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Old 05-05-2008, 10:57 AM   #541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Hey Malcolm, so spill the beans, how did you go about painting? Spray it, roll it? We will definately be painting the interior. Probably a light blue. The woodwork will all be a light color as well. The original '70's campers were so dark. We called it "cave like". What type rectifier did you get?
Jim
Jim,

My painting process was as follows:

1.) Thorough scrubbing of the inner skins while laying on the grass using a small floor buffer with 3m type scrub pads. I did not do any light sanding on the panels first but I think I may have accomplished much the same by using the 3m pads.

2.) Two coats of shelac based primer (BIN brand).

3.) Two coats of Home Depots best Bear interior semi-gloss latex enamel.

I applied all of the paint using a 6" sponge roller and a brush for cutting in here and there where I just could not get coverage with the roller.

Admittely I do not have experience living with the paint yet since I am still not done with my remodel. I have tried scratching the surface in a few places with a fingernail and it seems to be pretty tought.

For the elecrical system what I received for my birthday are the following Xantrex products:

XADC 30A Distribution Center
XADC 40A Converter Charger

The distribution center is on the following web page:

XADC 30A Distribution Center

The distribution panel is very nice and compact. I have been intending to install it in my kitchen cabinet area which is just behind the entry door where the original converter was located. I think the panel can be mounted on the side of the cabinet just inside the door. It would be easily accessible there even without entering the trailer.

I bought the 30amp main and two 20amp branch breakers locally at Home Depot. I still have to find the 20amp DC fuses since Lowes and Home Depot don't carry what is needed.

Malcolm
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Old 05-11-2008, 08:13 AM   #542
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malconium
...
I bought the 30amp main and two 20amp branch breakers locally at Home Depot. I still have to find the 20amp DC fuses since Lowes and Home Depot don't carry what is needed.

Malcolm
You can get a combo pack of DC automotive fuses, including fuse puller tool, for about $10 at Harbor Freight, Home Depot (only in some stores), or many auto parts places. I think it has 5 each of 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 amp fuses and some packs have 30 amp, too.

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Old 05-12-2008, 10:24 AM   #543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeppelinium
You can get a combo pack of DC automotive fuses, including fuse puller tool, for about $10 at Harbor Freight, Home Depot (only in some stores), or many auto parts places. I think it has 5 each of 5, 10, 15, 20, and 25 amp fuses and some packs have 30 amp, too.

Zep
Zep,

The home depot that I looked at did not seem to have them although admittedly I was not actually looking for a combo pack. All of my 12 volt fuses need to be 20 amp too so the other sizes would not help me any. Also I believe that there is a puller attached to the panel as an accessory. I have not had time to mount a serious hunt for the fuses yet but I am sure that I can find them somewhere locally.

Thanks,

Malcolm
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Old 05-12-2008, 11:52 AM   #544
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painting plastic laminate

Jim,

I took a small sample of wall panel (plastic lam over luan) from our '74 into our local paint store and they said there was only one product to use to make sure paint stuck to it. It is called X-I-M Primer/Bonder, and I will be the first to admit I don't exactly look forward to using it.

X-I-M is toluene based, so the fumes are strong. It is also very thin, so it splashes easily, but it also tacks very quickly. This means that wherever your brush or roller strokes overlap, it tends to glob a little. Having said that, it really does stick to the plastic laminate very well.

I try to set it up so that I can paint the laminate outside, and scuff it with 100 grit sandpaper. You don't have to use a power sander and it doesn't take much effort, just make sure you cover the entire surface until some fine, white dust develops. I don't have a sprayer, so I use a brush or roller to apply the X-I-M. Once the X-I-M is dry, lightly sand down the globs and then use a small diameter roller to apply a prime coat of KILZ. After that you can use any decent quality latex paint and the dark walnut laminate will disappear completely.

I have used a small diameter woven fabric roller and semi-gloss paint over the plastic laminate, and have been very happy with the results. The woven fabric roller leaves far fewer bubbles than a foam roller. Best of luck with the project.

Laird
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Old 05-12-2008, 03:33 PM   #545
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I was thinking of doing what this guy did http://www.airforums.com/forum...lls-14441.html in post number six. He/she seems to be describing the "correct", if you will, method of painting vinyl. I tried to contact him/her but haven't heard back yet. Has anybody else tried this?

