Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 01-17-2007, 07:55 AM   #361
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
Images: 260
Sweet! I'm gonna print this...

but first, I have questions (naturally )

you mention "vents 2 and 3". from which end of the trailer are you counting?

when you say "spare"...does that mean there's a wire end just dangling in there, waiting for someone to connect something? or does a wire just pass by the area, waiting for someone to cut and splice in something?
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-17-2007, 09:17 AM   #362
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
Chuck, I'm counting the vents from front to back. The Overlander has 3 rooftop vents. Vent one is in the living room area with a fan. Vent two is in the galley area, vent three in the bedroom area.

Spare means that there is actually a wire with a connector hanging in the area described in the list. Just ditting there waiting to be used.

I think I said it a few posts back, but it looks like Airstream created this wire bundle to be used on several different models. Hence the coiled, excess wire in the ceiling and the spare wires I've found.

Jim
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 01:27 PM   #363
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
Here's the rest of the 12v DC wire. There are a few wires that I still forgot to write down, so I'll describe them in general terms. If any body needs them, I can go get the colors for them.

Other Misc. Wires at Univolt
  • Grey—small gauge wire pulls to “power on” at Control Center over Gaucho
  • Red—small gauge pulls to ammeter at Control Center over Gaucho
  • Black—small gauge pulls to ammeter at Control Center over Gaucho

Those that I forgot are:
  • Black tank sensor wires. These all pull to the Control Panel
  • Fresh tank sensor wires. These all pull to the Control Panel
  • Thermostat wires: Heater pulls from bulkhead between bath/bedroom on curbside in bedroom area.
  • Thermostat wires: Air conditioner pulls from living room area next to bulkhead beside fridge back to base of air conditioner.


__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 01:29 PM   #364
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
The 110v wiring is much simpler than the 12v. Here ya go:

110v wires

There are two 110v AC feeds coming out of the circuit breaker panel.

1. One of these, on a 20 amp breaker, goes directly to the Air Conditioner with no other connections on this wire.

2. The second breaker (also 20 amp) basically feeds everything else in the trailer (AC Current, that is).

This feed starts at the breaker panel and is split into two feeds at the Polarity Light Outlet Box.

2a. The first of the two goes to: The bathroom 110v outlet, then to the Univolt.

2b. The second of these goes to all the 110v outlets in the camper. It starts at the Polarity light outlet and then feeds:
The curbside bedroom outlet, then to
The roadside bedroom outlet, then to
The Galley outlet, then to
The Fridge outlet, then to
The outlet next to fridge in living room, next to antenna connection, then to
The roadside outlet in living room, near front of camper, then back around to
The Galley outlet.

Jim

__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 05:03 PM   #365
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
Been doing some caulking

I decided to caulk (Vulkem, etc) many areas of the interior. Just thought I’d throw a couple of pics out there. I have re-sealed everything from the back up to the galley area. Had some beautiful weather last week, so was able to get a bunch done. Here’s my “philosophy” of sealing/caulking:

Tremco 635 is what I'm using (primarily using). I've also used Sikaflex 221 and Parrbond. The Tremco 635 is basically what the old Vulkem used to be. You can buy it here: Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!

Vintage Trailer Supply is owned by some really nice folks. I have and will do business with them again.

I'm using the Tremco (Vulkem) in areas where Vulkem was originally used on the camper. There are a couple of reasons for that. First and foremost, most of the Vulkem that was originally on the trailer is still there and in good shape. Where I'm having problems with the Vulkem is in areas where it was not applied properly at the factory, or in areas where leaks occurred for other reasons and weakened the Vulkem or material the Vulkem was applied to. A secondary reason for staying with this product is that, no matter how much work you put into it, you can't get all of the old stuff off. I figure the few bits that remain won't interfere with the properties of the new.

I'm using Sikaflex (for the most part) in areas that didn't have any sealant on them in the first place. For example, the rivets on the inside of shell (the tail that sticks in thru the outer skin). I've found several leaking (probably from day one, based on the stain patterns I've seen).

