Free 7 Day Trial RV GPS App RV Trip Planner Campground Reviews RV Maintenance Free 7 Day Trial ×
 


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 07-18-2006, 08:07 PM   #281
Rivet Master
 
ALANSD's Avatar

 
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,523
A lot of Airstreamin' repairs going on in GA this summer! You guys are inspiring. And I am perspiring doing the partial Monte in this 95 degree plus heat.
Thankfully my repairs are relatively light.
__________________
1966 overlander..sold
AIR #005
Please visit our blogs and web pages:
OUR AIRSTREAM PASSION! BLOG
RESTORING AN AIRSTREAM
retired!
ALANSD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-18-2006, 11:21 PM   #282
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALANSD
..... I am perspiring doing the partial Monte in this 95 degree plus heat.
Thankfully my repairs are relatively light.
Supposed to be 99 here on Wednesday. I'm working nights the rest of the week. Sure hope the A/C keeps up at home tomorrow, or I'll never be able to sleep.

Jim
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2006, 06:24 AM   #283
Rivet Master
 
ALANSD's Avatar

 
1966 26' Overlander
Woodstock , Georgia
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 8,523
good luck. I just heard over the weekend it will drop into the 80's and some rain is coming thankfully..
Went tubing in Helen yesterday taking the kids for a break from the routine..lots of fun in the cool river.
__________________
1966 overlander..sold
AIR #005
Please visit our blogs and web pages:
OUR AIRSTREAM PASSION! BLOG
RESTORING AN AIRSTREAM
retired!
ALANSD is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2006, 03:54 PM   #284
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
So I finally got all of the parts together to cure my saggy butt. He’s what we did.

A local metal shop made up some 3/16” thickness steel inserts to fit on the inside of the existing main frame rail. We had three of these made for each side of the frame rail (roadside and curbside). That’s the long pieces seen in picture one. These were bolted in place using many 1/4” bolts and lock nuts. Took about 130 bolts altogether.

More to follow.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Taile sag 1.jpg
Views:	153
Size:	185.4 KB
ID:	24635   Click image for larger version

Name:	Tail sag 9.jpg
Views:	167
Size:	134.7 KB
ID:	24636  

__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2006, 04:23 PM   #285
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
If you look closely at pic number two, the bolts all the way to the right. The frame in the area is more that double the normal size (in thickness). You are looking at the curbside, aft of the wheels. This is because the axles are bolted to the frame around there. I figured if the frame was twice as big as normal there, then suddenly drops back to normal size, AND all of that extra weight is on the back end of the frame…..there must be a connection between the frames breaking behind the wheels and weak frames (Duh). So my solution was to add extra steel back there.

Can’t afford a welder to come out. Don’t own a welder, and don’t know how to weld. But I can use a drill and turn a wrench. So I had a local shop make up those pieces in the first pic. The big ones, not the smaller ones laying on top of the heavy duty steel.
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-13-2006, 04:37 PM   #286
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
Now to those smaller, wimpy looking pieces in pic one. When you bolt up the big, beefy pieces, they obviously fit BETWEEN the lateral frame members on the INSIDE of the main rail. Therefore, you must tie them together on the OUTSIDE of the main rail in some way. This is so that you have a single, “secondary” frame bolted to the main frame rails from the axle assembly to the rear of the camper. See the pic. Does this make sense?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Tail Sag 5.jpg
Views:	145
Size:	136.1 KB
ID:	24637  
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 02:09 PM   #287
4 Rivet Member
 
ankornuta's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Lowell , Massachusetts
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 435
Images: 22
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
See the pic. Does this make sense?
I don't totally follow what you did from the pics and description. However, the big question; did it fix the problem? If so, congrats!

P.S. I like your signature.
ankornuta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 03:50 PM   #288
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
Well, I was affraid of that. Between my poor explanation and the poor picture quality, it doesn't make a lot of sense. Let me take another run at it.

