|
|
09-07-2007, 09:32 AM
|
#461
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
I didn't realize they were double paned either... man! much nicer than the single panes in all of my turtles! how easy will it be to bend the lexan to fit the window? and will it match the other window when its done? i know you've already thought about all this, just curious.
jp
__________________
• • • • • • • • 8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
09-14-2007, 01:37 PM
|
#462
|
New Member
1976 31' Excella 500
Waukesha
, Wisconsin
Join Date: Jun 2006
Posts: 4
|
Jim and Susan,
I'm new to this site and am also doing a remodel on my 1976 Sovereign. I was reading your post and wondered ....did you find a new or replacement Fresh Water Tank? I cracked mine taking it out and can't find any place that has replacements.
|
|
|
09-14-2007, 01:40 PM
|
#463
|
Rivet Master
1956 22' Safari
2015 27' Flying Cloud
Vintage Kin Owner
Conifer/Evergreen
, Colorado
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 12,702
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by otter
...can't find any place that has replacements.
|
Check Inca Plastics - they have all different sizes, shapes and configurations. They are the "GO TO" folks for vintage trailers & tanks....I believe they made them for Airstream originally - check your existing cracked one for a model or part number.
Shari
|
|
|
09-14-2007, 08:55 PM
|
#464
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Otter
Jim and Susan,
I'm new to this site and am also doing a remodel on my 1976 Sovereign. I was reading your post and wondered ....did you find a new or replacement Fresh Water Tank? I cracked mine taking it out and can't find any place that has replacements.
|
Shari is exactly right, Inca was the original supplier for my Airstream.
Mine had a model number T1237, I think. It’s printed on the bottom of the tank. You can find them on the internet. I tried to contact them on by phone and email, but never got a response.
Inland RV and Oasis RV both have plastic replacements that are virtually identical to yours. But, they run around $500 delivered to your (my) door. For the same money, I could literally have a stainless steel replacement made. In my case, I was able to clean up and repair mine to work properly. If I ever do need to replace it, I’m going the stainless route. I’m trading a little money for a little weight. And the money stays in my hometown.
Just my 2 cents.
Jim
|
|
|
09-16-2007, 09:26 AM
|
#465
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
... and you can put a little bling on the stainless tank!
i bet you'd be the ONLY guy with a polished holding tank on the forums!
jp
__________________
• • • • • • • • 8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
12-30-2007, 05:39 PM
|
#466
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Well, lookey here. We actually managed to get a couple of things done over the holidays. We ordered a piece of “smoke” colored Lexan form a local shop and managed to rebuild the rock guard. Came out really nice. Total cost was about $200—less that half the cost of a new one. What we did was use the old frame from the original and cut the new Lexan to fit. Very simple, actually.
We decided not to reinstall the arms that hold the thing up, so we will have to lift it manually as needed. The only thing that I’m not really happy with is that the Lexan wasn’t as dark as I wanted. But what the heck, now I can (in theory) see all the way thru the Airstream in the rear view mirror with the curtains open, of course.
The Lexan is 1/8”. We cut it with a jig saw using a smooth cut blade. Measurements are the key to making the whole thing work. The installation isn’t complete, yet. We were able to do the rebuild yesterday in the shop, but it has been raining here for three days (thank the Lord), so I don’t have the install work on the shell completed yet. Maybe in a day or two.
Jim
|
|
|
01-05-2008, 07:33 PM
|
#467
|
Rivet Master
1976 31' Sovereign
ozark
, Missouri
Join Date: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,040
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Well, lookey here. We actually managed to get a couple of things done over the holidays. We ordered a piece of “smoke” colored Lexan form a local shop and managed to rebuild the rock guard. Came out really nice. Total cost was about $200—less that half the cost of a new one. What we did was use the old frame from the original and cut the new Lexan to fit. Very simple, actually.
We decided not to reinstall the arms that hold the thing up, so we will have to lift it manually as needed. The only thing that I’m not really happy with is that the Lexan wasn’t as dark as I wanted. But what the heck, now I can (in theory) see all the way thru the Airstream in the rear view mirror with the curtains open, of course.
