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Old 06-06-2022, 11:41 AM   #21
Half a Rivet Short
 
2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Hi

I would back up a bit and do an inventory of the appliances on the RV.

Like it or not, the "target" was a 30A / 110V source. If your campsite might be supplying 220V at 6A, you are < 1/2 the "target". Over here in the US, some level of power management is normally done with a 30A plug. Here you get to turn on this or that, but not everything at once.

What's going to pull big power (all at 110V) ?

Fridge running on AC. Maybe 2A
Water heater on AC. again maybe 2A
Furnace, could be as high as 10A
Converter / charger - maybe 5A
I doubt there's a microwave in a 1990 ...
A/C (as mentioned by others ... forget about it ...) 15 to 20A, with ~ 45A startup.

It's pretty easy to come up with combo's that go over 12A.

Bob
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Old 06-06-2022, 01:26 PM   #22
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On my '82 280 I see the following differences from Bob's numbers...


Water heater as much as 10-15 amps (its only 10 years old in great condition).
Furnace maybe 5 amps
My '82 came with a microwave/convection oven, still have it and it works great.
Converter can draw over 10amps if batts low and converter goes into "high" mode.


And yes, I have to manage the loads not to go over 30amps. In summer with A/C on, I run the water heater on propane.




Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

I would back up a bit and do an inventory of the appliances on the RV.

Like it or not, the "target" was a 30A / 110V source. If your campsite might be supplying 220V at 6A, you are < 1/2 the "target". Over here in the US, some level of power management is normally done with a 30A plug. Here you get to turn on this or that, but not everything at once.

What's going to pull big power (all at 110V) ?

Fridge running on AC. Maybe 2A
Water heater on AC. again maybe 2A
Furnace, could be as high as 10A
Converter / charger - maybe 5A
I doubt there's a microwave in a 1990 ...
A/C (as mentioned by others ... forget about it ...) 15 to 20A, with ~ 45A startup.

It's pretty easy to come up with combo's that go over 12A.

Bob
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Old 06-08-2022, 10:07 AM   #23
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Eindhoven , Noord-Brabant
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What about 50/60hz difference?

Niek Iím glad your on your way to owning such an awesome motorhomes. Iím the other Dutch guy, who bought Peterís 350.

Iíve been looking into this transformer stuff too, so this discussion is very relevant to me.

Initially I wanted to go for a high wattage transformer to run the ACís. But I havenít found any info on what will happen running a dometic penguin II on 50hz instead of 60hz. So far I understand it will run slower, potentially outputting less cold air. But Iíd hate to end up with a the AC having a short life.

Other than that there are some switchover relays, not sure what they will do on 50hz or when the generator kicks on with 110v. Peter ran the fridge on his ecoflow and it showed 400w. And it wonít draw this all the time, just to illustrate how little or an issue that is.

Iím very interested in Peterís ecoflow setup as in Europe 10 amp hookup (but remember we have double the voltage) is exotic and even an electric kettle or nespresso machine is a no go without modification. campsites just wonít get the AC started.

So I might as well go for a low wattage transformer and not run the ACs for now. And go lithium later.
I might go for a 24v or 48v battery system and invert for 220v and 110v.

First I should get used to the 350 for a while and see what it really needs.
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Old 06-08-2022, 10:25 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeyM View Post
Niek Iím glad your on your way to owning such an awesome motorhomes. Iím the other Dutch guy, who bought Peterís 350.

Iíve been looking into this transformer stuff too, so this discussion is very relevant to me.

Initially I wanted to go for a high wattage transformer to run the ACís. But I havenít found any info on what will happen running a dometic penguin II on 50hz instead of 60hz. So far I understand it will run slower, potentially outputting less cold air. But Iíd hate to end up with a the AC having a short life.

Other than that there are some switchover relays, not sure what they will do on 50hz or when the generator kicks on with 110v. Peter ran the fridge on his ecoflow and it showed 400w. And it wonít draw this all the time, just to illustrate how little or an issue that is.

Iím very interested in Peterís ecoflow setup as in Europe 10 amp hookup (but remember we have double the voltage) is exotic and even an electric kettle or nespresso machine is a no go without modification. campsites just wonít get the AC started.

So I might as well go for a low wattage transformer and not run the ACs for now. And go lithium later.
I might go for a 24v or 48v battery system and invert for 220v and 110v.

First I should get used to the 350 for a while and see what it really needs.
Why don't you just fit a Victron inverter charger? They are hybrids and so take the power coming from the campground/transformer and supplement from the batteries. So you can easily have only 240v 6amp from campground (so 120v/12a from the transformer) and 'top up' to run over 120v/30a from the batteries. You select on the Victron configuration where that 'crossover' happens so can only ever pull a max in terms of watts. Then when you aren't using the high power the charger takes the campground supply and pumps that power back into the batteries. Basically means the system stores power when you don't need it and gives power when you do. Just have to make sure you have enough surge capacity in the batteries.
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Old 06-12-2022, 11:08 AM   #25
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AC frequency problems?

I would make sure that all of the devices that run on 120v AC power are rated for use with 50Hz AC power. If they are not they can overheat and will have reduced life or will cause increased current (amps) draw. That includes the battery charging system. Some may not work properly or at all. Devices that have pure resistance heating elements (possibly the water heater) should be OK if their controls are run by 12v DC.

Please be safe.
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Old 06-12-2022, 11:48 AM   #26
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Just get a step down step up transformer. A 3000 watt unit will fit you needs.
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Old 06-12-2022, 01:31 PM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

I would back up a bit and do an inventory of the appliances on the RV.

Like it or not, the "target" was a 30A / 110V source. If your campsite might be supplying 220V at 6A, you are < 1/2 the "target". Over here in the US, some level of power management is normally done with a 30A plug. Here you get to turn on this or that, but not everything at once.

What's going to pull big power (all at 110V) ?

Fridge running on AC. Maybe 2A
Water heater on AC. again maybe 2A

Furnace, could be as high as 10A
Converter / charger - maybe 5A
I doubt there's a microwave in a 1990 ...
A/C (as mentioned by others ... forget about it ...) 15 to 20A, with ~ 45A startup.

It's pretty easy to come up with combo's that go over 12A.

Bob
The furnace, though, runs on 12v DC power, so that 10A would be more like adding 1A to the converter's draw.
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Old 06-13-2022, 09:53 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DKB_SATX View Post
The furnace, though, runs on 12v DC power, so that 10A would be more like adding 1A to the converter's draw.
Hi

Mine can run on electric for heat .... of course they are not in the same sort of RV as the OP is talking about.

Bob
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Old 06-13-2022, 11:57 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Mine can run on electric for heat .... of course they are not in the same sort of RV as the OP is talking about.

Bob
Right... the context here is a '90 345LE motorhome. With a 12v LP furnace (possibly 2?)
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