1991 Airstream Classic 350 le

[tevake]

If you end up deciding to drop the tank, it is easiest using two floor jacks.
Get them supporting the tank. Ease off on the strap clamp bolts. Try to get the straps out of the way so you can lower the tank, watching for the hoses from the top of the tank. Lower a little at a time on each Jack.

If you have raised the back end of the coach, you will have enough clearance to slide the tank out from under the coach to work on it.
It's best to Jack the back of the coach up from near the rear Axel to avoid stressing the rear sections of the frame.

Spring for a pair of truck Jack stands to get enough height at the rear of the coach.

Here is a neat Change we made to the straps to make them easier to get out of the way.

A couple of other things worth sharing of my project are the new straps my helper suggested we make up for hanging the tank. These have hinges welded on the side opposite the fastening bolts. This proved really helpful on subsequent drops of the tank. Probably would not have been a big deal if working on a hoist. But for the tight confines of working at ground level this made it much easier to get the straps out of the way to allow the tank to drop down closer to the ground. And getting clearance to get at the top of the tank was tight. Once the tank is on the floor jacks and the bolts loosened the hinge pins could then be removed, freeing the straps to be cleared away.

I also ran a new fuel line all the way to the engine, and to the gen. While in there with access. The return line is just a couple of years old from when the P O installed the TBFI. Also new filler hose and vent line really tied up things in the fuel system nicely.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Cheers Richard

[tevake]

Here is a link to a thread from that job.
Scroll down the first page to see the details of the straps.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ng-137779.html

And watch out to avoid pinching the hoses when reinstalling the tank.

Cheers Richard

[Boom Sounds]

Originally Posted by tevake

Here is a link to a thread from that job.
Scroll down the first page to see the details of the straps.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ng-137779.html

And watch out to avoid pinching the hoses when reinstalling the tank.

Cheers Richard

That's really useful intell, I need to get into that stuff, hopefully this year. Thanks Richard.

all the best
Nick

[sraab928]

Originally Posted by tevake

Here is a link to a thread from that job.
Scroll down the first page to see the details of the straps.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...ng-137779.html

And watch out to avoid pinching the hoses when reinstalling the tank.

Cheers Richard

Thanks for that info - two questions - how much do you need to raise the rear? Can I just drive up onto a couple of 2x10's? Im really not equipped (yet) to lift this coach safely.

Next question - you mentioned you replaced all your lines - I planned on replacing any rubber portions I find to comply with todays fuels- but why did you replace the metal lines? I see Bob Miller does that too and I just don't understand the need - please enlighten me....

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by sraab928

Thanks for that info - two questions - how much do you need to raise the rear? Can I just drive up onto a couple of 2x10's? Im really not equipped (yet) to lift this coach safely.

Next question - you mentioned you replaced all your lines - I planned on replacing any rubber portions I find to comply with todays fuels- but why did you replace the metal lines? I see Bob Miller does that too and I just don't understand the need - please enlighten me....

I'll take a stab at the replacing the steel lines question. I've found on older vehicles that sit a lot will have crud, shellac or whatever build up on the walls of the lines and over time will start to flake off. That's what filters are for but sometimes just starting over is a good thing.

Brad

[Boom Sounds]

Originally Posted by bkahler

I'll take a stab at the replacing the steel lines question. I've found on older vehicles that sit a lot will have crud, shellac or whatever build up on the walls of the lines and over time will start to flake off. That's what filters are for but sometimes just starting over is a good thing.

Brad

Further to the points of replacement of the steel lines. I need to inspect mine. How difficult is it to replace them and (being in the UK), are they pre-formed to precise measurements and sold by GM or do I just get someone here to make up a replacement? I suspect the latter in my case.

thanks
Nick

[sraab928]

Took a break from the running issue and did some demo in the bedroom. I knew there was a soft spot near the fuel fill but I was not prepared for what was under the water tank. The tank doesn’t appear to have a leak either but who knows.

[Air345Fly]

If the engine bogging down was due to a blocked filter wouldn't
that have shown up in the fuel pressure test?


It sure sounds like the gas tank is full of krud but it is possible that
cleaning it out may not fix the problem.

[sraab928]

Originally Posted by Air345Fly

If the engine bogging down was due to a blocked filter wouldn't
that have shown up in the fuel pressure test?


It sure sounds like the gas tank is full of krud but it is possible that
cleaning it out may not fix the problem.

The fuel pressure was tested at a shop that I am not so confident in at this point - I have not tested it myself yet - I was disconnecting filter to test the pressure when I found the rust colored crud -

[tevake]

I think it would be pretty difficult to get the clearance you want by just driving up on 2xs. I had jacks at hand, and getting the truck jackstands was good for me as they serve well when dropping the engine in my 911.

Two things contribute to the need to get it raised. The tank and jacks and firing add up to some depth. Plus getting the straps out of the way is not easy, as they are pretty stiff and hard to get clear with out bending them badly.
The tank is shoehorned between the frame rails so there is no wiggle room till it is clear of the frame.

