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Old 12-03-2017, 11:26 AM   #1981
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Thanks!
Pup is doing better, and I知 sure Monday will be fine.

I have to say a public thanks to Wayne for sending me this pump and valve.
This is huge for me, and moves me forward.
I must have the pump, diverter valve and all of its associated pipe work in place to pass the visual test. With the correct parts in hand I can test/rebuild/replace, confident I have the right parts now!
An interesting side note is that the smog pumps job is to inject air and therefore oxygen into the exhausts right at the head. This supposedly adds oxygen to facilitate post combustion waste fuel burn. It also dilutes the exhaust emissions. Reading up on this, I note that I need to disable the air injection during the Carb tuning, as it would skew the reading from the A/F meter that I will use to set this up. I知 planning to set the mixture as close to the 14.7/1 correct ration that supposedly offered a perfect burn. I知 reading that going leaner would boost combustion temperatures and increase NOX readings. In later models, a leaner mixture was encouraged and the NOX was broken down by the Catalytic converter. Hopefully, when the smog pump is doing its job, I should see a change in readings from my base line, and that will be interesting.
It seems crazy to me, that adding a Catalytic converter(I have one from my 454 Suburban) to my Motorhome would cause it to fail smog on the visual inspection. It just shows how asinine things are that adding something that reduces emissions is forbidden!
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Old 12-03-2017, 02:01 PM   #1982
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There is a thread up in the Solar section that I started a while back about flexible solar panels, and mounting them on our curved roof.

I have been having these "interesting" ideas about how to put lots of solar on an airstream, and have it look "integrated".

The curved panels look great, but mounting the directly on the roof, traps heat, which reduces output, and also the backside/leeward panel, is tipped away from the sun. I was trying to think how to cure those issues, and came up with an idea...
I have been doodling mounting the panels on a curved frame... so they match the roof curve when stowed, and therefore are aesthetically pleasing, but pivot up when docked just like many people do with flat panels. This would allow heat to escape in either situation, and improve output of the panel that might be shaded or less directly in the sun. I think building an aluminum curved frame under the panel, with a riveted, "dimple die" frame, would look super cool, be light, ridged, and functional!

This is similar to what is in my minds eye, but on a smaller scale...

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...ck-review.html

Now, think about this... a second panel mounted under the first on a "roll out tray....

I know, I know... but I dont sleep sometimes... what else is an Alumaholic brain to do!
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:33 PM   #1983
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Steve,

Its good to see you back at it, but you may be spending too much time in the desert sun. You're starting to lend a bit of truth to the old song about mad dogs and Englishmen! LOL

I've had exactly the same idea in mind for a few years now, and intend to try it out on my 325 project (if I can ever get the 370 sorted out). I've got the roof cleared of everything but the AC shrouds, so there's room to get a fair amount of coverage. The addition of a "tropical top" (credit to your cousins at Landcover) solves the mounting surface problem, and as an added bonus provides full shade for the roof at the same time. The slide out idea is cool, but is complicated by the decreasing radius of the roof as it rolls into the side walls. It would be a lot simpler on a flat roofed coach.
The next step would be to combine flexible solar with the roll out awning. That would be the ultimate in dual purpose design, and have everyone fighting for the sunniest spot in the campground. Hope the folks at Zip Dee are listening!!

Charly
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Old 12-03-2017, 03:59 PM   #1984
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You maybe right on so many of your points!
I had not taken into account that the radius is not constant until it hits the roll into the bodyside...

I am reading that these mono-crystalline cells are more forgiving of shaded areas than others. Of course, I still have the big tall AC units that make it worse... One day, hopefully I can upgrade to the low profile AC units and reduce my aerodynamic drag, to gain that 2mpg....

Here is the link that failed to post properly above...

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...ck-review.html
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Old 12-03-2017, 05:00 PM   #1985
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I thought about doing the flex panels but the cost, reliability and and PIA factor had me just do standard panels. On the 270 I have 4, 100W panels but could probably do 2 more in the rear if I wanted too.

(Please ignore the dent, I try but I cant!)

Mine are not noticeable from ground level and with a inch of air gap they do provide some shading. If I need to pull a panel it only takes a few min. to unscrew them from the mounts. I can also tweak the angles, but found it is not worth the bother.

