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Old 10-02-2018, 09:33 AM   #1
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1983 Classic 310 Help

Have a few questions on parts for my 310.
1. VTS is out of the rubber flocked channel, I found some that is a little different sized and was wondering if it might work. 7/16w x 7/16H x 3/16-7/32 glass width, list as part # AS1528 ??.
2. Type of windshield caulk for the gasket edges to seal cracks. Can't find the type that has been talked about on the Forums.
3. The vertical gasket for the sliders is a lot thicker than the original that slides in the grove, anyone have any tricks to get it in, a lot tighter than the front windows were. Will it hurt to widen the groove a little.
4. Anyone running Hankook AH35 tires, only ones that I have found in my area except some China brand that I never heard of.
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Old 10-14-2018, 12:45 PM   #2
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Hey,
Addressing the caulk issue. I used volcum polyurethane caulk. Any hardware store shoulhave it. It's way better than silicone sealer. One it doesn't have ammonia in it. Most people don't know silicone caulk is kinda rough on steel. And it doesn't hold to anything for a long time. Plus it gets nasty looking over time. Polyurethane is denser I think it stays more flexible, and has a better gluing affect than silicone. IMO. It's harder to work with, and clean up, but, I think it's well worth the inconvenience.
Is your windshield leaking? The upper corners? Or do you just want to redo it.
I replaced both of my glasses, this year, and found the glass doesn't quite match the body. Specifically the pass side upper outside corner. I had to pull the rubber down about 3/8 inch to get the new glass in the gaskets. Either AS or the previous owner glopped it up with silicone sealer. Looked terrible. Now it's clean looking and no leaks. Hope this helps. If your going to replace the glasses, look for my post. It was really a piece of cake to do. I helper grosspoluter do his windshields. We had his in and caulked in less than 2 hours. DJ
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Old 10-14-2018, 12:58 PM   #3
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Hey,
Concerning your window rubber. I too tried another kind of rubber channel. It has this little lip on it, which pushes the channel in, and the glass won't go into the groove. I have heard that that channel for GMC motor homes will work. Look up GMC motor home side window rubber. I think gateway out of St.Louis is where I got mine from for my 78 elegant. Also I used that same side window rubber channel for my front sliding glass. The stuff I got which has the metal inside it, started to rust and break down. Pretty cheap stuff. I spray PB blaster in the channel, and the windows glide perfectly. It does wash out eventually, but the rubber doesn't break down like the metal stuff did. Hope this helps. DJ
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Old 10-14-2018, 01:23 PM   #4
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I'm using Hankooks. Ive got over 10,000 miles on them and they seem to be wearing ok.
I don't have anything to compare them to as far as "ride comfort" is concerned. I would buy them again. (might not have a choice)
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Old 10-14-2018, 04:53 PM   #5
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Davejay, thanks for the info, I had some leakage around the windshield area a few weeks ago when we had a storm move through and a flash flood that caused heavy damage in our area, my gaskets stick out also on the upper outside corners and just wanted to reseal them, I will check out the company on the window gasket.
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Old 10-14-2018, 04:54 PM   #6
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Keyair I appreciate your input on the Hankooks, only ones that I can get locally and my tire guy likes them and has sold quite a few to people with motorhomes. waiting on fellow that has six Alcoa rims 19.5 x 6 with centers and lug nuts to call me back when he gets home so I can look at them. Do you have any idea what they might be worth if in good shape.
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Old 10-16-2018, 07:07 AM   #7
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Hey Cole,
My windshields were doing exactly what yours did. The upper corners were pulling away, and stuck out. On the pass side, under the rubber, was a hole, probably for a rivet. That's where my water was coming from. When you use the Vulcan on the corners, put something on the pointed end of the rubber to hold it down, until the polyurethane is dry. It was pretty warm out when I did mine. It only took a few days. Now it may take longer. When dry, just trim the edges. Use gorilla glue duct tape. Very sticky.
Check the top edge of your glass pass side.I'll bet you got about an 1/8 inch of glass in the rubber. I had to break the factory seal almost all the way to the center of the windsheild, and pull the rubber down, to get the glass in the gasket. Caulked it, and had to tape the rubber in place because it wanted to go back to its original shape. I checked the windsheild over the weekend, still good, edges are still down on the body, and we had some really heavy rains, no leaks at all. I think the rubber may be to big, or maybe just stretched over the years. Both of my tops were leaking. Right side, way worse.
Good luck. DJ
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Old 10-16-2018, 09:57 AM   #8
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Davejay, Thanks for the info will do the same as you did and hope the leaks stop. Thanks Jim
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Old 11-19-2019, 12:42 PM   #9
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I am looking for a piece of the rear D/S lower interior trim for my 310 Classic, does anyone have or know of where I could find one. Found this while I have been redoing my 30 to 50 amp service. Keeps breaking as I touch it. Stick in the pic shows the piece I need. Posted here to minimize another thread on my 310.
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Old 12-13-2019, 02:24 PM   #10
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1/4" Black Belt line

