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pinkflamingoes · 09-04-2006, 08:53 PM

Thanks for the pictures, I'll be looking for them.

I think you could make a lot of difference with the sprayer and POR15, even if you don't cover everything. You could even tie the handle down with a rubber band, stick that nozzle all the way in, and start pumping away while you pull the nozzle back towards you. If you make a mess and waste a lot of paint, that's still a lot less money and heartache than the potential damage to your trailer should something break.

Here's another crazy idea; you know those foam brushes that are shaped like toilet scrubbers, only they are out of sponge pieces? You could soak one of those in POR15 and stick it in there and scrub it in and out, kind of like the old days when the soldiers had to push whatever-it-was down the barrel of their rifles. Again; wasteful of paint and likely very messy, but probably worth the peace of mind.

I'll read over the posts again to try to get a mental picture in the meantime.

Jim & Susan · 09-05-2006, 04:41 AM

Ingrid, I like the sponge idea, I'll look around and see what I can find. Also, having too much POR in there is not necessarily a bad thing, I suppose. Better safe than sorry, and so on.

Jim

Chuck · 09-05-2006, 08:16 AM

Pump cans...something I know a little bit about, as a former lawncare tech, the pump can was my right hand.

First of all, I don't think there'd be a big problem with waste in just about any size sprayer. But, they also come in a wide variety of sizes. I've seen them as small as 1 gallon. But what I'm thinking is that you could just use one of the 1 or 2 quart pump-up spray bottles. They use the same basic mechanism as the pump can...the whole bottle gets pressurized with a pump; then a trigger release lets it out through a nozzle. But they're great for mixing small quantities. They kind of fill the gap between a trigger/spray bottle and a full sized pump can.

anyway...you could adapt the spray wand or nozzle on any of these devices, attach some 1/4" tubing in whatever length you need with a small hose clamp, and put the nozzle parts on the end of that...fish it through the channel, squeeze the trigger, and pull it back out slowly. You could even duct-tape a spacer block onto the end of the hose that'll hold the nozzle up off the floor of the channel to insure an even spray pattern.

Jim & Susan · 09-05-2006, 09:21 AM

So Chuck, are you saying use a 1 or 2 quart garden sprayer? I can buy one at the local garden supply store? Wally world? I don't recall ever seeing one that small. I think the smallest I've seen is a one gallon.

Jim

Chuck · 09-05-2006, 10:27 AM

yep. Sears has them, for sure. I'll see if I can google one up for ya...

here's another link: http://www.doityourself.com/invt/6634232

NorCal Bambi · 09-06-2006, 06:56 AM

Chuck, Thanks for the idea. I had considered doing something along this line as an experiment. Nice to know it's been done before. I have a question about por 15. How will it work without any cleaning of the surface first. Since we can't get inside the channel to do any cleaning before spraying. I had use Eastwood rust encapsulator on our Bambi and it requires removing surface loose rust before application. Any ideas on this.
Don

59toaster · 09-06-2006, 07:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

So, anybody else got any ideas? At this point, I’m leaning towards solution number one (in some form) and just do the best I can with it (knowing that I won’t be able to cover everything.

Jim

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...001271/c-10101

and

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...Group?Ntt=rust

Chuck · 09-06-2006, 08:36 AM

Well, there ya go, someone's already made a sprayer for the job.

Quote:

Originally Posted by norcal bambi

Nice to know it's been done before.

I haven't done it before. It was just a suggestion.

I've adapted plenty of spray equipment before...but not with the intention of rust proofing the inside of a trailer frame.

no expert on POR-15, either, but my understanding is that those initials are an acronym for Paint OVER Rust. If there isn't any rust, you need a special prep chemical. I think they just want you to scrape off the loose stuff with a wire brush. Maybe one of those furnace repair wire brushes with a long bendy handle that they use for cleaning out furnace pipes and the like would work well, followed by a shot of compressed air.

pinkflamingoes · 09-06-2006, 04:52 PM

I agree with Chuck. As long as the loose stuff is off, and maybe push a rag (maybe even wet?) through there with a stick, the POR15 should stick to it nicely. It adheres to rust that isn't loose very tightly.
I'm going to be doing this within the week...I have an extra sprayer I can clean out and use. I thought I was getting close to being done with the black stuff, but nope...

Waynon · 09-06-2006, 05:21 PM

I noticed a few posts back that y'all recommended replacing the fresh water tank. After three years of using my AS (96 Excella 34') only with water hook-ups I found today that my fresh water tank has been repaired and the patch (naturally) did not hold. Where can I get a replacement tank (55gal) and how much will it set me back?
Waynon
waynon@yahoo.com

Jim & Susan · 09-06-2006, 05:43 PM

Waynon, in the process of removing my floor, I inadvertently cut the top of the water tank. Once I got it removed, I took it to the local RV dealer and they repaired it. Basically, all they did was to clean the cut (straight line, clean cut) and weld (actually melt) some plastic into the cut area. Holds nicely. I have read on this forum that folks have done the same for themselves. But, I don't know the particulars of how they did it (what type of plastic, where to buy it, how hot do you have to heat it, etc.

In my case, it cost about $90 for the repair. A new water tank was in the range of $500. Your camper is new enough that an Airstream dealer may be able to get one for you. Check with them first, then do a search here for alternate sources. Also price the repair instead of new. You will most likely need to remove the tank and take to a repair place. But you're gonna have to take it out anyway, one way or another.

Jim & Susan · 09-08-2006, 07:10 AM

Thought I would pass this on FYI. Figured out a good way to store unused POR-15.

