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Old 10-22-2013, 04:46 PM   #81
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1997 34' Limited
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One of the wing windows was still a dual pane window. The other is the newer single pane. Somehow moisture fogged the space between the panes. I very carefully attempted to drill relief holes in the inner pane. You can easily see the wonderful results.
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Old 10-22-2013, 04:48 PM   #82
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Photo of the lovely, understanding, and wonderful wife whose expensive window I just shattered! Thank you for not getting upset.
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Old 10-23-2013, 11:49 AM   #83
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stinks about the window. Maybe lexan will work?
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Old 10-23-2013, 05:09 PM   #84
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stinks about the window. Maybe lexan will work?
Had a similar issue with the same window on the other side. Broke it while trying to take it apart to clean all the green gook outta there. Lexan worked just fine. Been there for several years and still in good shape.

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Old 10-24-2013, 06:04 AM   #85
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The glass outer pane is still good. I think I will caulk the channel between where the inner was and the outer is.
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:38 PM   #86
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flooring out, and bolts removed. I also found one of the previous residents, from days gone by. At some point a previous owner had the back end apart. They plumbed the grey into the black tank, and welded some strengtheners into the backend. I am trying to decide if I will need to remove them or just strengthen the previous attempt to strengthen....
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Old 10-24-2013, 05:43 PM   #87
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I wonder if Leo Hockmen worked at the factory, or possibly was the guy who redid the backend of the trailer? His name is written on a plastic bowl that attached to the bottom of the floor and allowed the "P" trap for the shower to fit.

The last name could be Hackner, Hockner, Hackman, or Hockmen.
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Old 10-24-2013, 06:16 PM   #88
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Another Leo sighting. I think that's the name that keeps showing up in Airstreams down thru the years. I think there's a thread somewhere about that guy. If not, maybe we should start one.

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Old 10-29-2013, 09:58 PM   #89
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Silly question here- I am planning on lifting my shell in a little over a week. I notice that you left the C channel bolted to the skins yet in some other threads (im trying to research as much as I can) it looks like the channel was left on the floor. Is this all personal preference or is one way better than the other (depending on trailer condition)? Thanks for a great thread....!
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Old 10-30-2013, 06:26 AM   #90
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The "C" channel on the 1970 is oriented as a "U". For this reason it was easier for me to remove the screws and bolts holding it to the wooden flooring, than to drill out all of the rivets in the lower skin. In later years, the "C" is really a C with the flooring fitting into the opening, or it has been described as an upside down "F" as well.

I think it depends on what you have as to the easiest way to separate the shell.

In our case, once the new floor is attached to the frame, the shell can be lowered back down, and the "U" screwed and bolted again.
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Old 10-30-2013, 10:32 AM   #91
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I fell into the trap of of using generic terminology; I should have said "U" instead of "C" because indeed it is the former I have of my 76. I just removed the wrap all the way around and I'm pleasantly surprised. I think cutting the bolts indeed will be the best.....thanks!
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Old 10-31-2013, 04:17 PM   #92
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Sandblasting finished, a few farme repairs, and it will be time for POR15. I cut away the large heavy steel tray under the aft section of the frame. It supported the black water tank as well as reinforced the rear end. It was badly rusted, and we will have another one fabricated to replace it. It may be possible to go with a thinner gauge of steel in order to save some weight.
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Old 11-06-2013, 06:40 PM   #93
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Even an old rusty frame can look good with a couple of coats of POR15 and a nice black topcoat!
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Old 11-06-2013, 07:52 PM   #94
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Wow! Looking good, Craig!
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Old 11-13-2013, 03:10 PM   #95
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Out with the rotten steel and in with the new. All the new bits to add have been cut to length and the old parts needing to cut out have been. Now the trailer is just awaiting Rob (Skaterio) and his welding equipment. He will be here tomorrow morning to weld it all in. The next step is cutting the six sheets of marine grade 3/4" plywood to size for the new floor and coating it all with West System epoxy for installation!
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Old 11-13-2013, 05:44 PM   #96
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... the new floor and coating it all with West System epoxy for installation!
You are gonna love a sealed floor. I used RAKA epoxy on the last few I've done, IMHO just as good and a bit cheaper.
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Old 11-14-2013, 06:20 AM   #97
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Rob is the man ...sounds like a good plan
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Old 11-14-2013, 07:55 PM   #98
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Rob (Skaterio's husband) came over today and welded on the new parts on. The frame is much more solid and he did a great job!

New outrigger at step, reinforcement in rear, new safety chains, and several other bits.
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Old 11-14-2013, 09:16 PM   #99
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Nice job! Love watching the progress, welding is one of those skills that I really want to try my hand at.....just need some free time .

One tip with the west system, coat the wood when temperatures are dropping. Or you can prewarm the wood floor with heaters, this is to prevent bubbles from appearing when it's curing.
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Old 11-15-2013, 10:37 AM   #100
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Looks great, should be very solid. Pizzachop taught me to weld on my 78 Sovereign, definitely a handy skill to have
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