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Old 05-20-2017, 06:42 AM   #1001
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Ive heard of many folks using the gravity method to bleed the brakes but have never tried it myself......frankly, I questioned whether it would really work. Pessimistic. WOW! That is very cool Brad. How did you manage to keep the MC reservoir from running out of fluid? Did you just keep checking it? I wonder if this would work on a longer chassis like mine.


Mike
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:27 AM   #1002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mayco View Post
Ive heard of many folks using the gravity method to bleed the brakes but have never tried it myself......frankly, I questioned whether it would really work. Pessimistic. WOW! That is very cool Brad. How did you manage to keep the MC reservoir from running out of fluid? Did you just keep checking it?
I had my doubts at first but figured I had nothing to lose by trying it. I was definitely surprised at how quickly it worked. Since I started on the front brakes the front reservoir is quite large so I got lucky in that it didn't run out of fluid after the first caliper and also from the leak. After that I started watching closer and definitely kept my eye on the rear reservoir since it's so much smaller than the front.

Quote:
I wonder if this would work on a longer chassis like mine.

Mike
I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't work. It might help if the front end was raised some to make the elevation differential larger between the m/c and the rear calipers. It certainly doesn't cost anything to try it other than some brake fluid.

Also I found that pushing the pedal a time or two helped the one rear cylinder start flowing. Might have been some debris in the line or just to many 90 degree turns causing an air bubble. Whatever it was it started working after I pumped the pedal and kept right on flowing after that.

Brad
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Old 05-20-2017, 09:58 AM   #1003
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Brad, you didn't mention it, but didn't you have to bench bleed the master cylinder for the gravity bleeding method to work?
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Old 05-20-2017, 12:38 PM   #1004
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Brad, you didn't mention it, but didn't you have to bench bleed the master cylinder for the gravity bleeding method to work?
Nope, I didn't bench bleed the m/c. I didn't bench bleed it at the time I installed it because I wasn't sure how long it would be before I would be able to bleed the brakes.

The only m/c I've ever bench bled was Peanut's. All my other vehicles I've always just started pumping away.
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:41 AM   #1005
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I don't seem to have gotten much completed lately but I have been spending time working on the Argosy. The main task lately has been chassis and dash wiring. The only wiring left in the motorhome is the coach wiring provided by Airstream so I'm basically starting from scratch on the chassis wiring and it's been somewhat of a chore to try and figure everything out. I've got lots of hours in pouring over wiring diagrams, creating wiring diagrams and just plain trying to figure out how it's all supposed to go together

The instrument panel is 95% complete, I just need to add 5 more wires and stuff them all into a female plug that will mate with a male plug from the chassis. Unlike the way Airstream did it I want to be able to remove the instrument panel and set it on the work bench if I want to.

It's amazing how many different wire sizes and wire colors are required. I've more less decided to cheat a little bit and if I needed 50' of 18 gauge yellow and 50 feet of 16 gauge yellow then I'm just buying 100' of 16 gauge yellow. Spools are typically sold in 100', 35' and 18' lengths so in the long run I save a little money this way.

In order to get the big ABS plastic dash top done in a reasonable time frame I hired Ernie to to do the plastic repair work and painting. Here's a before picture of the dash top:
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And after repairs and painting:
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Old 05-31-2017, 10:57 AM   #1006
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That's a significant improvement!
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Old 05-31-2017, 12:55 PM   #1007
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That's a significant improvement!
Yeah! What I really like about it is it doesn't look like cheap plastic anymore. Not sure if it was the color of the paint or the texturing that made the difference but it looks "warmer" now.

Brad
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Old 05-31-2017, 02:57 PM   #1008
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I really like that color. Do you know what the color is called and who it is by?
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Old 05-31-2017, 03:38 PM   #1009
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I really like that color. Do you know what the color is called and who it is by?
Bluebird Brown by SEM and designed for plastics.
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Old 05-31-2017, 03:50 PM   #1010
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Something else I tackled last week was installing a brace on the back side of the starter. The GM starters use a brace that connects from the back of the stater to the block to keep the starter from moving while it's cranking the 454 over. After replacing the big heavy GM starter with the small mini-starter (recommended by Criscraw) I found for obvious reasons that the original rear brace wouldn't work with the small starter. I ended up having to modify the original one to work properly with the new starter.

