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Old 04-19-2013, 10:13 PM   #161
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Shot a few photos of my interior area all stripped out down to the wood floor and the inside aluminum of the unit. Don't know how to send them to u as I'm not to computer savvy per-say. I would love to see as many shots of your interior before and after removal so that I can use them to put mine back together again. I'd really like to see how the rear couch/bed area goes together. The PO saved just about every piece that he took out plus extra parts that had been purchased from a donor argosy. One big issue that I'm trying to deal with is the drivers side rear corner banana wrap that was taken out in a fender bender. The passengers side is there though pretty cracked up on the under side. There is a fuel cap in place that feeds the gas tank for the Geneck generator.
In regards to the evaporator/heater box, it was literally cut out! I still have it but boy would it be hard to reinstall after such a butcher job on the removal. Again though items are not installed they are still with the vehicle.
I removed the passenger side plastic cover in the cockpit as it to looked worse for the wear. Under it was the same gauge Aluminum panels that cover the rest of the interior. NO insulation between it and the body skin. I plan on removing that portion and replacing it with what ever material that will be used to do the whole interior. It will be well insulated first of course. I'm thinking of using light EPS foam panels cut to fit every cavity that I can fit it into before the inside skin goes back on. I am also thinking of using thin wood veneer for the interior panels. It flex's well and should be easy to insert into the cabinet, closets and door panels through out the interior.
Sorry about rambling on so much but finding your post is like a dream come true for me since you have done and or experienced everything that I'm dealing with.
THANK U!
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Old 04-27-2013, 09:56 AM   #162
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Can anybody give me some ideas on how you replace the window seals on both sides of the cockpit area? I can't even figure out how to get the windows out. Where are new seals etc available for the reinstallation assuming that I can remove them somehow?
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:18 AM   #163
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Originally Posted by birdsurfs View Post
Can anybody give me some ideas on how you replace the window seals on both sides of the cockpit area? I can't even figure out how to get the windows out. Where are new seals etc available for the reinstallation assuming that I can remove them somehow?
Talk to Andy from Inland RV, he has everything you need plus an instruction sheet.
Wxbouy over in the Classic MH section just did them with a little help from me.... I close to you, so PM me and I would be pleased to walk you thru it!
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Old 04-27-2013, 11:25 AM   #164
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Originally Posted by birdsurfs View Post
Can anybody give me some ideas on how you replace the window seals on both sides of the cockpit area? I can't even figure out how to get the windows out. Where are new seals etc available for the reinstallation assuming that I can remove them somehow?
This is what I used, assuming you are talking about the sliding part of the side windows:
AS1268 Flexible Flocked Lining All-Rubber | Hi-Tech Glazing Supplies
You should have a short section on the top towards the front that you pull out first. Then you can move the sliding window forward and gently lift it into the now empty space of the channel and find just the right spot to pull the window out on the bottom. Installation is the reverse.
You also want to put a slice every 1/4" on the back of the new channel where it meets the corners. so it will confirm nicely to the curve. Don't for get to cut drain holes for the drain plugs.
The fuzzy stuff between the 2 windows is available at Airstream dealers. The stuff on the outside is pretty much a waste of money to replace. It does little to keep the water out and only lasts a few years before it shrinks and hardens.
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Old 04-27-2013, 04:24 PM   #165
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Originally Posted by birdsurfs View Post
Can anybody give me some ideas on how you replace the window seals on both sides of the cockpit area? I can't even figure out how to get the windows out. Where are new seals etc available for the reinstallation assuming that I can remove them somehow?
PM me for phone number and I can help you out. Keysir saved my bacon with his calming words of wisdom in doing it. I am 1/2 through writing up instructions with pictures.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:44 PM   #166
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OK! No upper piece was in place on the drivers side so with a little effort out it came. Now for the passenger side.
Thanks for all who replied,
bIRD
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Old 05-06-2013, 12:20 PM   #167
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Rusty floor

It appears as though my 82 24' MH has the same rusted out floor in the passenger/driver area......there is not much there to weld a new floor to....argh.....not happy about this.....an unexpected bump......but apparently, I should have expected such a thing....paula
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Old 05-19-2013, 05:39 PM   #168
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In my continuing quest to find and fix the source of all the water leaks I decided it was time to replace the old water heater with the new one. There were definite leaks from the seams of the old one and rather than re-seal the old one only to tear it out later this summer I opted to just go ahead and put the new on in.

