1982 excella 280 turbo diesel

[bkahler]

The windshield glass is the same from 1974 thru the early 90s. The gasket is the same as well.

It sounds like they are pricing things based the on "if we don't know what it is it's got to be expensive" philosophy. I agree with Dan, drive it south until you find a cheaper place to replace them!

Brad

[Swillv8]

$2500usd = 3500 cad right now. If it was a matter of driving to great falls Montana 10 hrs each way that would be the closest option and as everyone knows time is money. Unfortunately I haven't even got registration and on the road yet to even think about a long haul. And also for a few years I'm going to stay local as my tow bill home was $3300 from great falls Montana to Edmonton Alberta and don't want another repeat of that.

What I think I will do is get a quote just to see how competitive a price is anyways. Also it's good to know that the windsheilds are all the same. Still curious if another member knows if there is more then one supplier in the USA for the glass?

[Smartstream]

Airstream vendors or dealers do sell the glass but I know for sure my windshields did not come from Airstream. That doesn't mean that they don't originally come from the same source. One other idea is try to schedule the install during a warm season. That rubber is a whole lot easier to deal with when it is warm and pliable.

As mentioned elsewhere the glass may all be the same size but there are different tint colors. There is a small manufacturers number code in the bottom outside corner of the glass. I have seen different codes so that may be an indication of different manufactures.

[Swillv8]

I have not been checking out windsheilds on as motorhomes. Is there a big difference in tints? Also who here has different colours that I can look at in comparison.

Sunshade
Solex
Ppg duplate
Laminated
Safety float
Asi m30 2511
Dot 18

36.5"high
48.5widE

These are my codes off my windsheild. No idea if it's original, for how beat up it is and cloudy it is I would guess it is an original.

[Waipio Rim]

We bought ours with a cracked driver's side windshield. When we got it to my in laws' place, I called the first 800 number that came up on the internet, they came and installed a new windshield with my old gasket for about $1k. They did the work in the driveway and were done in short order.

[Swillv8]

I spent this last week assembling the front end of the 280.

List of parts worked on:
-recored rad
-New rad support bushings( found some at traction truck parts in Edmonton that are similar ) these I trimmed down to make work( 10 minute fix, super easy)
-Rebuilt water pump,new gasket( went to Manitoba for the rebuild) this was 50% of new cost. It ultimately was my waterpump that cratered that cost me a $3000 tow bill��.
-"Rebuilt" alternator...... took it to 2 shops in Hattiesburg missippipi with zero luck on a fix ( bought a hitch basket, charger, electrical cords and generator to attempt long haul journey) when I got home,smith electric in Edmonton took it apart the problem was the diodes were covered in oil and crud. Since it was apart Bearing's got replaced. My Bill was 5 hours of labour. A note for other diesel owners: these guys were impressed with the build of this alternator and they figure it is a good unit.
-new thermostat/ gasket( studs broke off so that was fun drilling those out)
-transmission cooler installed on front of rad
-New transmission lines
-all new rad hoses/ bypass hose/ heater hoses
- all three power steering hose that come off power steering reservoir
- another power steering line


Passed my out of country inspection, registered as an antique vehicle. Can't wait for more work to be done!

[bkahler]

I'd say you got a heck of a lot of work done in a week! It's always nice when things start coming together

[Swillv8]

Thanks. It was assembly this week. The parts I had rebuilt was several months prior. And I'm lucky for a distributor place that makes hoses nearby

[Swillv8]

Can anyone one here point me in the right direction for my electrical upgrades? I need a new voltage regulator? And a battery islolator?according to anothertread I read and I do not know where these are. I'm quite green at any of this kind of stuff. I just got my alternator overhauled and I do not know how to use a volt meter which is another topic lol

[mayco]

I ordered my voltage regulator through Hamilton Engines in Portland OR. Many of the folks here that have the Isuzu motor use Hamilton for parts. They are great to work with and know these engines inside and out. I received my regulator in one day after ordering and I live in Illinois. But, it is the OEM, stock, regulator. Not an upgrade.

Mike

[Swillv8]

Is the voltage regulator the squarish box above the alternator approx 2.5"x2.5" with wiring harness that comes out of it? Also Where is the battery isolator?

I have an Isuzu dealer here locally I'll give them a call they are pretty awesome! They will have to bring it in no doubt but they had belts & thermostat handy. A side note, not sure who in the USA they called but boy did Isuzu grip about Airstream putting on our turbos!

[mayco]

You have a "marine/industrial" Isuzu motor in your rig. Though they are very similar to the truck engine there are small differences. Typically Isuzu truck dealers don't communicate with the industrial side of Isuzu, that's why we use Hamilton engines in Portland. They work on boat motors...yes..you have a boat motor. Soooooooo, you might have trouble trying to work with your local Isuzu truck dealer, wish you luck though. But don't be surprised if they look at it and cross their eyes.

On my 310 the voltage regulator is located on the drivers side wall of the dog house. Its black and has a 4 wire connector I believe. I think most folks upgrade the alternator to a higher amperage to get more juice. But that's mainly with the gassers. The biggest difference being that the typical Chevy alternator has the regulator built into the alternator. Our Isuzus have an "external" voltage regulator. So I'm not sure what kind of upgrade in your regulator will produce more amperage, I believe you would have to upgrade your alternator.....that might be a trick on these Isuzus.
Keep us posted on what you end up doing.

Mike

[Swillv8]

Thanks mike for your advice.

I phoned the Isuzu distributor today ( I always have that same song and dance problem with them adamant about them not dealing with automotive lol)
With the third guy on the line he was willing to make calls/ look up my block number.

