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Keyair · 11-05-2011, 01:50 PM

Despite what I have read and been told, the channel that the fin seal sits in is boxed in... there is no slip in or relief area top or bottom...
Looks like someone alread hacked the rubber seal channel...

I also got my seals from Andy, and what is odd is that the one i took out is deeper than the new one.. I dont think it will cover the gap between the panes.
I am taking my Dremel over there next time, and will be cutting a bit of it out!

dadstoy · 11-05-2011, 05:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myrtle lynn

Well got it this morning. Exact one. Wow! Can't believe it. And for $17. Now I have to figure out how to set up the low coolant sensor

Got same one at O'Reilly Auto Parts today...$12.49

Myrtle lynn · 11-05-2011, 05:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dadstoy

Got same one at O'Reilly Auto Parts today...$12.49

Blah blah! :-) ok so your was cheaper even with my shop discount. o'Reilly wants my business. Look like I better start comparing prices. :-).

dadstoy · 11-05-2011, 05:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Myrtle lynn

Blah blah! :-) ok so your was cheaper even with my shop discount. o'Reilly wants my business. Look like I better start comparing prices. :-).

.

Mike Leary · 11-05-2011, 05:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Despite what I have read and been told, the channel that the fin seal sits in is boxed in... there is no slip in or relief area top or bottom...
Looks like someone alread hacked the rubber seal channel...

I also got my seals from Andy, and what is odd is that the one i took out is deeper than the new one.. I dont think it will cover the gap between the panes.
I am taking my Dremel over there next time, and will be cutting a bit of it out!

Not the best of news, since both my right and left sides are shot.

Keyair · 11-05-2011, 05:40 PM

I did some research, and i am sure this fin seal is not gonna work well on my motorhome, for whatever reason.
Digging around I find you can get them with the seal and fiber up to 1/2 inch long, and the one i have is less than that i am sure.
Will call the place monday and find out what the deal is.

Smartstream · 11-05-2011, 08:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Despite what I have read and been told, the channel that the fin seal sits in is boxed in... there is no slip in or relief area top or bottom...
Looks like someone alread hacked the rubber seal channel...

I also got my seals from Andy, and what is odd is that the one i took out is deeper than the new one.. I dont think it will cover the gap between the panes.
I am taking my Dremel over there next time, and will be cutting a bit of it out!

When I did mine I took a Dremel with a small wheel and cut a horizontal slot at the top of the vertical slot. The seal is captured at the bottom and once slid in from the top it can't go anywhere.

Yes the new seal from Inland is smaller than the old but it didn't seem to be a problem going down the highway.

I have only done the front passenger window so far and it was very easy once I decided what to do with the vertical seal. The window does open and slide very nicely with the new gaskets in.

Sorry I don't have any pictures but I did it days before we left on our trip and just didn't have the time.

Cheers, Dan

Keyair · 11-05-2011, 08:47 PM

Thanks Dan,
Looks like you confirmed what I said, and need to do!

navyspook · 11-06-2011, 11:11 AM

Have either one of you Gentlemen done the, formerly furry, channel seals? Not sure how I get the old one out (or new one in).
Thanks,
Bill

Keyair · 11-06-2011, 11:59 AM

The channel seal or "Fuzzy Schlegle" as it its known is pretty easy.
I know there are a couple of threads on this, but will add my $0.02c opinion..

I had problems with my window locks, and also fouling the front glass as they slid, so I removed them by removing the 3 small phillips screws...
DONT LOOSE THEM!

I will be posting a refurbisment thread later for the lock/latch...

From outside the cabin...

Pull out and remove the grey lip seal... if you have one still!

