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Old 10-21-2011, 04:21 PM   #541
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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Navy, yes, the Detector is in my box for future addition!
The Healy... Wow, yes, thats a car!
My buddy just finished restoring a '52 XK120 Coupe...
Its a stunner!
He took the GF's son out for a spin in it and I snapped this shot..



Charly,
I may have mentioned, I spent 30+ years working in the Automotive fabrication, Press Tooling, and Design field..
So I think I might be a little qualified to say that quick Photoshop job is about the best you can do without getting into crazy metal fab work or press tooling.
My plan is to do pretty much what you see there, but might need to slip roll or English wheel the curved lower portion...

I think if I was to start thinking about really reworking the bodywork, the first thing on my agenda would be the Roof A/C units...
Have you seen how much wasted space there is between the gas tank and tow hitch???
I would put 2 X 15k Basement A/C units there, and duct them!
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Old 10-21-2011, 08:01 PM   #542
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Steve,

Wow, I always loved the early YK's. I could only afford a Jag MKII Saloon, but it was a pleasure, absent Lucas, Lord of Darkness. Had two other later Healey's, but you never forget your first love. Especially because the Cypriot Police lacked radios nad only had Land Rovers. Switched to an M Roadster which lacked the leaking top.

You guys are so far ahead of me...just wasted $900 getting a local RV shop to drop the tank. They fouled up the wiring, fuel lines, and fuel pick ups, and charged me to fix it then. Cheaper if I had gone to Harbor Freight and got a tranny jack to do it myself...live and learn.

Bill
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Old 10-21-2011, 09:24 PM   #543
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Key, and all of you other alumaniacs,

If you have a spare moment, google a fellow named Baron Margo. He's an artist / motorhead in L.A.
I think you'll get a kick out of his work.

Charly
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Old 10-23-2011, 11:54 PM   #544
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Baron Margo...great stuff. Cooper 500 meets Morgan 3 wheeler meets Flash Gordon. To be selfish, i wonder what he uses to polish his works. Gotta take another look at "Men in Black".
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Old 10-24-2011, 12:42 PM   #545
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Yes, thanks for that... Cool stuff!

Small update, as I have been still struggling with this flu bug..
Streetside Drawer was stripped, rerusted, treated, and primed.
Steel was Primed with Rustoleum rusted metal primer(Red primer), and the Aluminum was done with Rustoleum Aluminum Primer(Grey).








You can see the deep pitting, pin holes and a few larger holes in the sides and bottom.

I decided not to get into welding or anything... I put tape over the outside of the holes, and just ladled on the Bedliner... it filled the holes in perfectly, and then I just removed the tape and coated the outside.
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Old 10-25-2011, 12:04 AM   #546
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Keyair, what do you use to derust the metal?
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Old 10-25-2011, 01:58 PM   #547
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Keyair, what do you use to derust the metal?
I've mentioned it before, but there is a paint-like product called POR-15. It's like paint, but unlike any paint I've ever worked with. It's a bit pricey, but it goes right over the rust, and somehow bonds and seals it. It dries to a very hard finish, and (I know this sounds crazy) actually prefers to "set up" in a moist environment.
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Old 10-25-2011, 02:51 PM   #548
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Yes, I have seen it, and used it, and I agree its great stuff.

If I had an unlimited budget, it would be the stuff to use, but as you said, it is not cheap.
I have had great results with the Rustoleum primer, and for me, the Bedliner is perfect for the drawers. I want them to be tough, waterproof, non scratch,non chip, and non slip. They will be used to store BBQ stuff, firewood, Camping gear, and tools etc.

Here is my progress on the 2nd Drawer...



A little progress on the Porch Lamp, but waiting for the LED's to arrive..

Here is the original junk perspex cover with a fresh bulb...


And my new lens... which is 2 layer diffusing(Sp?) prizmatic plastic..
I will be trying a simple LED, and a Pad LED, and see which I like best!

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Old 10-25-2011, 06:50 PM   #549
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Steve, I've got the clear plastic, have the LED replacement for the above the door light. Time to get it all put together and see what it looks like. Been so long I don't even remember what the LED setup looks like.
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:30 PM   #550
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Steve,
Looks great...I used "Extend" by Loctite on the Healey's, comes in a spray can and has worked well for me. It sounds like your stuff, if there's rust it turns black and changes the chemical make up, sealing it. If there no rust, or on other metals, it stays clear protecting the finish. Going to use your method on the drawers tho. They are now using bedliner spray in Afghanistan to spray block buildings.

Rhino Linings Industrial - Spray Applied Liner Military Applications
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:46 PM   #551
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Sorry, forgot to post..
This is what I am using to kill the rust... I have about 2 more gallons of the stuff, so might as well use it!



Works best if you can dunk the part in it for an 30 mins...
This is a part I used as a test piece for my Alfa..
Before;


After 30 mins:


Love that link for the Rhinoliner!
I figure that if my old pickup bed Hurculiner can stand a 454 engine flipping over on it, and being dragged along and out after with just the liner failing at the point of contact on the casting, which it dented/gouged the bed!
I figure its gonna do great with these drawers!
Trust me, when cured, this stuff is a SOB to get off... I had a drip on my benchtop, and had to scrape it off with a chisel!
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Old 10-26-2011, 12:51 PM   #552
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One can only hope. I have a feeling that condensation collects in that large drawer.
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Old 10-26-2011, 01:32 PM   #553
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Mike,
Here is what I know/learned about these external drawers...

Water gets into them when the M/H is just standing, as it runs down the bodyside, and drawn into the gap.
Here is proof...


I note, that we had rain, and since I put that simple D seal on, I have had no water in the drawer, and I have not refitted my ABS top., or lid yet.


