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Old 12-22-2013, 07:12 PM   #121
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I feel like progress has slowed to an absolute crawl (yuck). Once the shell is back on (and I am nervous about getting everything lined up) I anticipate some good progress. I will certainly be forced to get it weather tight just to protect the new floor!
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Old 12-23-2013, 02:14 PM   #122
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Well, I just read the instructions on the West System Epoxy.....The OAT has to be at least 60f to apply the epoxy. It looks like I will be waiting for awhile. At least I live in GA now vs IL, so I won't have to wait until April.
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Old 12-23-2013, 06:26 PM   #123
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Craig, we applied the West in winter when the temps were a bit dicey. We moved the wood into the garage and applied it there. It took a little longer for the West to cure, but it turned out okay.

Five plus inched of rain at our house yesterday. Been one of those years, eh?

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Old 12-23-2013, 07:06 PM   #124
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My rain gage started leaking at about two inches. I have no idea how much we really got. Thank you for the idea of using the garage. I may do it that way in a couple of sections.
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Old 12-24-2013, 09:14 AM   #125
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patience...warm days always surprise us in January.
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Old 12-25-2013, 06:54 AM   #126
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Yes as Alan says, be prepared for any moment....January thaw and work schedule. If the stars align, you are in!
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Old 12-25-2013, 04:08 PM   #127
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I'll probably get so excited I end up epoxying myself to the floor
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Old 12-25-2013, 08:59 PM   #128
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I'll probably get so excited I end up epoxying myself to the floor
Every time I've done a backyard car paint job, we end up witha mosquito or two. We call them our Trans Am logos...

I've also placed the floor panels on saw horses and done a few sides at a time in the garage. One big tip...sand off the drips that form on the edges after it dries. They don't allow the sections to lay flat if any part of them are left over. Oh yeah, the panels will be bigger once the 'poxy dries. The floor can be almost 1/4" longer if you ain't careful.
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Old 12-26-2013, 01:33 PM   #129
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I didn't factor in expansion. Thanks.
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Old 01-23-2014, 06:28 AM   #130
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Well, between slightly warmer temperatures and a switch to a more cold tolerant hardening agent, I was able to apply the West System epoxy to the new floor.

Next up is to seal around the wheel well housing, and cut the 2024 for the bumper storage lid to attach to. The 2024 front spare tire storage has been cut along with the one above the steps compartment.

40 years from now, this floor should be in a lot better shape than the rotten floor I removed.
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Old 01-23-2014, 07:46 AM   #131
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Thats awesume work
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Old 01-23-2014, 10:40 AM   #132
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You are making great progress!!! Looking so good!!!
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:21 PM   #133
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Used some Eternabond sealant tape to seal the top inside edge of the wheel well covers to the frame, and sprayed a coating of Spar Urethane on the stainless steel hold down plate. I switched from steel to stainless to decrease the galvanic reaction potential where it contacts the aluminum shell. While not thick, it is just a bit more in the way of protection for the rear end of the trailer. I think I will use the Eternabond as a secondary moisture barrier around the plywood floor at the rear of the trailer as well just before I lower the shell back on.
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Old 01-24-2014, 05:30 AM   #134
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I'd like to be an archeologist a few thousand years from now digging up the Overlander and admiring your work.

Sent from my VS840 4G using Airstream Forums mobile app
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:20 PM   #135
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Today was the day of reckoning. My son had a friend over since school has been canceled due to snow and ice on secondary roads, and I took advantage of their youthful strength. The front matched up just perfect with new rivets now bucked into place, the back was a different story. I appears that the frame developed a "sag" either while sitting without the shell attached, or over the years due to some separation. I think it was while sitting without the shell. At the moment, I have jack stands under the back and pressure on the tongue causing pressure to lift the rear frame. I will leave it that way for a few days while I do some work to pay for all of this. When I have some time next week, I intend to align the floor and bolt it to the frame. I should then be able to release the tension and have everything in its proper place.....I hope....Otherwise this is going to be a huge mess.

Please note the lack of hoists on the gantries.
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Old 01-31-2014, 04:30 PM   #136
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Wow! Really cool, Craig!!!
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Old 01-31-2014, 05:40 PM   #137
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Quote:
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Today was the day of reckoning. My son had a friend over since school has been canceled due to snow and ice on secondary roads, and I took advantage of their youthful strength. The front matched up just perfect with new rivets now bucked into place, the back was a different story. I appears that the frame developed a "sag" either while sitting without the shell attached, or over the years due to some separation. I think it was while sitting without the shell. At the moment, I have jack stands under the back and pressure on the tongue causing pressure to lift the rear frame. I will leave it that way for a few days while I do some work to pay for all of this. When I have some time next week, I intend to align the floor and bolt it to the frame. I should then be able to release the tension and have everything in its proper place.....I hope....Otherwise this is going to be a huge mess.

Please note the lack of hoists on the gantries.
I've done a few of these and the rear has never lined up without having to give it a lift. Just jack the rear bumper until the holes line up good enough to cleco then rivet away.

Impressive progress.
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:42 PM   #138
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Finally a bit of progress I can share. The new floor is installed with the shell bolted over it to the frame.

To recap, the frame has now been sand blasted, bad parts welded/replaced, POR 15 applied with a new 3/4" Marine plywood floor which was sealed on all sides with West System epoxy. All bolt holes were resealed after drilling and it is solidly bolted together. There are grade 8 bolts in all the C channel to outrigger holes, and the elevator bolts have been bent over to keep the nuts from backing out. Where the C channel attaches to the floor and there isn't an outrigger, and elevator bolt was used with a 1 1/2" fender washer on the underside. Originally, there were a lot of screws in the C channel going into the plywood. Only bolts were used in the refurbishment.
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:44 PM   #139
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Now, I have to figure out the various tanks. I believe I can get the water tank clean and so will reuse it. The black needs to be replaced, and I would like to add a large grey tank. I am thinking about two grey tanks in-between adjacent stringers with a pipe connecting them going through the web in the stringer. Has anyone done something like this? How do you then plumb the grey and black dump valves and associated pipes?
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Old 03-23-2014, 06:50 PM   #140
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Fabulous. Thanks for the update.
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