From inside the Cabin..
With the window closed, I would pull the seal free of its channel, as it is normally stuck down.. then push it back into place... then slide the window forward into its fully open position.
Grab the channel seal and pull it out of its channel on the vertical section. Now gently hold the sliding window in position, and pull the seal rearward and out from under the glass... Thats why I suggest breaking it loose from the glue first!
Then repeat for the top part.
Remove the seal completely.
Slide the glass gently back until its about and Inch from closed, and grab it front and rear.
Lift it UP as far as it will go, and rotate the lower edge inboard out of the lower channel...
FYI... dont try to take the top edge out as it will foul on the interior trim, and on mine for some reason, it got stuck!
Remove the glass and store it safely!

Smartstream · 11-06-2011, 12:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by navyspook

Have either one of you Gentlemen done the, formerly furry, channel seals? Not sure how I get the old one out (or new one in).
Thanks,
Bill

It was very easy. With the window closed using a sharp point or hook pull the front ends of the channel out of it's track braking it free of the adhesive. Push it back in the track,move the window forward and pull the rear of the channel out of the track.. Now using the rear half pull the channel and the window to the rear. Slide the window forward and repeat until the channel is free. You can now remove the window glass...carefully. The install is the reverse. Pull up a small section at a time and add glue.

Cheers, Dan

Keyair · 11-06-2011, 01:34 PM

My seal fit pretty well, and the only place I will add glue would be the upper forward part.

What did you do about the gutter holes Dan?
My seal has a metal lattice embedded, so you cannot cut it easily, and I was concerned about weakening the seal, so I read somewhere about using a red hot screwdriver to punch some drain holes?

navyspook · 11-06-2011, 08:28 PM

Thanks guys,
Sounds manageable...but being an AS not easy. Much like electronics and automotive systems, they were designed by people who knew they would never have to work on them. I'll check some of the other threads for pics, but your method sounds logical.

I'm hoping it will stop the leaks into the front seat floor area, or I'm building an Ark

streamquest · 11-06-2011, 08:59 PM

In a previous life, my moho had been in an accident that tore away the skin on the right front corner. It was missing the passenger side window entirely when I bought it. I actually found the window assembly on this site, and purchased it, before buying the moho, so for a brief period of time my "Airstream ownership experience" consisted solely of a window.
We spent some real quality time together, just the two of us, me and my window. Moho life was a lot simpler (cheaper) then.

When I finally rebuilt the window (passenger side), the entire unit (frame, glass, everything) was sitting on a bench. The moho had no interior door panel or trim in place (everything had been shattered in the accident, so I just had a bunch of broken pieces). You could sit in the passenger seat and look right at the exterior skin and repaired frame work and get a real good look at how it all went together.
One thing that I recall noticing about the window (before installing it) was a separation in the joint where the extruded bottom channel connects to the forward, inclined channel at the A-pillar. While you have the "fuzzy channel" out for replacement, you might want to make sure that you don't have a potential leak at this location by applying some sealant at that spot.
Definitely be certain that the weep holes are clean and clear to do their job, otherwise the bottom track will overflow. Since you'll be installing new channel, it should be easy to fit the channel, mark the spots where it covers the weeps, and cut a fair bit of material out of the way before final installation. The hot screwdriver might be a solution "after the fact". I did several tests with a hose to prove that the channel was able to drain. Ultimately, I added two 1/4" drain holes to the bottom channel that I routed down through the floor with hoses to improve drainage (but again, I had no interior trim or floor (which had rotted) in place at the time.

navyspook · 11-06-2011, 09:35 PM

Stream,
Thanks, in a former life I lived in Nantasket Junction, but got tired of White Easters. Can't imagine buying a unit with a part missing...you get my vote. Of course, at least you knew what was wrong, I have the pleasure of discovering new charms every week. I'm on the water here, so I lose hurricane season every year...now I have 2 months to get this stuff done before the temp drops.

Thanks again to all.
Bill

streamquest · 11-07-2011, 12:12 AM

Bill,

We barely missed a white Halloween here last week. Seventy five miles west of me they got two feet of heavy snow on fully leafed trees. Some places still haven't gotten their power back, and its getting pretty cold at night lately.

