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Old 01-18-2020, 10:54 PM   #21
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1982 31' Airstream 310
Columbia , Tennessee
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Here is what I did on my relocation. When we got the AS the PO had put in a convection microwave in the old microwave location under the stove.
I used the old sliding doors to make the doors over the refrigerator.
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We will be adding a pot and pan drawer under the stove when we redo the cabinet top.
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Old 01-19-2020, 03:55 PM   #22
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My old microwave is where you put yours and figured that would be a good place for a convection oven, my range has the oven built in so no room under it. Looks like PO put a taller frig in when they swapped it out so doors would be a little difficult. Biggest reason why I was wondering how the wires ran from the switch to the appliances. Looking at running a new wire down and under the shower pan and cabinets to my panel for the convection and just leaving the plug coming from the switch above the sink in the hole where it currently is. Hope this makes sense.
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Old 01-19-2020, 04:18 PM   #23
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Ajo , Arizona
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If anyone needs help/advice, I had a '83 310 Diesel w/overdrive for 10 years until she was sadly wrecked. Sent me a post or PM if I can help!
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Old 01-21-2020, 10:27 AM   #24
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You have a wider space between the refrigerator and shower than I do. There should be a plug for the charger at the bottom of the cabinet. This is where I plugged in, and run a plug up to the microwave. Take the fuse panel loose and you should be a plug visible behind the charger.
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Old 01-21-2020, 12:14 PM   #25
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cmadmaxman,
Thanks for the info will check it out as soon as it warms back up.
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Old 01-21-2020, 07:57 PM   #26
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cmadmaxman,
Got out this afternoon and pulled my drawer cabinet out and my converter/charger was plugged into a outlet inside the cabinet and also found one right above it on the wall. Answers my question for power to my convection if I can find one that will fit the hole or the microwave. I will leave my switch on the A/C from now on. Thanks for the help.
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Old 01-27-2020, 06:27 PM   #27
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I picked up my hardwood flooring today for my 310 and was curious on how the ones that have installed hardwood ran their floors, front to rear or side to side. Have seen it running both ways in motorhomes. thanks for any input and some pics if you have the time.
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:10 PM   #28
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champaign , Illinois
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Cole, I chose to run mine front to rear. I just like the look better and to me the illusion of more sq ft.

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Not sure what’s up with my pics, I tried to send a pic of my old floor too
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:16 PM   #29
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old floor running side to side
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Old 01-27-2020, 07:37 PM   #30
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Mayco,
Thanks for the pics, I agree front to rear looks a lot better, by the way great looking floor. Curious did you add the compartment behind your step up. My area is covered in carpet right now. Thanks again.
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Old 01-27-2020, 09:34 PM   #31
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That’s the hatch door to the batteries on mine. I tried loading some better pics from the rear bed looking forward towards the front but they wouldn’t load. They give a better perspective of the long runs of the flooring. That hatch door was there but falling apart when I got the rig. Thanks, that flooring is holding up real well. It’s been in for two years now.
So are you installing tongue n groove hardwood strip flooring? 3/4” thick? If you are I’ll warn you about one thing. If your furnace is located under the cabinet between the sink base and the stove...on the floor, when you build the flooring up it makes it near impossible to get that furnace out. I found out the hard way. Not sure if the ‘83 furnace is in the same location as my ‘82. Might want to take a look and just anticipate what you might do if the furnace should ever need removed.
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Old 01-28-2020, 07:14 AM   #32
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I am installing click lock laminated flooring 8mm to avoid anything like the heater being affected by thick flooring. Did you put any type underlayment down, I picked up a roll of underlayment that was recommended for sound deadening, mold etc. Hoping it will work with my flooring. My batteries are in exterior compartment.
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Old 01-28-2020, 06:35 PM   #33
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Ya I think they made the change in battery location between ‘82 and ‘83. My flooring came with a backer attached to the bottom of each piece. If it hadn’t, I would have used SOMETHING. With these new click lock floors I’m not sure what the manufacturer recommends. I’ve always used a good roofing paper under real wood floors but don’t know if that’s the right thing for vinyl/pvc flooring. I would want to install something though. Roofing paper is economical and holds up for years and years, you can also use it to feather out small differences in sub floor height. Can’t think of any reason why you couldn’t use it under wood laminate strip flooring.
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Old 01-28-2020, 07:29 PM   #34
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Thanks for the help. Never knew someone could staple carpet down with so many staples for such a small place. Trying to figure out now on what to use on the kick boards and around the commode that had carpet on them, the rest of the areas will be a fun project.Impressed on how good the plywood was when the carpet was removed.
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Old 01-30-2020, 12:22 PM   #35
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I finally got all my carpet and padding torn out along with about 500 staples. I found out I have 1/2" plywood for a subfloor so it want be too hard to repair anything that needs it. Does everyone else have 1/2" subfloor, thought I had saw some post about their motorhome having 3/4". Never know
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Old 02-01-2020, 04:51 PM   #36
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My subfloor is 5/8” Cole.
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Old 02-01-2020, 05:43 PM   #37
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Sub floor should be 5/8".
FYI As you install and work your way into the corners, don't be afraid of cutting the backsides of the click tab to install pieces, as trying to prybar a joint closed maybe impossible.; A little Titebond III works wonders at keeping the joint together if you do cut the backside off.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

PS I would next time go LVP or LVT, as it's easier to install, more durable, easier to replace a damaged piece, lighter, and maybe cheaper.
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Old 02-01-2020, 08:38 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cole3444 View Post
I finally got all my carpet and padding torn out along with about 500 staples. I found out I have 1/2" plywood for a subfloor so it want be too hard to repair anything that needs it. Does everyone else have 1/2" subfloor, thought I had saw some post about their motorhome having 3/4". Never know

Here is a little trick to manage those pesky rusted screws, a 3/4" hole saw, without the center drill. You have to apply a good amount of pressure to get it going, since it wants to wander off.
I just replaced almost 2 full sheets in the front of the 350 and had to deal with a lot of those screws and Nails. I used 23/32 plywood, since 5/8 is no longer 5/8, its just a little over 1/2". I use 3/16 x 1 1/4" masonry/concrete blue screws to fasten the plywood, since they are super strong.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Simpson-...FC25/300689039
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Old 02-02-2020, 08:43 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Isuzusweet View Post
Sub floor should be 5/8".
FYI As you install and work your way into the corners, don't be afraid of cutting the backsides of the click tab to install pieces, as trying to prybar a joint closed maybe impossible.; A little Titebond III works wonders at keeping the joint together if you do cut the backside off.

Cheers
Sidekick Tony

PS I would next time go LVP or LVT, as it's easier to install, more durable, easier to replace a damaged piece, lighter, and maybe cheaper.
Argosies, at least through 77 were 1/2". I'm guessing the 5/8" started with the Classic's.
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Old 02-02-2020, 09:51 AM   #40
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Argosies, at least through 77 were 1/2". I'm guessing the 5/8" started with the Classic's.

the 350 appears to have more than 5/8 according to some dry stuff I cut out. The stuff that got wet is a different story
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