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Old 01-24-2019, 07:19 AM   #161
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Originally Posted by Boom Sounds View Post
I am watching your work with interest as will need to do the same one day and, as you say. do it right first time.

Did you locate that fuel strainer which is near the tank? I thought that was inline with the pump to stop crud getting to the filter on the frame rail?
So far I have not. There is a prefilter thatís mounted on bottom of fuel pump in tank you can see it in the one pic. Itís reddish in color (should be white)
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Old 01-24-2019, 08:52 AM   #162
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So far I have not. There is a prefilter thatís mounted on bottom of fuel pump in tank you can see it in the one pic. Itís reddish in color (should be white)
One other favour, would you mind list the casting or product number of the original fuel pump just in case there is new old stock floating about thanks Nick
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Old 01-24-2019, 10:58 AM   #163
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One other favour, would you mind list the casting or product number of the original fuel pump just in case there is new old stock floating about thanks Nick
Nick, the fuel pump was replaced just prior to my purchase - I can write the numbers down on whats on there but I suspect it is aftermarket.
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Old 01-24-2019, 12:16 PM   #164
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Nick, the fuel pump was replaced just prior to my purchase - I can write the numbers down on whats on there but I suspect it is aftermarket.
OK - ta
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Old 01-25-2019, 01:33 PM   #165
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Ok so Chevy dealer was helpful - parts guy was an old rv owner as well. He said my chassis was ordered fuel tank delete (code 9H2 on my service part identification sticker) - so it was supplied by airstream ( I did send them an email but have not gotten a reply - Im guessing I will end up having to call.) He also added that the standard 80 gallon tank fuel sender is part 15978527 EDIT - THATS THE TANK PART NUMBER which is no longer available. A quick google search yielded no available results or replacements.
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Old 01-25-2019, 02:31 PM   #166
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I wouldn't hold my breath on AS getting you any good information. So far every part number I asked for was an AS only part and always discontinued. It seems that there are no good records going back that far. Was told that most of the paper records were never updated to digital and access to those old records is no longer available.
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Old 01-26-2019, 05:46 AM   #167
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Ok so Chevy dealer was helpful - parts guy was an old rv owner as well. He said my chassis was ordered fuel tank delete (code 9H2 on my service part identification sticker) - so it was supplied by airstream ( I did send them an email but have not gotten a reply - Im guessing I will end up having to call.) He also added that the standard 80 gallon tank fuel sender is part 15978527 EDIT - THATS THE TANK PART NUMBER which is no longer available. A quick google search yielded no available results or replacements.
I think you have entered the world of bespoke variations to the P32 chassis, which can be a right old pain. The frame rails were different on the Motorhome chassis. I've clocked that my 250 actually has the smaller 40 gallon tank which I think was a more standard set-up.
You might want to check in with Spectra or Mill Supply to see if they have one for your application.
I'd be interested to know whether it is viable to switch out just the pump and in tank filter and possibly any rubber hoses if the entire unit is not available.
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Old 01-26-2019, 06:09 AM   #168
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I think you have entered the world of bespoke variations to the P32 chassis, which can be a right old pain. The frame rails were different on the Motorhome chassis. I've clocked that my 250 actually has the smaller 40 gallon tank which I think was a more standard set-up.
You might want to check in with Spectra or Mill Supply to see if they have one for your application.
I'd be interested to know whether it is viable to switch out just the pump and in tank filter and possibly any rubber hoses if the entire unit is not available.
Thankfully mine works. It has a new fuel pump in it. Just has some rust on the tubes and i figured since Iím going this far why not just replace it. Good idea in theory. Iíll keep searching but for now I ordered a new filter for the pickup and a new o ring for the cam lock seal and will just clean it up and use as is.
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Old 01-26-2019, 09:23 AM   #169
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Thankfully mine works. It has a new fuel pump in it. Just has some rust on the tubes and i figured since Iím going this far why not just replace it. Good idea in theory. Iíll keep searching but for now I ordered a new filter for the pickup and a new o ring for the cam lock seal and will just clean it up and use as is.
Does the sending unit itself still work?
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:02 AM   #170
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Does the sending unit itself still work?
Yes it does.
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:13 AM   #171
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If the sender is in working order and the pump looks new and was told it just replaced, then I would just replace the filter sock and top seal and be done with it.
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Old 01-26-2019, 11:20 AM   #172
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Maybe take a good look at the float on the sender, not unusual for that to be an issue.
Glad to see the good Progress you are making Scott.

As you can see you are in the company of lots of active DIYers here.
I've have such helpful suggestions for my projects along the way from folks here.

Cheers Richard
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Old 01-31-2019, 06:48 PM   #173
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Getting the plywood out of the c channel is quite the challenge. Iím in my own personal hell with this job.
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Old 02-01-2019, 08:19 AM   #174
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Getting the plywood out of the c channel is quite the challenge. Iím in my own personal hell with this job.
If it is wet and swollen into that channel, it's hell on the knees and hands due to the fact you're working right against the floor sheeting material; been there, done that.

Living with Chemo is easier than this job.
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Old 02-01-2019, 11:08 AM   #175
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I've never read any thing good about doing that chore. But that oversized dental pick looks the business for the task, Scott.
Maybe attaching a sliding weight dent puller would help.

Yikes, after hearing Tony's discription, I don't envy you.

Wondering Tony, if the coosa comes in a size that matches the channel well?

Cheers Richard
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Old 02-01-2019, 01:20 PM   #176
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You can use a drill with a 3/8 bit to drill a lot of holes to weaken the wood. Then make a hooked pick from an old screwdriver to get the pieces out. It is still a knuckle buster job.
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Old 02-01-2019, 02:57 PM   #177
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Yes a drill will work but you need a very long bit to reduce the angle as you are drilling from a chuck that's at least an 1" to center off the floor. Also wrap some masking tape around the bit to give you a reference to drilling depth.

Richard, Coosa can be bought in 5/8" thicknesses, but it would be special order. I found the 3/4" Coosa was actually around 11/16, so I machined the 1 3/4 edge to go into the channel.

I first made a 1/4" deep cut with the table saw 1 3/4 to the ouside of the blade. Then I set the saw fence for 5/8" and the blade height to just meet the grove I cut. After machining the 1 3/4 to 5/8" thick, I set the saw at a 10 degree angle and machined 1 1/4" of the 1 3/4" to have a bevel on it to aid in insertion into the channel. I then rounded off the bottom corner.

Not the best picture.

Cheers
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Old 02-05-2019, 03:10 AM   #178
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Just finished reading this thread. Thank you all for adding to the quality of the sleuthing and discussion. We have yet to purchase our rig (Classic or 350), but am soon to find and claim my position at the parts counter. And thank you Scott for sharing the photos and your seemingly patient progress toward the unexpected fault. Well done.
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:47 AM   #179
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Getting the plywood out of the c channel is quite the challenge. Iím in my own personal hell with this job.


A set of radiator hose picks might help quite a bit in digging out the plywood from the channel.

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Old 02-05-2019, 05:05 PM   #180
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Thanks guys. Taking a break for the flu right now. Iíd rather be digging out plywood.
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