1984 Airstream 345 owner (Newbie) need advice!

[Keyair]

Lol, Bob!
Unfortunately not, although that would be great for going in every time I need a fitting or tool I forgot to bring.
Just the RV storage place where it’s parked, about an hour from my home.

[Keyair]

After yesterdays push, I've been sketching out my water system plan... and as normal, its generated as many questions as answers!


1/ Peter... I have a question about the Accumulator..
Is yours installed on the cold water side of the system feed?


I have the Curbside pipes installed, and just have to open up a few pass thru points with an oscillating saw to allow the pipe insulation to pass thru.
Now I am looking at the pipework that needs to be run on the street side.


Looks like I will have to run the twin water pipes all the way to the Hot Water Heater and add the return line into the cold water feel line.
This will circulate hot water right thru the heater as well, forcing it to heat any returning hot water that is below the regulated temp... but also when the Solar Hot Water panel is online it will be supplying preheated water to the hot water loop.


I think it will need to put a non return valve on the cold inlet to prevent backflow into the cold side.
Wish I was in the parking lot of HD, so I can go and get all the fittings I will need!

[Magnet18]

I believe your hot water circulation system will need to do one of two things

1. The hot water needs dumped back into the tank/the low pressure side of the main water pump
2. You need a second water pump to force the circulation

The pump pressurizes the whole system, so unless you open a tap and let water leave the system (either into the grey or back to the fresh tank) - pressure at the input of the water heater = pressure at the output and no water will flow

I know you're planning a boost pump for the solar heater as well so maybe you're planning on using that and I missed it

I would think if you dumped it straight into the fresh tank your heater would slowly work to heat the whole fresh tank (maybe good, maybe futile) and if you ran it to a T on the low pressure input of the main pump it wouldn't need to draw water out of the fresh tank, and would preheat the whole supply line from the tank to the water heater

The total overkill in my mind is insulate the fresh tank and let the water heater heat up the whole tank. Use a thermostat to stop the loop once the tank reaches 80 or so so you don't burn yourself. Not that I've ever gone overkill.

[Keyair]

Mmm.
Good points Magnet.


My thought was that the hot water loop circulation would be maintained by the small 12v pump.

This one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Since the hot water loop is maintained at system pressure(50psi?), that pump's only job is the circulate water around the loop, passing thru the water heater, as it goes, and therefore heating it.
The hot water return would enter at a T fitting installed at the cold water entry port into the HWH.
Since the cold water input pipe is also maintained at 50psi, there might be some mixing of hot and cold at or close to the inlet, but I dont think it would heat the whole cold side, since the 50psi pressure at the cold feed pipe should be static.

My maybe flawed logic, says, that turning on a hot faucet would draw water from the hot water loop, and therefore dropping pressure below the preset, which will turn on the MAIN system pump to top it up, and pushing cold water into the heater as normal, this would trigger the HWH to turn on and reheat the water in the loop back to the preset temp.
Maybe I should plan to put a non return valve into the cold feed at the T?

[Keyair]

Oh, and I broke, the already broken TVS vac switch trying to get it out of the intake manifold... so I was worried about installing the new ones.
I think I found a solution...
Old NOS sockets to do the job right!

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Keyair

Mmm.
Good points Magnet.


My thought was that the hot water loop circulation would be maintained by the small 12v pump.

This one:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Since the hot water loop is maintained at system pressure(50psi?), that pump's only job is the circulate water around the loop, passing thru the water heater, as it goes, and therefore heating it.
The hot water return would enter at a T fitting installed at the cold water entry port into the HWH.
Since the cold water input pipe is also maintained at 50psi, there might be some mixing of hot and cold at or close to the inlet, but I dont think it would heat the whole cold side, since the 50psi pressure at the cold feed pipe should be static.

My maybe flawed logic, says, that turning on a hot faucet would draw water from the hot water loop, and therefore dropping pressure below the preset, which will turn on the MAIN system pump to top it up, and pushing cold water into the heater as normal, this would trigger the HWH to turn on and reheat the water in the loop back to the preset temp.
Maybe I should plan to put a non return valve into the cold feed at the T?

Your recirculation pump sounds good to me!

[Keyair]

Trying to pull together ALL of the parts, fittings and such for this plumbing revamp...
I've added the Accumulator tank that Peter suggested to the list.


One thing I had provisionally added was a dual canister water filtration system.
Most people seem to use them in the incoming water fill hose....
This doesn't make sense to me at all.
So, you remove all the chlorine BEFORE you put it in the storage tank, so its more susceptible to algae/mold/bacteria growth while its stored?
Even if you drain the tank between uses, some puddle with remain to contaminate the new water?
I was thinking to add the filter inline after the pump/accumulator so it filters and treats the water as it enters the system for use....


Am I wrong?

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Keyair

Trying to pull together ALL of the parts, fittings and such for this plumbing revamp...
I've added the Accumulator tank that Peter suggested to the list.


One thing I had provisionally added was a dual canister water filtration system.
Most people seem to use them in the incoming water fill hose....
This doesn't make sense to me at all.
So, you remove all the chlorine BEFORE you put it in the storage tank, so its more susceptible to algae/mold/bacteria growth while its stored?
Even if you drain the tank between uses, some puddle with remain to contaminate the new water?
I was thinking to add the filter inline after the pump/accumulator so it filters and treats the water as it enters the system for use....


Am I wrong?