Last, I'm using Parrbond in areas that need small, hidden seams, sealed that I can later get to if need be (like where the belly pan attaches to the side of the camper).


Just the way I’m doing it, your results may vary.

Jim
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Caulking 1.jpg
Views:	129
Size:	157.5 KB
ID:	31109   Click image for larger version

Name:	Caulking 2.jpg
Views:	121
Size:	178.0 KB
ID:	31110  

__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 01-21-2007, 05:25 PM   #366
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
I decided to play around with a couple of LED’s, just because, well I think they are cool. That, and they pull almost no juice. The light above the door was shot and we wanted some light at the steps.

I bought 4 very bright (blue) LED’s at AutoZone to play with. I simply removed the 1157 light above the door and replaced it with the LED. Lots of light from that baby.

Next, my buddy Eric and I built a mount for the other three lights that will shine down on the steps and surrounding area. We cut a 75 degree angle in the 2x4 for the center light. This will hopefully shine on the steps. The two lights left and right of center are mounted on a 60 degree angle. This will hopefully cast light around the rest of the step area. All of this is wired to the first light switch to the right of the door (the “porch” light). Keep in mind that this is not a finished product, so it looks VERY crude. The basic idea was to mount the lights on that short piece of 2x4 and adjust the LED’s to illuminate the area needed. It’s cold and rainy here today, so I didn’t get the chance to mount them and see what the pattern would look like. The 2x4 will be treated for rot, etc, then mounted on “L” brackets above and behind where the step folds up when in travel position. That way, we can move them around to get the correct light pattern in that area. I hope that makes sense.

Jim

Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	LED's 1.JPG
Views:	152
Size:	151.6 KB
ID:	31112   Click image for larger version

Name:	LED's 2.JPG
Views:	136
Size:	168.4 KB
ID:	31113  

__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-15-2007, 08:44 PM   #367
3 Rivet Member
 
geezernbabe's Avatar
 
1970 31' Sovereign
Currently Looking...
Rogue River , Oregon
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 138
Hi guys you have done a great job of keeping us all up to speed on your project it has been helpfull because we are just a little bit behind you on a 1970 31' rear bath that we are changing to a center bath with a greywater tank. Boy it is cool when I get to a problem and I run in the house a look up what is here. Well by for now keep up the good posts. Dave & Penny
geezernbabe is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2007, 06:03 AM   #368
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
Thanks for the kind words Dave and Penny. Keep in mind, tho, that I have no idea what I'm doing! I've had to do a lot of reading around here!

Seriously, one of the reasons I started this thread was so that others could learn from my mistakes and I have made plenty. I need to post some updates as I've been working on it pretty steady since New Years. Well, in between cold weather, anyway. It's very cold here the last month, so I have to work on things when it warms up a bit. I'll try to post more tonight.

Jim
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2007, 09:00 AM   #369
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Jim & Susan, I really like the idea of leds on the steps. It still is too cold to work on the Flying Cloud here. We're going on our first rally in the Bambi on the 22nd. I'm hoping it will be warm enough after that to get to work. Thanks for the modivation.
Don
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2007, 09:23 AM   #370
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
Hey Don, that's one of the updates I need to make with pics. My other buddy, Louie, the A&P mechanic, took one look at my wooden 2 x 4 "mount" for those lights and said ".......lemme give it a shot". Well, I gotta tell ya, what he built is way past cool. I still had a few pieces of that powder coated steel laying around. He took that and the lights back to his garage and in about 30 minutes built a contraption that allows me to rotate the lights up and down to get a good pattern on both the ground and the steps. Man I love it! He got a case of Corona outta the deal!

The LED's are blue light, so it looks nice without blinding you when you walk up to the camper at night. If I could take decent night pictures, I'd include one. I'll play around with the camera this weekend. I'll try to post some pics of the installed product tonight.