I replaced the fuel lines because there was some pitting on the old ones and with the age of them it seemed prudent. In the time pressure to get the job done to make a planned family get together I used rubber fuel hose the whole distance forward to the engine. Will probably replace it with new metal ones at some time"

Perhaps you could siphon the fuel out of your tank and get a scope into it to see if it needs taking out.
There are products made for coating the interior of tanks if it's needing that sort of treatment..
Mine was supprisingly spic and span inside. After the needed seam welding was done, I coated the whole exterior with thick coating material used on pickup beds.

Cheers Richard

[sraab928]

Okay. So floor is coming out in bedroom due to rot. My concern in the galvanized (I assume) sheet is rusted and rotted through in areas. Has anyone replaced this before?

Silver lining. Access to the top of the tank won’t be an issue. Lol

[tevake]

Yep, the floor in the bedroom of my coach is needing attention too. But since I'm living aboard I'm reluctant to tear into it till my property is better set up to support the job.

I would say tho there is a lot more in clearing the bedroom of its furniture than dropping the tank if it comes to that.
Crazy plumbing back there, plus the compressor, water tank. Phew what a cluster.

I'm sure you will be hearing about coosa board as a replacement material soon.
It does look good.

All the best in your expanding project.
Cheers Richard

[sraab928]

Originally Posted by tevake

Yep, the floor in the bedroom of my coach is needing attention too. But since I'm living aboard I'm reluctant to tear into it till my property is better set up to support the job.

I would say tho there is a lot more in clearing the bedroom of its furniture than dropping the tank if it comes to that.
Crazy plumbing back there, plus the compressor, water tank. Phew what a cluster.

I'm sure you will be hearing about coosa board as a replacement material soon.
It does look good.

All the best in your expanding project.
Cheers Richard

I will 100% be using coosa board - my concern is the sheet metal - It does not appear to structurally do anything - was it just there to protect the wood from moisture? If so with coosa do I even need it? Just random thoughts.

[sraab928]

Here is the sending unit for the tank. Also noted one line is pinched by tank installation (it was dropped just prior to my purchase) This sheet metal just pulled up by hand - no cuts or tools - its very weak.

[Waipio Rim]

There’s a video here:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...on-124594.html
that shows the “one piece metal sheet” being installed. I guess its purpose is to protect the subfloor from below, but it sure seems like it will trap moisture spilled or leaked inside the coach.

[sraab928]

Pic as she sits now

[Isuzusweet]

All you need to know, and more.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...me-106269.html

The rot under the tank is most likely caused by the way the tank filler hose is attached. Instead of going through an inlet and being clamped, it instead fits over an inlet pipe on the tank, and then is clamped. The hose is ribbed, (at least in mine it is), and such doesn't lend well to a positive seal. So, what happens is, people fill the tank and water leaks out around the inlet to the tank and lands on the floor. I have taken a water hose, cut the end off that would normally fit on the coach, and I thread the hose through the water inlet hose until I can feel the hose is actually in the tank, and then fill the tank; but not all the way to the top.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

[sraab928]

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

All you need to know, and more.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...me-106269.html

The rot under the tank is most likely caused by the way the tank filler hose is attached. Instead of going through an inlet and being clamped, it instead fits over an inlet pipe on the tank, and then is clamped. The hose is ribbed, (at least in mine it is), and such doesn't lend well to a positive seal. So, what happens is, people fill the tank and water leaks out around the inlet to the tank and lands on the floor. I have taken a water hose, cut the end off that would normally fit on the coach, and I thread the hose through the water inlet hose until I can feel the hose is actually in the tank, and then fill the tank; but not all the way to the top.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

I’ve read that thread a few times. Your floor looks different. First it’s actual plywood vs particle board (not a big deal). Second underneath the wood looks different. Mines just straight up metal. Yours appears to be something else in the pics. Am I wrong?

[dadstoy]

I had the same issue as Tony. A large section of floor under the water tank was rotted out. The tank had no leaks but the exterior filler was the culprit. I don't think I actually got the filler to stop leaking, but I solved the problem another way. I tapped into the cold water line under the sink, added a shutoff valve and use this to fill the water tank when needed. I also did this so as not to bring attention to myself by filling tank with hose from outside. We have water restrictions at the "ranch" and I've seen water restrictions posted at a few campgrounds.

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

All you need to know, and more.

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f311...me-106269.html

The rot under the tank is most likely caused by the way the tank filler hose is attached. Instead of going through an inlet and being clamped, it instead fits over an inlet pipe on the tank, and then is clamped. The hose is ribbed, (at least in mine it is), and such doesn't lend well to a positive seal. So, what happens is, people fill the tank and water leaks out around the inlet to the tank and lands on the floor. I have taken a water hose, cut the end off that would normally fit on the coach, and I thread the hose through the water inlet hose until I can feel the hose is actually in the tank, and then fill the tank; but not all the way to the top.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

[Isuzusweet]

Originally Posted by sraab928

I’ve read that thread a few times. Your floor looks different. First it’s actual plywood vs particle board (not a big deal). Second underneath the wood looks different. Mines just straight up metal. Yours appears to be something else in the pics. Am I wrong?

Airstream used the cut offs of the vinyl clad aluminum interior wall panelling in my 310. So my metal is in 16" or so panels. In later Airstreams (325's and on), they used a one piece galvanized sheet.

Yes, my subfloor was marine grade plywood; still made out of organic material that rots.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony