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Old 07-13-2020, 07:53 PM   #1
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Twinkie: 76 Argosy Keep Original or Fresh Start

New here and just bought this 1976 Argosy MH 28 with rear twins. Wife is calling her "Twinkie". It's in decent shape but needs some work. I have seen quite a few remodels on trailers but so far almost all of the MH I have seen on here are keeping the original interior. Is it just not worth it to do a complete remodel on the MH or is there some other reason I am not finding them that way?

We bought this to remodel and use ourselves. I just don't want to be upside down on it years from now when we want something different.

Here the list of things I am already committed to improving:
- New Windshield
- New Batteries
- New Tires
- New Brakes
- New Plugs and Wires
- New Starter
- New Alignment
- New Flooring/Carpet - Subfloor is in good shape
- New Fuzzy for sliding glass and window seals (could use some pointers on if I should do this myself or not)



Anything else I should check to make sure she's road-ready?
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Old 07-13-2020, 09:19 PM   #2
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We are in the same boat! I just got my 1975 24 started (quite literally!) this past weekend.

My first question: why is the windshield on your list? The pictures look like they are in good shape, and I'm jealous, because BOTH of my front windows have major cracks.

Second comment... those tambour cabinets and green counter top are FANTASTIC. I hope those aren't part of what you're thinking about getting rid of. My cabinets are plain solid panels that just lift up, and I'm pretty envious of your sleek sliders.

My interior is in pretty excellent condition, or I'd be thinking about more aggressive measures as well. The biggest thing I'd want to improve would be insulation, but that means really going at it and ripping *everything* out, and my interior is just too nice and original to justify it.

Carpet will definitely need replaced, so I'm facing the carpet or LVP dilemma. I've always put luxury vinyl plank in my Airstreams, but I kind of like the carpet in the Argosy. I guess we'll see.

Best of luck, and looking forward to keeping up with what you're doing!
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Old 07-13-2020, 09:26 PM   #3
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Thanks KidJedi. Passenger windshield has an 12in crack. Drivers side has two big chips and it they need seals anyway. Already bought the glass. We are still not sure what stays or goes inside yet. I did notice that the ceiling plastic trim sags in some places. Not sure how to fix that.
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Old 07-13-2020, 09:43 PM   #4
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Man... now that just means we'll be racing each other when someone posts that they've got windshields!

I started researching windshield replacements about a year ago when I first started thinking about this thing, but I didn't find much.

I'd love to get something new (no chips or hazing), but who knows if that's possible. If it is, maybe we can get a discount on four instead of just two.

EDIT: Oh, wait! I see you say you already bought the glass. New or old stock?
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Old 07-13-2020, 09:48 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Candorous View Post
New here and just bought this 1976 Argosy MH 28 with rear twins. Wife is calling her "Twinkie". It's in decent shape but needs some work. I have seen quite a few remodels on trailers but so far almost all of the MH I have seen on here are keeping the original interior. Is it just not worth it to do a complete remodel on the MH or is there some other reason I am not finding them that way?

We bought this to remodel and use ourselves. I just don't want to be upside down on it years from now when we want something different.

Here the list of things I am already committed to improving:
- New Windshield
- New Batteries
- New Tires
- New Brakes
- New Plugs and Wires
- New Starter
- New Alignment
- New Flooring/Carpet - Subfloor is in good shape
- New Fuzzy for sliding glass and window seals (could use some pointers on if I should do this myself or not)



Anything else I should check to make sure she's road-ready?
Welcome to the mad-house, you have a nice looking early 28ft to start from.

Biggest omission from your list is fuel lines. The early rubber hoses are not compatible with modern fuel, and will simply disintegrate - catastrophically!

I terms of re-vamping, there are as many, if not more, rebuilds as restorations. Same issues as the trailers, in so much as no original replacement parts are available and 1970s plastic will be past its best. Expect much frustration with missing/broken trim that now has to be fabricated. Just remember you are dragging the weight of whatever you add, with a 1970s truck motor....you may have a big block but it has the power output of a modern inline 4. Every lb you add is an extra lb for that already under powered engine to drag, unless you want to change to a modern crate 501...don't go crazy. If trailer guys want to drag more weight they just get a bigger TV. The original cabinets are constructed to be light for a reason.

Oh, and remember that there is a lot more going on under the floor/frame and any layout change starts from where the fuel tank, generator, chassis rails, etc etc are and works around them.
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Old 07-14-2020, 09:51 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by kidjedi View Post
Man... now that just means we'll be racing each other when someone posts that they've got windshields!

I started researching windshield replacements about a year ago when I first started thinking about this thing, but I didn't find much.

I'd love to get something new (no chips or hazing), but who knows if that's possible. If it is, maybe we can get a discount on four instead of just two.

