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Old 07-31-2014, 04:01 PM   #21
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1970 31' Sovereign
Gastonia , North Carolina
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Well, I haven't actually DONE it yet. But that's my plan and I'm stickin with it. BTW, does your '72 have just a flat-bottomed "C" channel? Like this... |_| ...? I guess that's more of a "U" isn't it? Anyway, I don't know if this idea would work with the other more complicated bottom channels. Mine is the flat U and is still attached to my shell making this approach easier.
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Old 07-31-2014, 04:58 PM   #22
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
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WHy the Y?

Nope, not a "C" or a "U", but more like a lower-case y. A "U" on top that then curls around the board.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:21 PM   #23
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1970 31' Sovereign
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That might change things a bit but I still think tracing the radius will work for you. Evidently 1970 was the only year they used the U channel that's on mine. It made getting the shell off easy because I just slipped a sawzall blade under it and cut away. I like the idea of the plywood edge being covered though. I suppose I can come up with a mod for that.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:51 PM   #24
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Newport , North Carolina
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NO it will not work! Make the template and then pop the shell watch it flex a little and then get frustrated when the shape changes every time you lower the shell! You are doing it right keep on track it will work and if you have floor or not as long as the shell and c channel are in place you can make the template! Franks blog site has his phone number call and he will direct you to the thread.
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Old 07-31-2014, 05:55 PM   #25
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1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
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DrChris my 72 had the flat U as well. I replaced it with new c channel from OODM, this looks more like an F and wraps around the flooring adding more protection. It is listed as 5/8 but With a little persuasion 3/4 fits tightly.

Also if you have a 70's model trailer - you have separation, or you will have it. The little 2" wood/frame/skin sandwhich is what holds these things together. If any part of that is compromised it can spell disaster. Mine looked fine from the inside. Took her apart and could see that the PO had creatively used silicone, threaded rod and chicken wire to repair it.
You could jump on the bumper all day long and not see any separation,



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Old 07-31-2014, 06:42 PM   #26
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
Conifer , Colorado
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I wonder how the Airstream factory generates the arcs in the wood decking. I know the wood is installed on the frame before the body end caps are installed. But I don't know how the wood decking is cut to match the body end caps. Maybe the arcs are defined in the design of the trailer, and generated in the wood subfloor and also the same arcs in the bucks used to form the end caps. Maybe someone has seen this process during the Jackson Center tour?

My 66 has the C channel sitting on top of the plywood decking. My 86 has the upside down F shaped channel encapsulating the OSB decking. I have not had the 86 inside skins off to know exactly how the body is attached to the subfloor and frame.

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Old 07-31-2014, 07:15 PM   #27
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1970 31' Sovereign
Gastonia , North Carolina
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mccrosti...frame is already bare. Surprisingly very little damage. 3 outrigers, one crossmember, and the rear sill plate need replacing. That's it. I was expecting the worst and dodged a bullet.

I noticed you're in Denver. That's just almost in my backyard.
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Old 08-01-2014, 09:27 AM   #28
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1972 27' Overlander
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Hey Chris! I am in Denver NC population like 1500. If you are near me,ping me.

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Old 08-02-2014, 05:35 AM   #29
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1972 27' Overlander
Denver , North Carolina
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I've been posting from my phone, and now I see Gastonia! Wow a Fellow Airstreamer close enough to talk too! You are right, you did dodge the bullet. Here is a pic of mine with everything out of it: It's been a heck of a ride. The biggest problem I've had is figuring out where to stop. Right now I have the frame, floor, electrical and plumbing in. Yesterday I tore out the old furnace to replace with a Olympian Wave 6 catalytic heater. Quiet, Safe and they sip propane. Thing is, that Suburban is only about five years old...so I may install the catalytic, and re-install the suburban for when we are hooked up. Decisions! Decisions!
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:58 PM   #30
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
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poppin' a cap...

OK, bought the luan, and the framing members, and started power washing the inside to remove the remaining pink-devil's-armpit-hair. Takes about 85% of it off, and works better when the TT has been baking in the 105 degree heat for a bit.

But here's the latest problem: We cannot get the rear end cap out of the trailer. no matter how we twist it, turn in, invert it, etc., it won't go through the door. I figured that if we led with one of the square corners, we could edge it around and out like a sofa, but it wedges even before we can get that first back round corner out.

