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Old 01-20-2021, 05:37 PM   #161
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
Halifax , Nova Scotia
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Iíll take better pictures and explanations for my second heater. Let me know if you have questions about how I got them out of the coach and I can explain better. (You should wait and see if they work when I reinstall them before following my instructions though . )
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Old 01-21-2021, 05:15 PM   #162
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
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Here is the plan... researched it all and some ďexpertsĒ say to use light oil (3 in 1 or GC which stands for German Castelli) while others say to use graphite or lithium grease... I have no graphite grease or dry graphite here (other than the kidsí pencils) but I have a fancy Volkswagen lithium grease.
I will do one furnace with 3 in 1 oil and the other with lithium grease and we will see what happens... it may take a few years but I will eventually revive this post in a few years with which furnace started being noisy again
Starting that work with better pics tonight or over the weekend.
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Old 01-23-2021, 07:35 AM   #163
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Sorry, not German Castelli it stands for German Castrol (stupid autocorrect)
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:33 PM   #164
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
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Ok, I started on the second one today so here are some notes. What you will need:
-screwdrivers and ratchet set to remove them from the airstream
-1/4 in socket adapter for the self tapping screws
-a few small sockets for the motor nuts
-1/4in wrench for one screw that the screwdriver canít reach
-some new gasket insulation from a heating supply store
-RTV sealant
-butyl tape for the vent
-Allen key for the fan cages set screw
-oil or grease or graphite...
I think thatís it


Steps:
-disconnect the electrical wires to the furnaces
-disconnect the vent tube from the outside
- the bedroom furnace is accessed by the access panel
-the kitchen one required removing the access panel door and frame. And it also sits on an aluminium ducting adaptor that makes it too big to pull out so you just unscrew the furnace from that base and it will slide out.
-you disconnect the vents from the sides. Lifting the adaptor and rotating slightly and they just pull off.
The picture shows that duct adapter. Click image for larger version

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Once you have them out and on your workbench you can remove the blower assembly.
Remove all these screws. Note that some are longer than others.
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:35 PM   #165
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:39 PM   #166
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Now itís out but you will need to disconnect two wires to the flow switch and cut those to the motor. I decided to cut them because disconnecting from within the furnace would have required complete disassembly. Pick a spot to cut the wires that will allow you to reconnect the connectors you will install after.
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Next you remove the combustion air fan cage with the Allen key. It will require you to remove the gasket and you will likely damage it.
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Once the cage is out, yep nuts and you can pull the housing. There is a fabric gasket between the black housing and the motor so just pull straight out and be careful not to damage it.
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:41 PM   #167
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
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Next get the flow switch out as it will prevent the blower cage from coming out and it appears fragile
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Now you can undo the blower set screw and rotate it out
I reinstalled the small blower on the other side of the motor just to help rotate free the big blower squirrel cage. You want it out completely so you can clean it nicely
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Old 01-24-2021, 05:42 PM   #168
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Iíll update the rest when I continue working on it tomorrow.
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Old 01-24-2021, 07:04 PM   #169
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Thumbs up

Thanks for taking the time to document this, sure is a lot of work to take apart.
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Old 01-24-2021, 07:37 PM   #170
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Londonderry , New Hampshire
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I would be careful about lubricating the fan motor bearings with
oil or grease. If they are plain bearings then they are likely made
from graphite impregnated bronze.

The problem with oil or grease in such bearings is that there is
nothing to hold the lubricant in. Also the lubricant will attract dust
and with a fan there is a lot of dust floating around. The dust
will get in the bearing and gum them up.

Unfortunately bronze bearings just wear out and get loose. Oil
or grease will make it work for a time but is not a permanent fix.
Dry graphite is a better idea as it won't pick up the dust. Mostly
you just have to replace the motor.
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Old 01-25-2021, 07:16 AM   #171
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1988 34.5' Airstream 345
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Good point. Itís off as they didnít look worn but they were vibrating.
I have done one already with the light machine oil (3-in-1) and I will grab graphite for the second one. I suppose another possibility could be to modify the housing and insert a roller blade bearing in there. The motor seems quite specific. I will keep my eyes out for a replacement but for now, I will see how long this holds up.
So the test will be one with oil and one with dry graphite.
The design of the motor however has the squirrel cage fans outside the motor so the airflow is not directed at the bearings which should reduce the dust collection but your point is valid there is always dust...
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:19 AM   #172
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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What I did years ago with a fan motor from an antique car was
to replace the bronze bearings with ball bearings. This required
making a new mounting using my lathe. A replacement for
the original motor was impossible to get.

I had thought about taking the bronze bearing and cutting it
on one side. This would have made it look like a "C". The
bronze used in such bearings is very brittle so I would not have
attempted to bend it closed. The idea was that the spring washer
holding the bearing would squeeze it in just a bit and stop
the vibration. But I never did it and opted for the ball bearings.
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:50 AM   #173
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Yep... I have done the ball bearing swap on an old 911sc heater blower. Click image for larger version

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a roller blade bearing was perfect to go in the heater motor. But this one would require more involved work to fit it as the bearing is slightly too bigClick image for larger version

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Old 01-25-2021, 11:04 AM   #174
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What is holding the bronze bearing in place? Bronze bearing materiel
is readily available, perhaps you could just replace it? If you
are able to replace the bronze you might try to make the bearing
longer so that it runs on parts of the shaft that are not warn.
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Old 01-25-2021, 01:15 PM   #175
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1987 34.5' Airstream 345
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Good to see the process and progress.
These furmaces work very well and have a nice background sound, till that squark starts up, can be caused by low voltage aswell..
They may well be phosphorus bronze bushes, cant see clearly enough, but if so what you do with them is soak them in thin warm oil. It then reimpregnates the bush, long long life.
I might use the graphite powder mixed maybe in 3-1 warmed up soak overnight in a tin.
Its hard to live with a roudy fan so have a think:} no rush. I need to replace my sail switch, I understand they are still available? Keep up the documenting real helpful....
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Old 01-25-2021, 06:25 PM   #176
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Yeah, hard to take a good picture that close with the phone. I tried to capture the colour a bit better hereClick image for larger version

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Old 01-25-2021, 06:41 PM   #177
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Well I have nothing to lose... letís see if the fancy liqui moly with MoS2 will impregnate.
Currently warming up and soaking on a battery warmer padClick image for larger version

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Old 01-25-2021, 06:44 PM   #178
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I canít find the exact motor. I find some that are higher RPMs but not the exact, even without the brackets (I could just replace the motor and re-weld the tabs but no luck). So 8íll try what I can with those motors and continue to search for the replacement motor. If all else fails I will cut the covers and I think I may be able to set in a bearing from the back side of the covers and glue it in with bearing set loctite (loctite 620)
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Old 01-25-2021, 06:47 PM   #179
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So while that sold Iíll make the gasket. I use this stuff that I got from a furnace place. Click image for larger version

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Kaowool fiberfrax paper. This one is 1/4 in but itís fine as it separates easy (you only need 1/8Ē)
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Old 01-25-2021, 10:34 PM   #180
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
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It looks like the bearings are spherical, so that they are self aligning, and
held in by the spring fingers that you can see. The other side looks
like a metal cap the supports the other end of the bearing and is
spot welded in place.

If you wanted to try to replace the bearings you could grind off
the spot welds. I think that some small screws could be used
to hold the cap back on.
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