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Old 10-17-2009, 10:41 AM   #761
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We need this foam too...We had spring mattress made but are not comfortable for big people. I'm sure they would work great for children.....We were thinking about buying memory foam toppers for them but the cost would be the same from what you are saying.....What is the weight and density of the foam? Is it 4 or 5"....
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The new foam for the beds came in. Now, if Susan will just make the covers for them...(don't dare tell her I said that). Of course, I had to try them out with a long afternoon nap, so I broke out the kids' old Harry Potter sheets from the back of the linen closet and commenced to a good snooze.

Got those at FoamDistributing.com. Many thanks, Mary for that tip. Total cost to the front door was $156. Great deal and a very comfortable. And that's saying a lot considering the disaster I've made of back over the years.

Jim
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Old 10-17-2009, 11:00 AM   #762
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We bought the 6", regular. I have to tell you, I don't really understand all of the density ratings. We were looking for a material that would be soft, firm but not hard. The HD36R is what they recommended for us. Take a look at their website. The foam we bought was about medium quality, They offer many different types of mattress foam from "cheap" all the way up to the really expensive memory foam. They were also very helpful on the phone.

Jim
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Old 10-18-2009, 05:45 AM   #763
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I love your wiring!!! very nicely done!!! I have one of those yellow top batteries in my wagon. and had one in my pickup truck I used for plowing. very strong for truck/car use. Let us know how it works for RV use. Many seem to recommend the blue top (marine) Optima batteries for rv use. I don't have a feeling either way. I just like the Optima batteries.

The fuse panel is a great addition. nice and neat.

I really need to make some time for my 72. She is feeling neglected. I apologized to her yesterday for winterizing her and promised I would sleep with her at least once more out in the driveway before I close her up for good.
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:52 PM   #764
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The camera problems got resolved, so I thought a better closeup of the fuse panel would be helpful.

Jim
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:58 PM   #765
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One of the other forum members convinced me that I should go ahead and add shocks to the new axles. Since he had the necessary welding equipment to make it happen, we went ahead with it.

Not much of a story or description, really. We cut off the old shock mounts from the old axle, cleaned them up and welding them onto the new axle. They fit just about perfectly without any modifications. Just make sure they line up frame to axle arm. Sorry, no pics.

Jim
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Old 10-29-2009, 04:57 AM   #766
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My shocks do not line up perfectly. I could move my shock mounts, but so far the trailer is riding really nice.

What are you going to do about heat? We are talking about camping in the winter in Illinois.

Brian
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Old 10-30-2009, 04:51 PM   #767
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My shocks do not line up perfectly. I could move my shock mounts, but so far the trailer is riding really nice.

What are you going to do about heat? We are talking about camping in the winter in Illinois.

Brian
We used an "electric space heater" this past weekend at Falluminium. We didn't leave it on at night, only when we were awake and inside the camper. I have (had) a ceramic electric heater that I was using, but accidentally broke it. Eventually, I'll get another one of those. We won't be boondocking in cold weather for the foreseeable future, so that should work fine for us.

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Old 11-08-2009, 10:19 PM   #768
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Susan and I spent some time this weekend totaling up receipts for the refurb. Are you ready for this? We're up to about $5500 and that's just the stuff for which we have receipts in hand. Yikes! I'm going to try and post an accounting of the bucks soon. We created an Access document to lay it all out. Problem is, we can't simply post that document here because of (understandable) forum rules. We'll figure it out.

Also, watch a few updates on the interior. We got a fridge! Now if I can just figure out to build the cabinets around it.

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Old 11-09-2009, 11:35 PM   #769
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It's the one called the HD36R Twin, 6". You can find it here:Foam Factory - HD36 Regular Foam

One of the things I liked about these people is that took the time to help me pick foam that would be comfortable for us. Susan and I are a couple of old farts, so comfort is becoming more a necessity these days.

Jim
Did you order that size because it was cheaper to buy larger and cut it down yourself? If so what did you use to cut it down with? My twin beds in the AS only measure approx. 31" x 75" on one side & 32" x 76 on the other. Do your beds actually measure twin size (39 x 75)? Is this because in your remodel you changed the dimensions to a regular size twin?

Thanks, Mary
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Old 11-10-2009, 05:25 AM   #770
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Mary,

I don't know how Jim cut the foam but have heard that the way to do it is with an electric knife. Remember those?
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Old 11-10-2009, 04:17 PM   #771
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Mary, 'Hoot has it right. I used the electric carving knife from the kitchen. It works very well, even on the thick stuff. Just take your time and don't overheat the knife. Sorry, I thought I posted that somewhere in the thread.

As to the size we bought, that was the size closest to what we needed. None of the other sizes seemed to work out. For example, we thought about a king size, then cut it in half. Too much waste. The pieces that are left over from the "single" size that we bought will be used elsewhere (like maybe on the gaucho/front bed).

I might also add that this foam is very, very comfortable. I've slept on it about 5 time now and couldn't be happier. It even passed the toughest test of all...Susan like it!

Jim
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Old 11-10-2009, 10:40 PM   #772
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Mary, 'Hoot has it right. I used the electric carving knife from the kitchen. It works very well, even on the thick stuff. Just take your time and don't overheat the knife. Sorry, I thought I posted that somewhere in the thread.

