'74 Argosy 20' Motorhome restoration/rebuild

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by mayco

I’ve needed to tweek my door several times in order to get the fit and latch function working better. I’ve always done it with the door in place on the rig but I sure like your jig there Brad. Good thinking. Clamps are our friend , never have too many clamps!

If the door was on the motorhome I probably wouldn't have removed it to try and fix the bends. Getting the door off can be a royal pain in the......

I'd like to take credit for the jig but I found several instances on Airforums where people had used similar methods although each seem to come up with their own methods of actually applying the bending force. In my case I used whatever implements I had laying around

Unfortunately you saw pretty much the extent of my pipe clamps. It would have been nice to have a few more on hand.


Brad

[bkahler]

I finally did the finally install of the generator exhaust system. The hold up was me not getting the mounting hardware painted. The brackets sat on the work bench for ever before I figured it's time.










Now it's back to working on finishing up the entry door.

Brad

[mayco]

Exhaust looks great Brad. I wasn’t able to get mine tucked up that far and out of sight. I compared pictures of the old exhaust and the new install and they looked the same but it seems low to me. I’ve traveled with it and haven’t run into any clearance problems but it would look much better if I were able to get it up further like your install there.

[bkahler]

I fiddled around for days playing with angles and lengths trying to get everything tucked up tight. The bends are taken care of with separate fittings because the stainless pipe I used is thicker than typical exhaust pipe. Once I had everything aligned I marked the connections and took the whole system to my local fab shop where they welded the joints.

I'm quite happy with the results. I may cut a little more off the tail pipe so it doesn't stick out quite as far past the bumper but I'm going to wait to decide that. It's easy to cut but harder to put back

Brad

[dadstoy]

Hi Brad. Have you run your generator for any period of time while parked with the exhaust pipe located where you have it? I can't run my generator for even 5 min with it not filling the inside with exhaust fumes and setting off the co2 detector. I'm sure you hate people giving you suggestions after the fact just as much as I do...rolling my eyes at myself right now...but here goes! LOL. I would locate the exhaust in a position that allowed me to connect a "gen-turi" to the exhaust when needed/parked to route the exhaust up above the roof.


They actually work and my home made one does the job well. Just wish I didn't have to mount it to the awning arms when I use it.

[bkahler]

Morning Dean,

I certainly don't mind suggestions. In fact I love copying other people's work!

That's an interesting observation about your exhaust fumes. On my old 310 the generator exhaust was routed a little farther around towards the side of the coach by maybe a foot or so but I don't recall ever noticing exhaust fumes inside the coach.

The tip that I have on the exhaust is decorative only and I wanted it to point down. Hmm, now that I mention that the exhaust on the 310 didn't angle downward. I'll have to run a test one of these days by leaving the generator running for a while and then see how the inside smells.

I could easily add a gen-turi setup if need be by removing the tip and fabricating some removable support braces.

Thanks for the heads up!

Brad

[OTRA15]

Thanks for the updates . . . inspiring work!

If we ever want to "motorize" our FC20, your model is what we would hope to find.

Happy trails,

[bkahler]

Yesterday was a day were I was rendering large scrap items into smaller scrap items so they would fit in my truck for a trip to the local dump. The Argosy was parked just a few feet away and I heard what I thought were the electric steps cycling. I turned around and sure enough the steps were extended!

I have disconnect switches on both batteries with trickle chargers connected to each battery to keep them topped off. However, earlier in the day I had closed the switches and started the 454 and the generator to let them run for a while.

I hadn't gotten around to opening the disconnect switches yet so when I heard the steps extend out it reminded me that I hadn't opened those switches yet.

What had me baffled though was why did the steps extend? After thinking about it for a few minutes I went over and banged on the door near where the closed switch is located and the steps retracted!

I came to the conclusion that the sun had been beating down on the coach all day and the sun had just recently dropped below the tree line placing the Argosy in the shade. My guess is the shell shifted just enough from the temperature change to pull the door away from the switch just enough for the steps to cycle.

When I was installing the steps I had had to place a 1/8" thick plate on the edge of the door to act as an actuator because the door wouldn't activate the switch when closed. I guess I need to make the plate just a little thicker

I'm also happy to report the 454 and the generator both fired right up, no hesitation even after sitting for a couple of months.



Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

........ I turned around and sure enough the steps were extended!
....

Brad

I bet that spooked you. Every once in a while I walk by the 350 and here some pop, some piece of metal expanding/contracting, usually related to temperature changes. The most puzzling is the Air suspension system. It will hold pressure for days, both the tank and the airbag side and then there is a change in humidity or temperature causing the pressure to drop.

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

I bet that spooked you. Every once in a while I walk by the 350 and here some pop, some piece of metal expanding/contracting, usually related to temperature changes. The most puzzling is the Air suspension system. It will hold pressure for days, both the tank and the airbag side and then there is a change in humidity or temperature causing the pressure to drop.

The Argosy might have been trying to tell me to hurry up and finish the rebuild

Considering your's is 35 feet longer than mine I would expect a lot more popping and creaking going on!

[bkahler]

I noticed the other day when I started the engine to exercise it the dash voltage meter was reading 12.5 volts and slowly dropping. I got my hand held meter out and checked the alternator output and by that time it was 12.2 volts. Ok, bad alternator.

This morning I picked up a replacement alternator from Advance Auto and pulled the doghouse cover to start the remove and replace job. As I was loosening the tensioning bolt on the alternator I noticed that the belt looked a little loose. Sure enough it was so loose the pulley would spin freely

Don't ask me why I didn't check that while I was checking the voltage. For some reason it didn't dawn on me that it might be something other than the alternator. It was a used alternator I pulled from the scrap yard to use for fitment purposes while I was building the engine. I just assumed it was finally dead. And, I was pretty sure back when I was assembling the front of the motor I had tightened the belt. I guess not......

So instead of swapping the alternator I tensioned the belt and started the engine. Now it's reading 14.4 volts. So much for needing a replacement alternator!

The good news is I now have a nice shiny new alternator to carry as a spare.......




Brad

[chevy2man]

Originally Posted by bkahler

I noticed the other day when I started the engine to exercise it the dash voltage meter was reading 12.5 volts and slowly dropping. I got my hand held meter out and checked the alternator output and by that time it was 12.2 volts. Ok, bad alternator.



This morning I picked up a replacement alternator from Advance Auto and pulled the doghouse cover to start the remove and replace job. As I was loosening the tensioning bolt on the alternator I noticed that the belt looked a little loose. Sure enough it was so loose the pulley would spin freely



Don't ask me why I didn't check that while I was checking the voltage. For some reason it didn't dawn on me that it might be something other than the alternator. It was a used alternator I pulled from the scrap yard to use for fitment purposes while I was building the engine. I just assumed it was finally dead. And, I was pretty sure back when I was assembling the front of the motor I had tightened the belt. I guess not......



So instead of swapping the alternator I tensioned the belt and started the engine. Now it's reading 14.4 volts. So much for needing a replacement alternator!



The good news is I now have a nice shiny new alternator to carry as a spare.......



Attachment 383295





Brad

Not a bad idea to have a spare. [emoji6]

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

... Now it's reading 14.4 volts. So much for needing a replacement alternator!

...
Brad

Brad's Post about 14.4 V made me take a second look at my charging system and Brad was so kind to brainstorm with me in between feeding Tommie and prob mowing more grass.

The end result was that my system charges at 13.5 Volt at the isolator via a 4 gauge wire, and outputs 12.8 at the two battery terminals for a net loss of .7 volt due to the Isolator diodes. I may consider changing to Victron Energy Argo FET Battery Isolator or a Blue sea 7622 ML-ACR Charging relay per Brads recommendation.
I am just wondering if I have to go with the 200 amp FET or if a 100 amp would do considering my 105amp alternator

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by chevy2man

Not a bad idea to have a spare. [emoji6]

I already have a power steering pump and PCM for spares and plan on getting a starter as well. I had always planned on having a spare alternator but hadn't planned on buying it until I was ready to travel. I guess I just bought it a littler earlier than planned

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Brad's Post about 14.4 V made me take a second look at my charging system and Brad was so kind to brainstorm with me in between feeding Tommie and prob mowing more grass.