Got a call back, went to the dealer, they had one in stock!and have already dropped it into the motorhome.$100 was the bill. I plan on rounding up all my part numbers one of these days for other turbo diesel owners and getting it on a thread for quick reference.

So in idle my gauge on the dash is reading zero turn on my headlights and the gauge drops into negative territory. When driving I'm charging. This still does not sound correct? (This in an improvement of what I had before.

When I looked up battery isolator I came across pictures of the unit similar to the one that is right beside the voltage regulator so I'm going to pull that in the next week or so and try to track down something similar? Behind my access panel on my grill I have a blue finned aluminum item that has 3 wires one of them being my big red one off the alternator ( I had to run red wire already) what would this item be?

The alternator I'm sure could be replaced quite easily and honestly I probably should have. I'm not sure what I'm running vacuum for? ( steps are manual ones and air just glows constant out of the line there.

Well for today I'm done tinkering around if anyone else on here can give any advice I'm all ears and always appreciated

[Smartstream]

As Mike has said our Isuzu engines are "Industrial" which includes marine, generators, pumps and heavy equipment. Many of the parts are identical to highway parts but are separate divisions of Isuzu and they use different part numbering systems. Trying to get your local parts guy to put in the extra effort can sometimes be difficult.

Showing a small discharge at idle is not unusual. Remember that the alternator is not only running the engine but also charging the coach batteries and anything that might be running in the coach.

The battery isolator is that finned aluminum box behind the grill. The center wire comes from the alternator output and the other two wires go to the batteries, one to the chassis battery and the other to the coach batteries. It is simply some diodes to isolate or prevent the coach batteries from discharging the chassis battery while you are camping. You want to be able to start the engine to get home.

The alternator drives the vacuum pump which runs the vacuum modulator on the trans, the steps, the original cruise control, and on some coaches the heater and A/C controls. If you have air moving at your step it is probably vacuum and should be plugged. Parts are available to restore your steps to automatic operation.

Part of the discussion about turbos is the fact that or engines were designed and sold as normally aspirated. The turbo engines have different piston design, under piston cooling oilers and other design changes. Or turbos are a low pressure aftermarket built by BAE. They have a maximum boost around 10 psi. while most turbos will boost around 30 psi. Our little engines would not do well with 30 psi of boost and because Isuzu designed them without a turbo they feel none should be installed.

[Jjona5]

Originally Posted by Waipio Rim

We bought ours with a cracked driver's side windshield. When we got it to my in laws' place, I called the first 800 number that came up on the internet, they came and installed a new windshield with my old gasket for about $1k. They did the work in the driveway and were done in short order.

How long ago was this? I got a quote of 3500

[Swillv8]

Not sure how to upload pictures but had to hook the 280 to a 58 Shasta that's been in the back field for years drove onto the road for a few quick snaps

[Waipio Rim]

Originally Posted by Jjona5

How long ago was this? I got a quote of 3500

July 2009

[Swillv8]

A week ago (9 days ago). Made the first local trip to make an appearance at a local campground to have a beer with friends and show the beast off that I have been working on. Trip went well! While there I was explains I seemed to have lost all power in the coach and that would be my next gremlin. My mechanic asked me if maybe I disconnected something? Yeah the harness on the alternator lol turned out!

Now I had a battery drain? I replaced the voltage regulator, charged up all three batteries so far so good.

Trip#2 just went to the lake today 160 mile round trip! Rattled down the road steadily, was able to do the speed limit on the freeway(110 km per hour)

This motorhome is going to need a ton of work!! I wonder how many others drive decrepit rigs?

[Swillv8]

It has been awhile for myself, winter was especially long; went straight to summer 3 weeks ago.

I’ve been tinkering around the motorhome charging up the batteries, and have been looking at the 6.5kw onan onboard. I hooked it up direct with a 20lb bottle and did not have luck the first day but second day she fired right up. I only have one battery hooked up for ignition ( diesel fired right up; idled smooth).

My question is- what is normal operation for the generator? What I’d like to know fis when it runs does it charge house batteries? Should all interior lights and appliances work as normal? And what components does the current go through to get distributed to lights? I’m not very educated about these systems if someone could explain in quick simple terms assuming I do not know anything I’d much appreciate it. ( also my unit has been worked on / modified over the years so who knows what’s original lol

[Isuzusweet]

Okay, I'm probably the worst person to answer your post, but here goes.

When the generator is on, it produces 110volt, just like you plugging into shore power. You will still have to be careful on electrical use, just like on shore power as your generator only puts out 30 amps on two legs(IIRC); so no microwave and A/C at the same time.

The power goes through the transfer switch in your electrical compartment which switches power from shore to generator power. If you turn on your generator while plugged into shore power, the transfer switch will automatically transfer to generator power. The tranfer switch then sends power to your cuicuit breaker box (just like your house one, just smaller), somewhere in your coach. Power is then sent to all interior 110 volt plugs, one of them will have your 110-12Volt converter plugged into it to run all remaining 12 volt systems, like interior lights and water pump.

All, unless 110 volt lights have been added, all interior lights will work through the 110-12V converter, as all OEM interior lights are 12 volt automotive variety. The microwave, should you have one, will work as it is wired in as per your house with 110 volt wiring. The 110 volt electrical outlets will also be all energized, allowing for heaters, radios, coffee maker to be plugged in.

Does it charge your coach batteries, yes, and if you're still using the OEM converter you need to be very careful with battery maintenance, as the OEM converter will keep charging all the time, eventually boiling your batteries dry. If you upgrade to a Progressive Dynamics charger with charge wizard, it will detect that your batteries are not accepting a charge anymore and will only charge them when needed.

Clear as mud?

Cheers
Sidekick Tony