1984 Model 345 - maiden roadtrip

[marcvl]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

Sounds like a good setup, I've been very happy with my pepwave max transit duo. What kind of speeds are you seeing out of that cat 18 modem? I have the 2x cat 12s

Yes they are great. I also have a transit, but with a single LTE radio. At my currrent location and with the default antenna stubs (not the roof mounted one) I’m getting around 110 Mbps download on T-Mobile (using 3 channels) and around 50 Mbps on Verizon (using 2 channels)

I will need to configure the router to cap download speeds on video streaming or Netflix will happily consume all that bandwidth and bleed me dry.

[marcvl]

Originally Posted by bobmiller1

LMAO ! Ditto......Regards, Bob

Ha! You know what ... that’s how I feel with half of you guys posts on car mechanics . This is why I love this forum. So many different perspectives. So much expertise!! It’s pure gold (and fun to research with Google and YouTube by my side)

[dadstoy]

This sounds like the right time to ask for some thoughts on my WiFi issue. At the ranch property, we do not have cell service, but we do have WiFi. WiFi is provided via multiple hot spots located around the main compound. I have no idea what equipment is being used but the internet service is AT&T. When the landline/internet connection to the ranch is working well, I can make phone calls over AT&T WiFi Calling, watch Netflix and all. There are times (way too many times) that the service is pretty crappy.

However, that is not the issue. The hot spots are located strategically around the property, so if close enough and line of sight is good enough, I can connect directly to a hot spot with the cell phone, tablets, PCs, TVs, etc. But there are times, depending on the RV space I'm in, where line of sight to the hot spot is blocked by trees, hills or other RVs. The aluminum Airstream will also make connectivity from inside the MH difficult at times. This is especially true when I cover the windows with Reflectix.

So I have a wireless repeater Hawking Tech HW2R1 (a 10 year old model) (https://www.hawkingtech.com/product/hw2r1/) sitting inside my cargo trailer and an external WAN antenna on the cargo trailer roof. (https://www.tupavco.com/products/yag...or-directional). I have also used an omni directional antenna in the past. As long as I keep the ramp door on the cargo trailer open, I have no issue with connectivity to my repeater from inside the MH and that way my neighbor can use it also.

The issue I have is that I can not maintain a consistent connection between my repeater and the hot spot. It can be great for a long time and then it craps out. Sometimes I can reboot it or reconnect to the hot spot and all is good again.

I only have a couple of thoughts on this. One is maybe the Hawking Tech repeater is just too old or not good enough for what I'm doing (I do update the BIOS once in awhile). The other is that all the hot spots on the property all have the same SSID and PW. When I search for the hot spots via the repeater setup screen, I can see multiple hot spots (all named the same) with varying levels of signal strength along with many other WiFi routers and devices from other owners at the property. I connect to the ranch hot spot with the highest signal strength.

I'm wondering if the real problem is our multiple hot spots all with the same SSID. There are times that the internet may go down or fade out or a hot spot my drop out and I'm guessing that my repeater then connects to a different hot spot farther away with much lower signal strength which is not good enough for proper internet activity. If I reconnect to a hot spot showing the highest signal strength then most of the time all is good again.

Any how, I thought I would throw that out there and see if any of our network/internet/radio experts here have any thoughts. I'm shaking my head at just how much we have changed as a society where we need to be connected 24/7 and if not just how freaked out we become. There was a time at the ranch where we only had these things called pay phones which meant one could go to the ranch and be left alone. Now I can be at the ranch and my cell phone rings (AT&T WiFi Calling), which startles me, I look and see it is a customer and say to myself "**** I came up here to get away from all this!"

Thanks
Dean

[marcvl]

Having multiple hotspots with the same ssid and password is pretty bad design. My guess is that your hypothesis is correct. Your repeater might switch from one hotspot to another and be worse off as a result. Ideally, the hotspots on the property should be configured as a mesh network so they share the same network properties and appear as just 1 network.

I would definitely consider buying a new repeater. The WiFi standard has evolved significantly in the past 10 years: new frequency bands, 4x4 mimo, etc.

[dadstoy]

Thank you for your reply Marc.


After researching new WiFi routers today, now I remember why I bought the Hawking Tech router years ago and the situation seems to be even worse today. I need a WiFi router with a detachable "internet side" antenna. I need to locate the "internet" side antenna outside the MH to access the hot spot. The cost of a commercial WiFi router just isn't worth it to me at all.

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by marcvl

2/ MH WiFi
- I picked up a Unifi AP and connected it to the Peplink. This will create a strong WiFi network inside the MH. You don't technically need this because the Peplink can create its own AP, but given that the antennas are on the roof, the network quality inside the MH might not be great, hence a dedicated Unifi AP.

Curious, why didn't you just disconnect the roof antenna connections and put the stubby ones back on the pepwave for those 2 coax connections? The only advantage on the roof is WiFi as WAN and campground WiFi is usually garbage anyway

[marcvl]

Fair question. I wanted to preserve the option of connecting to a campground if or when that makes sense. Also, I want rock solid WiFi anywhere inside and, given that the Peplink will be in the front left overhead cabinet, I might not get great connectivity all the way in the back. The Unifi will be mounted against the ceiling somewhere in the middle, so should provide perfect WiFi anywhere.

[marcvl]

I've been quiet for a while, working on my automation prototype, while my MH is in the shop. Went to the shop last Friday to check on the progress:

- Radiator has been recored. The old radiator had 4 cores but was not in great shape. The new one is also thicker (3 inch total thickness or so) and is better suited for a MH.
- New rotors and break pads
- According to my mechanic the alternator is from the 70s and should be replaced.
- We also found a source for California smog equipment (AIR pumps, diverter valves, manifold air pipes, etc.) and we're in the process of installing these (to avoid smog check problems in the future).
- Finally, we're going to install a electrical fan in front of the radiators, and separate cooling on the transmission.

See progress pictures here: https://photos.app.goo.gl/fJYmAsgt2tGfisNb7

[marcvl]

I’m looking to replace all drawer tracks. None of my drawers open or close easily. Any recommendation on which part to buy?

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by marcvl

I’m looking to replace all drawer tracks. None of my drawers open or close easily. Any recommendation on which part to buy?

If the drawers are not rusted out, you may want to go the cleaning/ greasing route. carb or brake cleaner works well to blast the crap out. I use bearing grease to get them going again.

[Kvsterling]

All of my drawers were very rough when we purchased. Each drawer was removed, de-greased, lubed, and re hung. It’s a process, but was able to avoid replacement. The large pull out drawer was the worst. Rubber bumpers were torn and jamming in the track, and noticed the roller was bent. Little bit of hammer/anvil straightened it to make it serviceable.

[Magnet18]

Previous owner replaced all of mine, I'll try to remember to look for a part number.
Apparently they came outside one morning and the big drawer was just sitting on the ground under the motorhome

[marcvl]

Thanks, I'll try the cleaning route first.

On another note, all the engine-related work has been completed and she drives great. Almost brakes like a regular car. And she got all the California-mandated emission components installed (AIR pumps, air injection pipes, diverter valves), so I won't need "luck" to get through the next smog test! But, boy, the doghouse looks PACKED with all the new stuff added.

Currently, we're redoing all the electrical and installing solar panels. The electrical was in really bad shape. The 12V fuse panel had copper tubes instead of fuses. Ouch. We're going for 400W solar panels, 2 LiOn batteries, 3kW inverter/charger, + some random other components (e.g. 12V DC DC stabilizer, so my sensors and automation components don't get fried). And while we're at it, upgrading the 110V system to 50A. Also installing a MobileMark LTE/WiFi antenna on the roof and a ubiquiti WiFi AP in the ceiling. With all this, I have everything I need to get my automation system up and running.

Talking about that, I built my own smart thermostat that is able to control heating and AC units from various manufacturers. It has a Nest-like touch screen and integrates with Home Assistant for remote access or access via an app. See pic below.

Final update, floor inspection shows rotten spots in the bathroom and kitchen, but nothing that cannot be fixed locally. So, my plan is to remove the interior over the summer, fix the floor issues, and then reinstall everything (while upgrading appliances and re-upholstering dinette and couch).

[marcvl]

Does anyone know how the 12V fuse panel in a model 345 is wired up? According to the manual, the panel has 8 circuits, very helpfully described as circuit #1 to circuit #8 (A-F + U). I'm looking to understand where each of these circuits go. We discovered multiple shorts and trying to locate the origin of these shorts. I guess I know understand why the PO had replaced the main fuse with bare metal :-)

Also, someone tried to break in and in the process broke the lock cylinder. He didn't get it (thank you dead bolt), but my front door lock now broken. Does anyone have a source for a new lock cylinder that fits?

[Paul J Mauro]

after all these years and work we have not yet repaced the original heating unites front and back.last weekend in VT we had a great trip (cold nite)but when the heat units were cycling on and off the fan noise get worse and worse as they warm up and my guess is fan bearings are shot .... so who replaces these with original rebuilt and who puts modern units in that fit .my next not too urgent project since its warm here

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Paul J Mauro

after all these years and work we have not yet repaced the original heating unites front and back.last weekend in VT we had a great trip (cold nite)but when the heat units were cycling on and off the fan noise get worse and worse as they warm up and my guess is fan bearings are shot .... so who replaces these with original rebuilt and who puts modern units in that fit .my next not too urgent project since its warm here

You mean the furnace?

Not too hard to totally replace with a new unit of the same size

[Kvsterling]

I found a replacement motor for my suburban furnace. It wasn’t too difficult, but requires pulling the insides of the furnace

[Kvsterling]

Also, at one time vintage trailer supply sold some re-created lock mechanism parts for the entry door. I bought all 3 parts and replaced the moving parts of my entry lock. They may have info about those parts to help with your broken lock

[marcvl]

12V panel replaced, after finding 4 shorts in the system. Ouch.

We took her to the Pinnacles National Park last weekend and had a blast. We went with two friends who also have Airstreams. It was fun the ride together.

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by marcvl

...
We took her to the Pinnacles National Park last weekend and had a blast. We went with two friends who also have Airstreams. It was fun the ride together.

Nice!!