After removing the old Atwood water heater you can see from looking at the picture below there are a lot more holes around the edge of the opening than are needed for the Atwood water heater so I'm assuming at some point there was a different brand of water heater installed. Fortunately the extra holes didn't pose a problem for the new installation.

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I'm going to have to rebuild the water heater support frame but I will hold off doing that until after I get the new floor installed.

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Yeah, I know it's a white cover

I have the original water heater cover that I will be using once the exterior is ready to go. I just put the new one in place to keep mud daubers and wasps out of things.

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I also spent a few minutes sealing the tops of the rear windows with Acryl-R in the hopes that will cure the water leak in the back. Now for some rain...

Brad
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Old 06-29-2013, 08:41 PM   #169
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Looks like a gas/electric 10 gallon? That's what I upgraded mine to, very pleased and I almost run it exclusively on electric.
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Old 06-30-2013, 07:20 AM   #170
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The water heater is just the standard 6 gallon unit. It is the gas/electric combo with remote start. Installed the same unit in our 310 and am quite happy with it.

Brad
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Old 07-13-2013, 06:45 PM   #171
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Been a while since I gave an update on progress. That's probably because there hasn't been a whole lot unless you count the 1st 454 engine startup that I've been working towards

There is still more work to do on the engine but I think I'm over the hump on that issue. Now that I know I have a working motor I went ahead and hot pressure washed the engine compartment in preparation for painting.

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I couldn't reach all of the spots I wanted to with the spray but I got enough of it that what little I have to clean by hand won't be to bad.

Once I get the painting done I'll finish installing the front rotors and brakes so I can get it back on all four wheels.

Brad
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Old 07-13-2013, 09:06 PM   #172
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While you can, run bunch of different color wires from bow to behind firewall! Probably about 15 or so and label them 1-x. You will need to leave a couple of feet on each end.

Now is also a great time to get tranny ready....have it tested... Run tranny cooler lines now and engine oil cooler lines too!

The electric fans for radiator are the way to go. You will need wiring for this and the engine sensors.... Hope you have enough wire

Oh, will you have AC from engine power? If so don't forget a fresh drier and possibly AC HOSES.

Fuel lines and filters... There are some really nice fuel filters that are better than the one I se in your pics. A water separating fuel filter like boats have...nice. Think "I Amon the road and I want to know where stuff is so I can fix if a road problem develops.

Sorry, just a burst of thoughts. I now return you to your Saturday evening.
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Old 07-16-2013, 07:23 AM   #173
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While you can, run bunch of different color wires from bow to behind firewall! Probably about 15 or so and label them 1-x. You will need to leave a couple of feet on each end.
I'm not to concerned about extra wires. I've found it relatively easy to route new wires from the engine compartment to the dash area. I will however definitely make the instrument cluster easy to remove for decent access behind it. That's what I found to be the most difficult to work on with the 310 is behind the dash/instrument cluster. Airstream definitely didn't have service in mind when they built these things.

Quote:
Now is also a great time to get tranny ready....have it tested... Run tranny cooler lines now and engine oil cooler lines too!
The current configuration of the engine stand won't handle the transmission being bolted to the back of the motor. Also, the transmission is already bolted in the chassis (thanks to PO) and I'm not so sure I want to remove it

Quote:
The electric fans for radiator are the way to go. You will need wiring for this and the engine sensors.... Hope you have enough wire
Wire isn't a problem...I recently dismantled a 345 that had plenty of wire inside

Quote:
Oh, will you have AC from engine power? If so don't forget a fresh drier and possibly AC HOSES.
Most definitely. I've had to build the entire system from scratch since the only part of the engine a/c system that came with the Argosy was the evaporator. I've had to source, the condenser, the compressor mounts, evaporator, lines, filter, etc. I had the evaporator tested and it looks like new. I wouldn't want to drive one of these this without at least cool air blowing in my face!

Quote:
Fuel lines and filters... There are some really nice fuel filters that are better than the one I se in your pics. A water separating fuel filter like boats have...nice. Think "I Amon the road and I want to know where stuff is so I can fix if a road problem develops.
The fuel filter in the picture is a cheap one I grabbed off the shelf for use on the test stand.

