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Old 04-09-2022, 04:54 PM   #1
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1971 27' Overlander
New Glarus , Wisconsin
Join Date: Aug 2021
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And so it begins...

Alright, we purchased the Streaming Eagle this past summer. She's a 27' 1971 Overlander. The frame and axles were completely redone and brand new. With all the demo already completed, it was a blank slate and I'm sure missing some critical pieces. We spent the whole fall and winter doing some research and making some decisions. We were able to get started on the windows and finished redoing the seals and gaskets. I have already ordered new tanks to include adding two gray water tanks. Here's a few pictures to get us started and hopefully with the help of many on here, keep us going.
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Old 04-09-2022, 05:14 PM   #2
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1966 22' Safari
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Welcome to the vintage Airstream world. The Overlander is a perfect size. Have fun with the project and start a renovation thread.
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Old 04-09-2022, 05:38 PM   #3
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2009 25' FB International
2018 27' Globetrotter
Hanover , Pennsylvania
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Welcome to the forum!

That is a lot of work but I'm sure it will be/is rewarding. And it is great that you are able to restore this vintage trailer.

Please continue to post pictures of the progress.

Do you know the history?
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Old 04-09-2022, 06:43 PM   #4
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1971 27' Overlander
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Unfortunately we do not know the history, other than it was registered in TX before.
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Old 04-10-2022, 01:19 PM   #5
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Congrats !
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Old 04-10-2022, 03:20 PM   #6
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2021 28' Flying Cloud
Hudson , Ohio
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Great name! Must be a Harley guy. That looks like a diamond in the rough already getting some polish. Good luck with the project. Share progress and pix please.
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Old 04-10-2022, 07:13 PM   #7
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1971 27' Overlander
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Thanks all. Unfortunately no Harley here, but my dad loves his pipes.
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Old 04-10-2022, 07:23 PM   #8
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1986 34' Limited
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Conifer , Colorado
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Thanks for starting a project thread. I'm all in. It will be fun to see your adventures with this old Overlander. My project thread is with the 1975 Overlanders.

David
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Old 04-11-2022, 06:22 AM   #9
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Looks like you are off to a great start with frame and new axles.
Congrats and good luck on your project.
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Old 07-09-2022, 06:58 AM   #10
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1971 27' Overlander
New Glarus , Wisconsin
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Initial thoughts before construction.

Alright, I had to take some time off for work, but I'm slowly acquiring parts and digging deep in the threads on what comes next. A few questions for the local experts on here:

1. Current axles have a rating of 2800 lbs each. I am thinking of upping it to 3500 lbs as a bit of insurance. Do it now or wait til so I can make more progress elsewhere?
2. Subfloor. 5/8 plywood ACX grade. West system epoxy on all the edges to about 8 inches in on top and bottom. Leave the rest uncovered for breathing.
3. Adding 2 gray tanks, one over front axle, and one in the bay behind rear axle. Connecting with PVC pipes routing curbside around the black tank to then join the black tank discharge at the rear street side. Ideas on supporting the gray tanks?
4. Planning on putting just Reflectix on the underside of the plywood for our insulation. Do I need to leave a gap or how do I secure it in the bay?
5. Looking to duct heat to the tank bays for cold(er) weather camping. I see they dont make a Suburban NT30SP any more. Any suggestions on a comparable solution without needing new holes for the discharge?
6. Hoping to do solar with lithium batteries located under the front bench. Also, thinking of a spare tire underneath same general area. Too much weight, too far forward?
7 There is some corrosion in multiple spots between two exterior panels on the inside. I think it is aluminum corrosion. I have read elsewhere that this might be an indication of an electrical issue. How/Can I remove the corrosion or are those panels now unusable? Ill post some pics to show.

If youre still with me, thanks for taking the time to read and offer some assistance. I have done a lot of reading and am starting to get to the analysis paralysis phase. Any help/opinions are appreciated.
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Old 07-09-2022, 01:49 PM   #11
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I'm restoring a 71 Globetrotter, my restoration thread is titled 71 Globetrotter Full Monte. I'm still at it after many years.

