1984 Airstream 345 owner (Newbie) need advice!

[Keyair]

I’ve written to InlandRV about the availability and cost of a replacement black tank yesterday. Last time I enquired in 2012, they quoted me $435.
This is how my black tank looks. The leak is from the lowest point of the previous repair area. It was like that when I bought the Motorhome. Also not the patch over to the right, which looks well done, and is not leaking, but not pretty.


I’m wondering if it’s a standard size/shape.

[mayco]

"I’m wondering if it’s a standard size/shape."

Hehe, I doubt it, it's an Airstream!

[Waipio Rim]

The pipe going into the tank should be 3” ABS. Are you sure that it’s not leaking at the junction? Mine has a big hose clamp around the opening and pipe, but if it compresses the opening at all it’s just enough to set a sealant in place.

Magnet 18’s thread has some good stuff about welding his black water tank, starting at post #436. He concluded that Vulkem was used to originally seal the 3” ABS pipe at the tank opening.

[Keyair]

Next week I will be out there, so I will get down under there, and take a really good look and hope nothing drips in my eye....
New prefilter arrived today(Black)!
I like it, and one less clamp to leak.


I’m pretty sure I’m going with a wall between the tank and access door(original was MIA), and working on having the modern look with all the pipework insulated and hidden.
Just the valve handles visible, clearly labeled, and instructions. Let’s see what I can do.

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by Waipio Rim

The pipe going into the tank should be 3” ABS. Are you sure that it’s not leaking at the junction? Mine has a big hose clamp around the opening and pipe, but if it compresses the opening at all it’s just enough to set a sealant in place.

Magnet 18’s thread has some good stuff about welding his black water tank, starting at post #436. He concluded that Vulkem was used to originally seal the 3” ABS pipe at the tank opening.

Thanks!

Zooming in close on the picture, it looks like someone may have tried to fix it with fiberglass matt and some kind of black... I don't know what... Adhesive paint?

Sounds like either way, repair or replace, the first step is pull it out and see what you have to work with.

Makes a good time to replace the dump valves while you're at it

[Keyair]

Yes, it is definitely a repair.
InlandRV came back with nothing but a question about what the tank looks like... Andy retired I heard.
Next week I will be out there and take a serious look at whats involved in removing the tank... and yes, I will for sure replace the valves and the toilet as well while in in there.
Priority is to get the water supply system back functional, making any mods, and improvements as I go first.
Then, I will finish the bedroom, wardrobes, and flooring before moving into the bathroom area.
My list includes cutting an access hatch in the floor to replace the airbags, and then doing the toilet door mod, black tank repair, and shower revamp.

[Keyair]

Had a few down days as Cole had surgery Friday. Some enlarged skin tags removed, and while he was under, they said his teeth needed a deep clean. They found a cracked molar, during the cleaning, so removed that too. He will be 10 this year, but Vet assures is he is in great shape and would be fine. All went well, and after a rough first night, he seems better. Planning to have an Airstream day next week now.
In the interim, working on the house and a few Airstream items.
Tested my solar water heater panel yesterday. Worked good. More info up in the water heater section.
I’ve now figured out, with the aid of measurements, what areas of the roof can take the Renogy Solar Panels I have.
My estimate is that 9x if those panels in 3 groups of 3 will be easy. I have also identified 3 other areas that they might fit, but will have shading or other issues, and at least 4 areas that can take smaller panels. In short, I believe it is very possible to get around 1500w/80amps of solar panels on the roof alone, should one wish!
I will do some tests next week.

[Keyair]

Busy day!
Stopped by Renogy on the way out to work on the Airstream, and picked up a third 100w Panel.


Wasted no time in grabbing my ladder and playing Lego’s with solar panels!

So, because these panels are narrower, this is how they sit on the curve of the roof.


So, here we go....
Let’s see how many Renogy Compact 100w Panels I could, theoretically fit on a 345.

3 panels across the width between the front AC unit and the front Fantastic fan. 300w total.


Moving rearward from there along the Curbside...
2x more.
500w total.


Streetside view.
One outboard of front Maxxfan, and one center mounted behind. Cannot get 3 across the width there, with the Fridge vent.
700w total.


And 3 across between the rear AC, and rear Maxxfan.
1000w total.

[Keyair]

But that’s not it.
Potentially....
Outboard of front AC on both sides...
Streetside sticks out a little more than I like...


And Curbside... a little tight, and shading could be an issue, but I have an idea for a mount there.


1200w total.

Then maybe 2x forward of front AC.


1400w total.

I think that’s about it for 100w panels, but I see space for 3x 50w Panels around rear Maxxfan.
100w Panel used across, as example.


1550w/80amps total.

Now, I know I’m being extreme, and doubt I will go that far. The task was to identify all the areas first. Then I will begin filling them as we go.
Some of the areas have shading issues, and I have some ideas about tilt mounts to negate that.

[Air345Fly]

Have you looked into the bendable panels? They would seem ideal
for our curved roofs.