EDIT: Oh, wait! I see you say you already bought the glass. New or old stock?
kidjedi, I was able to find the glass new from Coach Glass. They have locations in AZ,FL, IN, and OR. Cost for both was $1425. Would have been another $400 to pack and ship so we went to IN to get ours. I had the shop that is putting them in do the order so I think they were cheaper that way. Other quote I got was from Nationwide RV and they wanted $3k+ installed.
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Old 07-14-2020, 10:09 AM   #7
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Question

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Originally Posted by martin300662 View Post
Welcome to the mad-house, you have a nice looking early 28ft to start from.

Biggest omission from your list is fuel lines. The early rubber hoses are not compatible with modern fuel, and will simply disintegrate - catastrophically!

I terms of re-vamping, there are as many, if not more, rebuilds as restorations. Same issues as the trailers, in so much as no original replacement parts are available and 1970s plastic will be past its best. Expect much frustration with missing/broken trim that now has to be fabricated. Just remember you are dragging the weight of whatever you add, with a 1970s truck motor....you may have a big block but it has the power output of a modern inline 4. Every lb you add is an extra lb for that already under powered engine to drag, unless you want to change to a modern crate 501...don't go crazy. If trailer guys want to drag more weight they just get a bigger TV. The original cabinets are constructed to be light for a reason.

Oh, and remember that there is a lot more going on under the floor/frame and any layout change starts from where the fuel tank, generator, chassis rails, etc etc are and works around them.
Thanks for the Fuel Line and the managing weight tips Martin! I think the first non-mechanical thing I plan to tackle is resealing the windows. I saw a few threads that look like you have been through that one? Here is one: https://www.airforums.com/forums/f31...ws-195087.html I didn't find anything on how to remove the fuzzy and steps to get it back in. Any tips? you can see from of the pictures that mine look original and prevent glass from sliding at all. Looks like Inland RV has it in stock.
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Old 07-14-2020, 10:36 AM   #8
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kidjedi, I was able to find the glass new from Coach Glass. They have locations in AZ,FL, IN, and OR. Cost for both was $1425. Would have been another $400 to pack and ship so we went to IN to get ours. I had the shop that is putting them in do the order so I think they were cheaper that way. Other quote I got was from Nationwide RV and they wanted $3k+ installed.
Excellent! Sounds like once I've got things running well, I'll be making a trip to visit the parents in Indiana! Thanks so much for the info. Who are you having do the install? If they do a good job, the extra 2 and half hours over to Columbus might be worth it.
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Old 07-14-2020, 11:03 AM   #9
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Nice Find!!!!!

Personally for me, I would only get rid of the carpet and put down some vinyl peel and stick floor tiles. We have kids and if one gets messed up, ruined, what have you, I only have to pull up the damage tiles. Keep the tambour doors and cabinets....but for the love of God and all things holy....make sure you keep that groovy flowered paper towel hanger!
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Old 07-14-2020, 11:08 AM   #10
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Keep the tambour doors and cabinets....but for the love of God and all things holy....make sure you keep that groovy flowered paper towel hanger!
Right?!

But seriously, I think it would be cool to really capitalize on a "tasteful" 70's chic update. I know that sounds like an oxymoron, but I think it's very possible.
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Old 07-14-2020, 03:35 PM   #11
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Beautiful Interior

(Is it just not worth it to do a complete remodel on the MH or is there some other reason I am not finding them that way? )

You have one very spectacular interior.
That was not designed by any clowns!

"There is your true value in that MH"

Even that particular carpet does the best job to moderate heat & cold and wicks any moisture to stop rot n mold in sub floor, remove it from the bathroom thou...
Seating could be reupholstered but payup for a professional job to match quality off cabinets. Tidy up all trim and consider a fine new exterior paint job.
Live with it for a bit till you understand what you really have there. Befor a terrible crime is committed

Rus
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Old 09-03-2020, 04:27 PM   #12
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anyone can redo one but it takes someone very special to keep it as original as possible. I vote save it in all its glory!
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Old 09-03-2020, 04:59 PM   #13
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anyone can redo one...
Man... I have seen a LOT of Airstreams and Argosies that prove this isn't even remotely true.

But I do think keeping a "good one" original in the right places is well worth the extra effort.
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Old 09-08-2020, 05:26 PM   #14
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Bouncy Floors

Ok. Finally got Twinkie home. Was at the shop for like 6 weeks getting new windshield and new tires. They were going to do more work but I just had to get her home and was tired of waiting. I was able to drive her from Dayton to Columbus without any trouble. Little play in the wheel. Noticed when I got home that I need to replace the steering stabilizers so that should fix it.

After going through everything the fridge did not work, the counter top had been cut into then patched over, and we wanted to take out the swivel chairs we decided to just redo it. Keeping the twin bed area the same but reupholstering the couch before brining it back in.

Floor is in pretty good condition except for the entry and the drive area that I will replace.