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Old 07-09-2022, 07:46 PM   #12
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Hello Mr. Eagle: I will try to comment on your questions. But I hope others will confirm or correct my answers. It takes a village as they say.

1. Current axles have a rating of 2800 lbs each. I am thinking of upping it to 3500 lbs as a bit of insurance. Do it now or wait til so I can make more progress elsewhere?

We put 3200 pound rated axles under my Overlander. They also had high profile mounting brackets and 32 degree start angle. These items give me about 4" of additional ground clearance, nice for Colorado. I might add that Dexter axles have 10" drums unless you order a 3600# rated axle. We find the 10" drums are adequate for my Overlander.


2. Subfloor. 5/8 plywood ACX grade. West system epoxy on all the edges to about 8 inches in on top and bottom. Leave the rest uncovered for breathing.

I applied polyurethane to the entire plywood subfloor just for a little extra water protection.

3. Adding 2 gray tanks, one over front axle, and one in the bay behind rear axle. Connecting with PVC pipes routing curbside around the black tank to then join the black tank discharge at the rear street side. Ideas on supporting the gray tanks?

My tanks are "T" shaped tanks giving a shoulder to hang the tank with angle irons bolted to the frame rails. Airstream fabricates an insulated tank pan that is bolted to the cross members and this supports the weight of the full tank. Your fresh water tank is likely supported like this. Short drains are better. Modern Airstreams drain below the frame rails. Here is a photo of what I did on the 66 Trade Wind, and a photo of our 86 Limited.

4. Planning on putting just Reflectix on the underside of the plywood for our “insulation”. Do I need to leave a gap or how do I secure it in the bay?

I purchased rigid foam for the under floor insulation. I don't think Reflectix provides enough insulation, especially in the cooler Wisconsin parks.

5. Looking to duct heat to the tank bays for cold(er) weather camping. I see they don’t make a Suburban NT30SP any more. Any suggestions on a comparable solution without needing new holes for the discharge?

Airstream insulated and heated the tank storage compartments. I don't have experience with modern RV furnaces, but I bet you will find a solution.

6. Hoping to do solar with lithium batteries located under the front bench. Also, thinking of a spare tire underneath same general area. Too much weight, too far forward?

Airstream used to mount a spare tire under the front of the trailer. They had a rack that would pivot down exposing the spare. I moved my battery from the rear of the 75 Overlander to under the couch. Solar and lithium is a big expense, but likely worth it if you plan on doing a lot of dry camping. Airstream moved the batteries to the front of the trailer in 1977.


7 There is some corrosion in multiple spots between two exterior panels on the inside. I think it is aluminum corrosion. I have read elsewhere that this might be an indication of an electrical issue. How/Can I remove the corrosion or are those panels now unusable? I’ll post some pics to show.

I don't have the answer to this question. But I bet someone will. I have seen corrosion worse than your photos.

David
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Old 07-10-2022, 05:35 AM   #13
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1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
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All of your questions are good ones. We all asked the same ones when planning our restorations. All with multiple good answers. You will just have to sort through and figure out what works for you.

So here's my take:
  1. Current axles - Order your axles from Colin Hyde and he will help you decide. For my 28' Ambassador, I went with his suggestions of 3500# with 32 degree down angle.
  2. Subfloor - I've done the coated plywood, but I wouldn't again. Advantech composite subfloor is less work and almost impervious to water. See my Ambassador blog.
  3. Gray tanks - I'll defer to David on this as I always have put the tanks above the floor. No need for heat and easier to plumb. It does take up a bunch of floor space however.
  4. Insulation - I agree with David on this too, I would put more. I fixed solid panel insulation on both restorations.
  5. Ducted heat - Haven't done it. On the Safari I used the original furnace and using a mini-split in my current restoration so no help on furnaces.
  6. Solar with lithium - I just added a long post in my Ambassador blog. I did do a CG calculation since everything is changing.
  7. Corrosion - Doesn't look to bad. I just cleaned it off with a wire brush and coated everything with a good primer.

