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Old 01-11-2021, 06:41 PM   #2401
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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Wont let me post the PDF of the manual as its 15mb, which is 5 over the Max for here.
I have emailed a copy to Brad and will happily email to anyone else who pmís me their email address.

Did find this statement tho... Click image for larger version

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Old 01-11-2021, 09:00 PM   #2402
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Londonderry , New Hampshire
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Posts: 234
That looks like a good reading for a diode. The markings on your
old diode must have warn off. When you get your new diode
you can compare it with your old diode and put proper markings
on the old diode and save it for a spare.
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Old 01-12-2021, 09:37 PM   #2403
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Sunnyvale , California
Join Date: Jun 2020
Posts: 62
Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
I donít think I could get 1000w of 64w panels on the roof...
But my previous test a few pages back I managed to theoretically place 9x 100w Renogy compact panels on my roof, iirc.
From there itís easy to piece together another 100w or more in 50w panels.
The 64w panels might well become static panels for placement when parked if needed
Iím also looking into installing solar panels. Given that space is at a premium, Iím looking for panels that give me the greatest power output per square inch.

In terms of total capacity, Iím not sure I would go for 1kW. It would require quite a bit of battery capacity to match the solar output. In CA during summer, you get about 8 hours of solar capacity, so 1 kW panels could generate about 8kWh of energy per day. Thatís the equivalent of 4 200Ah batteries. My thinking is that I need sufficient capacity to cover typical 12V use cases (lights, fridge, internet) as well as occasional (but limited) 110V use cases (microwave). 400 watt (2 panels) are probably sufficient for that. I think that trying to run an AC on solar for an extended period of time is challenging, even with 1kW panel capacity. Most ACs consume more than that, and you never get the full 1kW output anyways.
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Old 01-13-2021, 08:06 AM   #2404
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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Agreed.
My current plan is to do the easier oneís first, which is:
6x 100w compact panels(Renogy or HWST). Sets of 3 in my curved frames. On the 345, they fit aft of each AC unit, as shown in my pics the Compact panels 20Ē width is a great fit 3 abreast across the with if the roof. Normal Panels are 26Ē wide, and you canít fit 3 across. Visually, they blend in nicely, with no gaps or space under the edges for wind to catch when stowed.
The front is easy, with space to spare, rear a little tighter. I might mount the rear unit first as the is no fore and aft wiggle room.
My frame design is fixed now but Iím having issues with producing the curve consistently. I know the answer is better tooling, but thatís is $$$. Lol. If others want the frames the cost of the tooling might be justified tho.
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Old 01-13-2021, 08:36 AM   #2405
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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Had Dr appointment yesterday, and some honeydo stuff, but did get a look at the generator

Removed the old switch and it literally disintegrated as I disconnected it.
Clearly a problem. Lol.
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Reinstalled the diode.
Connected battery and tried the switch. There was an electro/mechanical click from somewhere in the genset, but no crank. I tried to locate the noise by operating the switch a few times, and then it stopped happening. Checked the 10a fuse in the controller, and that was fine. The wiring schematic shows a second 10a fuse but I was unable to locate it. Will try it again today.
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Old 01-13-2021, 12:51 PM   #2406
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Sunnyvale , California
Join Date: Jun 2020
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
Agreed.
My current plan is to do the easier oneís first, which is:
6x 100w compact panels(Renogy or HWST). Sets of 3 in my curved frames. On the 345, they fit aft of each AC unit, as shown in my pics the Compact panels 20Ē width is a great fit 3 abreast across the with if the roof. Normal Panels are 26Ē wide, and you canít fit 3 across. Visually, they blend in nicely, with no gaps or space under the edges for wind to catch when stowed.
Yes, I think it will look very nice on the curved frames. Can't wait to see pictures of it installed! But there's a trade off. 3 panels across will give you 300W. If you go with the larger 26 inch Renogy panels, you can only fit 2, but each gives you 200W, so you get 400W.
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Old 01-13-2021, 11:02 PM   #2407
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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Some progress.
Got the new start switch installed...,
Required filing out the switch panel opening, as its larger.
Tried to start it... nothing still.
Found one of the connectors was hanging by 1 thread.
Attachment 1

Fixed that.
Still no crank but still hearing a click when I press the start switch... for a few times, then it goes silent again.

Poked around with the Powerprobe.
Found that, despite the + lug being connected as required, there was no power at the starter relay.
Traced it back, and there was not power making it to the back side of the wire. Black wire is live, the original gold wire behind it is not getting voltage.... they are on the same bolt.

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Disassembled it and there was surface rust on the bolt...
Whatís weird to me is the bolt going thru the piece of the genset chassis that is ground.
When I disassembled it there is just a plastic/nylon top hat section washer insulating the live bolt from the grounded chassis lug. It wasnít in great shape so I need to figure out a better solution.
Anyone have ideas?

So, I bypassed the mounting temporary..., and guess what...
It cranks over now from the switch!
No spark tho... so I checked the plug, HT lead and coil and all read ok electrically.
I think maybe the ignition system is not getting power.
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Old 01-13-2021, 11:50 PM   #2408
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
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https://youtu.be/I7kYAaLwoDs
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Old 01-14-2021, 07:05 AM   #2409
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1986 34.5' Airstream 345
Londonderry , New Hampshire
Join Date: Mar 2017
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Is that connection at the frame supposed to be grounded? If so
then what are the nylon washers for?

If it is not supposed to be grounded they why not clamp both
cables together on one side. That way you have copper to
copper and no rust. On electrical connections i always use
electrical grease to help against rust and corrosion.
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Old 01-14-2021, 07:35 AM   #2410
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That connection in the picture is the main battery feed + input!
The only thing that stops it being a dead short to the hole it passes thru is the nylon top hat washer.
I found it scary.
Will post better pics today.
Thinking about it this morning, I wonder if the is space for some kind of battery disconnect switch.
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Old 01-14-2021, 10:48 AM   #2411
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1975 20' Argosy 20
Chestfield , Kent
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
That connection in the picture is the main battery feed + input!
The only thing that stops it being a dead short to the hole it passes thru is the nylon top hat washer.
I found it scary.
Will post better pics today.
Thinking about it this morning, I wonder if the is space for some kind of battery disconnect switch.
Seems like a single cable and a P-clip is in your future!
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Old 01-18-2021, 06:54 AM   #2412
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1984 34.5' Airstream 345
Foothill Ranch , California
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This is the main Positive bus bolt, and here is the ďtop hatĒ nylon washer that stops it dead shorting to the genset frame....
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If I get this thing running it wonít be going back configured like this!
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