The Lexan is 1/8”. We cut it with a jig saw using a smooth cut blade. Measurements are the key to making the whole thing work. The installation isn’t complete, yet. We were able to do the rebuild yesterday in the shop, but it has been raining here for three days (thank the Lord), so I don’t have the install work on the shell completed yet. Maybe in a day or two.
Jim
|
I think it looks great Jim. Way to go man!
|
|
|
01-14-2008, 10:08 PM
|
#468
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Finally got around to removing the roadside wing window. I actually got this one out with breaking anything. Decided to try a different tactic on this one.
What I did was to drill a 1/8" whole just above or beside the screw (depending upon where the screw was located on the frame). Then, I filled the whole with "PB Blaster", one of those products designed to loosen "frozen" bolts, screws and so on. Waited a day and soaked it again. Same thing on day three. On day four, most of the screws backed right out with a standard Phillips screw driver and a little muscle power. Unfortunately, the bottom screws were just too rusted and broke when I tried them. I wound up having to drill them out the same as the other window. Still, a MUCH easier (and less destructive) experience this time around.
The only real problem now is cleaning all that PB Blaster outta there. That's gonna take several days of flushing with water, soap, etc. The other thing I figured out is that rubbing alcohol works great to clean all that old butyl off the window frames ans surrounding areas.
I'm hoping that I can now move on with this project. I'm tired of fiddling with windows.
|
|
|
01-14-2008, 11:31 PM
|
#469
|
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
The problem with the Lexan is that everything I'm finding is much too narrow for the frame. I'll keep looking. SafariTim did this on his Safari, or something like it. I've got to go back to his site and reread how he did it.
Jim
|
You can find the info on how I did mine on my website in my sig line.
I used like 3/32". Probably 1/8" would have been better. I was not able to reuse he rubber gasket and had lots of leak issues.
If I had to do it again, I'd do it like this....
If you cannot use or find the gasket, after you make a cardboard template and cut your lexan to match, put some blue tape like 3/8" in all around from the edge on both sides. Then fill the grove with vulkem and slide the lexan in place and secure the straight edge.
After putting a bead of vulkem around the opening, refasten the frame with olympic rivets. Clean up the vulkem around the frame with mineral spirits and towels. Smooth the vulkem sealing the lexan to the frame. After it sets up a while remove the blue tape.
Good luck!
|
|
|
01-15-2008, 09:30 AM
|
#470
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Looks like I need to learn the difference between "hole" and "whole" (see above).
Tim, that's pretty much the way I did it. I was able to get a scrap piece of of 1/8 clear Lexan at Lowes for $15.00. I used your cardboard template idea to cut to size. Instead of using Vulkem in the frame, I use butyl. Once it was all back together, I sealed around the outside of the new Lexan window with Vulkem to keep the moisture out. Been working well since I put it all back together a couple of months ago.
Jim
|
|
|
02-25-2008, 07:53 PM
|
#471
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Anybody wanna take a shot at what this is gonna be?
Jim
|
|
|
02-25-2008, 07:55 PM
|
#472
|
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern
, California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
|
I like the idea of butyl tape. Much cleaner to work with. Good job!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Looks like I need to learn the difference between "hole" and "whole" (see above).
Tim, that's pretty much the way I did it. I was able to get a scrap piece of of 1/8 clear Lexan at Lowes for $15.00. I used your cardboard template idea to cut to size. Instead of using Vulkem in the frame, I use butyl. Once it was all back together, I sealed around the outside of the new Lexan window with Vulkem to keep the moisture out. Been working well since I put it all back together a couple of months ago.
Jim
|
|
|
|
02-25-2008, 08:01 PM
|
#473
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
I'm trying, very hard, to get the last of the interior stuff done this week so that I can finally get the insulation back in, then the walls.
Here's a couple of pics of the window work that's been going on. All of the window guides were brittle and broken. I ordered new ones from Out-of-Doors Mart They sell a kit that includes everything you need to do one window.