Here's the original brace:
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Here's what it looks like after being modified to work the the new starter:
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And here's what it looks like installed:
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This gets me a little bit closer to being able to start the engine again
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Old 06-02-2017, 05:37 AM   #1011
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Your dash is going to be beautiful Brad.
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Old 06-02-2017, 07:35 AM   #1012
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WoW!!! That Dash! That Dog house!! Talent, Passion, and Patience.
Amazing work.
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Old 06-02-2017, 02:05 PM   #1013
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments!

I'm really looking forward to the day I can actually drive this thing


Brad
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Old 06-03-2017, 02:57 PM   #1014
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Looks amazing!!!

Great job Brad. Looks amazing!!! You want to do Dali's dash? ;-)
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Old 06-03-2017, 04:06 PM   #1015
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If I were Ernie, I'd be asking for a raise, or at least a chance on taking her on an outing.

It's starting to come together well Brad........so as far as your dash is concerned. you have all the wiring from all your intruments coming into a central wiring block that you can disconnect?

Cheers
Tony
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Old 06-04-2017, 03:32 PM   #1016
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Great job Brad. Looks amazing!!! You want to do Dali's dash? ;-)
Hmmmm....NO!

I'm sure if you cared to bring Dali down to Kentucky Ernie would be more than happy to work on it
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Old 06-04-2017, 03:42 PM   #1017
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If I were Ernie, I'd be asking for a raise, or at least a chance on taking her on an outing.
The answers to the above are NO and NO The dash and side panel repairs weren't exactly cheap but they do look good!

Quote:
It's starting to come together well Brad........so as far as your dash is concerned. you have all the wiring from all your instruments coming into a central wiring block that you can disconnect?

Cheers
Tony
The instrument panel will have 3 separate multi pin connectors so that I can unplug them and completely remove the panel from the motorhome. There will be a total of 24 wires between the three connectors.
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Installing all of the components and interconnect wiring is taking a long time. A week or so ago my right knee swelled to the size of a softball which severely curtailed the amount and type of work I could do. Working on the cockpit wiring pretty much requires constant kneeling which meant I had to stop work for a while. The swelling is now down to the size of a golf ball and I can at least bend the knee now which meant I could start working in the cockpit as long as I was careful.

I think I've got about 90% of the engine and TBI wiring complete. The starter circuit is about the last thing to do in that area.
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Once that wiring is done and I've test ran the engine again then I have the headlight, tail light and heater wiring to complete. These latter items aren't needed for me to start the engine so I'll worry about them at a later date.

Getting close

Brad
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Old 06-17-2017, 06:08 PM   #1018
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Not much to show for the amount of time I've actually been working on the Argosy! There are an amazing amount of wires that have to be installed and connected. Crimping and soldering every connection definitely takes time, more than I initially anticipated

Oh well, the chassis wiring is getting closer to being done. One issue I had been fighting was the connectors between the instrument panel and the chassis wiring. I originally wanted to use Molex 10-pin connectors but the Marine grade wiring that I'm using wouldn't work with the Molex crimp pins. The insulation on Marine grade wire is thicker hence it won't fit in the pins correctly.

So I opted to use insulated terminal strips instead. Not necessary a plug/unplug arrangement but still better than the alternative. The instrument panel is now ready to install.

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Still to wire are the headlight system, heater/ac system and the windshield wiper system. Fortunately they aren't needed to start the engine up again so I'm really close to starting again!


Brad
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Old 06-17-2017, 06:45 PM   #1019
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That is so beautiful Brad. Real piece of work!
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Old 06-17-2017, 08:10 PM   #1020
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Quote:
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... The instrument panel is now ready to install.
.....
Brad
Clap, clap, clap...The quality of your work is remarkable!
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