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Old 12-01-2017, 06:54 AM   #41
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1974 20' Argosy 20
Richmond , Kentucky
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Wayne, I bought PPL part number 44-1662 for my 310 and for my Argosy. Mine have two steps but the picture shown in the latest PPL listing appears to show them as a single step. Back in 2012 I paid $356 each delivered. It appears prices have gone up somewhat.

This double step 48-4612 actually looks like the ones I bought.

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When I was installing the steps on the 310 I found the top section that bolts to the coach is narrower in width than the original vacuum steps. This necessitated fabrication of a spacer to fill the gap. It was about 2-7/8" wide if I remember correctly. I discussed it in post 36 of this thread.

Brad
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Old 12-02-2017, 09:53 AM   #42
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1983 30' Airstream 300
Covington , Louisiana
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Hi Wayne, we also used Kwikee 44-1662 (903209025). I welded a plate of heavy sheet metal to fill in the the area where the old step mounted. Used a floor jack to position the new step (that sucker is heavy!) to mark the new mounting holes. The face of the steps sit about an inch inboard of the bottom of the door. Wiring was easy and straightforward. I used the original door jam switch, can't remember if it's N.O. or N.C.. I mounted the override switch on the dash, but you really could put that anywhere. The only drawback was that I couldn't use the original valance trim that covers the step when up. Zero clearance issues. Well worth the money and effort!
Ray J.
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:01 AM   #43
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Width wise it is a tight fit. I had to notch the side skirt a little bit for one of the hinge pins to fit.
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Old 12-02-2017, 10:34 AM   #44
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1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia , New York
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Thanks
I was considering the series 40, it has a bit more drop than the 32. But the width of the 32 looks like a better match.
I found the 32 on amazon for about $460 with tax and free shipping. It is out of stock but no rush in the cold weather.
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Old 12-02-2017, 11:00 AM   #45
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1974 20' Argosy 20
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Wayne, the steps that I bought were almost a direct bolt in replacement. I'm pretty sure I used some if not all of the original mounting holes. The only real issue was fabricating a filler for the gap since the top place of the frame is narrower than the original.

Definitely better than the vacuum steps

Brad
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Old 12-24-2017, 07:35 AM   #46
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I have my new electric steps, I just dont have the weather to install them.
While I wait, I took measurements and made up some cad drawings of the old & new and the MH frame to mount them.

A few things I came up with:
1st: The 4 holes in the MH mount are skewed by about 1/8" end to end compared to the MH door frame. I used the 3 door frame bolt holes to judge the skew.
2nd: The slots in the original vacuum step are not at the same spacing as the MH step frame bolt holes. The old steps are 21 7/8" front to rear and the frame holes are 21 3/4" The new steps are spaced 22"

I am guessing the MH step frame holes were drilled by hand in a half assed attempt to install the steps.

To make the new steps fit I am using some scrap 5/32" aluminum plate to go between the MH steps frame (including the door frame) and the new steps.
There is also a piece of .1" aluminum angle iron fastened to the top of the new plate at the door frame end to add extra support and add a place to attach some skirting to hide the step mechanism while retracted. (I will add pictures when the snow retreats)
I will drill new holes in the MH step frame (and aluminum plate) to match the holes in the new step.

I am trying to determine how far I want the new steps to protrude from under the MH.
That is why I am doing the cad drawings.
I want to have as much of the extended step surface available for use.
I also want to be able to hide as much of the retracted step for cleaner lines than the original step had.
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Old 04-20-2018, 12:56 PM   #47
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Despite the weather I installed my steps!

The hardware is complete, but I only have the wires on with wire nuts to test the setup but everything works as I hoped.

I hooked it into my version of the dash fluid sensor module with the warning chime for lights on, steps down or door open with the ignition on and it all works!

I also added a lighted 3 position switch in place of the one that came with the steps.
This allows me to do the normal method of keep the steps down with the door open or closed, or allow the steps to retract every time the door closes. The LED's in the switch are only lit when the steps are not up.

The center position turns off power to the steps in whatever position they are in. I wanted this for maintenance safety while working underneath near the steps and sometimes I like to sit in the doorway with the steps retracted.

I will do pictures and diagrams some time later. My back told me it was time for a break
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Old 04-23-2018, 04:34 AM   #48
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A few images from my install.
At first I was going to try and get the max foot area on the top step but when it is retracted it stuck out 2" further than this:

The top step is not bad extended, body contour matters more than foot comfort.

This is my step switch, I added the OFF position to suit my needs

This is how I wired the switch:


More photos on this unpublished page:
http://theouterlimits.ws/projects/ai...ric_steps.html
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Old 04-23-2018, 03:14 PM   #49
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Wayne, you came to the same conclusion I did. Contour trumps comfort!

I like your center position power off switch. I'll have to incorporate that into my Argosy when I do the step wiring.

Brad
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