[billrector]

Originally Posted by Air345Fly

Have you looked into the bendable panels? They would seem ideal
for our curved roofs.

I would not do flexible panels. Their long term reliability is questionable compared to rigid.

[Magnet18]

Flexible used to be unreliable, but I think they've got that sorted from what I read

They're definitely more expensive, and also you can't tilt them if they're glued to the roof, they would suffer in the winter

[Keyair]

Yes, as much as I wanted flex panels, they are unfortunately proving to be lacking in a few areas. There are also some logistical issues to overcome. Sticking them to the roof means they cannot be tilted up to catch more sun, move them from shading, and cool them. I would have had to build a frame to do that, and in the end, simplicity won, as well as cost. These Renogy panels are the best compromise I could find.
$1 per Watt is pretty darn cheap!
Will be working on mounting the first 3 panels on a single tilt frame over the next few weeks.

After the little solar panel Tetris exercise yesterday, I got down to other business.
Wired the front vent, and that is now working.
The white roof seemed to make the interior much more pleasant to be in, but we will see. It definitely seems to have sealed some leaks, as we had rain 2 days ago, yet some areas that were regularly wet before are now dry.


I got stuck into the rear floor repair section, and made a cardboard template to make it. No tools I had with me would shift the crazy nails that originally held the floor to the frame! Need to find something!


Spent the rest of my time, mapping out the plumbing, and trying to guess where everything will go.
I did take a look at the Black tank. It looks to me like it comes out from below. The 345 tank is bigger by 10g than the 310 and smaller Motorhomes. I see a row of bolts each side underneath. I couldn’t see any impediment to it dropping straight out below, once the toilet and bolts are removed.
Gas tank is on right, and attachment frame for black tank on left. The outboard side of it is the same.

That repaired area is spongy to the fingernail.

[Keyair]

Brad confirmed that the Black tank does drop out from below after removing all the fittings!
Spent some time on the window I got from Brad some years back that I plan to install opposite the galley.
Drilled out the rivets, and removed the remnants of the original skin.

[Keyair]

Was out in Riverside on Thursday snagging a tool off Craigslist.
Stopped by the Airstream, and did a few things before heading home.
Pulled out the water filler pipe, as it looked cracked(confirmed) and the overflow/vent is either way short or snapped off.


Anyone tell me if this whole assemble is available, or if something like this can be adapted to fit?
JR Products 497-AD-26-A Polar White City/Gravity Water Hatch with Brass Check Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RCQX30..._uDISCbZAHNZJK

Also removed the front AC shroud, so I can repair the cracks in it, paint it white, and maybe pull the unit off while I’m up there next time and do the gasket.
Anyone know what plastic these Coleman shrouds are made from?



Looks ugly in there but the unit works still. If I should service anything while I’m in there, let me know what should be done. The rear condenser fins need some straightening for sure.

[Keyair]

MEK slurry seemed to work, so I pressed on!
A good scrub, followed by Aluminum Rustoleum on the lower and gloss white on the upper.



Like this.


And later this evening I bought a 13500btu Penguin 2 for a bargain price...
Let’s see if that works out!

[bobmiller1]

I just bought 2 more Penguins 15,000 MAX’s for the Snap-On truck, I put them on the 370LE and I am very happy with the performance. The original Coleman’s lasted me 30 years plus I like the idea of the heat pumps, a back up so in case the furnace craps out I’ll have heat providing it’s not minus 20 outside. Regards, Bob

[Keyair]

Thanks Bob.
Both my AC units look to be original. The front one works ok, but the rear one now won’t start. Neither looks in great shape.
The Penguin units are sleek looking and they were on my wish list, but low priority. My choice would be a 15k with heat pump, but beggars can’t be choosers for now!
But, i bought this Penguin 2 for less than half price. It’s new but a scratch n dent special , and it’s local, so no shipping. It’s a 13.5k, non heat pump I think. Model number is 640315CXX1C0.
My plan is to put this one on the front, for now, and inspect the rear one. Swap the front one to the back if I can’t fix the back one. Gotta pull both units off to put gaskets in anyhow! Later, I hope to get the 15k unit, and put that on the front, and swap the 13.5k to the rear.
Will grab this unit next week, but need to test it to confirm it’s good before I sign off.
For that, I need the interior part... distribution box thingy.
I’m baffled by it tho.... there is ducted, and non ducted, manual and electronic controls.
Any suggestions?

[bobmiller1]

OK, so at least you have the model number, that’s a start, the Dometic website sucks, so I suggest you call the good folks at PPL motor homes for clarification on which ADB ( interior part ceiling assembly) you need, some ADB’s have controls on them and some don’t using a wall mounted thermostat instead. The model number of your unit will dictate this. Regards, Bob

[Keyair]

And I thought it was me, with the Domestic website!
Looking at it with fresh eyes today, I think the manual control unit might be best for now. Cheaper, simpler and don’t have to run wires!
Assuming this works good, the $ I saved might be invested in a Soft start unit!