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Keyair · 10-15-2012, 12:28 PM

I will get you what you need!

I am planning to do my pass side this week, so hopefully, I can get you some solid dimensions before you get back!

I might even remake the drivers side....
I got some 16g steel that will be better, and now I look at it, that overlap onto the window is bugging me!

bkahler · 10-15-2012, 08:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

I will get you what you need!

I am planning to do my pass side this week, so hopefully, I can get you some solid dimensions before you get back!

I might even remake the drivers side....
I got some 16g steel that will be better, and now I look at it, that overlap onto the window is bugging me!

That would be great!

I'm also considering using delrin instead of aluminum. I found a GM motorhome site Velvac mirror install where he used delrin and I'm thinking this might be a good alternative.

The one thing I didn't like about his install was where he used nuts on the outside. I'm assuming he did it so he wouldn't need to tap the delrin. Now that I think about it I may just stick with aluminum so I can drill and tap and use bolts from the outside.

Brad

bkahler · 10-16-2012, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Huge HUGE day for me today!

So today it was ON, big time!
I broke out the BIG Guns...
My PowerProbe 3 and the Powerprobe ECT2000 Short Finder!

After reading about Fred's problems with the wiring in his Argosy MH, the fact that there is no service manual available from Airstream for my 74 Argosy MH and reading about Steve using the PP3 and ECT2000 to troubleshoot his horn problem convinced me to buy the master kit with the Power Probe 3 and the ECT2000.

The horns haven't worked on our 310 since we got it and there are so many wiring issues with the Argosy that I'm not even sure where to start convinced me that rather than chasing my tail it would be nice to have the right tool for the job.

Thanks!

Brad

Keyair · 10-16-2012, 10:28 AM

Great news indeed Brad!
The PP3 is a great tool on its own... being able to supply power or ground to a componant at the flick of a thumb is awesome... The 30' cable is a bonus...

The ECT2000 has paid for itself at least 3 times already, aside from my pierced wire on the M/H, I chased a dead short on my Mercedes... Could not figure it out... and it turned out to be a random failure of a circuit board in the power antenna....
I admit that electrical is my weak spot, and having the tools that hold your hand is critical for me!

Check out the bulb connectors in the kit... allowing you to plug the ect into a bulb socket and trace the wire back to front!

bkahler · 10-16-2012, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Great news indeed Brad!
The PP3 is a great tool on its own... being able to supply power or ground to a componant at the flick of a thumb is awesome... The 30' cable is a bonus...

The ECT2000 has paid for itself at least 3 times already, aside from my pierced wire on the M/H, I chased a dead short on my Mercedes... Could not figure it out... and it turned out to be a random failure of a circuit board in the power antenna....
I admit that electrical is my weak spot, and having the tools that hold your hand is critical for me!

Check out the bulb connectors in the kit... allowing you to plug the ect into a bulb socket and trace the wire back to front!

I have a pretty good electrical back ground so I know how difficult tracing problems can be.

My goal is to create a good map of the wiring in the Argosy for ease of troubleshooting down the road. I can't even begin to imagine how much potential rodent damage I might have considering this thing has sat for years. I've uncovered a bunch of mouse nests inside so I know the potential exists.

I'm also hoping to map the 120vac wiring. As long as I don't have anything plugged into the outlets and no shore power (wait, I don't even have a shore power cord so no worries there!) I should be able to trace their routing.

Gee, more work to do

ericjan2 · 10-16-2012, 11:41 AM

I swear. I'll never complain about my rig again! You certainly have your work cut out for you. Just keep saying over and over again....1 wire at a time.....1 wire at a time!

bkahler · 10-16-2012, 11:50 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ericjan2

I swear. I'll never complain about my rig again! You certainly have your work cut out for you. Just keep saying over and over again....1 wire at a time.....1 wire at a time!

Wow, I own a poster child for neglected Argosy's!

My Argosy has lots of potential but it's going to take a huge amount of work to get it done. If this was just an SOB motorhome from 1974 it wouldn't be worth touching but being an Airstream, well ok an Argosy, it is definitely worth saving.

One of these days I'll start a thread showing progress, but not until there is some actual progress

Brad

Keyair · 10-16-2012, 01:05 PM

Starting with some info for you Brad!

My template here at the house says:
Distance between front and rear centers of two top holes: 58mm
Distance between front and rear centers of two bottom holes: 52mm
Distance between centers of top and bottom holes: 63mm

Distance from top two holes to bottom edge of window frame: 60mm
Distance from bottom holes to upper belt extrusion: 52mm

FYI... I had time to jump in and EDIT this...
LOL, this is passenger side....

MM are a silly European thing I know, but I still get confused with fractions...

dadstoy · 10-16-2012, 01:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Starting with some info for you Brad!

My template here at the house says:
Distance between centers of two top holes: 58mm
Distance between centers of two bottom holes: 52mm
Distance between centers of top and bottom holes: 63mm

Distance from top two holes to bottom edge of window frame: 60mm
Distance from bottom holes to upper belt extrusion: 52mm

Steve, what is "mm" ?

bkahler · 10-16-2012, 01:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadstoy

Steve, what is "mm" ?