As to the size we bought, that was the size closest to what we needed. None of the other sizes seemed to work out. For example, we thought about a king size, then cut it in half. Too much waste. The pieces that are left over from the "single" size that we bought will be used elsewhere (like maybe on the gaucho/front bed).

I might also add that this foam is very, very comfortable. I've slept on it about 5 time now and couldn't be happier. It even passed the toughest test of all...Susan like it!

Jim
Great that's what I suspected since the standard twin size is actually less expensive than the custom size needed. I'll be ordering some soon, and will have to dig out my knife .

Thanks, Mary
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:34 PM   #773
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We bought a fridge a couple of weeks back from a fellow forum member. It's out of a 2000 Airstream Moho and seems to work fine. It's set in place and I've started working on the cabinets around it. We decided to stay with the same birch wood and same stain colors for the galley and living room area. Some of those panels are just about ready to go in. The door panels on the fridge are oak and just about the same shade as the stained birch. They're fine for now, but we wIll probably change those out at some point to match the birch

Jim
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:40 PM   #774
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So I have a question about sealing around the back of the fridge to create the "chimney" effect up to the fridge vent on top of the camper.

All of the original openings are still in place in the floor, belly pan and roof. The "scoop" that mounts behind the fridge and directs the hot air to the fridge vent is in good shape.

What I don't know about is how all of that was sealed along side and against the walls. How important is it that the back be completely sealed? Here's a couple of pics...
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:43 PM   #775
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Here's the right side of the fridge. The aluminum extrusion that is clecoed to the wall is what holds the wall to the right of the fridge in place. There was no foam sealant behind this extrusion originally (or at least when we got the camper).....
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:48 PM   #776
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And the left side. This extrusion has foam (which needs to be replaced) on the backside against the outer wall. Notice that this sealed extrusion doesn't extend all the way to the top of the fridge, meaning this can't be an airtight seal.
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Old 11-18-2009, 08:58 PM   #777
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There's also a shelf that fits on top of all of this that directs heated air up to the "scoop" (I'm too lazy right now to dig out the shop manual figure out what the correct name of that dang scoop is). This opening in the shelf also wasn't selaed.

So, there's question one. How tightly does this need to be sealed?

Question two, can somebody tale a look their rig at the flew (is that the correct spelling?) that contains the heating elements and see if there is some type of extension above the factory flew up to the "scoop"? Did that make sense?

Notice the flew containing the heating elements to the left rear of the fridge.
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Old 11-19-2009, 03:56 AM   #778
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I'll soon be to the same point myself. My understanding is that you should span the distance from the back of the refrigerator to the wall with a piece of sheet aluminum. The sheet can be attached to the side of the refrigerator with aluminum tape and scribed to the wall. Haven't really thought through how to attach to the wall but I'd probably use 90 degree tabs and pop rivits, then a bead of Vulkem to complete the seal.
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Old 11-19-2009, 08:09 AM   #779
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There's also a shelf that fits on top of all of this that directs heated air up to the "scoop" ...This opening in the shelf also wasn't sealed. .
Not good. You can probably get away with having a poor seal down towards the bottom of the fridge, but not at the top. This is where the hot/warm gas collects and it needs to be reliably channeled to the 'scoop.' You saw how I got a reliable seal between the shelf and the scoop over here http://www.airforums.com/forums/770889-post8.html.

The problem with having a poor seal at the bottom of the plenum in back of the fridge is that in cold weather the outside air can really come inside through any opening in the plenum.

The way Airstream sealed the plenum was to have the two partitions on either side of the fridge tight to the shell. Then the horizontal shelf above the fridge was tight to the partitions and scoop. There are two small spaces on the left and right of the scoop where the shelf has to also be tight to the shell. Then the fridge is made tight to the this three-sided enclosure (two partitions and shelf) with a 2" wide band of 1" thick foam that runs up both sides of the fridge and across the top.

The partitions often are not tight to the shell. Some installations relied entirely on the curved bracket being screwed to the shell and the partition screwed to the bracket. This obviously isn't air tight. It needs a bead of vulkem or bathtub caulk in the shell-to-bracket and bracket-to-partition joints. You only have to seal this joint (both sides) up to the location of the shelf.

Zep

Quote:
So, there's question one. How tightly does this need to be sealed? .
Tight. Like air tight.

Quote:
Question two, can somebody tale a look their rig at the flew (is that the correct spelling?) that contains the heating elements and see if there is some type of extension above the factory flew up to the "scoop"? ....
There's no extension, at least none in my experience with 5 Airstreams. In my Overlander the flue is not directly under the scoop, so I attached a 'deflector', a simple 45 degree bent piece of 3" wide sheet aluminum, to deflect the hot air immediately above the flue towards the center of the fridge about 2". This prevented the hot gas from impinging directly on the edge of the plastic scoop.
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Old 11-20-2009, 06:39 AM   #780
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Thanks for the roadmap, Zep. When I took all of this stuff apart (around the fridge) the only positive seal was on the extrusion that holds the left side partition to the outer wall. Either Airstream screwed up at the factory or a PO did somewhere along the way. Just for the record, the original fridge looks like it was never removed. Unbelievable.

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