I also agree with Aerowood, there are a lot of really good restoration blogs in this forum. His and David's being especially good. It is worth spending the time going through them. I know it helped me tremendously. Have fun - Mark
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Old 07-11-2022, 11:17 AM   #14
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1971 27' Overlander
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More research.

Thanks Aerowood. I have referenced your thread many times and find it helpful in many areas. Sometimes you guys speak right over my head though. WIth one kid entering high school this year, Im hoping we can get a good jump on this and not make ours a many years project. By the way, thanks for the work you do on those four fans of freedom, we appreciate it.

David, thanks for the replies. You got me thinking and doing more research that Ill address below.

Wow Mark! I am definitely in over my head when it comes to electrical and trying to do solar. I have bookmarked your blog post for future reference. Are you talking about the Advantech OSB? If so, I didnt know if it would be much better than the ACX with epoxy. It also looks like wed need another layer of subfloor before laying vinyl planks? And no additional protection on the cut edges either? Thanks for the insight on the panels as well.

On Friday Im going to talk to a local trailer service center and ask about my options for a different axle. I have a friend doing a 65 Overlander and got his dexter axles at a reasonable rate. If he can, Im going to have him weld on a 2.5 vertical piece of steel on the frame around the wheel cutout to attach some new galvanized 16 gauge wheel wells (hoping he can make those too). And while hes at it, I dont have a black tank holding box either. Hoping he can help me out there as well.

As for the gray tanks, I have the 5 tanks from VTS. I think I can mount some angle iron and straps to keep them inside the frame depth.

As for the insulation, the Prodex seems like a good alternative to multiple layers. Im thinking 3 strips of foam board glued to subfloor in order to leave a gap and attach the Prodex to it. Probably do the same to insulate the walls?

I really like the idea of having the spare tire underneath up front and am probably going to push forward with the idea found in post 16 of this thread. So I might see if my welder can add the holding bracket for it as well.

https://www.airforums.com/forums/f47...ier-50004.html

Thanks again for taking the time to read and advise.

Sid
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Old 07-12-2022, 05:39 AM   #15
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1956 22' Safari
1962 28' Ambassador
Williston , Vermont
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I don't like to use Advantech and OSB in the same sentence. It only looks like OSB.

On my first restoration, I ended up adding 1/4" underlayment over the sealed plywood to smooth over the joints prior to the Marmoleum. The Advantech is lying very flat. Not sure I will need underlayment. Only downside I have seen is it is heavier. It is a lot less work than all the sealing and there is no need to seal the edges. I submerged a chunk for a month with no change. - Mark
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Old 08-24-2022, 06:11 AM   #16
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1971 27' Overlander
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Ready to roll

Its been a bit, but I have been acquiring parts while traveling for work. I'm hoping/planning on getting quite a bit done in the next couple of weeks with my dad coming to town. I went with the Advantech subfloor, thank you for your suggestion Mark, but they only had it in 23/32". So I figure I can router the edges to get it to fit in the 5/8" C channel. I purchased Prodex for insulating the subfloor and the walls. I'm hoping R-22 is enough for WI shoulder seasons. The frame is currently at the welder to get a new front hold down bracket and black tank box added on. I still haven't found anyone who can make new C channel for the rear. I'll be looking in to the Harbor Freight shrinker/stretcher. A couple of questions I can't seem to find pictures of.

Was there a rear hold down bracket on these trailers? I see it is referenced with other years.
Besides the wiring for the brakes, does any wiring need to go through the frame? Such as shore power to transfer switch? All tail/turn signal lights I was planning on running in the walls.