Steve just forgot the & between the mm...

bkahler · 10-16-2012, 01:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Starting with some info for you Brad!

My template here at the house says:
Distance between centers of two top holes: 58mm
Distance between centers of two bottom holes: 52mm
Distance between centers of top and bottom holes: 63mm

Distance from top two holes to bottom edge of window frame: 60mm
Distance from bottom holes to upper belt extrusion: 52mm

Steve, thanks for the numbers. Now I just need to figure out how to convert mm to in

That should give me something to do tonight since there isn't any football to watch.

Brad

Keyair · 10-16-2012, 01:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkahler

Steve, thanks for the numbers. Now I just need to figure out how to convert mm to in

That should give me something to do tonight since there isn't any football to watch.

Brad

LOL, I had time to jump in and edit...

Convert the MM into metric inches....

Football?
You mean REAL Football, played 99% of the time with the feet... or that weird game you guys CALL football, that is played 99% of the time with the hands?
If it is the later... you will have time during the breaks... so the "Atheletes" have time for a rest...
Now if you are gonna play with the hands, and play with a funny shaped ball... try Rugby...
ROFL...

bkahler · 10-16-2012, 02:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

LOL, I had time to jump in and edit...

Convert the MM into metric inches....

Football?
You mean REAL Football, played 99% of the time with the feet... or that weird game you guys CALL football, that is played 99% of the time with the hands?
If it is the later... you will have time during the breaks... so the "Atheletes" have time for a rest...
Now if you are gonna play with the hands, and play with a funny shaped ball... try Rugby...
ROFL...

Yeah, REAL Football where the players all make millions of dollars a year and have huge egos

Now THAT'S Football

Keyair · 10-16-2012, 03:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bkahler

Yeah, REAL Football where the players all make millions of dollars a year and have huge egos

Now THAT'S Football

LOL... yeah even when they are married to a Spice Girl....

bkahler · 10-16-2012, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

LOL... yeah even when they are married to a Spice Girl....

I didn't know Beckham played Football? I thought he played that silly game where everyone runs around chasing that little round ball...

bkahler · 10-18-2012, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Starting with some info for you Brad!

My template here at the house says:
Distance between front and rear centers of two top holes: 58mm

2.283" Probably 2.25"

Quote:

Distance between front and rear centers of two bottom holes: 52mm

2.047" Probably 2.0625"

Quote:

Distance between centers of top and bottom holes: 63mm

2.48" Probably 2.5"

Quote:

Distance from top two holes to bottom edge of window frame: 60mm

2.362" Probably 2.375"

Quote:

Distance from bottom holes to upper belt extrusion: 52mm

2.047" Probably 2.0625"

Quote:

MM are a silly European thing I know, but I still get confused with fractions...

Ditto, only in reverse

Thanks for the numbers. Now I can start filling in the blanks on my sketches.

Brad

Keyair · 10-18-2012, 10:30 AM

If you didnt have this, here is the 2025 Velvac Mirror specs inc the mirror foot bolt hole dimensions...
http://www.velvac.com/pdf/7138002.11.pdf

bkahler · 10-18-2012, 10:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

If you didnt have this, here is the 2025 Velvac Mirror specs inc the mirror foot bolt hole dimensions...
http://www.velvac.com/pdf/7138002.11.pdf

Yep, that's the document I've been working with.

For what it's worth the mounts shown on page 1 are what I have for the Argosy and the mounts shown on page 5 are what I have for the 310.

I'm still looking for a mirror head for the passenger side of the Argosy as I'm sort of piecing that set together from parts as I find them. I got the two Argosy mounts from Walts RV Salvage in the Los Angeles area and the drivers mirror head on eBay.

The 310 mirrors I got as a set on eBay a long time ago and just haven't had time to mount them.

I'm really looking forward to having the ability to adjust them from the inside

Brad

Keyair · 10-18-2012, 01:39 PM

Brad, if you don't yet have the adjusting switch, there is a place on Ebay that has them a lot cheaper than retail!
I got mine for $32 on sale, but there are some for under $50... better than $120!

Keyair · 10-18-2012, 01:42 PM

Wow, right after my last post I spotted something....
This is some milestone.... Post 1,000 on this saga/blog...

So I better show some progress!

Stopped by late yesterday afternoon to do a few things...
Man, it was HOT there... and inside felt like 150F!

Finally fitted my little rearview camera cover..
It had to be screwed on, so I can remove it to get at the camera mounting/adjusting bolts, but I cant help but felt it looks so much better than before!

A few things I also noticed....
No timing marks on the bottom of the motor....

I can clearly see fluid dripping off the PS pump, so for sure its gotta come out..

Here is the LED i put in the scare lamp...

I had put the same LED's in the docking lamps too, but have not found replacement lenses... they are useless anyway.

The actual hole is 3 1/4" so I have been looking for something better that would fit.
These 10W floodlamps I saw on Ebay look promising....
They are waterproof, 12v dc 10W flood or spotlamp style, with aluminum cases..
Remove the bracket, and make an split adapter plate, to fit the hole already there, or maybe make them
They even make a color version that can be white or RGB mix with a remote for maybe adding some "Mood" later...