Has anyone found where the black 1/4" belt line trim on the Classics be bought at. Going to try to get a sample of the 1.5 and the 1/4" dark gray to see what it looks like but have been holding out for black.
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Old 12-13-2019, 03:29 PM   #11
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I purchased mine during my visit at the factory at Jackson Center. They didn't have any in their store, they went out into the factory to get some.
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Old 12-13-2019, 04:21 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cole3444 View Post
Has anyone found where the black 1/4" belt line trim on the Classics be bought at. Going to try to get a sample of the 1.5 and the 1/4" dark gray to see what it looks like but have been holding out for black.
Where ever we end up finding it, itís gonna be pricey to do both the upper and lower beltline. Let alone the lower rub rail or whatever itís called. Iíve seen older pricing of about $60 for 50í. So about 4 50í rolls Iím thinking......does that sound right?
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Old 12-13-2019, 05:15 PM   #13
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I would say your right on the amount, What little bit I have found is pricey and their is a lot to replace, hopefully somebody can find it at a better price for all of us. I hope.
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Old 12-15-2019, 11:36 AM   #14
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Well I measured my 310 today for belt trim while the weather was nice, the 1/4" is around a 160' with upper and lower trim give or take a few feet, the lower 1.5" measured out at 50'. That's going to be costly with the current pricing.
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Old 01-14-2020, 11:58 AM   #15
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Microwave /Front A/C Switch

Since I have my 30 amp service changed over to 50 amp service I was wondering if anyone that has done the same addressed the switch above the sink that was used on the old 30 amp service to swap back and forth on the microwave and front A/C unit. Did you leave it as is or redo the wiring to separate the units to the new panel. Thanks for any input.
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Old 01-14-2020, 01:23 PM   #16
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On my ‘82, that switch toggles between feeding the ac or an outlet. (Like yours) I needed a 120v switched outlet to power a coolant preheater that I added to my diesel so I ended up using it as is. Not the most convenient spot for that application but since it was there, it saved a good deal of 120v wiring. Kinda nice to have a switched outlet in case of future needs.
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Old 01-14-2020, 03:25 PM   #17
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mayco,
How did you run your wires so the A/C and microwave operate. Did you tie the wires together that were on the switch ????. Thanks for replying mayco
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Old 01-15-2020, 08:46 AM   #18
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I left it as is. So, when switched one way it operates the ac, when switched the other it powers an outlet behind my kitchen counter. I simply used a 12ga extension cord plugged into the outlet, ran it under the coach up to the firewall near the heater core. That’s where my preheater is located. Cut the cord to proper length, put a new female end on it and plugged in my preheater. It’s tidy and works well.
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Old 01-15-2020, 08:53 AM   #19
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I moved the microwave to the other side at eye level, so I don't have to stand on my head to use it! Plug in still there, not used, so the switch stays on air conditioner mode.
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Old 01-16-2020, 06:46 PM   #20
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Thanks mayco and cmadmaxman for the info. Want to get a convection microwave to replace my original and move it to the sink side for easier access and use the old hole for storage and have a plug for future use.
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