
gone through as well. It seems to be overcharging. Turning the voltage regulator all the way down it's still putting out 14.8 at idle and kicking in and out. The re-builder came by yesterday and is investigating the issue. It worked fine before being rebuilt, we just wanted to be sure it was in top shape while we had it opened up. More to follow....

[John Woodrow]

Figured that I should make a complete list to keep with the records of everything we've done so far. I tried to post it in another thread but it apparently got lost in cyberspace. In any event, here is the list. Suggestions of what I might have missed are welcomed!


Service work performed in January, 2017

All new tires (8)
Front end aligned
Steering box adjusted and new rag joint installed
Radiator rebuilt (4 row), serviced and painted
New Water pump, fan clutch, engine fuel pump, master cylinder, steering dampener
Alternator serviced and bearings replaced
Rebuilt starter motor
External voltage regulator rewired and calibrated
New engine air conditioner compressor, system evacuated, oiled and charged
Engine belts and hoses replaced
Replaced all rubber fuel lines with fuel injection hose
New fuel filters installed
Serviced existing and added new ground straps from battery box and engine to frame
Replaced TV antenna with new King Digital unit & new antenna amp installed
Installed Vizio digital TV and digital to analog converter in rear
Installed Levolor blinds in living area
Removed, cleaned and reinstalled all mini blinds
Sealed sliding window leaks
Replaced old exterior Vulkem 116 caulk as needed
Oil& filter changed and all chassis points lubricated
Transmission serviced, filter cleaned and new synthetic fluid flushed in with additive
Speedometer gear and seal changed to correct speedo error
Rear differential drained, cleaned and serviced
Front wheel bearings and tag axle bearings cleaned, repacked & seals replaced
Front furnace removed and serviced
New Kenwood stereo installed
Rebuilt bathroom faucet
Replaced toilet base seal
Replaced black water dump valve and replaced gray handle setup
Generator service, oil and filter change and new fuel filter
Tightened all 110 volt connections and breakers
Rewound 30 amp service cord reel, cleaned and adjusted plug
Serviced all interior and exterior lights
Lubricated power step mechanisms and all locks, hinges & drawer slides
Remounted 7 way trailer connector
Polished front and rear bumpers
Cleaned air conditioner filters
Replaced vent fan handles in bath and shower
Cleaned all upholstery and carpet, installed floor runners
Drained, sanitized and refilled water system

[Isuzusweet]

Yup! If you want a peaceful and eventful cruise out on the town with one of these 30+ year old queens.....that list just about covers what you need to check.

The only thing I could add would be to check air ride suspension airbags for checking, check air compressor and lines for leaks.

There are many people that buy these queens that have sat for many years that should take this list and do it all, BEFORE attempting to go anywhere!!!; even for just a short cruise!

A big thanks John! I vote for this thread being a sticky!

Cheers
Tony