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Old 08-07-2006, 11:01 PM   #61
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That woodwork looks great! But as always, I gotta ask a couple of questions.

What did you use to finish the wood? Not being a woodworker, I don't know some of the terminology. What is 4/4 maple? You said you used 1/2 maple for some part of it, are you talking about the dividers? The reason I ask is that in my '73, those dividers are that cheesy plastic junk and it is 1/4". I plan on doing something like you have with REAL wood, but I have little experience. Just trying to understand dimensions and so forth. I don't want to "underbuild" anything.

Thanks for the help. Keep us posted on your great work!

On edit: I meant to say also, take a look at the drawers UWE and JCFergusaon made for their campers. Pretty cool.

Jim
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Old 08-08-2006, 08:09 AM   #62
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Suferstyler, Very nice work, thanks for the pictures. I hope to get a chance to inspect you work up close.
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Old 08-08-2006, 09:59 AM   #63
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Jim,
Good morning. I'm sorry for not being more informative about the maple stuff. For all of the panels, which were orignally 3/16" walnut yucky laminate, I replaced them with 1/2" Maple Ply, prefinished for convenience. These are thicker, and heavier, but will be better in the long run as we are planning on putting two additional bunks in the kids room some day for their friends. I cut a rabbit with a router in the curved edge on the back of the panels to 1/4" to receive the metal extrusion strips that were already holding the laminate in place.

And Maple lumber is sold by the Board Foot, not linear foot. 4/4 represents a little more than 3/4" thick. They call it 4/4 because it was originally cut to 4/4 or 1" thick when rough cut. When you buy nice hardwood, which has several grades etc, it is already milled on both faces, and one edge. That's what brings the rough 1" thick piece down to about 3/4". Which is best for face frames, etc.

On all the Maple, except for the prefinished ply, I used a Polyurethane finish that was very similar in Amber color to the finish on the Plywood. This is available at any HD/Lowes, or woodworking store. Easy to use, and drys relatively quick.


Also, I highly recommend pocket screws for your joinery. They are very strong, and you can find them, along with a jig for them at most Hardwood Lumber or woodworking supply stores.

If you have any other questions, please let me know. I love talking about wood!

Regards,
Ron
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Old 08-17-2006, 02:06 PM   #64
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Thumbs up hey there.. Looking great!

It's great to read your thread and see the comparisons between our overhaul and yours. Of course it's nice to know we aren't alone. I am definitely going to write down some tidbits in your thread, mainly the paints. that icky yellow has got to go. What did you decide to do with the roll up shelving doors?
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Old 08-17-2006, 04:31 PM   #65
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Regarding the roll up doors, I think the tambours right? I'm going to replace them. I personally don't care much for them. I'll rebuild the upper storage units eventually, but as few as we need. I like more of the minimalist view of it all. I'll probably attempt to keep them open faced, with steel rails or something. Worse case scenario I'll use doors or sliding doors. I've seen a few things I like out there in other trailer models, and am trying to adapt things here and there in a modern fashion if possible. Good luck with your painting!
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Old 08-18-2006, 10:12 AM   #66
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surferstyler, you get high marks for the floor and aluminum shower wall! Kudos. I agree with your selection of wood. Your stuff is beautiful.

Here's my Caravel, using the same wood, showing what one nearly completed project looks like. I highly encourage you to enclose your shelves--I had clothes fall onto the bed continously until I put the doors in. Latches are problematic--if you put them at the top or bottom of a door, the flexing of the shell can unlatch them. On the sides of the door (hinged at top or bottom, here) the latch catch just slides up and down a little, but stays closed.

The kitchen works great, except I haven't figured out how to keep the drawers closed--right now I have the elegant Rube Goldberg bungee that attaches to the faucet and then goes under the botton drawer to attach to a pipe. I love the fold-out drawer under the stove that holds the glassware and china. I didn't have the catches for the upper cabinet doors at first, but they are very handy when you're loading or unloading. The other nice thing about the upper cabinets above the sink is that they are absolutely mouse-proof.

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The fridge and microwave fit nicely under a small cabinet--the fridge chimney is enclosed behind plywood, just like surferstyler's. The cabinet over the bed holds tons. There are 3 large cubbys under the bed. Each panel is held on with velcro.

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The closet stack is pretty straight-forward. The top cabinets all have to have swing up or swing down doors, due to lights, ceiling curve, AC shroud, etc.

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The bench and front control panel/book storage hold lots, also. The bench seat back folds forward to store two folding chairs. Underneath, you can see the two drawers (that still need drawer fronts), but there is also a 13-bottle wine storage in the middle (the panel is secured by velcro and pulls off toward your feet) and a small cubby against the forward skin that can hold a case and a half of soft drinks. It's door also pulls off toward the inside and is held on by velcro. You can see the finger-holes at the bottom of the removable panels. As of now, the control panel only has the pump switch and indicator LED. It will eventually have a full set of LED level lights for the fresh water and black tanks, plus clock and temperature displays.

