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dbj216 · 04-01-2018, 06:25 PM

The interior skins are laminated with a vinyl material that is really quite durable and easy to clean. I would highly recommend you identify and label each of the interior skins before they are removed. Develop an identifying scheme that makes sense for reassembly day. Each piece is unique in some way, e.g. wall outlet here, window there, etc.

The skins are held to the framework with 1/8" pop rivets. I remove these rivets with a 1/8" drill bit in my drill. Drilling out a pop rivet is easy for the most part. Some of them break and the rivet starts spinning with the drill bit. I have used the chisel and hammer method to shear a stubborn rivet head off.

David

Sdmezurek · 04-01-2018, 07:20 PM

Yep, used and plan on using the drill and bit method.. and I'm thinking of using a crayon for marking the wall panels..I figure on spending a few hours a day drilling rivets, dropping panels, removing insulation. Then waiting for husband to get back and figure out the electric wires, once he makes sure all external lights and internal stuff works, I can put up reflectix and insulate by myself, then call on The oldest child to come help with putting panels back up..

TheGreatleys · 04-01-2018, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sdmezurek

Yep, used and plan on using the drill and bit method.. and I'm thinking of using a crayon for marking the wall panels..I figure on spending a few hours a day drilling rivets, dropping panels, removing insulation. Then waiting for husband to get back and figure out the electric wires, once he makes sure all external lights and internal stuff works, I can put up reflectix and insulate by myself, then call on The oldest child to come help with putting panels back up..

Sharpie on the back of the panel works well.

rverforlife · 04-10-2018, 01:52 PM

I have removed the closet and vanity from the "hallway" across from the bed. I plan to put single beds on either side.

Can I use any couch that will fit through the door of the Airstream? I know that there will be a gap, between the window and the couch due to the curve in the Airstream.

Thank you, I'll send pictures, when I figure that out! LOL

Sdmezurek · 04-11-2018, 02:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rver4life

I have removed the closet and vanity from the "hallway" across from the bed. I plan to put single beds on either side.

Can I use any couch that will fit through the door of the Airstream? I know that there will be a gap, between the window and the couch due to the curve in the Airstream.

Thank you, I'll send pictures, when I figure that out! LOL

We've not gotten that far. Ours was a twin, we dismantled every peice of furniture and cabinet and it's stored in our barn. If we need to re use something, it's there.. everything came out the door without a hitch except the galley cabinet that contained the sink and oven. It's still inside. Sorry not a.vig help but I'm sure if you search in the forums someone can surely be of assistance!

dbj216 · 04-11-2018, 06:16 PM

There is always a distance between the front window and the couch due to the curved walls. The couch needs to be "wall to wall" so it is comfortable for sleeping, like 75 inches at least. Our 66 Trade Wind had it, our 75 Overlander has it, and our 86 Limited has it. Airstream usually builds a little shelf hanging on the front wall and touching the back of the couch backrest. This gives the backrest some support.

Many an Airstreamer have put store bought couches in their trailers. Others remove and replace the couch with recliners. Airstream built lots of longer trailers with the couch along the wall opposite the door with a folding table hung under the front window. I looked at a 79 Ambassador with that floor layout and rather liked it. Here is a link:

https://www.airstream.com/wp-content...3b7c825780.pdf

It's up to the owner to decide what is best for them.

David

Sdmezurek · 09-11-2018, 04:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sdmezurek

Hello..
Wanted one, found one, husband bought it..
Then we read all the fun stories about the dreaded rear sag, frame separation ect..
This makes us owner #3. Is there a way to trace original owners? To ask what may/ may not of been done repair wise? Looks like we are agreeing on a 90% total redo inside from the gaucho couch to the rear bath. Question about that rear bath, what is behind the top molded section? Has anyone redone their bath and left that there? Has anyone removed it without regret? Also, how in the words does water from the shower not permeate the side cosmetic sliding door area ??
Anyone???

Well, for lack of knowing where to add things periodically, I'll add it to the bottom of my original post...
Sept 11,18. Update on the shiny thing next to the pasture the cow.and goats look at.
Slow but sure is our Moto. The unit has been gutted, we have learned and have removed and repaired windows ( weatherstrip, u channels, guide tracks and replaced one that popped due to excessive sun and heat). Replaced rooftop AC with a new Domtetic, replaced 2 roof fans with Maxx Airs, replaced the bathroom vent fan. Am pondering on the dome skylight...
. We have used 8oz of Capt Tolleys Crack sealer inside and out on every rivet we can see and other places for good measure. We chose Lexel sealant for interior seams and rivets and other places, and have used it on the exterior as well. So, 90 % of the leaks we saw, are now dry.
Except for the rear bath window... NO matter what or how it was cleaned, no matter what was used to seal it with, it wants to leak....( The exterior top portion of the window frame where the rivets hold the guide for the window itself.. caulked, un caulked, again and again...any one want to chime in now , please and thank you!
Have made and added some support arms for the interior shell. And have torn up blue tape a few times changing the layout...hehe.
Once the leaks are taken care of, the rest will continue and hopefully we will be able to get it useable and finished within the next year... Til then, I'm looking for food coloring and the next rain to trace leaks....

dbj216 · 09-11-2018, 07:00 PM

One thing about Airstreams as a rainwater leak from a seam somewhere can mask itself as a window leak. The water leaks between the walls. So I assume if you used a garden hose and a shower nozzle and sprayed it on the upper corner of the rear window you would see the leak. If you started below the window and worked your way up you would not see the leak until the spray was on the upper window corner. I have seen leaks from the rear marker lights, from the Airstream letters, from the rear window awning attachment, from the rear tail lights, from a end cap seam all getting the rear subfloor wet.

Just make sure it is in fact the upper rear window corner. By the way, I like the Acryl-R seam sealant. It tends to flow a bit like captain trolleys and get into the cracks. You might want to order a can of it from the Airstream store.

David