I'm almost two years down the road with the moho now, and still discovering new charms every day. It's the gift that keeps on giving.

Charly

Smartstream · 11-07-2011, 12:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

My seal fit pretty well, and the only place I will add glue would be the upper forward part.

What did you do about the gutter holes Dan?
My seal has a metal lattice embedded, so you cannot cut it easily, and I was concerned about weakening the seal, so I read somewhere about using a red hot screwdriver to punch some drain holes?

It has been a few months since I did the window but if I remember correctly the schlegle sits in a track with an open slot it's entire length. The slot is open to a lower chamber that is where the drains with the plastic covers live. I used a gasket hole punch to cut drain holes and yes I cut some of the metal lattice and yes it weakened the immediate area but I don't think it will be a problem as the schlegle fits tight and is well supported in the track. I may try the hot screwdriver on the next window. I also think cutting the schlegle 1/4" or 3/8" short on the lower front edge may do more than enough for drainage.

I didn't use any adhesive as the schlegle fit pretty tight in the track and the glass holds it in place in it's normally closed position. The old schlegle was pulled away from the radiused corners at the rear. I think if the stuff shrinks with age and is glued on the horizontal forward legs it may explain why it pulled in the corners. If the upper front piece starts to droop I may add some glue in that area. Only time will tell.

On our recent 16,300 mile trip the wife gave that window lots of exercise taking pictures and all the gaskets still look just like they did when I put them in.

Good luck, Dan

navyspook · 11-07-2011, 11:55 AM

Dan,
Thanks...your post brought up another question (as usual). What's the general feeling on the value of the plastic covers? When I was looking at Moho's I saw some with and some with very few covers (mine has them all). It seems as thou they could be plugged and you can't tell, whereas if you don't have you can see the gunk and clean it out.

They seem very brittle at this point and easily broken.

Bill

Keyair · 11-09-2011, 07:47 PM

Thanks for that Smartstream...
I was over today working my @$$ off, and found time to look at what you said...
You are correct... and this is VERY important..
There is an UPPER channel that holds the Schlegle, and there is a lower "chamber" below it.
This critical stuff.
This just changed my whole view of the channel and rain water management.

Smartstream · 11-09-2011, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Keyair

Thanks for that Smartstream...
I was over today working my @$$ off, and found time to look at what you said...
You are correct... and this is VERY important..
There is an UPPER channel that holds the Schlegle, and there is a lower "chamber" below it.
This critical stuff.
This just changed my whole view of the channel and rain water management.

For a little background on my passenger window problem. The diagonal track at the rear of the fixed glass was pushing out at the top. It had come loose before and someone put a screw through the outer frame to hold it. Over time this was failing. Apparently this rail is held in place by a sheet metal screw from the top and bottom. The top screw had broken causing the problem. The trouble is in order to access this screw you have to remove the entire window frame or the ABS headliner.

I called the guy who installed my windshields to take a look. He confirmed the only was to get to the screws was to remove the frame. What I did to solve the problem was a little easier. I fabricated an aluminum "T" shaped block that fit snugly in the horizontal track where the diagonal track lives. The leading edge was cut at an angle to match the diagonal. The glass guy cut away as much of the pushed out and deformed gasket as he could and we pushed the diagonal back to it's correct position. I then installed the "T" block to hold the diagonal and secured it with a couple of rivets. We then resealed the stationary glass. The "T" block is recessed enough so that the rubber trim gaskets hide it.

The reason I mention this is to warn of a potential problem and also I saw no evidence of any attempt to seal the bottom screw. All the water that winds up in the lower chamber or drain channel is flooding around this lower screw while it is waiting to run out through the drain slots. I recommend you pack this screw well with Acryl- R and or polyurethane.

Sorry I didn't get any pictures but I didn't feel right have the glass guy standing around while I was snapping pictures and I was really more concerned about fixing the window frame.

Cheers, Dan