Don't think you are wrong, but water filtration for toilet and shower seems like a waste. I like the way they handled it in the 350. They added an additional faucet just for filtered water at the kitchen sink.

[Keyair]

Thanks for the prompt input Peter.
I agree with you in principal.
However, I frequently rinse my mouth/toothbrush with basin or shower water(Rarely toilet), after cleaning teeth etc.


I think im going to get this one...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...A1T0M1TJHCGEMZ


it should have enough capacity to last me a year between filter changes and the filters are cheap enough..


"Beech Lane filter cartridges are rated to process 1900 gallons of water. If you only occasionally use the system, once per year cartridge change is adequate. For the consistent weekend warrior campers, we recommend replacing the cartridges every 6 months If you are living in your camper all year round it's best to change the cartridges every three months or so"

[Keyair]

Has anyone ever replaced the water fill port behind the aluminum flap, and if so, what worked?
Mine is weathered and cracked on the hose barb... I could fix it but replacement would be better...

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by Keyair

Has anyone ever replaced the water fill port behind the aluminum flap, and if so, what worked?
Mine is weathered and cracked on the hose barb... I could fix it but replacement would be better...

Steve, they make plastic ones or High $$ stainless steel.
Its just an inlet with a vent hose, as you know, nothing fancy about it, except the stupid hose Airstream used tends crack and his hard to clamp down.


https://odmrv.com/catalog/index.php?...oducts_id=1502

[martin300662]

Can't really recommend it as it is still to be installed, but Peanut has had the original removed/patched and I'm going to use a 316 stainless inlet designed for boat tanks.

The cap spins off but is retained on a chain so doesn't get lost.

Less than $20 on eBay.

[Keyair]

I've ordered this one...
Will report back if it fits...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Keyair]

Airstream day!
Maybe last of 2020, but aren’t we glad to see the back of that sucky year!
Filter system arrived and looks good...



Drove out to Riverside in the pouring rain.... it was 41f and snowing on the mountains behind the storage, but i busted my @ss and got a lot done.
Nice Rainbow but no pot of gold at the MH.



Got pretty much all the Curbside piping pulled and insulated.
Goodness, that was hard work.
Getting the insulation on was a bear... There is 2x red, hot water pipes together in the lower run...



Still have to find pipe clips to secure it to walls.

Cut and test fit the outer tank wall/partition from 1/2” ply. No pics taken sadly.
It absolutely poured all day.... but no leaks in the rear of the MH found... yet!


Some interesting “Projects” in the storage tho... [emoji50]

[Keyair]

So, of course, the water filter setup with the factory bracket, is too tall to go on the wall under the bed. I will have to make a new bracket... good job I know someone with a Sheet Metal Brake... [emoji3]

More items arriving for the plumbing redo.
Seaflo Accumulator.


Wondering what people think to this...
My original steering wheel was ratty....



I’d already started a test piece two tone re-cover....


Then, in a freak event, I got a perfect OEM wheel, which I fitted, and was happy to mount.



Fast forward to another event...
Picked up this riveted mahogany wheel recently from a friend.
Wondered if it would look good/better than the leather wheel on the MH?
9 hole mount, very close in diameter.
Opinions?


Comparing with my recovered wheel for ref.


Diameter: Original wheel is underneath.

[Keyair]

Got some outstanding items knocked out.
Got the second Solar frame rail curved to match the roof.


I think this will work.
I cut one end bar, and I think I will do two "T" section bars between the panels to make the structure super stiff and strong.

The frame will be TiG welded when I am happy with everything....


Panel test fit.



This frame with 3 panels will be mounted across the curve of the roof and I am planning a locking mount that can be tilted up, from either end.

A quick test with 3 panels in series gave me 60.6v.
My resident “Electrical Genius”, Magnet, says that is correct for the “Open voltage" of 3 of these panels wired in series!

[davejay]

Hey.
Where did you get this solar panel setup. Did you bend the frame. Or did it come like that. It looks very sleek. Will it make enough power as to not need to plug in. What did it cost. Is there a monitoring system for it inside the motorhome.
And where on your roof did you put it.
On our 325 the only safe place I can see is between the top air units .
Thanks DJ

[davejay]

Where did your freind find that steering wheel . Very classy looking. How big around is the wheel and how big around is the part you hold on to. We put a new wheel on ours. Even though they all got power steering. It looks to little. It does make it easier for me to get out though. Tha thats why I bought it. But your wheel fits with the AS elegance.
Thanks DJ

[Keyair]

Hi Davey!
Will respond to your questions when I’m in front of my PC so I can post links.
Yes, frame is home built, and I’m bending the frame sides myself on my English wheel.
The use of the Renogy “Compact”, is critical, as they are narrower allowing 3x panels to fit across the roof width.
I’m pleased to note you see how slick this will look, but it’s not only about looks.
Tying the 3 panels together will allow the whole assembly to be tilted up to point at the sun, regardless of how the MH is parked.
If they were individually mounted rigidly, dues to the Airstream roof curve, 1 or maybe 2 panels would be optimized, and the third, leeward panel not.
Mounting tilt brackets to individual panels might help but tilting any of them up might shade the next.
The 3 framed together with the ability to tilt from street or curb side should increase output.
My current aim is 2 frames with 3 panels each for 600w/45a for now.
Tomorrow I will try to find some 2 x 2 T extrusion. There will be 2 pieces of this per frame between the middle panel and outer panels. This will add strength and torsional stiffness to the frame.

[cesalie2]

Very impressive sir!