While I had that stuff apart, I sanded and painted the support arms and the steel mounts on the windows. Looks better in person, BTW. When you put the nut back on the arm, put a drop of the Threadlock on there to keep them from working lose going down the road.
|
|
|
02-25-2008, 08:08 PM
|
#474
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Finally got all of the 110v ac work completed and buttoned up. You can read about here http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ion-39147.html if you need a substitute for yer Somenex.
|
|
|
02-25-2008, 08:12 PM
|
#475
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Finally stuck a crowbar in my wallet and bought one of those $15.00 bolts from Airstream to repair the lower step. No pics of that one. Out of Doors Mart carries those as well.
I was talking with Dan Brown over there the other day and he tells me that they have gotton hold of some of the more hard to find parts for door locks. Take a look at their site or give Dan a call. Those folks are easy to deal with and are dern nice people.
Jim
|
|
|
02-26-2008, 03:08 AM
|
#476
|
Addicted to Aluminum
1959 18' "Footer"
1964 24' Tradewind
1954 29' Liner
Woodstock
, Georgia
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,015
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
Anybody wanna take a shot at what this is gonna be?
Jim
|
A nice looking piece of sealed wood?
:-D
JP
__________________
• • • • • • • • 8576 • • • • • • • •
there's always room for one more!
|
|
|
02-26-2008, 08:22 AM
|
#477
|
Loco Airstreamer
1970 23' Safari
Denton
, Texas
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 88
|
Back in the Metal Again
Well, it has been a long time away - while my 23' '70 Safari has waited patiently in the driveway. Thanks for understanding neighbors. Now, business has slowed enough (Catch 22) that I can get back to my own full monty. The inside skins started coming off this past weekend and to make it just that much more difficult, I have been removing the vinylclad as much as possible before pealing the skins. Some adhesive and edges left due to overlap and such - but much easier than working overhead and vertical. The looming question (and I have been looking through this thread - the Mother of all Threads) is - how are folks pulling off the Full Monte (FM) now? What kind of weight am I dealing with? Any traveling pros out there? If build the device to pull this off, will anyone want to use it after I am finished (always looking for a business angle)? Thanks all, Shannon Drawe
|
|
|
02-26-2008, 08:35 AM
|
#478
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Greetings! First, a question for you. Are you actually removing the vinyl from the aluminum inner walls? I'd love to see some pics and an explanation of how you're doing that.
As to removing the shell from the frame, I didn't actually do that, but many others have. There are several ways to do it. Generally, it involves removing the interior, then the rivets along the bottom of the shell, then building a frame inside the camper to keep the shell from deforming too much. The shell can then be lifted off using a couple of differnet methods. I may be able to provide a couple of links tonight showing how others have done it.
Good luck and let us know how it's going.
Jim
|
|
|
02-26-2008, 01:56 PM
|
#479
|
Rivet Master
1963 26' Overlander
Austin
, Texas
Join Date: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,640
|
I've just spent a couple of hours reading through this thread, and I realized about halfway through that the dates at the top were getting too close to present, while the number of remaining pages was becoming too few, for me to hope to see pictures of a finished product. I can't deny that I'm a bit disappointed, but I suppose I'm just selfish that way!
Anyway, you've done some great work, and I've learned a lot while following your restoration.
I also just saw that A Merry can posted, and I've been following his restoration as well with great interest (and equal disappointment that I cannot yet see a finished product ).
Not to get too philosophical, but a funny thing are these threads, where a total stranger like me can learn so much about what you've been doing and the small things that have affected your life and your projects over a period of years, while you know nothing at all about me. I'm currently looking for my first vintage AS right now, so perhaps one day soon I can begin my own odyssey, and offer you and others a glimpse into my world, as you have been gracious enough to allow me.
Good luck on the remaining work, and I'll be reading to hear and see how it all turns out.
|
|
|
02-26-2008, 01:57 PM
|
#480
|
Remember, Safety Third
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners
, Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,720
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by A-Merry-Can
A nice looking piece of sealed wood?
:-D
JP
|
Close Actually it's a new cover for one of these:
|
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
Thread Tools |
Search this Thread |
|
|
Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|