As soon as we make a some actual progress, I'll get some photos posted. Thanks for the help

-Sid
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Old 08-24-2022, 07:49 PM   #17
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The rear body hold down bracket is typically under the straight section of the rear c channel and goes up to the rear cargo door lower edge. Here are a couple few photos of the "rear hold down bracket stack of parts" as I removed them in my Overlander. First is the rear frame cross membere, then the infamous decorative aluminum sheet from body to bumper storage, then the rear body mount (in this case steel), and them the plywood subfloor.

I elected to make my new rear body mount out of aluminum to reduce dis-similar metal corrosion.

And I elected to install it on top of the subfloor instead of beneath it. I still had good material for riveting it to the bottom of the body, and good strength for the body mounting bolts.

David
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Old 09-04-2022, 06:47 AM   #18
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1971 27' Overlander
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Rear hold down

Thanks David, those pictures are helpful to me. Great idea extending it over to the vertical ribs. Was that last picture youre final assembly? As in, you didnt then put a C-channel on top of the hold down plate? Im wondering about trying to use old F-Channel on the straight section just to add a little more protection for the subfloor, but with a plate like that maybe just a little flashing to cover the edge.

Also, the exterior skin mated the rear hold down plate looks like Swiss cheese. Any issue in cutting that small section off mid way up the rear hatch for replacement? I hate to replace the whole panel reaching up to the rear bath window.
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Old 09-04-2022, 07:33 PM   #19
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Well, certainly my modification of the rear hold down "plate" is not Airstream approved. But when you study the structure back there, we need to have a solid steel frame rear cross member under the subfloor. Then we need a solid subfloor. I used a piece of 3/4" oak for its strength. I couldn't think of a reason to put the rear hold down plate under my oak subfloor. I made my rear hold down plate so it would fit up snug under the rear cargo door frame. That cargo door frame has a lot of strength to it and will help hold the weight of the rear of the body. There are bolts that penetrate the rear hold down plate through the subfloor, through the rear frame cross member and through the frame rails. I used a bolt about every nine inches from frame rail to frame rail with washers and lock nuts. The bolts tie everything together tight.

The rear c-channel does what? It provides a place to rivet the exterior and the interior skins and then bolts with washers at every outrigger. The rear cargo storage area is not very visible, and since I have a rear bath layout, the rear cargo area is hidden from the inside. So I omitted the interior skin below the cargo door.

If your rear exterior skin below the cargo door is "swish cheese", then you may need to remove it and replace it with a solid patch. You don't want rain water leaking in back there. I did not reinstall the "decorative aluminum sheet" between the bumper storage door and the body. I left it open and put some flashing below the body skin so rain water would not touch my subfloor. I used expanded metal for the floor of the rear bumper storage compartment so rain water will just drip to the ground.

Just trying to share some of my experience with you so you can invent even a better solution.

David
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Old 10-06-2022, 06:22 AM   #20
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It's been a busy month here as I had a little vacation time and my father was able to come help with some projects. Hopefully I didn't move too fast and forget critical steps. Here are a few photos of the progress thus far. The first photo is of our spare tire holder. I think it was a little overkill, but that's a risk of having a welder do it vice myself. That being said, I think he did an awesome job on it. Second picture is just a general layout of our tanks. The third is our Advantech subfloor with West 2 part epoxy around the edges. We ended up doing an outside oil based paint on the topside as well. The fourth picture is our tank routing in the rear. Living in Wisconsin, I might have done done a little overkill on warming the tanks as I routed 2" dryer vent hose to each tank cavity and put a pad heater on the bottom. In theory, the furnace heat would keep the temp too warm to have the sensor turn on the heat pads.

I was also able to install the Seelevel II sensors and test them out with success before spraying over them with a 3M Rubber adhesive they recommended. With all that complete, my dad was able to sneak back up for a couple days and we finished off the rest of the plumbing before securing the subfloor and getting the shell back on. The last one is helping grandpa cleo on the C-channel before we lower the shell over the subfloor. We still have to get the rear attached, but hopefully we'll be able to cover it up with a tarp before winter and can work on the inside.
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