Malcolm, why a shellac based primer?

Laird, I'm replacing all of that plastic laminate stuff with real wood. I just don't like that stuff. I'm more concerned about painting the vinyl covered walls (aka the "inner skins") and plastic end caps. Have you tried the X-I-M on the vinyl?

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Old 05-12-2008, 04:20 PM   #546
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painting vinyl

Hi Jim,

I think the real wood walls will look very nice, good approach. I have not tried the X-I-M on the vinyl walls, but I don't think you need to mess with it.

For cleaning the vinyl before painting, I have used strong concentrations of the both the purple stuff you can get at Wal-Mart, and Simple Green. Both seem to work well, as long as an abrasive scrubber sponge is used with some elbow grease. The green abrasive sponge for scouring seems to work better than the white abrasive sponge for glass and china. I did wipe down the walls after scrubbing, using a large sponge and lots of clean water. There was no more sticky feel to the vinyl after it dried.

For painting the vinyl walls, I have used one coat of water-based KILZ and two coats of semi-gloss latex, using that fabric roller, and had good luck with the finish. I have used Benjamin Moore, but have no reason to think other brands wouldn't work as well.

I have painted the tambour doors, plastic end caps and misc plastic parts with Krylon Fusion, which comes in spray cans around here. It is made specifically for plastic. I did find that it helps to follow the directions and apply the paint in multiple thin coats a few minutes apart. The paint runs pretty easily otherwise. I hope this is helpful.

Laird
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Old 05-13-2008, 11:10 AM   #547
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Malcolm, why a shellac based primer?

Jim
Hi Jim,

Both Kilz and BIN (what I used) happen to be shellac based. I have used them for other types of projects and feel that they stick pretty well. Shellac based primers are also great for painting over stains and for covering over smoke damage. I like the fact that it dries very quickly. I was able to start putting on a second coat immediately after I finished the first coat. I guess time will tell if I made a good choice.

Malcolm
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Old 06-03-2008, 05:06 PM   #548
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Jim:

Your trailer is looking great. You really did a great job on your back lights. My inside canisters were really rusted and I did not feel like rebuilding them. I went and purchased Lights that look like the originals at Norther tool. I put those in and will use them for now. Eventually I want to put the orginals back in.

I had this company make my black tank. I took a picture and made a CAD drawing with dimensions to send to them. They made a new tank with better plastic. It arrived in a couple of weeks. They were great! Check out the site.

Inca Plastics Inc.

I don't even know if my water tank is any good. Next years project.

SIU Bound

Brian
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Old 06-09-2008, 10:15 AM   #549
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More good news (fingers firmly crossed)

Dad and I finally got the last of the walls in Saturday. A chore I am very happy to have completed.

Sunday, we decided to tackle the Air Conditioner. It was working when we bought the camper, but the electrics have been disconnected since we ripped out the interior. Rounded up all the pieces/parts, hooked it up and voila! COLD air! We let it run for about 6 hours yesterday afternoon and into last night and it worked beautifully.

There's still work to do on it, however. This is the orignal Armstrong AC unit that came with the Airstream from the factory (or appears to be). The compressor has been replaced at some time in the past (early 1990's?) The plenum needs to be cleaned very well and the insulation in there needs to be replaced (think smelly old stuff). The inner cooling coils are very dirty. The way these things are designed, it's almost impossible to keep dirt and dust out of those coils--the filter is very poor.

Does anybody know to clean these coils? I know the pro's use spray type solvents to get in there, but those cleaners are not available unless you are licensed. I've already tried the garden hose method. Didn't do any good at all.

Jim
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Old 06-09-2008, 10:19 AM   #550
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I used full-strength Purple Stuff in a spray bottle. Sprayed it on, let is sit for a while, hosed it out with the garden hose set to "heavy stream", then blew it all out with compressed air. Obviously something on the floor to catch runoff is a must.
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:37 AM   #551
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There used to be a Mother's 'Mag' Wheel cleaner that contained some mild organic acids that would break up aluminum oxide crystals and leave bare bright aluminum but that may be very hard to find - and etching aluminum to clean it reduces the life expectancy, that's the hitch with the commercial foaming coil cleaners. I've seen mismatched chemical cleaning lay low hundreds of evaporator coils but mostly that is from the techs not TIMING the application and rinsing after 10, 20 or 30 seconds...