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Old 08-18-2006, 11:01 AM   #67
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Wow, nice job, and thanks for sharing that info. It looks like your cabinets are all pretty full too. Since we haven't really used the A/S before, I may have underestimated how much storage I'll actually need inside. Hmm, I'll have to re-think my strategy on the overheads. And the hinges etc.
Thank you,
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Old 08-18-2006, 07:57 PM   #68
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Thumbs up Zepp - thanks for sharing...

Hey Zepp, Thanks for showing those before the drawers are opened and after the doors are opened shots. I wish more people shared like that. I find it ery helpful and informative.. surfer - you're as looks beautiful!!!! i love the aluminium touches.
-Kelly
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Old 08-18-2006, 08:05 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
surferstyler,The kitchen works great, except I haven't figured out how to keep the drawers closed--right now I have the elegant Rube Goldberg bungee that attaches to the faucet and then goes under the botton drawer to attach to a pipe.
Zep,
Rockler sells rare earth magnets, than can hold your drawers closed. They are little pucks, and recess into the drawer front. The opposite can be a little bracket or whatever works for your applications. They make anice "thunk" when you close them. Reassuring!
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...&filter=magnet
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Old 08-19-2006, 08:28 AM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
Zep,
Rockler sells rare earth magnets, than can hold your drawers closed. ...
Uwe, I've actually held those little suckers in my hands and thought about it, but never got around to running the test. I think I'll tackle it when I get home. Thanks very much for the reminder.

What diameter do you recommend? Do you recall how many in a pack--the web page is missing this info. Did you use the magnet and washer, or two magnets face-to-face? Is it possible to orient them so you can do a face-to-face?

I've used the push-to-latch, push-to-unlatch type catches and also friction bullets. The former puts the beak on you when you forget you have to push the drawer first, the latter seem to slowly wiggle their way loose--at least that's what happened before I got my axle fixed.

I'm confident the magnets will work for even large vertical bumps, but when you hit a speed bump a little sideways and the trailer rocks side-to-side, I'm thinking a heavy drawer will exert a fair amount of force in the opening direction during half of the cycle. How heavy are your drawers? I've got one that is full of canned food.

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Old 08-19-2006, 09:41 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
Uwe, I've actually held those little suckers in my hands and thought about it, but never got around to running the test. I think I'll tackle it when I get home. Thanks very much for the reminder.

What diameter do you recommend? Do you recall how many in a pack--the web page is missing this info. Did you use the magnet and washer, or two magnets face-to-face? Is it possible to orient them so you can do a face-to-face?

I've used the push-to-latch, push-to-unlatch type catches and also friction bullets. The former puts the beak on you when you forget you have to push the drawer first, the latter seem to slowly wiggle their way loose--at least that's what happened before I got my axle fixed.

I'm confident the magnets will work for even large vertical bumps, but when you hit a speed bump a little sideways and the trailer rocks side-to-side, I'm thinking a heavy drawer will exert a fair amount of force in the opening direction during half of the cycle. How heavy are your drawers? I've got one that is full of canned food.

Zep
My drawers are small, and not very heavy. I need to still install the magnets on most of them. Carlos pioneered the idea, actually. I need to revisit his thread to refresh my memory.
Here is more information, with pull strength indications:
http://www.leevalley.com/hardware/pa...363,42348&ap=1
Carlos's thread: http://www.airforums.com/forum...light=ferguson
The magnets come one to a pack at Lee Valley. But I might go over to Rockler and pick them up, since their store is near area 63, and Lee Valley is a mail order for me.
Perhaps the heavy drawer would need 2 magnets, or stronger ones. Key is to prevent stuff from shifting, so that the accelerated items won't try and yank the drawers or doors open. I've done real well with my magnet catches for the cabinet doors, not a single on has ever opened.
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Old 08-19-2006, 11:26 AM   #72
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I appreciate all the nice detail about cabinet construction. You guys are a bit ahead of where I am now. I am still installing the insulation in the walls so I can re-install the inner skins. Eventually I will be building a completely custom interior.

I have debated whether or not to use tambour doors on anything and still have not made up my mind. In the process of thinking about it I did track down some websites that might be of interest to anyone also thinking about tambour doors. Check out the following:

http://www.tapeease.com/tambour_doors_and_tracks.htm

http://www.winonamanufacturing.com/

I be very interested to hear from anyone that has done new work with tambour materials.

Keep up the good work...

