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Old 09-19-2017, 09:48 AM   #1841
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1982 31' Airstream 310
champaign , Illinois
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I bought these a couple years ago and have been happy with them. You can install them without taking the wheel off to get to the inner dually.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-19-2017, 10:22 AM   #1842
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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Good info guys!

I saw those Mayco when I was searching. Good to know they have been tested and work.

Little progress yesterday as I was thwarted by tooling and Honeydo projects! Honey is away for a couple of days at a conference, so oil change, check, and detail on her ML so she arrives safe and in style!

Now, back to Airstream stuff while she is away!

So, I have to make a die for the Beadroller to turn the edge of a panel into a radius. I have to make a tool to make the radius on the lathe, which I need to make with the milling head. But I need to drill out the head to accept a collet holder.
! So, I need to modify a tool, to make a tool, to make a tool, to make a part!

Anyone following me here? I kid you not, cos you can't make this stuff up! 😀
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Old 09-19-2017, 11:31 AM   #1843
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1984 27' Airstream 270
Scotia , New York
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
But I need to drill out the head to accept a collet holder.
If you are thinking of modifying your machine tools,
Beware of modifying the lathe/milling machine heads. They may be beefy but thinning out the head shaft can lead to serious injury if you ever plan to swing something large or using a lot of torque!
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Old 09-19-2017, 12:27 PM   #1844
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You are correct. This is a mod that many have done, and there has not been any issues. The tool retaining bolt from stock is long M10 bolt. I and others have not been able to find a collet chuck with an M10. M12 or 1/2" is kinda the most common, so drilling the upper head quill shaft out to clear the bigger bolt is needed to use them so that's what I did.
Taking onboard your comment thou, I just checked. The upper shaft is 1 1/4" diameter at its thinnest and the lower is almost 1 3/4".

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This is a low capacity machine and I do not intend to use larger endmills than it was originally designed for, but using an endmill in the stock Morse taper #3 Jacobs drill chuck was not good! I have had the end mill fall out several times because it vibrated loose, and that is dangerous!
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Old 09-19-2017, 07:13 PM   #1845
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Mill head mod went well but could not find a suitable bolt due to the fact it's almost a foot long!

Had to make one!
Two old Subaru Outback head bolts and a M12 bolt were sacrificed and TiG welded together!
Feeling quite happy with the results.
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Put the mill back together and re packed the bearings as I went. Noticed that the drive belt was frayed, so before it breaks I need to find a new one.

Planned to move on to the next wheel and was kinda shocked and remembered that I, in fact had a few hours into #1 already...
#2 wheel reminded me!
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When I went to attach it to my wheel polishing station it would not fit, so I need to open the adaptor up a touch. It's about 1/32" tighter! That needs the lathe so that was in hold too!

Got on to progressing the the Bead Roller. Added a foot switch and speed controller and did some test pieces with the power feed. Click image for larger version

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Tomorrow might be busy!
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Old 09-20-2017, 02:34 AM   #1846
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1984 27' Airstream 270
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I am curious if the aluminum wheels were stock on the 84 or an option?
Mine has steel wheels and stainless wheel covers front & rear
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Old 09-20-2017, 07:59 AM   #1847
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No idea Wayne, but mine has steels and SS covers currently. I found the Alloys on CL a while back, and think they look sweet.
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Old 09-20-2017, 10:46 AM   #1848
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Quote:
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I am curious if the aluminum wheels were stock on the 84 or an option?
Mine has steel wheels and stainless wheel covers front & rear
I think the aluminum wheels were optional or offered based on level of trim. My old 310 had most if not all of the options offered and it had the aluminum wheels.
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:39 AM   #1849
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Brad is correct!

Here is the option list from 1984.
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...6850bcc230.pdf
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Old 09-20-2017, 11:58 AM   #1850
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1984 27' Airstream 270
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Brad is correct!

Here is the option list from 1984.
https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...6850bcc230.pdf
Thanks
I guess the original owner of mine took the cheap way out!
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Old 09-20-2017, 12:31 PM   #1851
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You are not alone on that one, however, my OP decided they needed a closet where the dinette normaly was, so probably ate up the cost difference 3x by the custom work!
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Old 09-22-2017, 09:56 PM   #1852
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#2...
About 4 hours.
The polishing station works well!
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Old 09-25-2017, 02:47 PM   #1853
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The results are awesome. Do you plan on putting some kind of clear coat on them when you are finished?
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Old 09-25-2017, 05:56 PM   #1854
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Thanks Gregsch!

I'm not 100% happy with them but trying not to look too hard.
I don't think I am gonna put anything more than a good coat of wax on them. Here in CA I'm less worried about salt and moisture than I used to! I will see after so use how they stand up to the weather.

I did get one side of #3 done over the weekend but confirmed a kill on my HF Buffer... it was working fine until I kinda "caught a crab" on one of the holes, it bounced, snatched and coasted to a stop. [emoji849] alas poor buffer, you served me well!
Finished it with air tools.
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Old 09-25-2017, 06:08 PM   #1855
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RIP buffer....

Oh boy, tool shopping!
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Old 09-27-2017, 07:44 AM   #1856
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A trip to HF yesterday and a new Buffer... interestingly this one looks identical to the old one but has a red led rpm readout instead of an LCD! Upon arriving home, and using it, the speed controller looks to be faulty. It runs fine but sometimes decides that max rpm is needed regardless of what I have selected!
Refinished the convex face of #3 to a better finish...
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Then flipped it.
At first glance this side looked pretty good...
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I hit it with a light cut, and that looked ok...
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But closer examination revealed its quite pitted for some reason. I think if going to give myself a reality check and call it good!
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Also pretty much finished putting the DRO (Digital Read Out) on the X and Y axis of my little lathe/mill combo. This involved fabricating brackets and drilled and tapping holes in the cast iron bed etc. came out ok, but still some tidy up work and need to add protection from dwarf etc, to the readers. I will try to do the mill head Z axis next but it's more complex.
Should make life a little easier!
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Old 09-27-2017, 08:00 AM   #1857
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Good deal!

Having DROs on the mill makes life so much easier. I installed them on my mill a few years ago and it's night and day difference in how easy it is to use.

Brad
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Old 09-27-2017, 08:02 AM   #1858
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It may be corrosion or grain in the original casting. A good coating should help hide it
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Old 09-27-2017, 09:25 AM   #1859
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Agreed Brad!

I'm trying not to be too anal about the wheels because there is a world of difference between being 18" from my nose on the wheel polishing station and on the rig about 5' away from my point of view!
To refresh, these were only polished one side, so not only were the alternative sides not polished, but they were left to the elements for 30 years. Moisture, maybe salt and brake dust took its toll. Luckily 4 are rears, and so that 4 where the complex concave side was polished from Alcoa and so is better. The convex side is so much easier to rework because the majority of the surface is flat. However the 2 that were fronts are ugly, and also being on the front they got the lions share of heat, and brake dust.
I am finding a small electric DA sander works great and somehow the DA action spins the wheel slowly as I go.
The game plan is to have all 6 polished both sides to a standard that allows me to rotate tires at will.
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:42 AM   #1860
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Now I look at them I guess my supposition about wheel position may have flawed, but I'm still 3 done and 3 to go!
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#4 is gonna take some work!

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