If you've ever opened a can of this stuff, you know that you must close it right away with a plastic/cellophane sheet between the lid and can or it will start to dry out and, of course, become useless. Every time you open the can, you have to pound the lid back on. On two of the three cans I bought, the can began to deform from all of the easy hammer blows. Can number two actually dried completely out (and expanded to the point that it burst the side of the can) with about an inch of POR left in the bottom.

SO, shut up and tell me how to do this, right? Mason jars. We happened to have several sizes of mason jars lying around the house. When I got down to about a pint left, I poured the left over into three mason jars. Two of the small “jelly jars” and one of the pint sized jars. Seal these jars with the Mason brand snap lids and bands (similar to how you would if canning food, just DO NOT boil the jars!).

When you are ready to use a small amount of POR, like I am currently doing, a bit here and there as I finish work on the frame, open the smallest jar, dip out what you need for the immediate task, then clean the lip of the jar and reseal. TaDa!!

A couple of words of caution. Make sure the snap lid and lip of the glass has no POR on it when it is time to close up the jar. If the snap lid becomes fouled with the POR, simply throw it away and use a new snap lid (they’re cheap and you by them in a box of a dozen). If the glass becomes fouled, carefully clean off as much as possible and use a new snap lid to close the jar. Make sure you have an airtight seal! You cannot reuse the Mason jar when all of the POR is gone (obvious). If the POR begins to dry out, it will shatter the Mason Jar, because as it dries, it expands.

OK, I’ve been up since yesterday morning, I’ll shut up and go to my corner now.

Jim

Mel · 09-08-2006, 08:53 AM

Jim, thanks for the mason jar tip! We have a few mostly-used cans of POR15 sitting around our garage, just waiting to be thrown out. Will keep that in mind the next time we buy a fresh can.

pinkflamingoes · 09-08-2006, 05:51 PM

This won't fix the problem of the can sealing shut after using it and closing it again, but...

put a piece of plastic (kind of thick, not Saran-Wrap) over the top of the open can, gently tap the lid back on, and turn the can upside down inside of another container of some kind (in case it does leak). This way, the paint seals the can airtight and hopefully you'll be able to get it open again. I also store it in the 'fridge.

Just my 2 cents...

Jim & Susan · 09-10-2006, 07:37 PM

First things first. Ingrid, sorry it took so long, but here are the pics of the A-frame. You can see why it is called an “A” frame in pic number one. It’s a bit more difficult to see how it attaches to the main frame rails in pic number two because of the blackness of the POR; it distorts the images because it doesn’t reflect much light. But, the point is that the A-frame is a separate assembly that is welded to the main frame. It’s the inside of these frames and rails that are at issue here. More on that in my next post.

Jim

Jim & Susan · 09-10-2006, 08:24 PM

Long narrative coming, little progress to report.

Searched all afternoon yesterday for a sprayer like Chuck suggested. We looked in five shops around town, nada. So I guess it’s back to my B-B-Q brush idea and hope for the best. This will be my first real “shortcut” to date. It’ll be alright (won’t it?).

So, after the great search for a sprayer, I go out and start putting the last bolts in for the frame buttresses and my buddy Eric and family show up. We started working with ASRT #2 (described a couple of pages back). Yep, you guessed it. Time to fire up the grill and forget about life for a while.

Today, I’m determined to get the poop tank back in properly and get those A-frame parts POR’ed properly. I get wrapped around the axle, so to speak, over the poop tank, because the damn thing won’t line up. I spend about 2 hours messing around with that and never make it to the A-frame. ASRT #2 shows up again and I’m done for the day. Will the belly pan ever get back on this camper? ARGGGG!!!

Jim

pinkflamingoes · 09-11-2006, 08:34 PM

Thanks for those pictures. I'm going to take a second look at mine while the belly pan's off, and post pics (that's the only fun we get to have, those of us in the middle of remodeling!!)

I'm betting once you get down to trying whatever "might" work with getting that POR15 in there, you'll either be successful or inspired by failure!! The solution always seems to come after you've already gotten started. Good luck and keep us posted (so we don't have to reinvent the wheel when we do it...)

Jim & Susan · 09-12-2006, 03:15 PM

Ingred, that's the idea! Learn from each other. I would have been completly lost without this forum. I'm kinda handy, but the experience of others is invaluable. I'll keep everybody posted.

Jim

pinkflamingoes · 09-12-2006, 09:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

I would have been completly lost without this forum. Jim

ME TOO.

And I don't know if I'd still be having fun (I am).

2333 · 09-13-2006, 07:10 PM

First I need to say thanks for the Forum and to all those who participate. We just got our first AS,a 1961 Tradewind (4 weeks ago) and I started searching for resto information on the web... and found the forums. Though it takes a bit of effort to find exactly what your looking for, it is somewhere in this forum! I am blown away by the number of people looking at the site right now, definitely makes you feel part of larger purpose to save these american icons.
I have learned a lot from Jim and Susan's thread:

ARST#2 tool, by any name, is thee essential tool for any restoration/rebuild.
If I don't gut it, drop the belly pans, and pull the floor, I am kidding myself (there's 45 years of something under there!)
It took me 5 nights to read through the thread up to this point and I couldn't, like a good book, put in down! ..and I foolishly thought that when I got past #300 post, the polishing would have started. I have joined the lunatic faithful.

So, thanks again to everyone. Folks seem very friendly and helpful. I plan on starting my own thread (a full Monte II), in the least to document the fun. I just need to learn to post pics. It, whatever that is, has already started.....
Today I pulled the AS to a shop to have a new axle, electric brakes, the works put on, right? I learned from this forum not to mess around with that. Got a call from the shop because the tech had dropped the grey water tank next to the axle (?) and was immediately swarmed with spiders, lots of them. Apparently resistant to the bug spray he used. So bad he said, that he can't do the axle right now. Wow, the fun has begun!
Craig