Then the ABS Drawer top is a good thing... but Airstream filled the gutter with sealant, which instead of deflecting water fore/aft, directs it right onto the drawer top!
I hope this little pic explains better than my words..
Blue line is what happens... red line ishow it should work!



This is what you find when you chisel away the 1/2" deep mastic...
You can see the depth of the getter, and how it SHOULD work!
I plan to just put a thin layer of mastic on, and the a radiused gutter to keep the water off..


Once on the drawer top, it gets thru any cracks and screw holes..
Some of mine were Countersunk screws, which splits the ABS, AND acts as a sink hole, directing water thru onto the drawer!

All of the joints in the metal have a radiused mastic seal... mine was acting as a rust poltice, and had pealed up, and allowed the rust to penetrate.
I like the bedliner much better, but it might not be to everyones taste..
For the record, Rhinoliner does a Tan and Cream colored liner, in textured and smooth, and you could just treat the rust, and prep, and drop the whole drawer off for them to spray!
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Old 10-26-2011, 02:31 PM   #554
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I agree with everything said, I sealed the heck out of mine, including the back of the drawer and all splits, cracks, etc. I STILL get moisture in there!
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Old 10-30-2011, 12:27 PM   #555
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This sickness is still on me... the GF, and her son has it too...
I am functioning tho...

Transmission is OUT, and new one is IN!
Just have to replumb the Transmission Cooler Pipes, as the radiator cooler will be full of junk, and I dont want that back in the new transmission.
Took the time to drop the pan off the "New" trans, and inspect it and replace the filter... looked and smelled PERFECT in there, so I went ahead.




Old and new, passing each other...


A closer inspection of the old one tells a story...
We were told the transmission had be fixed at a dealer....
Looks like they were right...
Mopar part number dated 2007.


Aside from the metal in the pan, here is more bad news, and where it was leaking from...
Front pump/converter seal is burned toast... probably overheated..


And fluid streaking on the converter..


Hope to have it finished today!

Also had to rescue my son who blew the Headgasket on his Honda...
Why do these things always happen at once???
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Old 10-30-2011, 12:42 PM   #556
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On a side note, I did finish my Stdy Course for my Health and Life Insurance Licence!
Phew... Its been a while since I was any School other than the one of hard knocks!
Just have to pass my test now....

Now, back to the Airstream!

I bought a 8x4 sheet of 23/32 Flooring to repair my rotting corner, but failed on replacing it so far as I cannot get the old screws/bolts out..
Working on it this coming week.


My New Mirrors arrived...
Now I have to get the wiring harness/switch and figure out where they are best mounted..



Still jazzed about them!
Wondering if I should paint them silver?
Just the head?
Just the base?

Looking for a suitable LED lamp Marker/Blinker to mount on them...
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Old 10-30-2011, 03:26 PM   #557
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
On a side note, I did finish my Stdy Course for my Health and Life Insurance Licence!
Phew... Its been a while since I was any School other than the one of hard knocks!
Just have to pass my test now....

Now, back to the Airstream!

I bought a 8x4 sheet of 23/32 Flooring to repair my rotting corner, but failed on replacing it so far as I cannot get the old screws/bolts out..
Working on it this coming week.


My New Mirrors arrived...
Now I have to get the wiring harness/switch and figure out where they are best mounted..



Still jazzed about them!
Wondering if I should paint them silver?
Just the head?
Just the base?

Looking for a suitable LED lamp Marker/Blinker to mount on them...
Key,

I didn't think people in California were supposed to get sick. Hang in there.

The entire rear floor area of my moho was a total disaster when I got it. I ended up replacing everything from the wheel wells back. The rusted fasteners were impossible to unscrew. I found that the best tool for the job was an angle grinder with a cut off wheel. It is almost impossible to fully remove the portion of the floor upon which the body of the moho rests. BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SLICE THROUGH OUTER THE ALUMINUM SKIN! Somehow I managed to avoid doing this (not sure how?). The new section of floor will be difficult to slip thoroughly under the "bottom plate" of the aluminum moho wall, especially in that back corner. I used a lot of epoxy and adhesive to help bond the new stuff to the old stuff, and fill any voids. I would not describe the end product as being remotely close to a "body off" repair.

Before you engage in the battle, and assuming that your floor has a little life left in it, do you think you could drill a pattern of shallow holes (to assist with absorption) and saturate it with some resin to bond it all back together?
Feel better.

Charly
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Old 10-31-2011, 06:52 PM   #558
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Its just one of those odd colds that linger... I am about 95% now.

Here is the floor state from another angle...
Some of it is just dust, so I pulled that section out..


I am pretty much finished with the Power/water reels and compartment..


Took a look at the New Mirrors, to decide and analyze how to proceed when I am ready to do that...

Here is the OEM setup and positions:




Kinda tricky to hold the New Mirror up and photograph, but I think I managed somehow to show the size of the foot and relative mirror size..


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Old 10-31-2011, 07:07 PM   #559
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I took off the Passenger side Mirror...
Looks like there is a plate behind it bonded to the inner skin...


I started by mounting the lower fwd screw in the same hole as the OEM mirror... I will have to drill the others.


Upside...
Hides all the other original holes, but the

Downside:
Top of the foot overlaps the window frame by 1/4".
Mirror is too far forward, and window frame obscures mirror slightly.


Moved the New Mirror to the lower rear hole, which looks better, but exposes the 2 fwd holes... I could put a nice chrome bolt in them tho..


Full view from inside... Better!


Driver side fwd lower hole is good.
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Old 10-31-2011, 07:12 PM   #560
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I realize why the PO installed the tacky mirror extensions, but don't those fresh ones look good!
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