I still need to mow the middle pasture one more time but haven't been able to force myself to that point yet

[Magnet18]

Originally Posted by PeterH-Airstreamer

Brad's Post about 14.4 V made me take a second look at my charging system and Brad was so kind to brainstorm with me in between feeding Tommie and prob mowing more grass.

The end result was that my system charges at 13.5 Volt at the isolator via a 4 gauge wire, and outputs 12.8 at the two battery terminals for a net loss of .7 volt due to the Isolator diodes. I may consider changing to Victron Energy Argo FET Battery Isolator or a Blue sea 7622 ML-ACR Charging relay per Brads recommendation.
I am just wondering if I have to go with the 200 amp FET or if a 100 amp would do considering my 105amp alternator

Have you measured to see if your alternator actually puts out 105A? Would you ever want a bigger alternator for any reason?

It will certainly work... The question is for how long. I'd guess on the order of getting a few years out of it instead of getting 30+ years out of it.

As an electrical engineer, all I can say for certain is that bigger = better

[bkahler]

Originally Posted by Magnet18

Have you measured to see if your alternator actually puts out 105A? Would you ever want a bigger alternator for any reason?

It will certainly work... The question is for how long. I'd guess on the order of getting a few years out of it instead of getting 30+ years out of it.

As an electrical engineer, all I can say for certain is that bigger = better

From what I've noticed over the years, the lower current alternators are the ones that give up the ghost early. Since the alternator charges both batteries at times there can be a huge demand for current for short periods of time to keep things going, especially at night. A low current alternator can't handle the spikes all that well.

LEDs have certainly helped lower current draw but there are still higher demands from a motorhome that there would be for say a box truck.

Just my thoughts on the subject......

[bkahler]

I think I'm going to give Peter's recommended cockpit window track a try and see if it helps. I replaced the original Schlagel with the steel backed stuff from Out of Doors Mart and I'm just not happy with how the windows work, or should I say don't work.




Brad

[PeterH-350LE]

Originally Posted by bkahler

I think I'm going to give Peter's recommended cockpit window track a try and see if it helps. I replaced the original Schlagel with the steel backed stuff from Out of Doors Mart and I'm just not happy with how the windows work, or should I say don't work.

Attachment 383564


Brad

Lets hear how it works out for you. Nice thing about the AS1268 is the option to trim it a little in super tight channel spots, like where the vertical window divider meets the upper channel.

Despite the curved vertical window frame on my 350, both of my windows work real well.

[dadstoy]

I spent a lot of money on a 200 amp alternator for the MH some years back. It lasted one year. It died on the way to Burning Man. Had to cable the coach batteries to the engine batt to keep going.



When I got back, I found a alternator shop in Red Bluff. Gave him the burnt out alter and bought a rebuilt 105amp from him that he rebuild with "better parts", at least that is what he said. It still works. Squeaks sometimes when engine is cold. Don't know if that is a loose belt or the alternator.



I'll never spend money on any so called "high performance" part ever again for MH or any vehicle. It has never been worth it for me.



Now I do have a new never used 200 amp alternator sitting in the garage that was supposed to be installed by the builder of my Isuzu box truck, but they didn't have the "right" pigtail to make it work. Pretty lazy people that couldn't figure that one out on a $100k truck! It is basically the same as the GM alter so maybe some day I will see if it just might "fit" on the MH.



There is nothing special about the alternator on the Isuzu. Looks like any other alternator from the old days and no special wiring either.



The stock alternator on the Isuzu box truck is I believe a 90 amp. Not really enough to keep the engine and box batteries charged all day. I might have said this before, the Isuzu stock alternator went out a couple year ago. The alternator, which is nothing special, is $1600 (part only). I had it replaced under warranty. What a rip off just for a commercial truck!

Originally Posted by bkahler

From what I've noticed over the years, the lower current alternators are the ones that give up the ghost early. Since the alternator charges both batteries at times there can be a huge demand for current for short periods of time to keep things going, especially at night. A low current alternator can't handle the spikes all that well.

LEDs have certainly helped lower current draw but there are still higher demands from a motorhome that there would be for say a box truck.

Just my thoughts on the subject......