I've heard techs recommend 409 spray cleaner for cleaning lightly soiled coils, but for ancient ugly cooling fins I've used spray oven cleaner which worked well to brighten up the metal - which I immediately water washed off and then neutralized with Coca-Cola (for the phosphoric acid). Never apply the hydroxide cleaner to a dry coil, hose it down well and spray on and let stand for 10 or 20 seconds then water wash off...

But hey.. Maybe someone else has a better idea
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Old 06-10-2008, 09:58 AM   #552
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I actually had a tech recommend the 409 thing. I'm probably going to try one of the less "toxic" cleaners first. The purple stuff, 409 or a product that I happen to have in the garage called "Krud Kleaner". I'll post back how it goes. Complete with pictures, right?

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Old 06-11-2008, 05:05 PM   #553
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Something I've been meaning to do and don't think I've done yet. Here is how the wiring for the stereo is laid out: http://www.airforums.com/forums/574843-post16.html just in case anybody needs that for a '73.

Jim
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Old 06-11-2008, 06:28 PM   #554
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Thanks Jim !!!!

I hope I get the opporunity to see your trailer some day. I have decided to upgrade the stereo and the vents in mine. After putting the fantastic fan in this last week I have decided to do the other two vents. I wil have this up and running by July. I will take mine for a ride next Monday. I haven't pulled a travel trailer before. This will be a learning experience.

I got my vulkem in today which gives me the opportunity to secure the hot water heater.

Brian
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Old 06-12-2008, 08:11 AM   #555
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SIU Bound View Post
... After putting the fantastic fan in this last week I have decided to do the other two vents. ... Brian
Brian, I've got two Fantastic Fans in my Overlander and Sovereign, at either end, and it's a toss-up whether more than one is needed. I removed the center vent and sealed the vent opening in both of them. In my Safari I did something similar, but only one Fantastic Fan. I've found that it's a good thing to have a couple of vent openings for passive cooling, but when you turn the fan on, close the other vent(s) and let the fan pull air in through the windows. So a third vent opening seems a little superfluous--maybe not the right answer for the south, but seems to work well out here in the dry west.

Zep
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Old 06-12-2008, 12:16 PM   #556
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Looks Good

Jim

Sounds like progress. Good for you. Did you use the existing holes in the walls and structure? I am wounding how it all aligned after rebuilding so much.

I'm hoping to get the back floor out this weekend - the typical back-end sage=rotten floor.
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Old 06-12-2008, 04:24 PM   #557
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I'm hoping to get the back floor out this weekend - the typical back-end sage=rotten floor.
Bedfords, are you working on the back floor of the Overlander or the Ambassador?
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Old 06-12-2008, 08:28 PM   #558
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Am I doing this right

Jim & Susan
If you have time , could you call me. I am removing floor and may not be doing it right. When I put in temporary 3/4 ply some slide right in, others I have to beat in with a hammer.I also guess I should be using Jack stands and do not know where to put them on my 74....Lee
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Old 06-13-2008, 09:25 AM   #559
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Jim

Sounds like progress. Good for you. Did you use the existing holes in the walls and structure? I am wounding how it all aligned after rebuilding so much.

I'm hoping to get the back floor out this weekend - the typical back-end sage=rotten floor.
I'm using all the original holes and wall structure. I'm very pleased to report that everything lines back up. We were concerned that things wouldn't line up well because the trailer her been moved a few times and, as you suggest, all that twisting, pulling and tugging from the resto.

There was one small problem, however. In a couple of spots, the wall semed to all of a sudden be "too long" once all the rivets were put back. Let me if I can explain that a little bit...

Jim
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Old 06-13-2008, 09:39 AM   #560
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As we "clecoed" the sheets back in, a few of them didn't want to fit flush at the bottom, next to the floor, even tho everything else lined up properly. What we did was trim off a small piece of the wall at the bottom. No more than about 1/8" needed to be trimed. This normally occured where two pieces of the new floor butted up to one another. It looks like the basic problem was that either 1) the new floor didn't fit as flush to the frame as the old floor did, or 2) all that POR-15 on the frame and epoxy on the new floor threw the measurements off by just a bit.

If that isn't clear, maybe I can get a couple of pics to illustrate.

Jim
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