Quote:
Sorry, just a burst of thoughts. I now return you to your Saturday evening.
Unfortunately it's not Saturday any longer, it's a work day...
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Old 08-11-2013, 12:22 PM   #174
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Since I was working on the steering column removing the horn ring to send to Andrew (abridge01) I figured while I'm there I might as well take care of the steering column swap that I've been planning on.

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Everything was going fine until I got to the last screw holding the floor cover in place (it's always the last screw isn't it!). The last screw just spins in place which I assume means the captive nut on under the floor board has broken free. So now I guess I get to crawl inside the wheel well and see if I can grind away the nut

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We just had a huge rain storm blow through so it's nice and muggy now. Just right for working underneath a motorhome

Brad
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Old 08-11-2013, 04:32 PM   #175
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Well, using vice grips under the floorboard holding the loose captive nut allowed me to drill the head of the screw off. Solved that problem

With the final screw removed I was now able to remove the clamp just under the floorboard that holds the steering column to the floorboard. Then all I had to do was remove the two clamp bolts up top and the column lifted right out.

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I had a bear of a time getting the new steering gear coupler installed. Several months ago I ordered two steering couplers, one for the Argosy and one for the 310. The Argosy was supposed to use a Lares part # 202 and the 84 310 was supposed to use a Dorman 31015. After looking things over there was no way the Lares 202 was going to fit on the steering gearbox

Fortunately I hadn't installed the one on the 310 yet so I decided to see if it would fit. Sure enough it was the right size and configuration. Now I need to order another coupler for the 310

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GM made it easy to install the steering column. There is a hole in the back side of the steering column and a hook on the upper mount under the dash. All you have to do is hang the steering column from the hook and proceed to fastening everything in place. Of course you do need to make sure the coupler is aligned properly as you drop the steering column into place. This actually turned out to be the easiest part of the job. You can see the hook in the first picture.

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One thing that has me baffled. On the 86 345 steering column a switch or sensor was bolted close to the floorboard. The little ear sticks into the steering column housing. The 74 Argosy didn't have this sensor installed. Any clue as to what it is for?

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Brad
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Old 08-11-2013, 05:39 PM   #176
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It looks like the neutral safety switch.
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:21 PM   #177
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It looks like the neutral safety switch.
Rick,

I just looked at my 74 chassis wiring diagram and it shows a four wire neutral safety switch. And I just looked at the original 74 steering column and there are no provisions for mounting the switch. The 86 steering column had two screw holes for mounting the switch, they aren't present on the 74 column.

Rockauto.com lists the switch in the attached picture as being the neutral safety switch


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Since the wiring diagram shows four wires and this switch only has two there is an obvious disconnect somewhere! I need to see if the switch in the picture is located somewhere on the chassis. I also need to do a comparison between my chassis wiring and the factory wiring diagram.

Did GM use different types of safety switches on the P30 trucks? This really has me baffled!

Brad
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:36 PM   #178
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Brad,

I'll check in the morning about the switch. My '75 Argosy 20' MH is at work. I also own a Chevrolet dealership (next door to the Airtstream dealership), so we should be able to identify the switch on your model.

BTW, great work on your Argosy!!

Rick
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Old 08-11-2013, 06:45 PM   #179
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Brad,

I'll check in the morning about the switch. My '75 Argosy 20' MH is at work. I also own a Chevrolet dealership (next door to the Airtstream dealership), so we should be able to identify the switch on your model.

BTW, great work on your Argosy!!

Rick
Rick, that would be great! There are so many little mysteries on these rigs and at times they can be difficult to sort out.

I think I've seen pictures of your Argosy. Is it blue and white?

Thanks!

Brad
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Old 08-11-2013, 07:01 PM   #180
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Rick, that would be great! There are so many little mysteries on these rigs and at times they can be difficult to sort out.

I think I've seen pictures of your Argosy. Is it blue and white?

Thanks!

Brad
You are right about the number of mysteries on these units. My Agosy MH has been at a local trim shop with with all the interior walls removed. There are cut wires, wires that don't connect to anything, ground wires just hanging there, etc. We bought it back to our shop last week to paint the lower shower area before the new interior is installed. Yes, it's blue & white, I need update the thread.

Rick
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