BTW, this fix will not pull the sag out of the frame, it will only keep it from getting worse. I'm lucky in that there is only a small amout of tail sag, so hopefully it won't be an issue over the long run. Everything put back on the camper fits pretty well, so far.
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 04:05 PM   #289
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
Take a look at the main frame rail. Airstream Specialty Repair Tool (ASRT) #2 is sitting on top of the curbside main frame rail. Notice that it is shaped like a “C” and the “C” points inward, toward the center of the trailer.

The new steel pieces I bought are made like the main frame rail, only smaller, so that they can fit inside the main frame rail. In other words, when installed, the new pieces point in the same direction as the main rail, towards the center of the trailer. Does that kinda make more sense?
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Tail sag 13.jpg
Views:	138
Size:	152.2 KB
ID:	24709  
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 04:28 PM   #290
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
There are six pieces that fit inside the main rail (3 for the roadside, 3 for the curbside. These are the six large pieces that you see in pic number 1 in post 284. More about the two smaller pieces that are laying top on the bigger pieces in a minute.

These pieces are installed beginning just behind the axles and run all the way to about a foot from the back end of the trailer (they end a little forward of ASRT #2). The reason that there are three separate pieces is that there are lateral cross members that are welded between the road side and curbside main rails. Maybe this pic from underneath, looking out will help.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Tail sag 10.jpg
Views:	140
Size:	184.2 KB
ID:	24710  
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 04:38 PM   #291
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
Now to the smaller pieces mentioned before. The inner pieces, since there are three, have to be tied to the together in some way in order to tie everything together (the old main frame and the new inner pieces). Since the lateral cross members are in the way on the inside of the frame, the solution is to use another piece of steel on the outside of the main rail that is bolted thru to the other new pieces on the inside. This pic shows the roadside tie piece, because it is covered in Vulkem mostly because we got too much on this piece and got everywhere, inside and out!(more on the Vulkem in a minute). It makes the contrast of the pic stand out a bit. In this case, the outside piece ties together piece number 2 & 3 on the inside.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Tail sag 12.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	143.4 KB
ID:	24711  
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 04:43 PM   #292
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
The Vulkem is used as a medium between the various steel pieces to minimize friction. Any quality sealant like Vulkem would probably work, I just had a lot of Vulkem laying around.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Tail sag 3.jpg
Views:	122
Size:	186.9 KB
ID:	24712  
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 05:14 PM   #293
4 Rivet Member
 
ankornuta's Avatar
 
Currently Looking...
Lowell , Massachusetts
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 435
Images: 22
Ohhhh... I understand what you've done now. Yes, that does make sense. I like how often "ASRT #2s" appear in all the photos throughout this thread.
ankornuta is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-14-2006, 05:20 PM   #294
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
ASRT #2 is an absolute necessity for this project. ‘Course, it could also explain why it’s taking so dang long to complete, now that I think about it.
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2006, 07:40 PM   #295
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
Well, after three weeks I finally got back at it. These two pics are of the last two pieces if the bracing for the tail. In this case, they tie together new piece # 1 & #2. There is an outrigger in the way on the outside of the main rail and a lateral frame member in the way on the inside. The result is to build a couple of brackets to fit in front of and behind the lateral member, then bolt thru the member to attach the new brackets to one another. These are in temporarily, got to take them back out and POR-15 ‘em.

Also spent time today drilling out the last of the rivets in the outriggers/lateral members that I missed or forgot to take out before the POR went on. Do yourself a BIG favor, takes these out BEFORE the POR goes on. Man, what a pain.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Tail sag 14.jpg
Views:	96
Size:	153.6 KB
ID:	25544   Click image for larger version

Name:	Tail sag 15.jpg
Views:	124
Size:	151.6 KB
ID:	25545  

__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2006, 08:25 PM   #296
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
Safari Tim, I love ya man, but you gave me a whole new thing to worry about in your latest issue of The Vap (WWW.THEVAP.COM). Actually, Rob and Collin gave me something new to worry about. I heard the story about the A-frame on a Trailer they were towing into the steep Walmart parking lot entrance breaking. I knew I needed to do some work on the A frame, but that story really got me thinking.