What am I missing?
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Old 08-02-2014, 02:16 PM   #31
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Newport , North Carolina
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Post a picture please the end cap!
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:08 PM   #32
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1972 27' Overlander
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Here's the young'un removing the pink death, and the end cap that won't leave.
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Old 08-02-2014, 08:10 PM   #33
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1972 27' Overlander
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By the way... we're not planning on reusing any of the interior (other than the skins and endcaps). If anyone needs parts from a '72, please PM me.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:45 PM   #34
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1970 31' Sovereign
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Sorry, cant help you with the endcaps. Mine were so bad I took them out in pieces!. If you're wanting to salvage them, maybe lift the shell to get them out (if you're going to lift it anyway). Oh, and I figured out why RM66caravel said my idea wouldn't work about dropping the shell on the deck. Without a bottom channel, the shell is very flimsy, so I can see where he's coming from. I'm still gonna stick with my plan though because my bottom "U" is fastened to the ribs all the way around. Because of that design I was able to lift it with the shell. This makes the shell very firm. I've even added some aluminum angle wherever there's a break in the bottom channel. I've tested it several times and there's almost no flex in the "footprint" of the shell. Once again, what works for one might not work for others.
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Old 08-03-2014, 03:42 AM   #35
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Time to wiggle and use lots of patients as you look at the picture standing with your chest at the split on top (for reference purposes only) the lower left corner will go out first. With the lower right corner towards the tongue of the trailer two people lift angle the end cap so that the corner is now a mid level and the top is angled back slightly (door must be opened fully) this is a tight fit so go slowly! Lower left out first headed towards the tongue of the trailer as the poor person on the inside pivots around towards the rear of the trailer. The edges of the top and bottom will rub the right side of the door (looking from the outside) and the curved back will rub the left side. (A little flexing of the end cap may be necessary). Hope that this helps! It can be done!
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Old 08-04-2014, 04:15 PM   #36
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1972 27' Overlander
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Success! My friend Jeff popped over and we, um, persuaded the end cap out the door. What a PITA. Ended up having to lift the leading edge up and almost over the trailer.

But it's out. Now off to building the luan template for the back floor panel. With any luck, I'll have a new hardwood floor in the back this week. Of course, it'll only be 0.1" thick.
Part of the challenge is that the luan ismuch thinner than the old floor (3/4"). Needless to say, that sag keeps things from lining up, so I'm going to have to "fur" up the chassis/outriggers with 5/8" strips and then place the luan. Now that I'm actually doing it, it makes much more sense to me.

And if anyone wanted to know just how big the pile would be if you took all of the electrical out of an airstream...
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Old 08-05-2014, 05:55 AM   #37
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1960 26' Overlander
Wervicq-Sud , FRANCE
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Quote:
Originally Posted by digidad View Post

My big fear is that my enthusiasm will out pace my knowledge, and I'll do something that makes it impossible to put back together.
Good project ! And you are very enthusiastic ! Don't worry, I'm sure you'll finish the project,

For sure, you have many working but... what a pleasure in few monthes / years !

I'm with you and I follow your thread.
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:02 AM   #38
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You will earn the Air Forums "Full Monte" award. Very few of us take on a project as extensive as shell off renovations. Usually it's mainly the pros that do the job.

Is your rear end cap fiberglass or ABS plastic? My 66 is fiberglass and has survived the years in good shape. My 86 is ABS (I think) and has yellowed and cracked in places. I was just wondering when Airstream changed to the lighter weight ABS plastic for end caps.

The gutted shell sure looks like a cargo plane fuselage. Glad to hear your frame is repairable. You will have a "blank" sheet of paper to design your "new / vintage" Airstream anyway you please.

David
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:24 AM   #39
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1972 27' Overlander
Loomis , California
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Fiber rich!

The end cap is fiberglass. It's actually pretty cool to see how they layered the sheets in the epoxy. It's pink, which seems odd...

It's in really good shape, all in all, given the age. Yes, it's yellowed some, but we'll be either painting or covering it, so no problem there. The mice nibbled along one edge, which may present some issues when we go to rivet it back in - there's not much left between the old holes and the ragged edge. I may need to see about adding on a little more epoxy/material. I need about 1/2". And lastly, we cracked a pair of the rivet holes during our conversation about how much it really wanted to be outside. I figure a little construction epoxy will handle those.

Yes, I think of an old DC-3 that should be in a south american jungle every time I look in through the window. Fortunately, we haven't found any, um, "cargo" during the renovation. Of course, if you look at the front skins, it kinda looks like it might have crashed into the jungle...
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Old 08-05-2014, 06:31 PM   #40
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I think Colin Hyde Trailer Restorations has, or will have, interior aluminum segments for end caps for those who like the shiny aluminum look in their trailers. Expensive I'm sure, but an interesting option. Then your Overlander would look like a new DC3!

My fiberglass end cap in the 66 Trade Wind has quite a bit of variation in it. There is one area where it is at least 1/2" away from the aluminum wall "studs" if I may call them that. I'm surprised rivets hold in a relatively brittle and heavy piece. When I removed my fiberglass tub I thought it was quite heavy.

Keep us posted on your renovation. It's going to be fun. And it's going to take a long time.

David
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