Jim

P.S. Yes, it is very cold here as well. I'm trying to work on odds and ends stuff when it's so cold out. When the temp gets above 40 I'm trying to fininsh up the caulking--just too cold when the temp is constanty in the 20's at night/40's in daytime.
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2007, 09:40 AM   #371
Rivet Master
 
Wabbiteer's Avatar
 
1973 27' Overlander
1972 29' Ambassador
St. Paul , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 2,044
Images: 2
Blog Entries: 2
Confession time - I haven''t touched the trailer since December 5th but I have spent money on 'things' to install in trailer, does that count?

I found a couple of 12V halogen 'hockey puck' lamps & sockets in a bargain bin up in Anoka and have been trying to replace the door scare light with them but couldn't solve their high heat w/o leaving an exposed bulb. I'd like to hear Jim's opinion so that may go in its own post soon.

On the stair lamps - think that may be a good place for lowrider neons or the cold-cathode lamps they stuff into computer cases?? If you already have the 12V safely there....
__________________
The days are short and the night is long and the stars go tumbling by.. . ~Airstream~
Wabbiteer is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2007, 09:50 AM   #372
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wabbiteer
Confession time - I haven''t touched the trailer since December 5th but I have spent money on 'things' to install in trailer, does that count?

I found a couple of 12V halogen 'hockey puck' lamps $ sockets in a bargain bin up in Anoka and have been trying to replace the door scare light with them but couldn't solve their high heat w/o leaving an exposed bulb. I'd like to hear Jim's opinion so that may go in its own post soon.

On the stair lamps - think that may be a good place for lowrider neons or the cold-cathode lamps they stuff into computer cases??
I know what you mean it's just too dang COLD! My idea right now is to use either the type of halgens you're talking about or maybe LED's inside the trailer for the main lighting. There is an LED that is made to plug directly into the 1157 type socket that you have in the scare light. No heat and practically no electricty used. Advace/Auto Zone/O'Reilly's all carry them around here for six or seven dollars each.

I thought about the neons, but they just a bit too "NOPI" for me. These LED's turned out nice.

Jim
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-16-2007, 03:46 PM   #373
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
Here's a couple of pics of the lights. After Louie put all this together, I postioned the lights and painted the whole thing black so it would kind of blend in under the steps. You don't see it if you aren't looking for it. I still have to rivet a small aluminum shroud along the bottom and paint that. And wrap those wires, but it works well. Lots-o-light for the door/step area now.

Jim
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Step Lights.JPG
Views:	104
Size:	169.7 KB
ID:	32430   Click image for larger version

Name:	Step Lights 2.JPG
Views:	107
Size:	174.6 KB
ID:	32431  

Click image for larger version

Name:	Step Lights 3.JPG
Views:	102
Size:	164.3 KB
ID:	32432  
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2007, 05:33 PM   #374
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
Not the best pic in the world, but this is what it looks like in the dark. More than enough blue light to see your way around in the dark. Sorry, but I like the blue. There are three lights mounted above and behind the stairs and one above the door. Makes a nice, brite pattern around the steps and ground leading up to the camper.


Jim
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Blue light.jpg
Views:	143
Size:	70.7 KB
ID:	32568  
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2007, 05:48 PM   #375
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
Dang-Blasted Leaks!

…are driving me crazy. I’ve been trying to seal leaks from back to front and thought I had all of ‘em up to the door. Well….it isn’t exactly working out that way. I still have a couple of leaks in the rear that I can’t find. Louie (that guy is a prince among men) showed me how to pour some water w/dish soap along the seams back there and blow air from the air compressor into the leak area from the inside, makes bubbles on the outer skin. Makes sense, right? We found the leaks and I carefully sealed them. It still leaks! Arggggg! A few pics may help out here. The first is where the leaks shows up on the inside. The second is where the air bubbled up on the outside of the camper. Makes perfect sense when you closely look at that seam from the outside…..there’s a buckle in the seam there.

