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Old 01-14-2022, 08:25 AM   #1
2 Rivet Member
 
1984 32.5' Airstream 325
Gainesville , Florida
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 88
Blog Entries: 2
2 AC... 1984 325... 30amps

Well, I know this has been done to death... but, I must be missing something but how these operate.

Our fixer-upper has 2 dead AC units and I'm in the process of replacing them. I really like the Houghten AC3400 RecPro 13500 BTU, low profile, very quiet but they each run on 15.5 amps. Obviously this is a problem with a max of 30 amps.

We live down in Florida so having 2 AC units able to run at the same time would be great.

What I can't understand is why (if you can only ever run 1 at a time), do they have two AC units? So you can close of one end or the other of the bus (eg. at night only cool the rear)? Otherwise.. what a waste of $$.. kinda and that hard to believe.

Yes, I can spend $3K wiring in 50amp (don't want too), but even then how to run both. I suppose the selector switch could be bypassed. I've only just got my generator working properly and because the AC units are dead, I can't (yet) check if I can run both if the generator is running... as some folks say. I can't say I want to listen to the generator run all night either.

One option would be to go to two smaller units (9500 BTU) that run at 12.6amps that would give 1900BTU at 25.2 amps (running). Obviously would need to be careful during start up.


Thanks for your insight -
Pete
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Old 01-14-2022, 08:44 AM   #2
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2005 30' Land Yacht 30 SL
South Windsor , CT
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Posts: 25
Probably apples and oranges but maybe helpful: On my 2005 Land Yatch the front AC unit has priority. The rear will only run when the front is cycled off.

From the manual:
Automatic Energy Select Switch (AESS)
Located in the trunk area.
Front a/c is priority. Rear a/c will cool, if cool mode is selected, when front a/c has
finished its cooling process. Front a/c will come back on as its thermostat detects the need
to cool and the rear a/c will shut off.
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Old 01-14-2022, 08:46 AM   #3
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2018 30' Flying Cloud
Springfield , Ohio
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The best solution might be to use one larger and one smaller unit. Both should run on a 30 amp circuit without any problems. You would still have to watch what other appliances you run when both AC units are on. There isn't much wiggle room left when both are operating. Another solution it to use two larger units and install EasyStart modules in them. These units start the AC fan before the compressor kicks in and lessens the load on the electric panel. They work well and would probably work for you but again you don't have much wiggle room to run other appliances.
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Old 01-14-2022, 09:01 AM   #4
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1984 32.5' Airstream 325
Gainesville , Florida
Join Date: Jul 2020
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Thanks

Cheers- - I believe that's a better system, at least the two will run somewhat automatically. I believe the earlier classics are ... shall we say... 'special'..in a eye rolling manner

Thanks -
Pete

Quote:
Originally Posted by vintage6t View Post
Probably apples and oranges but maybe helpful: On my 2005 Land Yatch the front AC unit has priority. The rear will only run when the front is cycled off.

From the manual:
Automatic Energy Select Switch (AESS)
Located in the trunk area.
Front a/c is priority. Rear a/c will cool, if cool mode is selected, when front a/c has
finished its cooling process. Front a/c will come back on as its thermostat detects the need
to cool and the rear a/c will shut off.
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Old 01-14-2022, 09:17 AM   #5
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1984 32.5' Airstream 325
Gainesville , Florida
Join Date: Jul 2020
Posts: 88
Blog Entries: 2
Thanks -that seems reasonable.

The 13.5 unit plus the 9.5 would use a total of 26.6 amps when running, but would need (if both cranked on at the same time) 30.1 amps. As you mentioned, not much wiggle room, and it seems I would still need to figure out how to bypass the selector switch.

Good idea - thanks.
P


Quote:
Originally Posted by tbrowne View Post
The best solution might be to use one larger and one smaller unit. Both should run on a 30 amp circuit without any problems. You would still have to watch what other appliances you run when both AC units are on. There isn't much wiggle room left when both are operating. Another solution it to use two larger units and install EasyStart modules in them. These units start the AC fan before the compressor kicks in and lessens the load on the electric panel. They work well and would probably work for you but again you don't have much wiggle room to run other appliances.
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Old 01-14-2022, 11:42 AM   #6
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1988 32' Excella
Robbinsville , New Jersey
Join Date: May 2012
Posts: 1,787
They also have high efficiency A/Cs where the 13,500 btu units use 11-12 amps. https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Air-Cond...T15027-22.html You need to check specs carefully though as some sites list the amp draw of the compressor and hide the draw of the fan which can be over 3 amps. Also you can save about 1 amp more per A/C by running the fan on low.

Edit; Make sure your A/C units are on separate circuits. I think they are since I believe I read you should be able to run both on generator.
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Old 01-14-2022, 12:47 PM   #7
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Eunice , Louisiana
Join Date: Jul 2018
Posts: 9
My campground here in Louisiana uses a power post that contains one 30 amp receptacle and one 20 receptacle. My 28 foot Airstream Classic didn't have enough electricity to run all that I needed to run in my bedroom. I drilled a pass-through hole from the outside of my coach through the inside wall and installed one:

20 Amp AC Power Inlet Port Charger Plug, by Journeyman-Pro 110-125 Volt Socket, Waterproof Electrical Outlet Receptacle

On the inside wall of my bedroom I installed one:

Wiremold Plastic Nonmetallic Raceway, Extending Power, On-Wall Extra Deep Box, Ivory, NM35 and then I installed a twenty amp receptacle and plate in the box.

I used a short 20amp extension cord and connected the 20amp receptacle in the power post to the new inlet port receptacle outside of my coach and fed the new receptacle in my bedroom.

In my bedroom any 110 volt appliances that were connected to the existing coach were unplugged and transferred over to a properly rated plug strip. The plug strip was plugged into the new Wiremold electric box.

Everything in my bedroom including my electric heater is now being fed from the ground fault receptacle and 20 amp circuit breaker in the power post outside my coach.

If I were you I would do something similar.

Outside your coach around the location were the single pole double throw switch that controls your two AC units is located, come through the outside wall of your coach and install a Wiremold box. Run surface mounted Wiremold raceway from the new box inside your coach to the ac switch and split the circuit in the AC box so one AC runs on the new 20 amp installation the other AC remains on the existing wiring.

Good Luck
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Old 01-14-2022, 01:35 PM   #8
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1994 30' Excella
1992 35' Airstream 350
Austin , Texas
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The easiest way to deal with this is to run a dedicated 20 amp circuit to:
1. A circuit breaker
2. a selector switch that manually switches between Generator and the dedicated 20amp circuit.


I use a 50amp "dogbone" that splits into 2 30 amp legs to supply the coach and the additional circuit.
As mentioned above in some case you can also use the 20 amp plug to feed the rear AC, if you are at a 30 amp site. (Not recommended and some campgrounds will not allow that)
The low profile recpro units are fantastic, fairly easy to install and so much quieter than any of the other Ac's on the market. You would only need a 9.5 BTU for the bedroom. The only drawback is no solution for the internally run drain lines.
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Old 01-14-2022, 09:10 PM   #9
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1982 31' Airstream 310
champaign , Illinois
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I did something very similar to what Peter is describing in his post. I added a second shore power cord though. It’s a pretty easy setup, no hassle running the rear a/c OR additional electric space heater off the second dedicated power cord. I did add a small 2 breaker box to protect that power cord.
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