1984 Airstream 345 owner (Newbie) need advice!

[mayco]

I'd sure like to do that to my roof. Maybe one of these days. We travel to Colorado pretty often and even there the sun heats up the roof so bad it gets hotter than heck inside. It's a bit of a shame to have to run the ac so much when in such pretty country.

I hope you decide to put a second Maxfan in. It's real nice to have one blowing in and one blowing out. Those blades move a whole lot of air. Our front one is real close to being over the stove, so with it and the vent hood we can get rid of lots of cooking smells.

[Keyair]

Yes, Love the way it looks, AND when I was in the bedroom, with the vent open, I could feel air circulating without the fan even working yet!

In fact, my front vent fan is now not working... I checked the fuse, in the housing and it was good. Sealant above is cracked, worse than the rear one was. Sounds like more good reasons to pull it off and round file it than replace it!
On the 345, the front vent is just about above the entrance area, and so a bit forward of the galley. I think the idea of putting the front vent on extract, and the rear vent on intake, makes good sense!
The reason I shared the roof paint, is its easy, cheap, and seals the roof too! I plan to put another coat on the rear bedroom, if only to go over the sealant to protect it from sun damage, and try to smooth out the finish a bit more.
This is current finish using the medium nap roller. Ignore my boo boo bottom left. First coat in that area was with brush, and it had not hardened enough, and wadded up when I went over it again.


Oh, I forgot to mention, that the rear Curbside wardrobe floor was “dry” this visit!

The two "wings" of the step area by the entrance door were not, so that tells me that we had rain enough, and I can only assume the rear leak has been sealed!

I am 57, 6' 4" and 240lb on a good day.[emoji57]

The idea of climbing on the roof does not appeal to the Airstream, or me...
I did it all(Vent replacement, and roof paint) without getting up there.

Aside from the removal of the AC units for gasket replacement(I noticed gobs of sealant under the rear AC... I have no plan to venture up there.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Ok, I've been thinking about this for a few days and I don't think using two will work. I think the reason the module can provide a separate brake light wire is because when the brake pedal is depressed both left and right signal wires are energized. If a turn signal is energized then one of the two wires starts flashing on and off. I think what the module does is senses that one of the two wires is still on (no blink) so it sends that signal to the new stop signal. If only one wire is flashing and the other is off then the module would just send the flashing signal.

I have one of the modules in hand and will test that theory in the next day or two. One way or another we'll know if you can use two or not soon

Brad

I took the time last night to test the Curt turn/brake light module. Since Peanut's tail light assemblies have been removed so the shell can be polished I used Peanut's tail lights for the test. For vehicles in the US the tail light/brake lights are typically setup as a dual element bulb where the dimmer of the elements is the parking or running light and the brighter element is the stop/turn light. This is how the Airstreams are configured.

Peanut's light housings have an amber lens towards, red/white and red. The amber is the turn, red/white is backup and red is brake/parking.

The Curt module assumes you have a left turn light, left brake light, right turn light and right brake light, i.e. the same configuration as Peanut's lights.

What the Curt module does is it compares the left turn signal wire and the right turn signal wire. If both are energized for braking then the red brake light wire is energized while the green and yellow wires are off. If the green or yellow wire starts flashing then the appropriate turn light flashes while both brake lights stay energized. If you release the brakes then the turn signal stays flashing until your turn is complete.

I forgot to check for parking light function so I'll have to run the test over again to see if the dual element for parking lights works.

So, the bottom line is you can't use two of the modules, you have to run a wire between the two tail light assemblies. I'll let you know what happens with the parking lights.

Brad

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by bkahler

I took the time last night to test the Curt turn/brake light module. Since Peanut's tail light assemblies have been removed so the shell can be polished I used Peanut's tail lights for the test. For vehicles in the US the tail light/brake lights are typically setup as a dual element bulb where the dimmer of the elements is the parking or running light and the brighter element is the stop/turn light. This is how the Airstreams are configured.

Peanut's light housings have an amber lens towards, red/white and red. The amber is the turn, red/white is backup and red is brake/parking.

The Curt module assumes you have a left turn light, left brake light, right turn light and right brake light, i.e. the same configuration as Peanut's lights.

What the Curt module does is it compares the left turn signal wire and the right turn signal wire. If both are energized for braking then the red brake light wire is energized while the green and yellow wires are off. If the green or yellow wire starts flashing then the appropriate turn light flashes while both brake lights stay energized. If you release the brakes then the turn signal stays flashing until your turn is complete.

I forgot to check for parking light function so I'll have to run the test over again to see if the dual element for parking lights works.

So, the bottom line is you can't use two of the modules, you have to run a wire between the two tail light assemblies. I'll let you know what happens with the parking lights.

Brad

It does sound an easy way to change from US style turn/brake lights to European turn separate from brake lights though Brad?

[Keyair]

Ok.
Am I correct to say that the is a singular blinker output in the Motorhome, or how else is the front turn signal Fed, or the mirror blinker?

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Keyair

Ok.
Am I correct to say that the is a singular blinker output in the Motorhome, or how else is the front turn signal Fed, or the mirror blinker?

Steve,

The front turn signal lights are separate from the rear turn signal/brake lights.

It would seem the Euro spec brake and turn signal wires are separate wires, i.e. there is a brake wire and a turn wire going to each rear corner. On our motorhomes there is only one wire per side which is a brake/turn signal wire. When the brakes are pressed if the turn signal lever is not activated then both wires receive 12 vdc. If while braking the turn signal lever is activated then the turn side starts de-energizing and then energizing repeatedly causing the one side to flash while the other side stays steady 12 vdc.

What the Curt module does is it monitors both turn signal wires, if both are solid 12 vdc then the red wire turns the brake lights on. If one of the wires starts flashing then it flashes the respective turn signal but keeps the brake lights energized on both sides.

Hence the Curt system requires separate brake and turn lights on each corner.

In order to use the Curt module on your coach you will need to run at least one wire from one rear corner to the other corner. That would be the brake light wire that connects to the red wire on the Curt module. If I'm not mistaken the rear tail light wiring that is routed from the front to the back is first routed to the drivers rear and then two wires (turn and park) are split off and routed to the other corner.

You would locate the Curt module behind the drivers rear light assembly where you hopefully have access to the green and yellow wires before one splits off to the passenger side.

Make sense?!

Brad

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by martin300662

It does sound an easy way to change from US style turn/brake lights to European turn separate from brake lights though Brad?

That's what it would appear. That's the main reason I asked about the rear bath removal in Peanut, easy access to the tail light wiring!

[martin300662]

Originally Posted by bkahler

That's what it would appear. That's the main reason I asked about the rear bath removal in Peanut, easy access to the tail light wiring!

Just sent you a message Brad....the bathroom can go!

[Keyair]

I was just thinking I could also run a pair of wires and tie them into the front blinker circuit.


Just ordered a second Maxxfan Delux!

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Keyair

I was just thinking I could also run a pair of wires and tie them into the front blinker circuit.


Just ordered a second Maxxfan Delux!

Unfortunately wires from the front blinkers won't work. Your options are somewhat limited. You can mount the Curt module under the dash and then run a brake wire to each rear corner, or you can mount the Curt module behind the left rear tail light housing and run a wire from the left side to the right side. That's pretty much it.

Brad

[Keyair]

Ok. I bought one.
Curt 56196 2 to 3 wire tail light converter.
Let’s see!

Rock Auto came thru with what I think is the correct belts, and for sure, top hoses, and a maybe on the bottom hose. Then last belt arrived after, as well as 6v battery lift straps that are a must.
2x Top hose Gates 21441
1x Bottom hose ACDelco 24162L
1x Dayco 15630 for fan/ac/ps
1x Dayco 15495 for fan/alt/smog pump
1x Dayco 15410 short PS/fan


Wrap project is progressing with a wood “Hammer Form” under construction for one part I’m still struggling to get right.
Should be read for test this weekend.

Solar water heater project is progressing, and documented in its thread.



Began soldering the pipes onto the copper back plate.


And 12v water pump arrived.


Hope to have it ready for a test, next week.

Side note, I upgraded my 20t Press jack from a manual pump, to an Air/Hydraulic unit speed.



This means the manual 20t was “relegated” to be my Motorhome jack!
Plenty beefy!

[Keyair]

Made a decision spend the day at the MH today.
Rain was forecast, and I want to be there when it was coming down and ID a couple of leak areas.
And crank on my to do list.
Boy did it come down! Gotta just love being in an Airstream when it’s raining!
Confirming the bedroom wardrobe leak is no more. Goodness, I’ve been battling that one since day one. Not sure if it was the roof paint or Captain Tolleys, that I dropped on the rivets, but it’s dry so far! Beer time!
So, no roof painting today!
And, the horrible wardrobe across from the galley, is history!



Now trying to figure out what to do with this space, do I move the dinette there, and build a J couch there... or vice versa.... and which side drawer is staying if either.

[Keyair]

That done, between showers with thunder and lightning rolling around me, I was up on the roof.
Inspected the front Fantastic Fan... yup. Toast!


Nothing to do with that today, so pulled the TV antenna off, ready for paint, sealed the holes with tape for now.
Seriously questioning if it will be going back on.
I mean, who watches TV via and antenna now???
Maybe I’ll get a Dish.
Opinions?
Then it was into the back of the MH to pick up where I left off.
Rear corner of the floor under the bed was bad, so I cut it out.
That will have to be replaced, but what to use that’s easy to get?
Evidence of extra guests, so set some traps.


When I got home, #2 Maxxfan was waiting for me!

[Magnet18]

On the antenna, for your travels, I recommend a verizon MiFi/jetpack, $65/mo for unlimited data, and then put a good directional antenna on the roof

That's been my primary internet and entertainment source for 3 months, used probably over 1,000Gb of data and no problems

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

On the antenna, for your travels, I recommend a verizon MiFi/jetpack, $65/mo for unlimited data, and then put a good directional antenna on the roof

That's been my primary internet and entertainment source for 3 months, used probably over 1,000Gb of data and no problems

Rob, is the Verizon Verizon Mifi/jetpack plan unlimited data now? I used the Mifi/jetpack for around 4 years for my sole source of internet access (downfall of living in the country) and all Verizon had was an 8gig/month plan for $80. It was really tough staying under the 8gig limit. On that plan each 1gig above 8 was an additional $10 per gig. The plan really sucked

Brad

[Keyair]

Sounds good!

Can anyone refresh me on this subfloor replacement issue? Am I correct to say it’s 5/8” think and what’s the current best stuff. I know Coosa Board is good but I can’t find it locally, and 3/4 marine ply requires routing to fit and then is stepped. I have several areas to replace as they are done.
Also, what’s the best soaking resin for reclaiming other areas?

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Keyair

Sounds good!

Can anyone refresh me on this subfloor replacement issue? Am I correct to say it’s 5/8” think and what’s the current best stuff. I know Coosa Board is good but I can’t find it locally, and 3/4 marine ply requires routing to fit and then is stepped. I have several areas to replace as they are done.
Also, what’s the best soaking resin for reclaiming other areas?

Steve,

I installed Coosa board in my Argosy. My floor was 1/2" thick ply so I ordered and used 1/2" Coosa. There is a distinct difference between plywood and Coosa when it comes to sagging under load. From my experience plywood is definitely stronger and won't sag as bad when standing on it. I had to add a lot of 1"x2" steel tubing in my floor to support the Coosa so it wouldn't deflect while standing on it. The Coosa will bounce right back but you can definitely feel it when walking across it if it's not supported properly.

Even with the issues described above I would still use the Coosa board although I would have been happier if I had chosen 5/8" instead of 1/2" and routed the edges to fit inside the walls.

Brad

[Isuzusweet]

Originally Posted by bkahler

Steve,

I installed Coosa board in my Argosy. My floor was 1/2" thick ply so I ordered and used 1/2" Coosa. There is a distinct difference between plywood and Coosa when it comes to sagging under load. From my experience plywood is definitely stronger and won't sag as bad when standing on it. I had to add a lot of 1"x2" steel tubing in my floor to support the Coosa so it wouldn't deflect while standing on it. The Coosa will bounce right back but you can definitely feel it when walking across it if it's not supported properly.

Even with the issues described above I would still use the Coosa board although I would have been happier if I had chosen 5/8" instead of 1/2" and routed the edges to fit inside the walls.

Brad

I'm looking at 3/4" for the Argosy and Minuet routered down to fit channel.

[Air345Fly]

Is pressure treated plywood a reasonable choice replacing rotted
sub-flooring?

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Isuzusweet

I'm looking at 3/4" for the Argosy and Minuet routered down to fit channel.

Ahhh, so that means the Minuet deal went through!

I should have prefaced my previous reply with the fact that I used the lighter density vs the somewhat heavier density that Tony used in his 310. I'm sure that would have helped the deflection issue to some degree.

Also in hindsight I should have used either 5/8" or even 3/4". Hopefully others will learn from my mistake.

Brad