No matter what you do for solar, you still need to climb up there and clean them occasionally.
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Old 12-03-2017, 09:10 PM   #1986
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I also debated direct application of curved panels, but I read several articles regarding inefficiency due to aging in addition to inefficiency due to heat transfer (or lack thereof). Issue was the clear flexible material the solar cells are sandwiched in oxidizes and becomes cloudy thus acting as a natural shade. Do not know if industry fixed this, but the study I read showed a decrease after a single season, and compared new to seasoned side by side with a perceptible difference. Could not find sufficient studies to corroborate. Wow... that was lengthy...

So I went for rigid panels and mounted all over the roof in an asymmetric manner to the chagrin and general abhorrence of any OCD individuals out there.
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Old 12-03-2017, 10:35 PM   #1987
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Hey Nick,

Its OK to piss them off. It's nobody's business what you do on your roof (unless of course, that it's your wife who doesn't like arrangement). LOL!
Hope all is well with the family!!

Charly
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Old 12-03-2017, 11:12 PM   #1988
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Charly,

All is great, training is demanding, with a follow on block after the completion next summer. Been spending my little free time working on DD of course.
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Old 12-04-2017, 12:03 AM   #1989
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We ended up with 500W of flexible panels. They致e been great so far. You can barely notice them from the ground.
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:28 AM   #1990
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Those are the nicest looking panels I have seen to date, and it also looks like a very clean install....let us know how the panels perform, Regards, Bob
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:48 PM   #1991
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I知 impressed with both installations!

So WayneG, true to his word shipped the smog pump assembly to me!
It arrived very well packed and safe! Thanks Wayne!

I took no time in looking it over, and the pump itself looks ok, but I plan to strip it and replace the bearings. But he was correct, the diverter valve is toast.... the vacuum modulator is NF and something is rattling around inside.... however, all is not lost!
With the correct pump assembly in hand I knew where to look for the diverter valve part #.
JY 17062646
08081

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What I find interesting is that this valve only has one exhaust outlet. I expected 2, but maybe there was a Y pipe.

So, armed with this part number I started digging....
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Old 12-04-2017, 06:59 PM   #1992
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Keyair View Post
What I find interesting is that this valve only has one exhaust outlet. I expected 2, but maybe there was a Y pipe.
The original hoses to the check valves and a tee are in the package
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:07 PM   #1993
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Here is a website that lists all of the cross referenced part numbers that spun off that original number...
It even lists it as the correct part for a 1984 P30 454!

http://www.yoyopart.com/oem/11101363/airtex-7d1097.html

The picture is the same part, but NONE of the part numbers generated a supplier or available part except one, and that part was on Rockauto, looked different and was $100 shipped.
I had 4 hours invested with nothing.

So, off I went on another tack...
I found this... visually identical part, all except one thing... 2 outlets!
It was on Amazon, NOS part, in its box, and $40 shipped... I grabbed it!
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Old 12-04-2017, 07:26 PM   #1994
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WayneG View Post
The original hoses to the check valves and a tee are in the package
Got them!
You Rock!
I can make this work.
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Old 12-06-2017, 01:59 PM   #1995
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I examined the smog pump, and it has a couple of rough spots, but is probably usable in the short term...
Because I have the actual pump in my hand, I was able to compare, and find an identical re-manufactured unit at Rockauto by A1-Cardone #32207 for just over $100
I added up the cost of bearings, and the graphite seals, etc, and it came to over $90, plus time pressing bearings in and out....

Re-manufactured pump is on its way!
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:15 PM   #1996
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Sounds like the way to go.
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Old 12-06-2017, 03:27 PM   #1997
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Actually having the correct pieces in my hand has been HUGE.
I am excited, as I feel like I found the "Missing Link"!
Thanks again!
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Old 12-06-2017, 11:03 PM   #1998
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Before Install



After Install (sorry for the lighting, it literally took me an afternoon to do the install of all the panels, the wiring, inverter/charger, solar charge controller, and various hardware for the upgrade, so this was the twilight shot.)



Roof line looking rear



Roofline looking across



Routing the Solar Power in through the fan vent to prevent another hole in the roof

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Old 12-07-2017, 02:01 AM   #1999
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I presume those are the AM Solar panel mounts?
To add a bit more flexibility to mine, I elongated the holes in the mounts like this:

This allowed me to tilt the panels a few degrees off of the center of the mounts or raise them higher or lower. So far I have left them in their center location, but it is good to have options.
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Old 12-07-2017, 06:37 AM   #2000
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Are there any issues with snowload on the panels if stored outside in the winter? I would worry about all the weight being on concentrated points at the mounts
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