BUT. Iím 260 lbs and when I walk on it, the floor is bouncy. Really donít want to redo the floor if the wood is still good. Was thinking about adding a 3/8 in Marine board on top of the floor before adding a thin cork floor. I know it will be heavier but may be worth it to stabilize the floor. 1/4 inch didnít seem strong enough and 1/2 in seems like overkill.

Has anyone done this? Am I nuts?


I have searched and canít find a thread on this. Thanks
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Old 09-09-2020, 10:28 AM   #15
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With the interior gutted, you have a good "head start" on some potential problems. I would suggest cutting an access port over your fuel tank. You need to be VERY careful when doing this, but having an access port will allow you to replace the sender, fuel hoses, and perhaps an in tank fuel pump without having to drop the tank (which is a MAJOR pain). At some point you WILL need to access the top of your tank, and having an access port is a major advantage in this endeavor.

It's hard to tell from the pics, but those floor boards may or may not be "OK." You could tell more (about rot and integrity) by inspecting both sides of the flooring, but it's probably difficult or impossible to see from underneath.

If you were going "whole hog," Coosa is a good replacement option. That said, if the current floor is "ok," and to help address your flex issue, you might consider just laying Coosa over the subfloor. It's pretty much impervious to moisture, and waaaaay lighter than ply. It is VERY expensive though.

Hopefully you were careful when removing the interior and plan to reuse some of the components. If you aren't reusing anything, I would love to have those curvy tambour galley cabinets, and I've got a buddy in Columbus who could come pick them up. Just let me know!

p.s. The copper stripes/accents on the exterior are AMAZING. I hope you are considering copper accents on the inside as well. Lemme know if you ever need help with ideas!
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Old 09-09-2020, 08:45 PM   #16
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KidJedi- Thanks for the top on the fuel tank. I need to look into that. Coosa looks great but way too much for what I’m doing. Going to buy a 3/8 in marine board and see how it does just laying it down. I tried hard to be careful taking the kitchen counter out but the help I had wasn’t as patient and i don’t think the curved tambour is salvageable. I’m pretty disappointed. Couch is fine and we will put it back in. Side swivel chairs and table we will sell.

Letting the wife make all the design decisions but I’ll see what we can do about copper accents.
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Old 09-10-2020, 07:27 AM   #17
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KidJedi- Thanks for the top on the fuel tank. I need to look into that. Coosa looks great but way too much for what Iím doing. Going to buy a 3/8 in marine board and see how it does just laying it down. I tried hard to be careful taking the kitchen counter out but the help I had wasnít as patient and i donít think the curved tambour is salvageable. Iím pretty disappointed. Couch is fine and we will put it back in. Side swivel chairs and table we will sell.

Letting the wife make all the design decisions but Iíll see what we can do about copper accents.
There are advantages to Coosa board however one of the issues I had installing it in my 20' Argosy was it requires a LOT more support underneath compared to the same thickness of plywood. Fortunately I was already planning on increasing the amount of metal support but I could have added even more to make it better.

As good as Coosa is, on the Argosies with the metal floor frames being spaced farther apart than the Classic's it's an iffy proposition to use without structural changes.

Brad
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Old 09-10-2020, 07:28 AM   #18
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Hopefully you were careful when removing the interior and plan to reuse some of the components. If you aren't reusing anything, I would love to have those curvy tambour galley cabinets, and I've got a buddy in Columbus who could come pick them up. Just let me know!
I will be dismantling a 1975 24' Argosy MH this winter. If there are interior items you're looking for let me know and I'll see if they are in salvageable condition.

Brad
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Old 09-10-2020, 09:41 AM   #19
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There are advantages to Coosa board however one of the issues I had installing it in my 20' Argosy was it requires a LOT more support underneath compared to the same thickness of plywood. Fortunately I was already planning on increasing the amount of metal support but I could have added even more to make it better.

As good as Coosa is, on the Argosies with the metal floor frames being spaced farther apart than the Classic's it's an iffy proposition to use without structural changes.

Brad
I agree that Coosa has a lot more flex, but he was talking about laying something over a subfloor. Perfect case scenario for the Coosa. Especially since it would solved the problem of Coosa not holding a screw well. He would have been able to screw through the Coosa and into the plywood subfloor for interior fixtures and cabinets.
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Old 09-10-2020, 09:48 AM   #20
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I will be dismantling a 1975 24' Argosy MH this winter. If there are interior items you're looking for let me know and I'll see if they are in salvageable condition.

Brad
Thanks for the offer! I was really just hoping to save those beautiful upper/lower galley tambour cabinets. But I do love the look of those (particularly the curve), so if that's something you've got, I'd be interested (though I've never seen those in a 24). The 1975 24 I've got now is pretty "brand new" on the inside. The PO put carpet down and laid carpet all over the cockpit and up the cockpit walls, but that's about the only thing that keeps it from looking "factory new" on the inside!

The one thing I am actually looking for is the same thing everyone else is (and thus, likely out of my budget range), but if the one you're working on has the fold down passenger cockpit dinette...
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