The A-frame is welded to the inside of the main rails on my ’73. In that area of the trailer, both are “box” frame arrangements. I had seen rust down in there before, and the bottom of the boxed area have some pitting. Naturally, I got worried about the dang thing failing.

The pitting on the underside isn’t “too bad” (fingers crossed here). Just kidding, there are a couple of places on the main rail that are rusted thru, BUT, they are associated with the previously drilled rivet holes that hold the belly pan on. The top and sides of the main rail are in perfect shape. I think POR-15 can be applied here fairly easily (on the inside of the box steel on the main rail). I have a new Barbeque mop that can be fitted to a make-shift handle and pushed thru the opening. It’s not the best idea, but should work fairly well.

Now to the A-frame itself. I had noticed some flaking rust at the back of the A-frame. Enough that you could pull in out of the A-frame box with your finger. Got to get that outta there. How to do it? Coat hanger? Broom handle? Air compressor. What I did was to crank up the air compressor, rubber band the air nozzle in the open position and start shoving it in and out, back and forth from front to back, back to front, etc. Look at the pile of stuff that came out. That’s a bunch of rust! Luckily, the A-frame has only a very small area of pitting, and it is not rusted thru anywhere. Soooo, the questions for everybody are as follows:

How the heck do I get the POR-15 down inside the A-Frame? The shape is such that I can’t get my home-brewed-BBQ-Mop-Paint-Brush-thing in there, at least not more a few inches in the hitch end, and about a foot on the back end. Any professional auto painters out there?

Any reason I should genuinely be worried about the frame failing here?

What else am I missing?

Jim
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	A Frame 1.jpg
Views:	111
Size:	177.5 KB
ID:	25548   Click image for larger version

Name:	A Frame 2.jpg
Views:	100
Size:	141.6 KB
ID:	25549  

Click image for larger version

Name:	A Frame 3.jpg
Views:	117
Size:	130.3 KB
ID:	25550  
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2006, 11:19 PM   #297
Rivet Master
 
NorCal Bambi's Avatar
 
1963 16' Bambi
1955 22' Flying Cloud
Yreka , California
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 1,313
Images: 21
Jim & Susan, you raise a good question. How to coat the inside of the box type frame channel. I plan on pulling my frame out tomorrow and starting the restoration process. I hope someone comes up with an easy fix. I'll be watching for answers also. On my system of bracing for the shell. What doesn't show up in the pictures is that I have use lag type bolts to hold together all the places where bracing crosses each other. The bolts are counter sunk in the 3 1/2" dimension of the 2x4s. I'll take another set of pictures tomorrow and put them in my thread.
Don
NorCal Bambi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-03-2006, 11:44 PM   #298
a.k.a. Ambassador Tim
 
Safari Tim's Avatar
 
1960 28' Ambassador
Northern , California
Join Date: Jun 2003
Posts: 1,921
Images: 35
Thanks for listening to the show. Sorry it got you all worked up :-)

It got me too. I went back to the welder while the trailer was still there and cut my belly skin back just as it entered the front and found a small amount of pitting as well. I had the welder add some support to both sides in the form of angle iron welded to the bottom of the box channel and to the out side extended under the trailer about a foot and out from the trailer about 10 inches or so.

As far as painting the inside of a box channel, if you can figure it out let me know! If you look under your coupler where the ends of the box frame are shaped to fit under the coupler for welding you may find they are open. Just for fun you may be able to dilute the por as directed on the can and spray it in there with an air compressor paint sprayer. No way to know what kind of converage you'd get. In any case when your done, seal that entrance up with a good deal of vulkem to keep the water out of the frame. If you have the occasion to remove the coupler or somehow get in there, seam weld it closed!
__________________
-Tim
1960 International Ambassador 28'
2001 Silverado 2500HD CC 6.0L 4.10
Check out my book: Restoring a Dream
Check out my Airstream book for kids!: Airstream Adventures
theVAP - Airstream Podcast
Safari Tim is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2006, 12:48 AM   #299
Rivet Master
 
pinkflamingoes's Avatar
 
1967 24' Tradewind
Alameda , California
Join Date: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,570
Images: 38
Blog Entries: 3
Send a message via AIM to pinkflamingoes Send a message via Yahoo to pinkflamingoes
I'm a little confused

I have my belly pan off and I'd like to check this out too. Can someone sketch up a picture and let me know where I should be looking for this problem, if I have one? I'm guessing it's where the hitch part goes back into the frame in the shape of an A...? I have a '67 frame and I want to check this out while I can.

Any help or pictures or both, would make me feel a lot better. We went through a lot of trouble to POR15 our otherwise sturdy looking frame and I'd kick myself if I missed something that we could just weld on or bolt on for safety at this point, when we can do it.

Thanks, love the VAP. I'm going to download the mot recent eps now and listen during my latest insomnia attack.

i.
__________________
"Let's look Death in the face and say, 'Whatever man.'"
~ Hurley

ingrid
1967 24' Tradewind #19104 ~ Forums #4449
pinkflamingoes is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-04-2006, 06:48 PM   #300
Remember, Safety Third
 
Jim & Susan's Avatar

 
1973 27' Overlander
Catfish Corners , Georgia
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,606
Images: 39
Hey Tim, that was my obtuse way of saying thanks for the heads up! If I hadn’t heard the show, I probably would have pretty much let it go (i.e. done NOTHING). Now I know I need to do something. Your description of the A-Frame area is pretty much like the ’73. The box channel is open at the front just behind the hitch and at the rear, inside the belly pan. So, in other words, there is open access from both ends of the channel. The problem is that the front opening is restricted because of the way the hitch/coupler is attached. On the inside (or other end), there is also an opening, but about a foot into the channel, the bend is made in such a way you can't get past it.

Ingrid, I’ll make some pictures tomorrow. You have the general idea of the shape/design.

So, how do we fix it? We went to our annual Labor Day BBQ over at my buddy Louis’ house today. If you’ll recall, he’s my A&P mechanic buddy and also my “GO TO guy” when I get stuck on a problem like this.

Solution number one. Buy a new garden sprayer, you know, the pump up kind that you use to spray insecticide on your petunias and begonias. Mix up the POR-15 (diluted/thinned according to the directions on the can), pour it in the sprayer, shove it as far as you can down the channel and spray away. He also suggested drilling holes in the side of the channel so that the sprayer could be pushed in there. I don’t really want to do that; I don’t want to weaken the channel any. There are a couple of problems here. I only have about a pint of POR left. That small amount is going to be lost in a large sprayer like that. The other problem is that the channel is about 7 feet long. The sprayer won’t reach that far. This could POSSIBLY work, IF I can get it far enough down the channel. This is probably the best idea so far.

Solution number two. Linseed oil. Use the same sprayer method above, but use linseed oil instead. The linseed oil will simply coat the area, not paint it. The problem here is that the oil isn’t nearly as long lasting as paint or POR. Additionally, it could smell badly as time goes by. I’ve spent months getting all of the weird smells out of this camper. I don’t think this is a real option.

So, anybody else got any ideas? At this point, I’m leaning towards solution number one (in some form) and just do the best I can with it (knowing that I won’t be able to cover everything.

Jim
__________________
www.nesa.org

Air No. 6427
Jim & Susan is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Favorite Jerry-Rig? Dave Cole General Repair Forum 58 10-07-2013 09:50 AM
Part Time vs Full Time (Days/Year) InsideOut Community Polls 30 10-23-2005 09:43 AM
Full Time RVer's awsome site! Forrest Link Archive 1 02-10-2003 12:36 PM
Twin rear beds DClark General Interior Topics 15 11-24-2002 08:49 PM
Full timeing Airstreem T/T/ tec12 Our Community 7 11-13-2002 01:13 PM


Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by

Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by the Airstream, Inc. or any of its affiliates. Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.



All times are GMT -6. The time now is 07:22 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.