Malcolm
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Old 08-19-2006, 11:41 AM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
I have debated whether or not to use tambour doors on anything and still have not made up my mind.
Malcolm
I replaced some tambour inside my 71 TradeWind. I did not use it in my Overlander, because I wanted a more vintage look and feel.
The tambour doors are ideal for a small space, mobile environment, in my opinion. They take very little space once rolled up, and do not protrude in the living space. A quality tambour installation woul dbe a thing of beauty, especially since nowadays there are so many styles and options. Making custom tambour tracks might be a challenge, but some hard wood and a router should suffice. I am considering tambour doors for the space underneath my bed, a space that does not have cabinet doors yet. I am hesitant, as I don't really want to mix different door styles in such a small space.
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Old 08-19-2006, 12:11 PM   #74
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I'm against tambours (I know this is a hijack--sorry). For the under bed storage, the rolled-up tambours block 3-4 inches of the available cubby height, which is significant. Hinged doors do poorly, since when they're open they have to block the walkway or, if swinging up, block your reach or view. I guess they could swing down, so you could pull the box out across the door.

I'd go with drawers, but they limit the size of items that can be stored. I prefer panels that cover the cubby opening, but are retained by velcro so they come off completely (and easily).

Anyone want photos of how the panels fit?

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Old 08-19-2006, 04:51 PM   #75
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Talking velcro?

zep, to continue your hijack of ron's thread, you mentioned "velcro" and a lightbulb went over my head, albeit a dim one: might it work to glue or otherwise attach 1 or 2 buttons of velcro to the inside of the drawer front, and to the face frame- and to use the drawer when parked you could attach other loose 'buttons" over the existing ones to prevent them from sticking at all- I guess you could do this with magnets too, put something over them when parked so the drawers open more easily. Am at this stage also and just thinking out loud... Also, while we're hijacked- zep, have you ever thought about making an AS calendar? Your photos are exquisite- have seen them here and there. OK- Ron (finally)- just posted a pic of what I did with my former tambour openings under the front gaucho, made small doors hinged on the bottom. In my upper cabs, I made sliders out of formica. We will NOT be storing loose cans up there! hasta luego, tim
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Old 08-19-2006, 05:11 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
... might it work to glue or otherwise attach 1 or 2 buttons of velcro to the inside of the drawer front, and to the face frame- and to use the drawer when parked you could attach other loose 'buttons" over the existing ones to prevent them from sticking at all- I guess you could do this with magnets too, put something over them when parked so the drawers open more easily.
...
Also, while we're hijacked- zep, have you ever thought about making an AS calendar? ... tim
The two drawers under the bench seat are secured by velcro at their back end, but it was a pain to get the spacing right. I didn't want velcro around the contact area between the drawer front (not existing yet for those two drawers) and the face frame because I wanted a flush fit. In retrospect, that was waaaaayyyy too anal, and I'm not one of those, except maybe when it comes to cabinetmaking... Anyway, the velcro works fine and with a few miles of travel vibrations it really gets tightly bound.

I like your idea of a "clutch" for when you're stopped--hard to implement with the magnets, however.

CALENDAR--yes, I mentioned it in another thread as a subordinate posting. Maybe I'll start a thread in a few weeks (traveling now) and examine this topic. Many others have wonderful photos (Uwe actually got me crazy with one of his sunsets and I've been copying him since--I think it was Uwe or maybe 2Air), so getting licenses or waivers should be straightforward. I was thinking of something that was downloadable as wallpaper for members of the forums.

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Old 08-20-2006, 12:57 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tphan
I guess you could do this with magnets too, put something over them when parked so the drawers open more easily. Am at this stage also and just thinking out loud...
Continuing the hijack... why not 12volt electro-magnets that can be switched on and off; keep the turned on while driving, and turn them off when you're parked for drawer-opening-easiness.
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Old 08-20-2006, 01:02 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankornuta
Continuing the hijack... why not 12volt electro-magnets that can be switched on and off; keep the turned on while driving, and turn them off when you're parked for drawer-opening-easiness.
is your uncle named Rube Goldberg? Geez, I'd leave the damn things turned on when parked and the battery'd be dead as a doornail.
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Old 08-20-2006, 01:06 PM   #79
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Quote:
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is your uncle named Rube Goldberg? Geez, I'd leave the damn things turned on when parked and the battery'd be dead as a doornail.
LOL... well, it would easy to set it up to automatically turn off when you disconnected the pigtail from the tow vehicle. Damn, now this has got me thinking.
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Old 08-21-2006, 11:59 AM   #80
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Beautiful Work

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
I am considering tambour doors for the space underneath my bed, a space that does not have cabinet doors yet. I am hesitant, as I don't really want to mix different door styles in such a small space.
Uwe, if anyone can make the match, you can do it.

Seeing such cabinetry/craftsmanship in these interiors is a delight.
I will use tambors for weight and function. Although I wonder how much some of these gorgeous trailers weigh, I do not ask.

R
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