More to follow….
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Leak rear 1.JPG
Views:	128
Size:	188.1 KB
ID:	32569   Click image for larger version

Name:	Leak rear 3.JPG
Views:	115
Size:	158.0 KB
ID:	32570  

__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-18-2007, 06:32 PM   #376
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
So I sealed the entire area with Sikaflex 221 Grey. The pic shows the area around the window with painter’s tape still applied. Directly below that, you can see the finished product on the vertical seam below the window (where we found the leaks via the air compressor/dish soap experiment). Still, a leak.

The Sikaflex is very “goopey” and is hard to work with. But if you use the painters tape, you can get a pretty good line around seams and what I think is a really good seal.

If the dang weather ever warms up, I’m going to repeat the dish soap test and try to find the other leaks.

Jim
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Leak Rear 6.JPG
Views:	111
Size:	167.6 KB
ID:	32571  
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2007, 02:36 PM   #377
3 Rivet Member
 
r&kweber's Avatar
 
1959 22' Flying Cloud
Currently Looking...
Seattle , Washington
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 172
Images: 3
Just finished sealing ALL the seams on the trailer this weekend. We used the forced air method of finding a few leaks, but ultimately decided to invest the time to seal them all from the outside. Luckily for us, Seattle is providing us the perfect weather to test my work

I used Vulkum around the awning rail and drip rails above windows, my is that stuff sticky/goopy! All the seams got Acryl-R, and is SOOO much easier to apply and clean around.

Ryan.
r&kweber is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2007, 02:45 PM   #378
Rivet Master
 
Fyrzowt's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
West of Fort Worth , Texas
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 6,698
Images: 8
Quote:
Originally Posted by r&kweber
Just finished sealing ALL the seams on the trailer this weekend. We used the forced air method of finding a few leaks, but ultimately decided to invest the time to seal them all from the outside. Luckily for us, Seattle is providing us the perfect weather to test my work

I used Vulkum around the awning rail and drip rails above windows, my is that stuff sticky/goopy! All the seams got Acryl-R, and is SOOO much easier to apply and clean around.

Ryan.
Ryan,
When the weather claers, would you post some photos of both the Vulkum and Acryl-R work you did? I'm interested in the final look on each. I need to re-touch a few things.
Thanks, Dave
Fyrzowt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2007, 03:40 PM   #379
Patriotic
 
Chuck's Avatar

 
1973 23' Safari
North of Boston , Massachusetts
Join Date: May 2002
Posts: 4,546
Images: 260
Jim, have you posted a detailed description of that compressed air/bubbles technique?
I'd like to try that...but I'm afraid that there are already too many "known" gaps in my unit where air would leak out too easily to create enough + pressure inside the unit to reveal seam leaks....maybe it doesn't take that much (?).

have you tried parbond on any of those types of seams? It tends to "wick" into those small seams all by itself, and its runny enough that you don't even need to mask to apply it...the end result is that you can barely see it when you're done. I fixed a leak on a similar spot last spring...vertical seam on the front panel. well..."fixed" as far as I know...no more wet spot on the plywood floor just behind the seam. Obviously, I can't see the detail that you can, with the walls removed.
__________________
Air:291
Wbcci: 3752
'73 Safari 23'
'00 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 QC
Chuck is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 02-19-2007, 03:52 PM   #380
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Possum Trot , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,587
Images: 39
I did use Parbond on a couple of seam areas initially. Maybe I need to go back to it. The Sikaflex seems to be a little easier to work in some aspects. I used Parbond all the way around the belly pan seam except in one radius area where the gap was too big.

I'll post a step by step on the "Air-Bubble" method to find the leaks.

Jim
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Favorite Jerry-Rig? Dave Cole General Repair Forum 58 10-07-2013 09:50 AM
Part Time vs Full Time (Days/Year) InsideOut Community Polls 30 10-23-2005 09:43 AM
Full Time RVer's awsome site! Forrest Link Archive 1 02-10-2003 12:36 PM
Twin rear beds DClark General Interior Topics 15 11-24-2002 08:49 PM
Full timeing Airstreem T/T/ tec12 Our Community 7 11-13-2002 01:13 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:32 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.